TomeX007

entroisdimensions_figurine

Here's the first of a great series! Bulbasaur is now available, and you have the choice between different file formats:<ul><li>STL</li><li>3mf for Multicolor Bambu Lab printer</li><li>3mf for Multicolor Prusa printer</li></ul>Video of printing the model: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/shorts/IG8xshdpNYw" rel="nofollow noopener">YouTube</a>, <a target="_blank" href="https://www.instagram.com/p/C2z_4D4sj75/" rel="nofollow noopener">Instagram</a>, <a target="_blank" href="https://www.tiktok.com/@polymaker_figurines/video/7330683718744476958" rel="nofollow noopener">Tiktok</a> For printing, I used PolyTerra PLA filament from Polymaker: 5 colors version:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://us.polymaker.com/products/polyterra-pla?variant=39574352166969" rel="nofollow noopener">PolyTerra PLA Arctic Teal</a> (for the body)</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://us.polymaker.com/products/polyterra-pla?variant=39574351740985" rel="nofollow noopener">PolyTerra PLA Forest Green</a> (for the bulb and body pattern)</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://us.polymaker.com/products/polyterra-pla?variant=39574352003129" rel="nofollow noopener">PolyTerra PLA Sakura Pink</a> (for the tongue)</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://us.polymaker.com/products/polyterra-pla?variant=39574352101433" rel="nofollow noopener">PolyTerra PLA Lava Red</a> (for the eyes iris)</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://us.polymaker.com/products/polyterra-pla?variant=39574352232505" rel="nofollow noopener">PolyTerra PLA Cotton White</a> (for the claw, white of the eyes and pupil)</li></ul>4 colors version:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://us.polymaker.com/products/polyterra-pla?variant=39574352166969" rel="nofollow noopener">PolyTerra PLA Arctic Teal</a> (for the body)</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://us.polymaker.com/products/polyterra-pla?variant=39574351740985" rel="nofollow noopener">PolyTerra PLA Forest Green</a> (for the bulb and body pattern)</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://us.polymaker.com/products/polyterra-pla?variant=39574352101433" rel="nofollow noopener">PolyTerra PLA Lava Red</a> (for the eyes iris and the tongue)</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://us.polymaker.com/products/polyterra-pla?variant=39574352232505" rel="nofollow noopener">PolyTerra PLA Cotton White</a> (for the claw, white of the eyes and pupil)</li></ul>To discover which new models will be released next, follow @polymaker_figurines: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.instagram.com/polymaker_figurines/" rel="nofollow noopener">Instagram</a>, <a target="_blank" href="https://www.tiktok.com/@polymaker_figurines" rel="nofollow noopener">TikTok</a>, <a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCScmlttdRwRbBA61ZGlUVJg" rel="nofollow noopener">YouTube</a> Join the Figurines Community on <a target="_blank" href="https://discord.com/invite/r2ujMfEb7S" rel="nofollow noopener">Discord</a> Happy Printing!-----------------------------------------------Printer settings on the Bambu Lab X1C<ul><li>Rafts: No</li><li>Supports: Yes</li><li>Resolution: 0.2mm</li><li>Infill: 10%</li><li>Filament brand: Polymaker</li><li>Filament color: Teal, Green, Pink, Red, White</li><li>Filament material: <a target="_blank" href="https://us.polymaker.com/products/polyterra-pla" rel="nofollow noopener">PolyTerra PLA</a></li></ul>

Bulbasaur Multicolor

151 Pokemon 

Leon Fisher-Skipper

<h2>This Feature got implemented for P1 and X1 in <a target="_blank" href="https://github.com/bambulab/BambuStudio/releases/tag/v01.09.00.60" rel="nofollow noopener">BambuStudio Beta 1.9</a>. Please use this, as you can easily adapt the retraction length and turn the feature on and off as you please. A1 and A1 mini still have to use the download here.  </h2><h2>Description:</h2>TLDR: This mod allows you to use a lower flush multiplier without the color bleed that it would have with the default profile. &nbsp;Great <a target="_blank" href="https://youtu.be/suFbfer1WhI?si=7mcjxLNhubW9WR1a" rel="nofollow noopener">video</a> by butter pocket prints explaining this change.&nbsp;<h2>How to use it:</h2><ol><li>Open the 3mf file and save the Nozzle Profiles of your Printer to your User Presets. It will tell you that the G-Code was changed, confirm with OK, as this is exactly how the profile works. The profile name has to be changed to save it.  </li><li>Now you need to adjust your purge settings! I would just set the multiplier to 0.5 on P1 and X1 and 0.65 on A1 and A1 mini. The values may now show red in the purge settings, but they will still work. </li></ol>!Dont use with Silk PLA!  !Confirm that you are running the newest Version of Bambu Slicer. Orca Slicer may work but is not tested!&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Original Post from 14.09.2023 on Printables with the title “bambulab profile for up to 60% purge reduction” which has sadly since been deleted by prusa:&nbsp;&nbsp;<h2>Orginal Description:</h2>The biggest issue with The Bambulab printers is that during multicolor printing ridiculous amounts of purge (dubbed poop by some) are generated, when switching colors.(Example: <a target="_blank" href="https://reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/iMiT0Bis6i" rel="nofollow noopener">https://reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/iMiT0Bis6i</a> or <a target="_blank" href="https://reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/wDpB3A3N6k" rel="nofollow noopener">https://reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/wDpB3A3N6k</a>)This has to be done to clear the Printhead of the old color and replace it with the new color.The Print head has a internal volume bellow the cutter of 110 mm3, meaning that at least 110 mm3 of filament has to be flushed and an additional amount to account for the transition when the old color mixes into the new color.Of these 110 mm3 in the hot end, only half get melted, as the rest stays in the cold part around the heat sink.Here comes a neat trick I found: Before cutting, the unmelted part can get pulled up so that it can be fed back into the AMS. When the new filament is feed into the hotend, it gets pushed in an additional 20mm.This means that for every filament change 50mm3 of filament is saved.As a result much less purge volume is required.When the print ends, the filament also gets pushed out 20 mm, to also save filament here.The filament gets pushed out another 20mm during purging when starting the print too, to account for the push-back when the print ends.   The saving results can be seen in the first picture.I used this model (<a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/536401-bambu-lab-ams-purging-strips-p1p/files" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/model/536401-bambu-lab-ams-purging-strips-p1p/files </a>) by Joey_466945 and printed it once with the „Save filament Profile“ and once with the normal on. The flush Volumes have to be set to 0 for this test! Each line on the strips corresponds to 100 mm3. It’s clearly visible that each transition is shifted by 50mm3.For advantageous color combinations like blue and red these 50mm3 savings correspond to a very high saving percentage. Combinations which have a lot of color bleed like white to black need a lot of purging still, so the percentage saved is much less.I printed two benchies for comparison (the left one is the saving Profil) and the quality stayed the same, despite the flush volumes being reduced by 50mm3. The benchy with my profile generated 60% less purge.Both prints used a prime tower though which stayed the same size.  The Profile only changes 8 lines of code in the G-Code.I tested thousands of filament changes and had no issues. Tests have been done on X1C, P1P, P1S and A1 mini. Edit: Silk PLA and Bambu support material should not be used with this profile. Tests by Bambulab indicate problems.   &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;—————————————————————————————————————————————————UPDATE 01.02.2024: I made a mistake with the A1 and A1 mini profiles. Retraction was now lowered and should improve reliability. Max. savings with A1 and A1 mini is now 33% and the net savings per filament change is 36 mm3. P1 and X1 still have a max saving of 45% and a net saving of 50 mm3. This is due to the changed geometry of the hotend, because the hot zone is a bit longer. This reduction is more on the conservative side, it is probably possible to get away with more savings, but I can’t test it yet as I don’t have a A1 or mini. &nbsp;UPDATE 25.01.2024: Bambulab updated the A1 and A1 mini print profiles, so I also updated them to the current version.I have also heard back from Bambulab and they are testing the feature. They have run into problems with Silk PLA though, so it seems it works not with all filaments perfectly. <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/1929892454" rel="nofollow noopener">@EyemJoe</a> also mentioned problems with Support filament. If you use these two filaments be careful. &nbsp;UPDATE 11.01.2024: I changed the start G-Code as on some printers the Load Line was incomplete on some printers.Thanks to <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@Cosquilla_523214" rel="nofollow noopener">@Cosquilla_523214</a> for pointing me to the issues and suggesting a fix. I also changed the title, as the calculated maximum saving is 45% for this method and not 60% as the title stated before. The 60% was what I observed on my testprint, but this was with a small quality reduction. 45% is without a quality reduction. &nbsp;I have also found out that Bill from 3D chameleon also was using retractions to reduce waste on the Bambu Printers a couple of months before me. I independently came up with this, but his hardware based solution is also very interesting. The big difference is, that my profile doesn’t require any hardware changes. If you are interested in multi color printing, his Chameleon is very interesting and was one of the smartest and best solutions before the Bambu AMS. It also makes Multi-color printing possible on any printer. If you are interested visit his <a target="_blank" href="https://www.3dchameleon.com/" rel="nofollow noopener">Website</a>, where he will also soon launch the MK4 version. &nbsp;UPDATE 18.12.2023: Now Profiles for all Bambu Printers and all Nozzles including A1, A1 mini and X1E.Thanks for @rc2k7_1528233, @Sven and @AustinWolt_1104655 for testing the A1 mini Profile.@AustinWolt_1104655 also made a <a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VLgqqTbFd3k" rel="nofollow noopener">Video</a> explaining how to use the Profiles.&nbsp;UPDATE 12.12.2023: I added profiles for all nozzle sizes and Printers including the P1P, P1S, X1C and one experimental profile for the A1 mini.All the profiles are saved in the same file. Save those you need to your User Presets.I also slightly updated the documentation in the code to make it more clear.&nbsp;UPDATE 20.09.2023: G-Code was modified so that the calculated amounts of waste from Bambu Studio are accurate. Before there was a small discrepancy.I also wrote the G-Code down below with instructions how to use the settings without the download.—————————————————————————————————————————————————  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;To use the changes without the download do the following:To use these changes go into Printer Profil and select one of the Profiles you want to change. If you dont use any custom profiles, just use the standard, in my case “Bambu Lab X1 Carbon 0.4 Nozzle” for the 0.4 Nozzle. <img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/582382/rich_content/e29a19a0-b85b-4006-869e-9fe5754d62ca/thumbs/cover/800x460/jpg/bambulabchangeprofil.webp">Then go into “Machine G-Code” and edit the G-Code in 3 of the text fields like described below. Save the changes afterwards.<img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/582382/rich_content/3ecd6635-2875-4137-a41c-7cb7eac954d2/thumbs/cover/800x459/jpg/bambulabchangeprofil2.webp">&nbsp;Changes to the g-code are marked bold in the PDF documentation.

Reduce purge by up to 45%.

Less Poop

R C 3D

SUMMARY: This model is a replica AH-1S Super Cobra attack helicopter used by the Army and Marines. The model is designed to print and assemble easily, so there are minor modifications to the overall design in order to do that. The initial upload was the entire project file with multiple plates. I will be leaving this and v2 in the raw model files, but I’ve removed the print profiles as the latest revision supersedes these. If you come across any issues, please leave me some feedback. Assembly instructions are found below.&nbsp;<img src="https://lh7-us.googleusercontent.com/tPopnETRQjRIO8FbJdPHYaC800-p8eGpqc-B1n1SJd4BLnFpOugBpAmB-LMwMpCOa0UO-GaB0tq48P0GitCCJZqmSLlKZi84jvChGy6x3zY0L4iGlvlJD0Da17JlvR7pJuVIS_gMd27OLTCmjgVIosk"><img src="https://lh7-us.googleusercontent.com/RAi24oWbGOZX1C6OG33Sbn_4Mu3ZA6JglB5xoPTfGPkGhmgXO0tL9-Zp9oshsGoz09j-eW_O89YEAyBENcp_K8sZWGy2faVi6OjzPotN_fDPukNE1d5VYOW8a2NGEuSfmvB5NTmzVxTlWJiza6xLNjk">&nbsp;Printing/Post-Processing:If you decide not to use the print profiles, these are the settings I used.&nbsp;<ul><li>Global Settings:<ul><li>0.16mm Layer Height</li><li>Arachne Wall Generator</li><li>3 Wall Loops</li><li>Gyroid Infill</li><li>Outer Wall Speed: 100 mm/s</li><li>Overhang Speed:<ul><li>25,50%: 40 mm/s</li><li>50,75%: 20 mm/s</li><li>75,100%: 20 mm/s</li></ul></li></ul></li><li>Cabin:<ul><li>No object specific settings changed, uses global slicer settings only.</li></ul></li><li>Tail:<ul><li>Enable Support: Paint them on under the stabilizers only.<ul><li>Normal (Manual)</li><li>Snug</li><li>On Build Plate Only</li></ul></li><li>Once printed, I use a deburring tool to clean up any rough surfaces on the overhang of the tail as well as the bottom of the stabilizers.</li></ul></li><li>Wings/Cowl:<ul><li>Brim Type: No-Brim</li><li>Enable Support: Painted on under the wings only. The remaining overhangs will print as is.<ul><li>Normal (Manual)</li><li>Snug</li></ul></li><li>Once printed, I used a deburring tool to clean up the bottom of the wings.</li></ul></li><li>Rotors, Landing Gear, Mounted Turret:<ul><li>Layer Height: 0.12mm</li><li>8 Wall Loops</li><li>Primary Rotor Brim: Outer Brim Only and 8mm Width.</li><li>Turret:<ul><li>Enable Supports: Normal (Auto)</li><li>Snug</li><li>On Build Plate Only</li></ul></li><li>Once printed, I used a deburring tool to clean up the bottom of the turret barrel. You’ll also need to remove the brim from the rotor and landing gear.</li></ul></li><li>Windows:<ul><li>The windows were designed to print on the topside so you can use a patterned plate to create visual effects.</li><li>There are 3 windows which need supports enabled. These are the rear left and right windows as well as the rear top window. The two side pieces may print fine as is, but have a very small angle at the corner. I’ve printed them successfully without supports, but why not? The top rear will definitely need the supports as it wraps slightly around the top.</li><li>Enable Supports: Normal (Auto)<ul><li>Snug</li><li>On Build Plate Only</li></ul></li></ul></li></ul>Assembly:The assembly requires no glue, but I recommend using super glue if this is going to be played with. The fit is fairly snug for most components, so all you need to do is press them into place. The connecting joints have sloped holes, so as you press the pieces into place, they will tighten down. I used a small clamp to make sure they were all pressed in sufficiently.&nbsp;<ol><li>Assemble the tail and cabin by inserting the alignment pin and pressing the pieces firmly together.</li><li>Insert the wings into the cabin and press firmly into place.</li><li>Insert the smaller alignment pins into the cabin and press the cowl onto the pins.</li><li>Press the windows firmly into place.</li><li>Push the primary rotor into the slot. This will require a little force, so I recommend either using a clamp and slowly tightening until it pops into place, or hold the piece parallel to the slot as much as possible and press directly onto the center of the rotor so you don’t bend the connector. Once it snaps into place, it should spin freely with no slop.</li><li>Push the tail rotor into place. Try to press slowly and straight so you don’t snap the connector.</li><li>Push the nose mounted turret into its’ socket. This will be tighter than the other two and once it snaps into place, it will have mild resistance when rotating.</li><li>Finally, press the landing gear into the slots on the cabin and you’re done.</li></ol>&nbsp;That's all there is to it. I tried to break it up into pieces that would likely be the same colors, but the raw files are also up. Follow my facebook page, RC3D, for giveaways and entry details as well as my latest models.&nbsp;CHANGELOG:&nbsp;UPDATE (11/22/2023):I revised several pieces to either print in fewer pieces or to assemble easier without glue. The overall project was reduced to 4 plates that print with settings closer to the default profiles.&nbsp;<ol><li>Increased tail rear curve radius to print easier without rough spots on the rear of the tail.</li><li>Revised the tail rotor to press into place without snapping as easily and to rotate freely without resistance.</li><li>Decreased tolerance on alignment pin for cabin and body. This ensures a tight fit that doesn’t require glue to remain in place.</li><li>Tightened tolerances for the wings, landing gear, and nose mounted turret.</li><li>Increased turret guide shaft diameter to provide mild resistance when turning. Revised the connector to hold in place more firmly.</li><li>Added connectors to the windows for a press-fit assembly.</li><li>Added alignment pins for the cowl.</li></ol>&nbsp;UPDATE (11/13/2023):The tail piece for the v2 print profile was missing the supports under the stabilizers. v2.1 fixes that.&nbsp;UPDATE (11/5/2023):I've made numerous updates to improve printer friendliness, ease of assembly, and functionality. I've uploaded the v2 files into the raw files repository as 3mf files. I've also added print profiles for each plate of v2. The settings used are above, so you may only need to change the filament type. Most of the plates with multiple pieces are auto arranged and printed by object to avoid banding at different layers. See the change log below:<ol><li>Combined the wings and their mounted weapons. There's a small integrated support that prints with this piece. It will leave a slightly rough edge on the wing, but a quick pass with a deburring tool cleans it right up.</li><li>Added a second alignment pin on the cowl so it's easier to align when assembling.</li><li>Added a guide on the main rotor so it doesn't wobble. It should feel tight and spin freely now.</li><li>Adjusted the rear rotor to fit better and prevent snapping the ends off.</li><li>Added a guide on the nose mounted gun to make it less wobbly as well.</li><li>Tightened up several connection points. The wings are a more snug fit now, but still require glue. The center alignment pin now fits very snug.</li><li>Combined the tail and stabilizers. These now require supports painted on underneath the stabilizers. This also leaves a slightly rough surface, but is cleaned up easily with a deburring tool. This eliminates another assembly step, and looks clean so I'm going to accept that it requires support. Any sharper of an angle and they wouldn't look right, so this is the best of both worlds I think.</li></ol>This version came out just as clean, but more functional and easier to assemble. I hope everyone enjoys it as much as I have!&nbsp;INITIAL RELEASE (9/19/2023):&nbsp;The models were designed to print without support. They're arranged on the plate how they should be printed, but the ones that matter most are the cabin and tail of the helicopter. As long as those are printed as shown with adaptive layers, they should come out as intended. The assembly is pretty simple, but I will include the steps below. Detailed instructions to follow in the near future.<ol><li>Super glue the cabin and tail together with the bottoms aligned.</li><li>Super glue the cowl on the top of the cabin with the indent aligned.</li><li>Super glue the gun turrets to the wings, and super glue the wings to the cabin.</li><li>Super glue the tail wings to the tail.</li><li>Super glue the machine gun barrel to the turret.</li><li>Slide the tail pin through the hole and super glue the rear prop to the pin.</li><li>Pop the primary prop into the slot.</li><li>Pop the machine gun turret into the slot under the cabin.</li><li>Press the landing gear into the slots on the cabin.</li></ol>Print Settings:<ol><li>I used 0.16mm layer height on all of them.</li><li>I set the cabin and tail to adaptive layers and smoothed out a bit.</li><li>I used 6 walls on the landing gear, props, barrels, etc. The plate with the primary prop.</li><li>Otherwise default settings including brims. No supports.</li></ol>

151 Pokemon

Less Poop

The Wants