WeAreAllMad

CarlThePumpkinMan

This is an automatic dice tower designed to roll dice for tabletop games. It contains seven plates on which to place dice (one for each of the dice in a standard set of 7 dice), but they are large enough to accomodate multiple at a time if necessary. Pressing one of the pumpkin buttons at the bottom raises the other side of the lever, which pushes up a rod that tips the plate holding the dice, dumping the dice into the cauldron where they spill out into a pumpkin shaped enclosure.I wanted to evoke a Halloween theme by presenting the dice as ingredients being cast into a witch&#39;s cauldron.Special printing intructions: I added a filament change on the basetop to make the fence the dice fall into orange compared to the rest of it, but if you have a single filament printer you can do this by adding a pause there and switching out the filament manually. Supports are advisable on the cauldron itself, as the exit hole and base have some steep angles that may be hard to print cleanly otherwise. I did not use supports and paid the price.Why I made it: <figure class="media"><oembed url="https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Ura4iaaKDws"></oembed></figure> How-to-construct:<figure class="media"><oembed url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WPxvCco1hh4&amp;ab_channel=CarlThePumpkinMan"></oembed></figure>

Automatic Dice Tower Cauldron

Utilitaire

BrskaBxby

<h2>The Dice Tower</h2>The Dice Tower is a remake of an existing file, I modified it to make it easier to print, faster, stronger and removed useless parts.The front of the dice stopper has been reduced in size, so that everyone can see the result of the throws.&nbsp;All you need to do is to download it and then hit the print button.&nbsp;I recommend to use lighter dices, so they don&#39;t fly to the stratosphere.

Fantasy Dice Tower 

Games and dices

_donkey-brains_

One mace to rule them all?&nbsp;While there are a few adaptations of Sauron&#39;s mace scattered around the internet, I didn&#39;t necessary feel those were complete (no patterning), nor were they optimized well enough for printing and assembly (required internal structuring; a lot of post-processing). Therefore, I set out to model my own version from scratch that satisfied my own desired for a show piece. What I have here is a model designed entirely my me in fusion. I hope you enjoy it.&nbsp;This model consists of 21 pieces and 8 connectors to create a model that is ~46 inches long and can weigh upwards of 2kg. &nbsp;Printing Tips<ol><li>For my own print, I went with a silk filament because I hate post processing. While some parts can probably be printed flat, I have designed them to all be printed vertically. If using silk pla, I highly suggest to print all parts in the same orientation as that will give the best looking outcome. </li><li>I only own a P1S and have optimized this to print using most of the vertical space of that sized printer. If you have a smaller printer, I do apologize, but there are likely some spots where you can use the slicer to make parts smaller.</li><li>Any support I used were slim tree supports. I have uploaded my print profiles that I used which include manual tree supports. Threads, pattering, and small overhangs (like the handle rings) should not require any support. </li><li>I highly suggest to print the longer thread of the Lower Handle (Upper) piece facing up. This piece will be a weak point as it connects the lower handle to the rest of the mace. If that thread is printed down it will be supported and will be a weaker junction. I also suggest to use multiple bottom and top layers so this piece is strong.</li><li>Because the blades are optimized to be printed vertically, they have the pegs that will require support. Be sure to clean these supports well as the pegs being too large may effect final fitment. </li><li>Silk filament can give weird banding when cooling rate are different, so, if using silk filament, it may be a good idea to print each piece separately. This is what I did to ensure good consistency in the finish.</li><li>This print can probably use anywhere from 1kg all the way to 2kg of filament. Regardless, I highly suggest to make the lower handle sections either much more robust than the upper or, ideally, fully walled. My print profiles would culminate in a mace that weights about 1.7kg. </li></ol>Assembly Tips<ol><li>Assembly should be rather straight forward. I have attached pictures of the fusion model exploded into sections so as to be able to follow how to assemble. I suggest to assemble from the bottom to the top. I also suggest doing each section as a dry fitment before gluing everything together. After gluing any section, I suggest letting it cure for 24 hours before gluing attaching sections. </li><li>The threading has been given an ample offset, so these pieces should thread together easily. Thread each of the them together in the correct order dry and them take them apart and add a few drops of CA glue to the threads. Let these cure overnight. </li><li>For the upper handle section, Use the connector and CA glue to put the lower and upper sections together. Let cure 24 hours. </li><li>After both the lower and upper handle sections have cured, screw the lower handle section into the upper handle section. Use CA glue to bind these permanently. This will be a weakest point on the mace, so be careful. </li><li>Connect the upper and lower pike pieces using the large connector and CA glue. Let these cure 24 hours.</li><li>Using the smaller connector, connect the handle to the pike section. Fit this up with CA glue and let cure.</li><li>Dry fit each of the upper and lower blade sections into their respective positions in the pike. If these don&#39;t go in with no more than a little effort, ensure all support material has been removed. For blade assembly what worked best for me was:<ol><li>Add few drops of CA glue into each of the pike holes</li><li>Glue the blade connector into the bottom blade</li><li>Add glue to the top of the connector and place the top blade onto the lower blade and connector (this should give a few seconds to pull them apart when placing them into the pike holes). </li><li>Place the lower blade partway in to its pike hole</li><li>Place the upper blade partway into its pike hole</li><li>Press both the lower and upper blades all the way into their holes--this may require some wiggling and effort</li><li>Hold the upper and lower sections together vertically while pressing the entire thing toward the pike. Hold this for several seconds until glue sets. Then let cure fully before moving on to the next blade.</li></ol></li></ol>&nbsp;&nbsp;

Sauron's Mace

Alsamen

Hello, this time the kids have asked me for a &#34;Among Us&#34; figure. I know there are many published models but I wanted to publish my version. It requires very few supports and is easy to assemble, you can use 6x3 mm magnets or print 2 pins to assemble and disassemble it, I hope you like it. Happy prints&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 42.22%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000475792/design/2024-05-26_c93e165a25e938.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;

Among Us

Video games

Hello, I made this design for a nephew who is a big fan of this character. It is easy to print although it requires supports, you can print it in 2 colors without the need for AMS. For the head to be articulated, it requires 2 6x3 mm magnets. I hope you like it and enjoy it

Minecraft Creeper

Minecraft

Hi, you all know this nice character, a few years ago I made my version of it and today I share with you the keychain edition. I hope you like it&nbsp;<h2>Keychains</h2><ul><li>Nike Jordan Air 1 <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/469812#profileId-379263" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/469812#profileId-379263</a></li><li>Pascal Chameleon <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/470348#profileId-379845" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/470348#profileId-379845</a></li><li>Teddy Bear <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/470360#profileId-379856" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/470360#profileId-379856</a></li><li>Groot <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/470366#profileId-379861" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/470366#profileId-379861</a></li><li>Fluffy Unicorn <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/470373#profileId-379866" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/470373#profileId-379866</a></li></ul>&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 54.37%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000470366/design/2024-05-20_5bd79f96a2af7.jpg"></figure>

Groot Keychain

Films et series

Canadian Gamer

Dungeons &amp; Dragons Character Class Concept Art[ Dwarf Cleric ]&nbsp;This is part of a series of 4x6 hueforges to represent various character classes in Dungeons and Dragons. If you have a character you would love to have a hueforge for, reach out and let me know, I am open to requests. &nbsp;If you would like to print a frame for it, I have a design here:<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/173529#profileId-190705" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/173529#profileId-190705</a>&nbsp;The Rest of the Fantasy Themed prints can be found in this collection here: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/@CanadianGamer/collections/624430" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/@CanadianGamer/collections/624430</a>&nbsp;In my print profile I have assigned the model to have a variable layer print height, which means that the first 4 layers of the model will print with a 0.16 layer height, and switch to a 0.08 layer height for the details. If you use my uploaded print profile this will save you time on your print as the first 0.64mm is just to provide stability to the print for display. This means that the layer heights listed below in my printing instructions will not match my print profile (they will be off by 3) but the mm heights will still match! Do not change the print profile to match or it will not look the same!&nbsp;If you resize the model make sure you do NOT scale the Z axis or the print colours will not be in the same position&nbsp;Please post a picture of your printed copy! I&#39;d love to see it!&nbsp;— Printing Instructions---&nbsp;Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.08mm with a base layer of 0.16mmFilaments Used: PLA Generic Black Transmission Distance: 0.2 PLA BambuLab Matte Dark Brown Transmission Distance: 2.1 PLA BambuLab Matte Latte Brown Transmission Distance: 2 PLA BambuLab Matte Ivory White Transmission Distance: 4Swap Instructions: Start with Black At layer #12 (1.04mm) swap to Dark Brown At layer #18 (1.52mm) swap to Latte Brown At layer #23 (1.92mm) swap to Ivory White for the rest.

Utilitaire

Games and dices

SDA

Video games

Minecraft

Films et series

D&D