Toma_Goch

maegu_

Wall Art - Deer

small prints

krles.ul

Chess box for Harry Potter chess figures.glued 6 magnets 6x3mminsert like hinge piece of filament.&nbsp;Figures are printed on sla printer from this site: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/harry-potter-chess

Chess box Harry Potter

Chess

xchgre

Image of the Moon, the Earth's only natural satellite. It is a rocky, cratered object, which is tidally locked to the Earth at this time, so one face is visible from Earth. The far side of the Moon is visible only to cameras and humans aboard spacecraft that have orbited it. Author/Origin/License: Dr. Carol Christian, HST Outreach Project Scientist and 3D Astronomy@STScI Team Lead, Public Domain

Moon - Ultra high detailed

cosmos

Carman3D

Functional 3D Printed Mill&nbsp;Purchased components are listed below, these are McMaster-Carr part numbers with the exception of the router which I purchased on Amazon. You could definitely source cheaper hardware, but the bolts that are labeled (Fully Threaded) need to be. The router is just a cheap one so you may want a better router, or already have one. I included a step file of that part so that you can modify to fit another router.&nbsp;When assembling I would recommend tapping the ½-13 holes if you have a tap, I was able to assemble without it, but it took some working back and forth to make it smooth, and WD-40 can help as well. The second one I built I tapped the holes after printing and it made it a lot easier.&nbsp;½-13 Hex Head Bolts&nbsp;(2) 92800A407 - 10” Long (Fully Threaded)(10) 92240A715 - 1-1/2” Long (Comes in 10 pack)(1) 92800A408 - 12” Long (Fully Threaded)(1) 92240A740 - 8” Long (Fully Threaded)(1) 92240A728 - 4” Long (Fully Threaded)(4) 92240A710 – ¾” Long (Comes in 10 pack)&nbsp;3/8-16 Hex Head Bolts&nbsp;(4) 92240A622 – ¾” Long (Comes in 25 pack)&nbsp;1/2-13 Socket Head Cap Screw&nbsp;(1) 91251A722 - 2-1/2” Long (Comes in 10 pack)&nbsp;Set Screw Shaft Collar&nbsp;(3) 9414T11&nbsp;Routerhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B094VSC1GT?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

Functional Vertical Milling Machine

Biology

BamBam Design

Ugrinsky Wind turbine optimized with a little Helix! It don&#39;t need much wind force to spin.&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/shorts/cDmhTBhQGTs" rel="nofollow noopener">YouTube Short</a>&nbsp;Approx Ø190 - Height 168mm - Bore Ø5,6There are much ways out there to scale it if you want!&nbsp;Very easy printable! Vase mode with 15x 0,2mm bottom layersLine width 0,45-0,5 You need to print 2 Parts =&gt; Bottom &amp; Top, then glue the parts together.&nbsp;Happy Printing 🤗&nbsp;Commercial license you can get here:<a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/BamBamDesign/membership" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.patreon.com/BamBamDesign/membership</a>

Ugrinsky Vertical wind turbine - Vasemode 

Wind farm

Jorge Rui

<h3>A very long Introduction …</h3>&nbsp;I present to you my suggestion for vibration damping for any 3D printer.There are many systems that try, and indeed reduce vibrations, but not all systems are efficient, or even applicable to all contexts.Many of the structures available are fine for light printers (approximately 5kg), but in the case of larger printers, something more robust is needed, more capable of withstanding all the inertial and static loads generated when the printer is operating. The simple springs, with more or less intricate geometries, cease to be efficient at a certain limit. Take the case of the X1C of the bambulab, with the loaded AMS can weight around 20kg, which gives 5 kg for each foot considering the machine at rest, although it is not considered heavy, the simple spring-type systems may not be the most efficient.The movement is not absorbed by magical arts, it will be dissipated in some way (heat transfer, and other types of vibration as is the case of sound waves), if it is not dissipated on a certain moment, it will be propagated along the structure that supports the machine until can find a way to dissipate. Polymers, as an example, TPU and TPE can be 60 and 90 on the scale of hardness Shore A. Ninety A is too hard, below 85A will be better, as is the case of the Ninjaflex filament, but for this type of situation, it also does not seem enough. <h4>My sugestion</h4>There are materials with a much lower Shore A index, for example Silicone and others, (silicone starts at 10). But, available silicone is readily available. The one that is applied on glass and kitchens has it shore A scale is between 45 and 50, far below any TPU-TPE. Besides being something easily available is cheap. I thought it was a viable alternative to other damping systems.<h4>Expected effects</h4>The system was designed to support the vertical load, relative to the weight of the set, but also and above all, to absorb the lateral loads.Proof of concept.<figure class="media"></figure>Interesting questions for 3d Printers:<ul><li>Is the lateral resistance to week, for printer loads?</li><li>Is the resistance in general to week, with the printer oscillates to much?<ul><li>This is not ok, the swing effect can be dangerous, although the limit is approx. +/-3mm</li></ul></li><li>Silicon degradation and subsequent breakage. </li></ul>If any of this happens the silicone may not be a good solution, the problem is that there is a LOT of this Polydimethylsiloxane (silicone) elastomers types out there… <h5> Warnings and considerations</h5>So, I present my solution, it is simple and ready for you to try. Before you take any tests, I want it to be clear that I am not responsible for any kind of damage that this experience may cause. So that there are no doubts, this does not try to reduce the noise, but the vibrations and therefore some of the noise should disappear.I remember that the Silicone although it seems dry after a few minutes, is not cured, this process can take days, depending on the ambient conditions, large volumes of silicone take longer to cure.<h3>Assembling</h3>&nbsp;<blockquote>First and foremost, do not focus on the printer being given as an example, this is applicable to any printer, you just have to change the part of the contact zone.</blockquote><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/user/3059492201/draft/2023-08-31_r10jrghspzcp.png"></figure><ol><li>Print the Parts;<ol><li>The dark part “Stoper” should be TPU and printed with a 100% infill. Other parts, PLA or PETG (infill of 40% or more).</li></ol></li><li>Mount according to the orientation of the image;<ol><li>The red part is only a centralizer, being later discarded, so it is only necessary to print one unit.</li></ol></li><li>Assemble the parts except for the "stoper" in TPU;<ol><li>Get an old cloth to put the parts down, and place it on a flat area.</li><li>It is better to put gloves, silicone is very sticky and hard to remove. Watch your clothes…</li></ol></li><li>Fill with silicone through the filling gate, let stand 1 or 2 minutes and if necessary, add more silicone.</li><li>Put the “Stoper”;<ol><li>Leave to stand about 24 hours (or more) in that position.</li></ol></li><li>Rotate the foot upwards, to the position in which it will be applied to the feet of the machine after (after about 24 hours or more, it really depends on ambiental factors).<ol><li>Remove the “centering ring”.</li></ol></li><li>make another one.</li><li>last and worst part, expecting silicone to cure (in can go to several days). Cure is not the same has dry…</li></ol><h3>A word to the community</h3>In theory this has all it takes to work out well, but it would be interesting if someone could do a comparative study of this system with others solutions.<h4>Thanks</h4>I would like to thank: <a href="https://www.printables.com/@Retless_1192040" rel="nofollow">Retless</a>, <a href="https://www.printables.com/@drporkchops_1187026" rel="nofollow">drevilporkchops</a> and <a href="https://www.printables.com/@Reckit" rel="nofollow">Reckit </a>for their contribution on this project, and all the other that one way or the other helped on with this.&nbsp;<h3>Change log</h3>(29-08-2023) - enlarged the filling gate hole. <a href="https://www.printables.com/@drporkchops_1187026" rel="nofollow">drevilporkchops</a> reported that can be easier to tape the the filling gate hole and fill with silicon from the top-down.<h4>Support the designer:</h4>This design is free for the benefit of the community, but If you like my designs and want to contribute, you can make a donation to <a href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/designrepcom" rel="nofollow">buymeacoffee </a>or <a href="https://www.paypal.com/donate/?business=BUM67EMDJRXSN&no_recurring=0&currency_code=EUR" rel="nofollow">paypal, </a>or even better, join “My Club” here in printables.com, that will be greatly appreciated.

Vibration Damping For Any 3D Printer and speakers

Hardware tools

edmondha1985

I designed and crafted a convenient waste holder for my wife to use while preparing meals. This holder serves as a practical solution for disposing of vegetable and meat scraps during food preparation, keeping the kitchen clean. &nbsp;This holder is designed to accommodate standard plastic bags commonly found in the market. Its dimensions ensure compatibility with most plastic bags. Additionally, the holder features a design that allows it to hang effortlessly on the bottom cabinet door of a kitchen, with a thickness of 1.5cm (15mm) max. &nbsp;This setup offers convenience and accessibility, making it easy to dispose of kitchen waste without taking up valuable space or requiring additional installation

Trash Bag Holder

Home Tools

squinn

A handy tool to help with soldering, de-soldering, or other tasks where you need a steady third hand.  This is a fully printable design, so no other hardware is required.  The clamping mechanism can be adjusted to accommodate boards up to 20 cm in length, and can be installed facing either direction.&nbsp;All STLs are oriented as they should be for optimum printing, which have been designed with the layer lines in mind to result in a strong print (and no supports or brim should be required).

Adjustable PCB Holder Tool

electronics

Collecticraft

<h2>Echoes of Antiquity: The Heart's Embrace</h2>Step into a realm where classical elegance meets modern symbolism with our latest creation, 'Echoes of Antiquity: The Heart's Embrace'. This masterpiece reimagines the classical Greek sculpture tradition with a contemporary twist.<h3>Key Features:</h3><ul><li>Classical Inspiration: Design in homage to the timeless beauty of sculpture, this piece embodies the grace and sophistication of ancient artistry.</li><li>Modern Symbolism: Within the heart of the sculpture lies a human anatomical heart, suspended in mid-air, symbolizing the intersection of ancient tradition with contemporary themes of love and emotion.</li><li>Mesmerizing Visuals: The juxtaposition of the classical torso and the floating heart creates a captivating visual spectacle that invites contemplation and reflection.</li><li>Evocative Symbolism: 'Echoes of Antiquity: The Heart's Embrace' serves as a powerful symbol of love, passion, and the enduring human spirit, inspiring viewers to delve deeper into the complexities of the human experience.</li></ul>Commercial License: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/CollectiCraft" rel="nofollow noopener">Patrons</a> gain exclusive access to commercial license, enabling them to bring 'Echoes of Antiquity: The Heart's Embrace' into their spaces. Join us on Patreon to unlock this mesmerizing sculpture and add a touch of timeless elegance to your collection. NOTE: Print it only with suggested settings, arachne enabled, don't scale the model, be sure to find the best speed for your bridging settings!<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/567351/2024-02-22_7f774157111b4.jpeg"></figure>

Echoes of Antiquity: The Heart's Embrace

sculptures

Encrust3d

&nbsp;This is a remix of the T. rex skeleton from Makerbot. When I printed this, there were a few things I really did not like about the design, so I made some changes. When I was assembling the skeleton, the ribs could constantly fall out at the slightest touch. The design for some of the ribs had one or two .4mm layers as the clips, which made them break super easily and were very prone to falling out. I reinforced all of the ribs to ensure no glue was needed to keep them in place. Another thing I did not like was how the T. rex was pretty much facing down. I edited the base beam to make the T. rex look up some, while still being able to balance on the base. Here is a before and after picture with the original beam and the beam I redesigned.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/586025/2024-02-17_5b649a52946bf.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/586025/2024-02-17_bc0ab4c8ca9b8.jpg"></figure>This print does need supports on some pieces to print properly. The .3mf I uploaded has supports where needed and support blockers where no support is needed, but the slicer wants to add them anyways. Some glue may still be required to properly connect the neck and tail pieces.&nbsp;Assembly Instructions can be found here:<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/586025/2024-02-25_0ad9c5cfb46f8.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/586025/2024-02-25_c4a4a50471dd2.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/586025/2024-02-25_58cbfb2d6df9d.jpg"></figure>