Voltron35

Sketchy

<h2>Gravity Phone Holder V2</h2>Introducing the Gravity Phone Holder V2, the next evolution in smartphone mounting technology. Building upon the success of its predecessor, the Gravity Phone Holder V2 offers enhanced features and improved functionality to elevate your mobile experience to new heights!&nbsp;With an upgraded design, the Gravity Phone Holder V2 boasts even smoother operation and greater stability. The gravity-activated mechanism has been fine-tuned for seamless one-handed usage, allowing you to effortlessly mount and dismount your device with precision and ease!&nbsp;<h3>What do I need to assemble it?</h3>You need:<ul><li>1 x rubber band</li><li>4 x M3 bolts ( around 8mm )</li><li>2 x M3 nuts</li></ul>&nbsp;<h3>How do I assemble it?</h3>It is relatively easy to assemble the Gravity Phone Holder V2! Just follow the steps below:&nbsp;Step 1: Insert the bolts into the back of the body.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000425349/design/2024-04-12_37d177278529a.jpg">Step 2: Following step 1, you screw on the mount onto the back of the body (I&#39;ve updated the mount and the vent clip).In the updated version, there is only the ventclip. The clip just needs to be bolted onto the body with 2 M3 bolts and nuts.&nbsp;Step 3: Insert the rubber band and the gears (the rubber band is optional).<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000425349/design/2024-04-12_8b047f7e5a864.jpg">Step 4: Screw on the lid, and you&#39;re done! Now this is optional, but you can lube it up by spraying the middle hole on the lid with some lubricant.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000425349/design/2024-04-12_10d66b1b5f40d.jpg">&nbsp;<h3>Tips and tricks</h3>No support needed for any of it!Maybe put a brim around the gears if you have bad bed adhesion.If using a rubber band, find a size that isn&#39;t too large (loose) or too small (tight).

Gravity Phone Holder V3!!!

utility

WimV

<h4>Operation of the lids.</h4>Below is an impression of how the lids work.&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000423164/design/879423bc-338e-4a96-b217-c93394eec243.gif">&nbsp;<h4>Printing</h4>The lid parts.&nbsp;The lids consist of three separate parts that have to be assembled afterwards. The two front parts (part 3L and 3R) are NOT the same! This is because the holes are slotted to achieve the mechanical locking of the lids. Part 3L is marked &#34;L&#34; on the side. Part 1 &amp; 2 must both be printed 2x.Printed in PLA, nozzle 0.4, layer thickness 0.2, infill 20% and support everywhere.&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000423164/design/06ba5b49-601e-4c49-af85-9929390ddfc5.jpg">&nbsp;After printing, all support residues must be removed. Do this thoroughly. There is often some extra residue on the axles due to the use of support. If necessary, cut this off so that the shaft becomes as round as possible. Make sure that the ends of the axle are slightly chamfered so that they can be mounted easily.<blockquote>For Part 1: the part with the axle. The axle can break of in use with either poor layer bonding or too much friction in the hinges. Print with 100% infill to enhance strength or use the extra part I added for use with bolt M3 (See bottom of page!)</blockquote>&nbsp;The Knob, Lock and Axle Lock&nbsp;You need 1x the Knob &amp; Lock and 2x the Axle LockFor the different parts and the correct orientation on the bed, see the image below.Printed in PLA, nozzle 0.4, layer thickness 0.2, infill 20% and no support.&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000423164/design/83dde606-05da-4cdf-b374-9037190c9be2.jpg">&nbsp;The Box&nbsp;For orientation on the bed, see the image below.Printed in PLA, nozzle 0.4, layer thickness 0.2, infill 20% and no support.&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000423164/design/030ab77c-c0c4-4206-b724-d56a93e3858a.jpg"><h4> </h4><h4>Assembly</h4>&nbsp;The lids&nbsp;Slide the different parts of the lid together. Pay close attention to the orientation! This is indicated in the image below. Notice that the shafts are pointing upwards! Once pushed together, the recess in the shaft falls over the cam in the opposite part, securing the two parts against sliding apart.&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000423164/design/69942bcb-86ec-41f7-b047-1d0537b76c8e.jpg">Mounting the Knob and Lock&nbsp;See image below. Notice that the axles are pointing downwards.Push the knob through both holes in the lids. Then press the Lock from below over both axes of the Knob. To obtain a firm anchoring, you can first put a drop of glue in both holes of the Lock and then press firmly.&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000423164/design/f1dbece2-8c02-48e2-bed9-fafd3656c26e.jpg">&nbsp;Mounting the Lids on the Box&nbsp;Place both axes of the lids in the holes of the Box. Rotate both lids to create an open Box. Now place both Axle Locks in the holes in both corners of the Box. The round part of the Axle Lock should be facing upwards. You can use a little glue to keep them in place. Be careful not to glue the axles!&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000423164/design/1d248058-315f-4de7-8a95-4d6a19ca4251.jpg">&nbsp;<h3>Operation of the mechanical lock.</h3>&nbsp;The lock works by interlocking 2 small printed tabs. Due to the rest position of the Knob, which is then vertical, they remain hooked together. By tilting the Knob backwards (which is possible through both slotted holes in the lids) they can unlock and you can open the lids. When closing the lids, you must ensure that the Knob is well pressed and is vertical. To be sure, you can additional tilt the knob towards you. (see video below)&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000423164/design/20b8ffe3-89e9-48f7-a98b-48e04b6eda40.gif">&nbsp;<h3>Box size and scaling</h3>&nbsp;The size of the Box 200x100x50 (knob not included) was created after a number of test prints for the hinges. I managed to stay within that 200mm, so it can be printed by almost all printers.But nevertheless the Box can be scaled. For FDM printing I would advise not to go below 80%). This already gives a very large saving on material and printing time, while the hinges still remain strong enough. It may be that the hinges are less flexible or operate less smooth due to the layer thickness of 0.2mm. By printing with a smaller layer thickness and/or nozzle, can you probably improve this.&nbsp;&nbsp;<h3>Breaking Axle of part 1 from the lids:</h3><figure class="image image-style-side image_resized" style="width: 36.21%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000423164/design/2024-06-08_47e7fbfea63f3.jpg"></figure>For this model good layer bonding is essential for the axles. In the past I made a version for use with a M3 bolt to make it stronger (see attached screenshot). Use 2 bolts M3x16. I have added that extra STL file. For the latching mechanism: ensure all, but realy all remnants of supports are removed. Mostly there are a few hard to remove remnants. Use a bore for the holes and a knife for the axles to make them smooth. Use correct temperatures and other settings for the used filament for bonding.

Storage Box with origami folding lids.

puzzle

squinn

A must-have drill accessory tool that both allows you to make sure you drill a perfectly perpendicular hole while also capturing all of the dust and debris. The front of the tool rotates so that you can select the guide hole that will best work for your drill bit, and then the cover on the back can be easily removed with a twist to dump the debris when you're done. A protruded pointer is included on the top of the piece to help with alignment.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/163361/2023-11-11_s7cilgno7l35.gif"></figure>This model has been designed so that no supports or brim are required, and the STLs are oriented as they should be on the print bed. Post print, the front and middle piece can be simply snapped together, so no glue or other hardware is required. I printed all three pieces of the one shown in the pictures in PLA, but TPU would likely work really well for the bottom “cover” piece if you have it.

Drill Guide and Dust Catcher

tools

jarvizar

3d miniature of Magic Kingdom in Walt Disney World, Florida!&nbsp;Also includes the Contemporary Resort and Bay Lake Tower!&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Disneyland California Miniature: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/252986#profileId-269372" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/252986#profileId-269372</a>&nbsp;Check out my collection of other miniatures: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/1935755220/collections/146964" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/u/1935755220/collections/146964</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Model created in Blender using data imported with the <a target="_blank" href="https://github.com/vvoovv/blosm" rel="nofollow noopener">Blosm</a> addon.&nbsp;<h3>Slicing & Printing Details</h3>This model was designed to be printed with a 0.4mm nozzle (0.16mm layer heights) or a 0.2mm nozzle (0.08mm layer heights)&nbsp;I have uploaded two different print profiles for each nozzle size with the recommended settings pre-applied ready to slice and print!&nbsp;Each print profile includes two different models of Magic Kingdom, one with suspended monorail tracks and another with grounded tracks (no overhangs).&nbsp;<figure class="table" style="width:95.01%;"><table class="ck-table-resized"><colgroup><col><col></colgroup><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:100%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/700259/2024-02-06_94f5271985add.jpg"></figure>Suspended Monorail Tracks</td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/700259/2024-03-01_5e235222ef045.png"></figure>Grounded Monorail Tracks</td></tr></tbody></table></figure>&nbsp;<ul><li>If printing with a 0.4mm nozzle, I highly recommend slicing the model using ‘Classic’ wall generation. ‘Arachne’ walls will usually omit some of the monorail pillars leading to poor bridging and stringing.<ul><li>*Note: if smaller details disappear after slicing with ‘Classic’ wall generation, try lowering the line/extrusion width of outer walls (external perimeters) closer to 0.4mm. Can also try enabling “Detect Thin Walls”!</li></ul></li></ul>&nbsp;<ul><li>If printing with a 0.2mm nozzle (or 0.4mm nozzle with the grounded tracks), I recommend slicing the model with ‘Arachne’ wall generation to include buildings and smaller details ‘Classic’ walls often fails to include.</li></ul>&nbsp;The included designer print profiles have the above settings pre-applied!&nbsp;Filaments used in photos: Sunlu Matte White (miniature), Bambu Matte Black (frame), Sunlu Sky Blue (water)&nbsp;<h3>Framing Details</h3>&nbsp;This model measures almost exactly 6.7in by 4.7in (170.5mm X 119.5mm) and should fit most 5x7 frames (assuming frame lip/overlap is around a quarter inch). Feel free to change the scale/size of the model(s) to meet your needs.&nbsp;Personally I use these cheap frames from Amazon: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C8HY7YSQ" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C8HY7YSQ</a>And blue printer paper: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/Astrobrights-491618-Multipurpose-8-5-Inch-11-Inch/dp/B00006IDQT" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006IDQT</a>&nbsp;I also included a fully printable frame (including a 1mm thick water plate) designed to fit all my miniature cities.&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/700259/2023-12-27_7536c6348b762.webp"><figcaption>Gif of the Printable Frame</figcaption></figure>&nbsp;A frame is not required! This model looks great by itself and can be displayed almost anywhere.&nbsp;See my <a target="_blank" href="http://patreon.com/jarvizar" rel="nofollow noopener">Patreon</a> for a commercial license, early downloads, polls towards future models, and more!&nbsp;

Disney World Magic Kingdom 3D Miniature

topo

Jamesgt

Most of the voronoi deer models were too big to my Kodama Trinus small print bed (120mm). Downscaling them made too thin walls, so I had to take a solid model, downscale and voronize it myself.Should be fine without supports and add a brim to ensure correct first layer.You might want to check the <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/69648" rel="nofollow noopener">flat deer</a> also ;)

utility

puzzle

tools

topo

Holidays