UNSC_partch

JesseZhang

Battery holder for DJI Goggles2. Attach your battery and cable to the headband. It is recommended to install it between two pieces of Velcro so that the hard plastic part does not directly contact with the skin. The clip on the holder has a non-slip structure that prevents the battery sliding from one side to the other.My goggles came with a 36mm headband, and I'm not sure if other regional versions are the same width. Let me know if you have different version. Print with no support. PLA or PETG

DJI Goggles 2 Battery holder with cable snap

无人机

Cookie‘s Dad

小米鱼缸出水口延长配件

鱼缸

AdiCrafts

An addon for the <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/zh/models/51655#profileId-53391" rel="nofollow noopener">MT-9 toy shooter</a> &nbsp;无明业火_Blazer's latest blowback toy shooter MT-9 is ingenious and extremly fun to play with. As mechanically perfect as it is, I can't help to notice the short grip doesn't look proportionally accurate as its reference Mauser C96. I totally understand it's intentional design choice, as the' baby miniture toy gun' is 无明业火_Blazer's signature design language. &nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/164045/2023-10-28_35954b21e9aff.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;My addon is simply extend the grip's length, making it looks nicer in proportion, and more comfy for people with larger hands.&nbsp;PRINT<ul><li>It's self-explainary, very easy to print. </li><li>All parts expect for the GRIP_EXT_CORE need no support. You should match your original color scheme with parts.</li><li>Print 2 pins horizontally on the bed. (A single pin should work as well)</li></ul>ASSEMBLE<ul><li>No additional hardware required. </li><li>The orignial two grip plates are replace by this mod.</li><li>Just attach the GRIP_EXT_CORE to the original grip with the sling ring. NOTE: the orientation matters. If you can't put the grip plates on correctly or have alignment issue with the 2 printed pins, you need to reverse the orientation of the GRIP_EXT_CORE.</li><li>Insert 2 printed pins into dedicated holes on the grip core extension.</li><li>Install both plates in correct directions. If everything is right, all the notches, lugs and pins should aligned perfectly.</li><li>Screw the original 2 grip bolts in.</li><li>And you are all set.</li></ul>DISCLAIMER<ul><li>This is an addon mod, instead of a remix of the original models. No original models were edited. All parts are created brand new.</li><li>The Standard Digital File License still applies. Please respect the license for both original design and this addon.</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/164045/2023-11-12_30224f8330067.png"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/164045/2023-11-16_4344dcd9194ec.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"></figure>

Long grip mod for the MT-9 toy shooter

发射器

左狗拳

模型外形参考：蝴蝶刀（Balisong Butterfly Knife）组装工具：胶水分件：已分件（自行拆解）其他：模型以设计好打印公差，请视自己机器设置打印参数。原创模型，仅供个人打印，请勿商用。组装视频：<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1d34y1G7MX/?spm_id_from=333.999.0.0&vd_source=ce261a6ae096f6019cad589ef253bc72"><div class="ck-media__wrapper" data-oembed-url="https://player.bilibili.com/player.html?bvid=BV1d34y1G7MX&autoplay=0&poster=1"> <div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"> <iframe src="https://player.bilibili.com/player.html?bvid=BV1d34y1G7MX&autoplay=0&poster=1" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe> </div> </div></div></figure>

蝴蝶刀（Balisong Butterfly Knife）

TeddyB

This was my first attempt adding color to a model and it turned out really awesome,so I figured I'd share it to save others the time I spent painting!&nbsp;I intentionally did not paint lower on the horns to meet the skull in the first print profile as it would add a half hour to print timebut I'll add a second print profile with fully colored horns as an option&nbsp;I added a third color to the model on the nails, teeth and eyes but I have not printed a 3 color version yet, print time would be the same for 2 or 3 color&nbsp;no supports or anything special needed&nbsp;If anyone is interested in more painting on the spines/scales leave a comment and let me know and I may add a third profile!&nbsp;I was originally aiming for a low print time from previous ender3 trauma but now that I trust my printer I may add more color&nbsp;I do not own the STL model I got it from thingiverse credit to https://www.thingiverse.com/Kulowskyyhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5753936

Articulated Ghost Dragon - 3 colors 

关节

SavageLau

<h3>If you want commercial license, check out my bio and get it from Patreon. </h3>&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/367988/2023-11-16_81cee5f53fc8c.gif"></figure> Hey guys, I made one little candy cane, you can play or put on your chrismas tree. Have fun and happy holiday. The model is so little, so it is a bit tricky to print, you will need to add brim and support for top part. Or you can use my preset files. You will need to joint two part together(thread), don't put tooooo much force on it. It is very thin wall!!!!

Candy Cane (Retractable) 22g

伸缩

Dingus Dude

To be sure you're always downloading the most up to date file, use my “DD” profiles. See changelog below for detailed updates.&nbsp;BetterBoxPrint In Place Double Storage Customizable Divider Parts BoxNot just for Bambu Lab parts! Makes a great jewelry box, too!&nbsp;This is another version of my Print In Place Hinged Box and part of my BetterBox series!Check out the rest of the lineup below to find the ones that fit your needs!<figure class="table" style="float:left;width:35%;"><table class="ck-table-resized" style="border:2px solid hsl(0, 0%, 100%);"><colgroup><col></colgroup><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/45645#profileId-47422" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/377353/2023-10-28_e2af4207409738.jpg"></a></figure></td></tr><tr><td style="border:2px solid hsl(0, 0%, 100%);"><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/22697#profileId-20609" rel="nofollow noopener">BetterBox</a> <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/45645#profileId-47422" rel="nofollow noopener">Customizable Dividers</a></td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/22697#profileId-20609" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/377353/2023-10-27_f53e9d31a992f8.jpg"></a></figure></td></tr><tr><td style="border:2px solid hsl(0, 0%, 100%);"><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/22697#profileId-20609" rel="nofollow noopener">BetterBox</a> <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/22697#profileId-20609" rel="nofollow noopener">Original Bambu Parts Box</a></td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/45918#profileId-47727" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/377353/2023-10-27_50d65c4b44a158.jpg"></a></figure></td></tr><tr><td style="border:2px solid hsl(0, 0%, 100%);"><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/22697#profileId-20609" rel="nofollow noopener">BetterBox</a> <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/45918#profileId-47727" rel="nofollow noopener">Empty Storage Box</a></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;-Now back to the box that you came here for-&nbsp;FEATURES:&nbsp;Print In Place Hinged Box&nbsp;Compartments:<ul><li>Fully customizable! Use all the included dividers or print any of the ones you want plus more. Whatever you want to store, this box can accommodate. Please share how yours is arranged! There are litterally HUNDREDS of variations! Mix and match divider colors to help organize!</li></ul>Flip Top Lid:<ul><li>Allows for double the storage! The Flip Top prints on a separate plate and is super easy to install. When the Flip Top snaps closed it sits tight to the top dividers so even the tiniest screws won't fall out or move to another compartment! In short, your parts STAY where you put them!</li></ul>&nbsp;Flip Top Installation:<figure class="table" style="float:left;width:50%;"><table style="border:2px solid hsl(0, 0%, 100%);"><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/377353/2023-10-31_5a34a1d06579c.gif"></figure></td></tr><tr><td style="border:2px solid hsl(0, 0%, 100%);"> </td></tr></tbody></table></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Box Dimensions175mm length107mm width (not including hinge and latch)61mm height (closed)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Of course it's not necessary but if you want to add to my <a target="_blank" href="https://paypal.me/davebarbier?country.x=US&locale.x=en_US" rel="nofollow noopener">beer fund</a> it would be much appreciated! 😄&nbsp;

BetterBox - Flip Top Storage Box

工具

squinn

A portable cable organizer which is setup as an easy print-in-place and includes a knob on the side for conveniently winding up the cable when you're ready to pack it away.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/76375/2023-09-13_fd01d80e216de.gif"></figure>This model is an easy print that requires no supports, and three different sizes are provided to accommodate cables of different lengths. If you're not sure which to choose, I'd recommend starting with the “medium” size.&nbsp;After printing, you'll want to place the cable within the groove at its halfway point, close the lid (which is intentionally designed to close tightly), wind up the cord clockwise using the handle, and then extend by simply grabbing the cable by both ends.&nbsp;Update 2023-09-13:&nbsp;Alternative smooth-sided versions of all three sizes have now been added, and also the handle design was slightly adjusted to add a small fillet and chamfer to decrease the bridge distance. Here's a close-up picture of the updated handle on the knurled and smooth-sided versions:<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/76375/2023-09-13_e75ea621224d08.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/76375/2023-09-13_68f2b35a6774b8.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;

Portable Cable Organizer / Winder

打印机

JamesThePrinter

Rotate the creme filling for satisfying clicks! As you rotate the filling, the spring arm will move from one position to the next, giving you a nice tactile feel. This model was designed to be the actual size of a Double Stuf Oreo (with extra creme for a better grip).&nbsp;&nbsp;AssemblyStart with one wafer piece upside-down. Glue the center gear into the center of the wafer. Stack the creme filling onto the wafer, ensuring that the tip of the spring is inside the gear. Glue the second wafer onto the remaining end of the center gear.&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/JamesThePrinter" rel="nofollow noopener">Buy Me A Coffee</a>&nbsp;The filaments used in the picture above are polymaker PolyTerra Charcoal PLA and Hatchbox True White

Super Clicky Oreo Spinner

BeeTee 3D

LED lamp of Master Chief himself.&nbsp;Two back plates are included: one with a hole for hanging, and one without a hole for placement on a desk or table. A base is also included, but the Chief is pretty sturdy without it. Up to you.&nbsp;&nbsp;How do I make this thing?!Easy!  Just follow these general steps, and you&#39;ll be lighting up your life in no time.  Pay attention, as there will be a quiz later.&nbsp;<ol><li>Download the model to your computer or open it in the Handy app.  I suggest downloading it and opening it so you can remove the purge line (Google is your friend here).  I also strongly suggest using the included profile, as it contains many little tweaks to prevent problems that are common with these types of lamps (gaps, wisps, separation, etc.)</li><li>Confirm whether you have enough AMS&#39;s to handle all of the colors.  I do my best to keep my lamps to 4 colors or less, but sometimes that&#39;s just not possible, and a second AMS will be needed.  Alternatively, you can build in pauses and conduct manual filament swaps, but you&#39;ll need to research how to do that on your own, because I&#39;m not good at that.</li><li>Ensure your filament colors are in the correct AMS slots that corresponds to the model.  Hint: I generally arrange my colors in alphabetical order, because I&#39;m weird like that.  Just be cautious of wildcards like &#34;light blue&#34;.</li><li>All of my models come with two different back plates.  One will have a hole for those of you that want to hang the lamp on a wall.  The other will not have a hole, and that&#39;s intended for those of you who will be placing the lamp on a desk or a table or a cat.  You do NOT need to print both back plates (or do, I don&#39;t care, I&#39;m not your mother).  Pick whichever one you want.  Some lamps will also come with a base.  This is to keep your lamp from tipping over like a drunk toddler if you&#39;re placing it on a flat surface.  If you&#39;re hanging it on a wall, you don&#39;t need the base.</li><li>I strongly recommend using a textured PEI plate, as that will do an excellent job in hiding the print lines, and that&#39;s what these prints are tweaked for.  But you can use whatever fancy plate you want -- again, I&#39;m not your mom.  </li><li>Once you&#39;ve got your AMS set up and are ready to go, hit that big ol&#39; PRINT button for the lamp face and then your back plate. I suggest disabling Flow Calibration.</li><li>Go make a sandwich.</li><li>You should now have the lamp face and your back plate of choice, and it&#39;s assembly time!</li><li>This first step is optional, but I would suggest picking up aluminum (or aluminium for some reason if you&#39;re British) foil tape.  Yes, it comes in tape form!  Line the inner side of the back plate with the sticky stuff, as it will help tremendously in making your light brighter and with a more even and consistent light.  I personally tear off small strips, apply, and then flatten/smooth it out with the edge of a credit card, and repeat until the entire side is shiny silver.</li><li>Next you&#39;re going to want to buy yourself some LEDs.  The options here are many and varied, and I can&#39;t decide for you (see mom comment above).  Decide what types of light you want.  Do you want basic white light?  Great!  Do you want cool white or warm white?  Do you want it to flash or dance to the music?  Do you want a switch?  Do you want a remote?  Do you want it to be USB or higher voltage?  Have you changed your mind and want it to be multi-colored or able to change color to the seasons or your mood?<ol><li>What I can do is make some suggestions.  First, there are several kinds of LEDs that are typically used in these types of lamps.  The first is a basic LED strip, which is a roll of circuit board tape with a sticky back-end.  These are the simplest and easiest to use.  Next is what&#39;s called a COB strip, which is basically the same, but instead of an LED every inch, it has a solid band of light.  Then there&#39;s neon COBs, which are self-explanatory.  There&#39;s also LED dome bulbs, which you would apply directly to the backplate, but would require soldering.</li><li>Whatever you choose, you want to look for the following:  - A way to power the thing.  USB, DC, solar panels, steam engine -- doesn&#39;t matter, just as long as you can turn it on and off.  - A way to trim the length.  Most LED strips have areas on them that are safe to cut with scissors as long as you cut precisely along the indicated area.  Once you make that cut, the part of the LED strip that&#39;s still connected to the power will function, but the remainder will no longer function (there are ways to repower them, but generally require soldering and/or special clips and new controllers.  Google is still your buddy here).  <ol><li>A way to secure the strip to the inside of the lamp.  Most LED strips come with an adhesive side, but not all -- make sure you know what you&#39;re buying.  In a pinch, hot glue will do the trick. </li><li>An LED strip length of 1m is usually sufficient, but some lamps do exceed that length.</li><li>Test EVERY strip before you apply it.</li></ol></li></ol></li><li>All of my lamps come with a hole in the side of the case that&#39;s just big enough for threading through the LED strip (if you don&#39;t want the hole, you can cover it with a small piece of electrical tape).  Thread the USB cable (or whatever power source you chose) from the inside through to the outside so the connecter is dangling just outside the lamp.  Then peel off the sticky backing of the LED strip, and start applying it to the inner wall perimeter of the lamp, maintaining steady pressure to ensure good adhesion.  Try to keep it as straight as possible.  Use a credit card or other narrow instrument to help get it into any nooks and crannies the lamp has.  Continue along the entire inner perimeter until you come back around to the outlet hole, and then make your cut.  Plug in the power to ensure the light still works.<ol><li>This is optional, but I suggest putting a dab of hot glue every inch or so to secure the strip extra tightly to the inside of the case.</li></ol></li><li>Now you&#39;re ready to close the lamp up.  Take the back plate you printed earlier and line it up with the front plate.  All of my back plates have a lip to help secure it, and it is a tight friction fit.  This helps keep the two halves together without needing to glue them, which allows you to open it back up in case you need to fix the LEDs.  Once it&#39;s lined up, squeeze the two halves together, ONLY PUTTING PRESSURE ON THE OUTER EDGES.  If you squeeze the lamp directly on the thin face or back plate, you&#39;ll put your whole hand through it like a gorilla.  <ol><li>Here&#39;s the method I use:  I place the edge of the box between the balls of my thumbs, lock the rest of my fingers together above it, and then squeeze.  As long as you&#39;re only squeezing on the EDGE, it can take a surprising amount of force.  I repeat this around the entire edge of the lamp until I have a tight fit.  Occasionally, for any tricky areas, a little sanding/trimming/clipping of the lip can be helpful.</li></ol></li><li>Lucky number 13, and you&#39;re done! </li></ol>&nbsp;Quiz time (did you think that was a joke?)  1. What&#39;s the suggested way of opening the lamp file?  2. What do you need to ensure is in the right order before printing?  3. I&#39;m not your _______?  4. Which back plate should you use for which scenario?  5. What is the recommended plate you should use for lamps?  6. What kind of sandwich did you make?  7. What type of LEDs did you decide on, and what should you do before applying it? 8. What should you NEVER apply pressure to or squeeze when joining the lamp halves together? 9. Did you have fun? &nbsp;Feel free to join me on Patreon @ BeeTee 3D for more, including exclusive lamps!  &nbsp;

Master Chief LED Lamp

johnny2shae

Command Wolf Zoid

模型

GlennovitS 3D

UPDATE 13. Dec 2023 - Added 12 more sizes! (same lengths, but with a bigger or smaller lid/opening - size 30 and 50. Size 40 is the original) Enjoy!&nbsp;With this simple little print, you can make your bags a lot easier to use in the kitchen! It’s easy to open, pour and close again. Just print and mount on the bag and you are ready to go! No extra hardware needed - all 3D printed. Ready within an hour - almost no reason not to try this ;-)<h2>Overview</h2>The model comes in 18 sizes for now! It's based on the diameter of the lid/opening and the length of the clip. The diameter comes in 3 sizes:<ul><li>30 mm</li><li>40 mm</li><li>50 mm</li></ul>All lengths of the clips in a particular diameter size, uses the same Cylinder and Lid.The clip comes in 6 lengths (currently from XS to XXL). The total length of the different sizes is approx.:<ul><li>XS: 55, 65, 75 mm (depending on the diameter of the lid/openening)</li><li>S: 90 mm</li><li>M: 120 mm</li><li>L: 150 mm</li><li>XL: 180 mm</li><li>XXL: 210 mm</li></ul>For your information, the sizes used on the images are:<ul><li>Pink: 40 - XS</li><li>Yellow: 40 - XL</li><li>Blue: 30 - XS</li></ul>If you have a request for more sizes or other ideas that would make this clip even better, please leave a comment and I’ll get back to you!<figure class="image image_resized image-style-side" style="width:40.53%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/450294/2023-12-11_bc82b2a49eaeb.gif"></figure><h2>Assembly</h2><ol><li>Cut a hole in the bag (fx. a hole in the corner just big enough to fit the cylinder)</li><li>Hold the Cylinder in the hole with the thread sticking out.</li><li>Mount the Clip around the bag and Cylinder base</li><li>Screw the Lid on</li></ol><h2>Print instructions</h2>It prints easy and can print with default values. There are some tips though to make it better.<ul><li>Supports: No - the print-in-place hinge prints without supports!</li><li>Walls/perimeters: 3-5 - the more walls, the stronger but more filament is used - so test a see what you find the best.</li><li>Infill: The more infil, the stronger it will be. Mostly needed on the longer Clip versions.</li></ul>&nbsp;Happy printing!&nbsp;<h2>Want to show your support?</h2>You can see all my designs on Printables - and you can become an active supporter. I would really appreciate it!<a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@GlennovitS3D#join" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/@GlennovitS3D#join</a>

无人机

鱼缸

发射器

刀

关节

伸缩

工具

打印机

EDC

画

模型

生活