YoungYenom

davis.338lapua

Hold you're brim while you steam it in plate, don't be a flat brimmer.This one is in PETG

Hat beak shaper

hats

uni3Dworld

High density model of Roots flower potCreated in Blender Format STL and OBJ 15% infill2 perimetersNo supports

Roots Flower Pot

Planter

Mici

Based on DUMMY 13 Beta - Oct. 2023 <figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td><a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/593185-dummy-13-printable-jointed-figure-beta-files" rel="nofollow noopener">DUMMY 13 Printable Jointed Figure </a>© 2023 by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.lucky13toys.com/" rel="nofollow noopener">Lucky 13 Toys </a>is licensed under <a target="_blank" href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/?ref=chooser-v1" rel="nofollow noopener">CC BY 4.0</a></td></tr></tbody></table></figure><ul><li>Used the head to design a mask</li><li>Used the hand to design a new one</li></ul><h2>Description</h2>DUMMY 13 loves COMIC CON!&nbsp;So I have started to design a whole series of characters and costumes for DUMMY 13. This is another costume from the series &#34;DUMMY13 goes to COMIC CON&#34;.&nbsp;The aim is to preserve the charm and simplicity of Dummy 13.&nbsp;Content of Spider-DUMM, sorry Spider-Man:<ul><li>Mask for a white head</li><li>Armor with logo</li><li>Other parts are standard parts that are just printed in different colors (see pictures)</li><li>Spider-Man shooting hands</li></ul>Logo:You get the best results for the logo with a 0.25 mm nozzle and lowest layer height. The logo is glued on and the hole in the armor helps with positioning.When gluing, make sure NOT to use any glue that attacks the material and leaves an ugly white stain.Personally, I got the model right on the first attempt. With a little skill and patience, you will also succeed.&nbsp;MASK:<figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td>Use brim.Slide the head into the mask and press it in with gentle force on the chin.<ul><li>Check the inside to see if it has been printed cleanly and remove any filament debris that is sticking out</li><li>Has the brim been removed cleanly?</li><li>The elephant foot can cause the inner rim to be a little too narrow, just sand the inner rim down a little or work it with a knife</li></ul></td><td style="width: 25%"><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000175548/design/2024-05-20_5cbbd71f1fe05.webp"></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

DUMMY 13 goes to COMIC CON - Spider-Man 

action figure

BeeTee 3D

This is an LED lamp of Winnie the Pooh&#39;s lovable, cuddly, manically depressed, possibly suicidal donkey friend Eeyore.&nbsp;&nbsp;Eeyore really needs to see a therapist.&nbsp;&nbsp;Two back plates are included: one with a hole for hanging on a wall, and one without for placing on a flat surface. This lamp uses more than four colors, so you will need two AMS&#39;s for the full effect.&nbsp;&nbsp;How do I make this thing?!Easy!  Just follow these general steps, and you&#39;ll be lighting up your life in no time.  Pay attention, as there will be a quiz later.&nbsp;<ol><li>Download the model to your computer or open it in the Handy app.  I suggest downloading it and opening it so you can remove the purge line (Google is your friend here).  I also strongly suggest using the included profile, as it contains many little tweaks to prevent problems that are common with these types of lamps (gaps, wisps, separation, etc.)</li><li>Confirm whether you have enough AMS&#39;s to handle all of the colors.  I do my best to keep my lamps to 4 colors or less, but sometimes that&#39;s just not possible, and a second AMS will be needed.  Alternatively, you can build in pauses and conduct manual filament swaps, but you&#39;ll need to research how to do that on your own, because I&#39;m not good at that.</li><li>Ensure your filament colors are in the correct AMS slots that corresponds to the model.  Hint: I generally arrange my colors in alphabetical order, because I&#39;m weird like that.  Just be cautious of wildcards like &#34;light blue&#34;.</li><li>All of my models come with two different back plates.  One will have a hole for those of you that want to hang the lamp on a wall.  The other will not have a hole, and that&#39;s intended for those of you who will be placing the lamp on a desk or a table or a cat.  You do NOT need to print both back plates (or do, I don&#39;t care, I&#39;m not your mother).  Pick whichever one you want.  Some lamps will also come with a base.  This is to keep your lamp from tipping over like a drunk toddler if you&#39;re placing it on a flat surface.  If you&#39;re hanging it on a wall, you don&#39;t need the base.</li><li>I strongly recommend using a textured PEI plate, as that will do an excellent job in hiding the print lines, and that&#39;s what these prints are tweaked for.  But you can use whatever fancy plate you want -- again, I&#39;m not your mom.  </li><li>Once you&#39;ve got your AMS set up and are ready to go, hit that big ol&#39; PRINT button for the lamp face and then your back plate. I suggest disabling Flow Calibration.</li><li>Go make a sandwich.</li><li>You should now have the lamp face and your back plate of choice, and it&#39;s assembly time!</li><li>This first step is optional, but I would suggest picking up aluminum (or aluminium for some reason if you&#39;re British) foil tape.  Yes, it comes in tape form!  Line the inner side of the back plate with the sticky stuff, as it will help tremendously in making your light brighter and with a more even and consistent light.  I personally tear off small strips, apply, and then flatten/smooth it out with the edge of a credit card, and repeat until the entire side is shiny silver.</li><li>Next you&#39;re going to want to buy yourself some LEDs.  The options here are many and varied, and I can&#39;t decide for you (see mom comment above).  Decide what types of light you want.  Do you want basic white light?  Great!  Do you want cool white or warm white?  Do you want it to flash or dance to the music?  Do you want a switch?  Do you want a remote?  Do you want it to be USB or higher voltage?  Have you changed your mind and want it to be multi-colored or able to change color to the seasons or your mood?<ol><li>What I can do is make some suggestions.  First, there are several kinds of LEDs that are typically used in these types of lamps.  The first is a basic LED strip, which is a roll of circuit board tape with a sticky back-end.  These are the simplest and easiest to use.  Next is what&#39;s called a COB strip, which is basically the same, but instead of an LED every inch, it has a solid band of light.  Then there&#39;s neon COBs, which are self-explanatory.  There&#39;s also LED dome bulbs, which you would apply directly to the backplate, but would require soldering.</li><li>Whatever you choose, you want to look for the following:  - A way to power the thing.  USB, DC, solar panels, steam engine -- doesn&#39;t matter, just as long as you can turn it on and off.  - A way to trim the length.  Most LED strips have areas on them that are safe to cut with scissors as long as you cut precisely along the indicated area.  Once you make that cut, the part of the LED strip that&#39;s still connected to the power will function, but the remainder will no longer function (there are ways to repower them, but generally require soldering and/or special clips and new controllers.  Google is still your buddy here).  <ol><li>A way to secure the strip to the inside of the lamp.  Most LED strips come with an adhesive side, but not all -- make sure you know what you&#39;re buying.  In a pinch, hot glue will do the trick. </li><li>An LED strip length of 1m is usually sufficient, but some lamps do exceed that length.</li><li>Test EVERY strip before you apply it.</li></ol></li></ol></li><li>All of my lamps come with a hole in the side of the case that&#39;s just big enough for threading through the LED strip (if you don&#39;t want the hole, you can cover it with a small piece of electrical tape).  Thread the USB cable (or whatever power source you chose) from the inside through to the outside so the connecter is dangling just outside the lamp.  Then peel off the sticky backing of the LED strip, and start applying it to the inner wall perimeter of the lamp, maintaining steady pressure to ensure good adhesion.  Try to keep it as straight as possible.  Use a credit card or other narrow instrument to help get it into any nooks and crannies the lamp has.  Continue along the entire inner perimeter until you come back around to the outlet hole, and then make your cut.  Plug in the power to ensure the light still works.<ol><li>This is optional, but I suggest putting a dab of hot glue every inch or so to secure the strip extra tightly to the inside of the case.</li></ol></li><li>Now you&#39;re ready to close the lamp up.  Take the back plate you printed earlier and line it up with the front plate.  All of my back plates have a lip to help secure it, and it is a tight friction fit.  This helps keep the two halves together without needing to glue them, which allows you to open it back up in case you need to fix the LEDs.  Once it&#39;s lined up, squeeze the two halves together, ONLY PUTTING PRESSURE ON THE OUTER EDGES.  If you squeeze the lamp directly on the thin face or back plate, you&#39;ll put your whole hand through it like a gorilla.  <ol><li>Here&#39;s the method I use:  I place the edge of the box between the balls of my thumbs, lock the rest of my fingers together above it, and then squeeze.  As long as you&#39;re only squeezing on the EDGE, it can take a surprising amount of force.  I repeat this around the entire edge of the lamp until I have a tight fit.  Occasionally, for any tricky areas, a little sanding/trimming/clipping of the lip can be helpful.</li></ol></li><li>Lucky number 13, and you&#39;re done! </li></ol>&nbsp;Quiz time (did you think that was a joke?)  1. What&#39;s the suggested way of opening the lamp file?  2. What do you need to ensure is in the right order before printing?  3. I&#39;m not your _______?  4. Which back plate should you use for which scenario?  5. What is the recommended plate you should use for lamps?  6. What kind of sandwich did you make?  7. What type of LEDs did you decide on, and what should you do before applying it? 8. What should you NEVER apply pressure to or squeeze when joining the lamp halves together? 9. Did you have fun? &nbsp;Feel free to join me on Patreon @ BeeTee 3D for more, including exclusive lamps!  &nbsp;

Eeyore LED Lamp

lights

Thorsus

This is an adapter for the Bambu Lamp Kit 001.I purchased the lamp kit and found a lamp file I wanted to print after I printed the moon lamp I realized that there wasn't an adapter to make the light fit the bottom of the moon, so I made one.&nbsp;Printed on the Bambu X1 Carbon with bambu PLA BasicLayer height 0.2mmInfill 15%Supports Yes(I like tree supports)&nbsp;The posts on the bottom piece are friction fit I've noticed that if the first time you put it together it might slide off just turn the bottom to the next post and it seems like a snugger fit&nbsp;Lithophane Moon Lamphttps://www.printables.com/model/23859-designer-lithophane-moon-lamp

Lamp Adapter for Bambu Lamp Kit

lithophane

braga3dprint

Elevate your Xiaomi Electric Scooter Mi 3's style and protect its deck from scratches with this 3D-printed accessory. It's designed for easy printing in PLA material and requires no supports, making it hassle-free to share and use.Key Features:<ul><li>Aesthetic Enhancement: Give your scooter a unique look that stands out.</li><li>Scratch Protection: Keep your scooter's deck looking new by preventing scratches.</li><li>Easy 3D Printing: Print it effortlessly without the need for complex tools.</li><li>Durable Material: PLA works well, but consider PETG for outdoor use.</li><li>Customization: Paint it post-printing or use color changes during printing.</li></ul>Upgrade your Xiaomi Electric Scooter Mi 3 with this 3D-printed accessory, and ride in style while keeping your deck protected. Share it with the community to spread the love!

Xiaomi Electric Scooter Deck Accessory

scooter 

blecheimer

This is a toy plane that is based on the famous Boeing Stearman Model 75 biplane. <a target="_blank" href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boeing-Stearman_Model_75" rel="nofollow noopener">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boeing-Stearman_Model_75</a> The toy plane has a wingspan of 240mm and a length of 196mm. It can be completely assembled without using glue. All necessary clips and bolts are printed. I even included a small screwdriver.&nbsp;Use the following settings for the wings: 0,12 layer height, 4 walls, 4 bottoms, 8 tops, 16% gyroid infill The rest can be printed with 0,2 layers, 4 walls, 4 bottoms, 5 tops, 6% gyroid infill. I recommend a brim only for the bolts. See my 3mf for more details and how I positioned the parts on the build plates.&nbsp;Print the following parts with support:<ul><li>Fuselage (only for the cockpit)</li><li>Wings (only for th bottom of the threads)</li><li>Engine (not for the thread)</li><li>Bolts (only for the head)</li><li>Struts (use small tree support)</li><li>Supports (use small tree support)</li><li>Cockpit (only for the bottom of the thread)</li></ul>Do not use support on the threads.&nbsp;All parts will fit into a 200x200x200 build space.  A1 mini users need to split the wings into two parts (can be done with Bambu Studio) and glue them together after printing.&nbsp;For assembly follow these steps:<ul><li>put the front cover on the engine</li><li>screw the engine to the fuselage</li><li>insert the cockpit into the fuselage and secure it with a short bolt</li><li>insert the lower wing into the fuselage and secure it with a short bolt</li><li>insert the rear wing into the fuselage and secure it with a short bolt</li><li>this is now a bit tricky: insert the middle supports into the fuselage and put the top wing on the supports</li><li>now put one strut between the lower and top wing</li><li>insert a long bolt through the lower wing into the strut and screw it to the top wing</li><li>repeat for the other side</li><li>clip the propeller and the wheels with the pins to the plane</li><li>make funny engine noises and play with your new plane  </li></ul>Update 2023-12-11:Thanks to sgioja and CatWhisker I was able to correct two design flaws (cockpit + wings) and re-oriented the wing support in the print profile. The STLs and the print profile have been updated accordingly.&nbsp;Update 2024-02-17: User doppelt-05 made a very creative add-on to this model. He added a pinwheel propeller so that the propeller spins when the wind is blowing. You can find his model here on makerworld: <a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/190364#profileId-210130" rel="nofollow"> https://makerworld.com/en/models/190364#profileId-210130</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;Disclaimer: This work by blecheimer is licensed under <a target="_blank" href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/" rel="nofollow noopener">CC-BY-NC-ND 4.0</a>. You are not allowed to copy this model to other 3D printing websites without my permission.

Boeing Stearman 75 Toy Plane

TreeNB(亨利方)

Update Dec.10 2023 1. Add “spool holder Max” version, more biger size spool fit in. 2. Modify the length to make two version fit in A1 mini printer.Please note that the “lite” version is recomended if you don`t have special bigger size spool. The “Max” version may not easy to be print.The rollers may partially stick with ring together, it may need you loose them by knife.&nbsp;&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/253574/2023-12-10_af125627e1908.png">&nbsp;Original---------------------------------------------------------This is a simple spool holder. it is integrated printing design and no need any screw or bears and any metal components. just fold sides and press them down as shown in GIF.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/253574/2023-12-03_e8ppooo3c78s.gif">Hope you enjoy it! and please let me know, if you have any idea to optimize this design.