Wegerich 3D-Druck

AU3D

I became captivated by the tealight design crafted by voidbubble (all credtis for the tealight/lamp shade design go to him), which inspired me to craft a matching tealight holder base—this design will be made available in a separate upload. My journey continued as I played with various sizes, quickly realizing that the luminosity of the tiny LED tealights was a bottleneck, nudging me towards larger alternatives. After considering factors like cost-effectiveness, safety, widespread availability, and user-friendly assembly, the IKEA Fado emerged as the superior choice. Motivated by this, I designed an adapter to repurpose the 17cm Fado variant into a lamp shade base. This particular size is not only the most economical option (approximately 10€ in Germany) but also seamlessly integrates with the dimensions of this specific design.&nbsp;The adapter set is designed for versatility, consisting of three individual components:Part A: Inside adapter ring Part B: Outside base Part C: Outside decorative rim&nbsp;This project is available in multiple sizes:<ul><li>⌀20cm: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/my/models/69235/" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/de/my/models/69235/</a></li><li>⌀25cm: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/my/models/197336/" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/de/my/models/197336/</a></li></ul><h2>Print instructions</h2>Parts A and B are engineered for their utility and don't demand specialized print settings; this allows for prioritizing print speed. For these components, I selected Jayo white PLA Meta for its reliability. Conversely, Part C serves an aesthetic purpose as a decorative rim, prompting me to use Jayo Silk-PLA in a striking red copper hue, printed at a reduced speed to accentuate its finish. Its design is delicate, comprising mostly a single layer perimeter, which necessitated the addition of a supporting rim. Exercise caution during the removal of this rim, as the part is particularly prone to weak layer adhesion. For a safer detachment, initiate the peeling process from the side opposite the power cable entry and gradually progress towards it to minimize the risk of damage.&nbsp;The printed components are precision-engineered for a press-fit assembly, ensuring tight tolerances for a seamless and secure connection without the need for adhesives.<ol><li>Position part A on top the IKEA Fado Base, carefully aligning the recess—which serves as a removal notch for the adapter—with the designated power cable entry. Apply steady pressure to secure part A into place, referencing the accompanying image for guidance. <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/203468/2023-11-23_8e1ba0882aa07.jpg"> <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/203468/2023-11-23_ecd1be8d11d71.jpg"> </li><li>Guide the lamp's cord through part B, as illustrated in the image. Line up the part with the power cable entry and press it firmly into place until you hear or feel a click, indicating it has securely snapped in. <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/203468/2023-11-23_670020fc6dbad.jpg"> <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/203468/2023-11-23_d670920383469.jpg"> Ensure the bottom of the part is aligned to sit flush with the bottom of the lamp base, creating a smooth and even finish. It is crucial to verify that Part A and Part B are correctly connected as depicted in the accompanying photograph below: <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/203468/2023-11-23_10ee187f9bcf4.jpg"> </li><li>Guide the lamp's cord through part C, as illustrated in the image. Line up the part with the power cable entry and press it gently into place. Depending on the material used you might notice significantly less friction (for example when using Silk-PLA) compared to the other parts. If Part C sits too lose, you might have to use some glue. <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/203468/2023-11-23_333bf0c4ede8f.jpg"> <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/203468/2023-11-23_660829eda2ba9.jpg"> Part C is intentionally 2mm higher than the base so that it makes contact with the lamp shade: <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/203468/2023-11-23_f2b26475a8fc5.jpg"> </li><li>Position the lamp shade over the base, and carefully apply pressure to the inner rim of the shade until it clicks securely into position, engaging with the eight hooks of part A designed for this purpose. Avoid applying pressure directly to the lamp shade, as this can cause it to warp and sustain damage. If you encounter resistance when fitting it into place, gently combine a downward force with a subtle outward motion to ease the assembly. <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/203468/2023-11-23_39984e242e67e.jpg"> <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/203468/2023-11-23_f68356f0b5a9d.jpg"> </li><li>To complete the setup, install a light bulb. I recommend using this 2.5W bulb (https://amzn.to/3R69Tgh *). It is ideally suited for this model since the LED's orientation directs light outward, enhancing the lamp's illumination effect.: <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/203468/2023-11-23_696729e842441.jpg"></li></ol>&nbsp;*affiliate link

Lamp Pellucid Sweep 25cm (IKEA Fado Base, E14)

Vasen 

SabreDesign

Modern Wavy Vase&nbsp;Added a profile and files for vasemode and a profile for a solid wall version. Only the solid wall version will not leak water! If you want to support me you can join a patreon membership: https://www.patreon.com/SabreDesign&nbsp;Check out more of my designs below and on my profile:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/836526/2023-11-12_cce7379fb61f6.png"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/836526/2023-11-12_b5753ae883e85.png">

Modern Wavy Vase 

HpInvent

Here's a cute Bunny/Rabbit for you to print ;) Scale it to your liking. Unfortunately it should be printed with supports. Havent tried it without support, maybe it works. But for the best result you should use the support.It printed very well with the support wich removed easily as you can see in the pictures!&nbsp;Perfect for coloring with the children for Easter ;)  Don't forget to print his cute little friends and my other models: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/3624704578" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/u/3624704578</a> There you can finde more cute animals ;)  <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/3624704578" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/662422/2024-03-08_a8a626fc04c78.png"></a><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/210984" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/662422/2024-02-28_8818bd98777e4.png"></a><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/3624704578" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/662422/2024-02-27_c1e7b8a459e5d.jpg"></a><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/232706" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/662422/2024-03-06_ea517b7dbe741.png"></a>&nbsp; I also designed a matching easter egg stand for the cute bunny !  You can find it here : <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/199395" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/199395</a><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/199395" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/662422/2024-02-23_76a23ddd6bbe1.png"></a> Happy printing!

Cute easter Bunny Rabbit hanging ears sculpture / Süßer Osterhase mit hängenden Ohren

Ostern 

Mister.D

&nbsp;A minimal Desk Organizer (dual color) designed for your workspace. The print profiles are ready for AMS users so you can change the colors easy as you like, I personally like a PLA Marble filament combined with a dark filament on the base. This Model is for personal use only (non-commercial). DO NOT redistribute the files to anyone else.&nbsp;Those who are interested in product design, prototyping, product presentation and much more could contact me; my bio contains the contact details. Also, those who want to support my work, there is a link to do it:&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/iammister.d" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.buymeacoffee.com/iammister.d</a>&nbsp;Have a good day, MR.D

Desk Organizer / v2

Drucken 

BC Designs

Mounting the external spool on the side for easier access, with added filament guide for smooth operation. &nbsp;&nbsp;Parts<ul><li>2 x 608ZZ bearings</li><li>1 x PC4-M10 Pneumatic Connector (optional, included filament arm for PTFE tubing for those without)</li><li>1 x m3 x 14mm or 16mm for the top screw hole (start with the smaller one first as can bottom out and get stuck easily).</li><li>2 x m3 x 18mm for the bottom screw holes.</li></ul>Connector: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0966XQ4C4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0966XQ4C4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1</a>&nbsp;Choose either the 3mf file with the PC4-M10 fitting, or the one with PTFE passthrough.&nbsp;Included 3mf file setup as follows:<ul><li>0.20 layer height @ 50% infil, I recommend PLA+</li><li>4 walls</li><li>4 top and bottom layers</li><li>Supports</li><li>Spool on 2nd build plate as I think the model looks better in 2 colours :)</li><li>Both filament arms included on build plate, remove the one you dont want.</li></ul>&nbsp;Assembly<ol><li>Spend a few minutes carefully removing the supports from the inner slots </li><li>Screw on the pneumatic connector to the filament guide and inert some bowden tubing. The PC4-M10s allow the tubing to pass through.</li><li>Screw to side of case using the top back case screw hole and the 2 original screw holes.</li><li>Slide on spool holder. </li><li>Slide on filament arm.</li><li>Detatch when not in use or leave as is.</li></ol>

Bambu X1C / P1S side mount spool holder v2

P1S Druck Upgrade - Must have 

3DJupp

Thanks to BMoArtist and Michael McGoldrick for this lovely model!This is basically a dinosaur model, one is huge, the other one is scaled to 50 percent. If you need different versions, just contact me.

Cute Stylized Dinosaur Toy (different sizes)

Lizenz free 

Imaginarydave

<h2>Designing this took weeks of work and testing.   Your boosts are an appreciated form of thanks </h2>&nbsp;Update: I added a mirrored version of the bases and the manifold for those that want to mounth this somewhere other than on the printer or for those with a k1 max.&nbsp;Update #2: Enclosure file is up! check it out over at. <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/105490#profileId-112584" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/105490#profileId-112584</a><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000089050/design/2023-12-23_b2f1da0f06987.jpg">Update 3: changed print profile to use glued dowels to hold the two parts together.  I think this will sove the most common problem of getting things to line up.  &nbsp;This solved my biggest beef with day to day use of the printer……. changing filaments. &nbsp; I had a few goals.<ol><li>Be able to load filaments from the front.</li><li>Be able to leave my regularly used filaments in place</li><li>Have a place to hold filament when not in use to keep it from unrolling (you cant see it but there is holder behind each loading spot on the manifold.</li><li>be quiet - ie no rubbing.</li></ol>You&#39;re gonna need a few parts<ul><li>I used 4mm OD, 3mm ID PTFE tube to try to reduce friction. I ordered this stuff. <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/46UgvDl" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/46UgvDl</a> (bambu labs 4mm/2.5mm should work but you will definitely need to bevel entry points.)</li><li>PTFE tube connector. I used the Bambu labs one <a target="_blank" href="https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/ptfe-tube-connector" rel="nofollow noopener">https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/ptfe-tube-connector</a> you could also use one of these from amazon <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/3RLyR5f" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/3RLyR5f</a> . alternatively you could use a single piece of tubing that runs all the way from the extruder to the manifold but I wanted the option to disconnect at the machine.</li><li>8mm x300mm rod. <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/3RAq5qj" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/3RAq5qj</a> alternative link: https://amzn.to/47hFPmF</li><li>M10 push connector for PTFE tubing. I used these <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/3TcCwKm" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/3TcCwKm</a></li><li>M3 Heat set threaded inserts. I used ones from this kit. <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/4a8hv9L" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/4a8hv9L</a> but you could just buy M3 size which is the size I use the most for projects like these. <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/3NksT8C" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/3NksT8C</a></li><li>Sixteen 608-zz bearings. I use these. <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/4afBenR" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/4afBenR</a></li><li>M3 screws. I think I used mostly 10mm, but if you dont have a huge assortment of these already you should so get a variety and figure it out!</li><li>nylon washers I used ones from this kit. <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/41hQDQz" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/41hQDQz</a> 1.5mm thick. but I will also include an .stl file. you should be able to print them.</li><li>I used non slip glass top pads that I had around the house to keep it from sliding around. I am sure many different things could be used. These are what I use and it wont slide at all. <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/3Njf5uU" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/3Njf5uU</a></li></ul>How to do it…. you have to be detail oriented and if you skip any steps or have any rubbing it will cause problems.<ol><li>Print bodies as indicated in file notes.</li><li>While they are printing soak the bearings in denatured alcohol overnight, dry them out and the relube with a light oil like 3 in 1 oil or I used sewing machine oil. you need the bearing to spin like you would want them for a fidget spinner.</li><li>Heat sink the threaded inserts into the holes on the front of the bases.</li><li>using CA glue connect the bases together using the dowels.</li><li>Screw the manifold to the front</li><li>Fit TPU bearing covers over the bearings.</li><li>The fun part…… slowly fish the rods from right to left inserting washers and bearings as you go. there should be a washer on each side. this keeps bearings and rolls from rubbing the sides. The left side of each roller space should have the beveled bearing covers with the sharp edge to the left. in cross section it should look like this. The orientation of bearings on the right doesnt matter. Once they are all in make sure the TPU covers area aligned and not rubbing. they should spin freely.  <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000089050/design/92598ce5-25e7-4f56-b434-f6b64c34c06a.png"> <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000089050/design/d7e3122b-9a0d-4954-ab71-f1540a11ec56.png">  </li><li>once you have all 8 pieces through put screw the cover on to hold the rod in place - if you are printing the enclosure you can just leave them off the enclosure will keep the rods from coming out. </li><li>Assemble the manifold.<ol><li>cut 4 pieces of PTFE tube perfectly square and long enough to leave about 2-3 cm sticking out from the top of each loading point. seat them all the way.</li><li>screw the PTFE M10 connector into the manifold.  <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000089050/design/32e3f901-4987-49f4-bd7e-86cf8341156a.png"></li></ol></li><li>Place a coupler on the end of the PTFE tube coming out of the machine and attach PTFE tubing from that point, through the holders to the manifold.  <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000089050/design/24be0f7d-c06b-4884-9157-b27d22c1ccd5.jpg"></li><li>PRINT AWAY  </li></ol>&nbsp;&nbsp;EDIT:&nbsp;DrHO1337 over at printables has some code on his model (found here <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/621741-bambu-lab-manual-material-system" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/model/621741-bambu-lab-manual-material-system</a> ) that might make material changes easier for people who want to do simple prints with multiple colors. This model was initially just made for use with single color prints. give it a try. I havent used it. and give the guy a thumbs up over there.&nbsp;here are his instructions:In order to use the slicer correctly, like an AMS, you have to change the filamentchange gcode in the printer settings. The corresponding g-code is in &#34;noAMS.txt&#34;.  <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000089050/design/704c2202-1f8e-45e8-8cc8-147f0697874d.webp">  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

Vasen

ktm

Ostern

Drucken

P1S Druck Upgrade - Must have

Lizenz free

Drucker Upgrade