Titaniumboy

The Master Ball (Japanese: マスターボール Master Ball) is a type of <a target="_blank" href="https://bulbapedia.bulbagarden.net/wiki/Pok%C3%A9_Ball" rel="nofollow noopener">Poké Ball</a> introduced in <a target="_blank" href="https://bulbapedia.bulbagarden.net/wiki/Generation_I" rel="nofollow noopener">Generation I</a>. It can be used to catch a <a target="_blank" href="https://bulbapedia.bulbagarden.net/wiki/Wild_Pok%C3%A9mon" rel="nofollow noopener">wild Pokémon</a> without fail. It was invented by the <a target="_blank" href="https://bulbapedia.bulbagarden.net/wiki/Silph_Co." rel="nofollow noopener">Silph Co.</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;Find Up at the Link below   <figure class="media"></figure>

Master Ball - Pokemon

Pokemon

blecheimer

Hey Wastelander!Do you want to get rich? But collecting bottle caps is taking too long? Wanna get rich fast? Then just download my model and print your own bottle caps! What does this shortcut to riches cost, you might ask? Nothing, it is for free. But leaving a &#34;boost&#34; for an old designer is very much appreciated. ;)&nbsp;This is a Nuka-Cola bottle cap from Fallout. It is designed to be printed with an AMS system in two colours. For best results an 0.2mm nozzle is recommended though it can be printed with an 0.4mm nozzle as well. But the 0.2mm version has a sharper look and the logo does not appear to be so washy. Take a look at the pictures and judge yourself what is better.But wait - do you want a bottle for that cap? No problem, <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/438005" rel="nofollow noopener">here is my Nuka-Cola bottle</a> that perfectly matches the bottle cap.And for the collectors out there, <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/446415" rel="nofollow noopener">here is the Nuka-Cola Quantum bottle &amp; cap</a>.&nbsp;EDIT 2024-04-23: Some users had bed adhesion problems with my 0.4mm print profile. It seems that my first layer setting of 0.1mm height was too aggressive. I changed it back to standard in the print profile. Fingers crossed, that this will help.&nbsp;Print preparation: Make sure that your print bed is clean and grease-free. An unsufficient bed adhesion is in most cases not a problem of the print profile but a cleanliness issue. If you want you can use glue on your print bed but for PLA this should not be necessary. If possible use the smooth textured PEI plate and a bed temperature of 55-60°C. For the print quality it is important that you use a good and calibrated filament. Know your k-factor and use the correct flow setting. Bambu filament makes this step easier but any other quality brand will do the job.&nbsp;Print settings: For a 0.2mm nozzle use the 0.06mm High Quality settings and change the initial layer line width to 0.12mm. Yes, this is smaller than the nozzle but it will work and give you all the fine details. The wall generator should be set to &#34;Arachne&#34;. For the surface patterns I recommend using the concentric version as it has a nice finish. If you want you can reduce the printing speed a little bit to optimze quality. For the same reason I am using a small prime tower.With a 0.4mm nozzle use the 0.12mm Fine settings but set all layer heights after the first layer to 0.1mm. The first layer should stay at 0.2mm height. The initial layer line width must be 0.21mm otherwise the logo will be a mess. The rest is the same as above: Arachne wall generator, concentric surface patterns, slightly reduced speed and a small prime tower.&nbsp;For more detailed print settings take a look at my print profiles. The print profiles can be used with A1, P1 and X1 printers. And now go and print yourself a fortune before the brotherhood finds out!&nbsp;If you want to support me you can leave a tip at <a target="_blank" href="https://ko-fi.com/blecheimer" rel="nofollow noopener">ko-fi.com/blecheimer</a>.&nbsp;&nbsp;Disclaimer: This work by blecheimer is licensed under <a target="_blank" href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/" rel="nofollow noopener">CC-BY-NC-ND 4.0</a>. The shown model is fanart and must not be used commercially. Copying this model to other 3D printing websites is not allowed without my permission.

Nuka-Cola Bottle Cap (from Fallout) 

fallout

Ciuf_Ciuf

<h2>General description</h2>After the great success of the drainage project, I am proposing a simpler and more intuitive version, especially for new users and beginners who are approaching the world of multicolor.&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/54909#profileId-56456" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/54909#profileId-56456</a>&nbsp;The basic purpose is always to minimize purging material as much as possible to save on color changes and drastically reduce the amount of discarded materialI have decided to update the model and make it more user-friendlyThe basic idea was to make it a standard Bambulab Calibration, similar to the K calibrationSo, lines with numbers to instantly identify which value is the most accurate to assign to the purging of the respective materialBeing a test, it must be as economical as possible, so a test strip requires only 2 grams&nbsp;I'm leaving you the video of a guy who explains in detail how to use this type of calibrationI thank him for considering my project for the creation of a video on YouTube, and I'm pleased that I've shared his video<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FP3CwBX6A4I"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/FP3CwBX6A4I" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure><h3> </h3><h3>Pre-print Procedure</h3>*Edit 03-01-2024*&nbsp;From one of the various print profiles you download, you'll need to set the color combination you desire<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:47.04%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/624812/2024-01-03_36c2f25737bbb.png"></figure>In my case, I'm calibrating these purge combinations, and the model will result like this<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:36.6%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/624812/2024-01-03_e5017ae8f46d08.png"></figure>If you want to change the color combination, simply use a different type of filament<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:37.2%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/624812/2024-01-03_a174ecda4566d.png"></figure>and the print profile will adapt to the combination you have set, as in this case<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:37.37%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/624812/2024-01-03_f1abfb2fe5f0a8.png"></figure>The model will update in real-time, allowing you to see immediately which color you are changingI've implemented additional print profiles to significantly streamline the procedure.While the process can be fast for those with a single AMS, it might be quite lengthy for those with multiple using the previous print profiles.With these new print profiles, there is also increased compatibility for the A1 Mini model.&nbsp;The idea of implementing the print profiles in this new way was suggested by Michael when he uploaded his print profile for the V1 model. I'll leave you the link to his Makerword channel (<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/2954682459" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/u/2954682459</a>)&nbsp;As on the previous model, it is necessary to reduce the purging material to allow us to calculate the material quantity adequately.The only significant difference is that this time we set all purging quantities to 0On the dual-object print profile, you can also do it manually.However, on the other print profiles, if you want to expedite the process, you can set the multiplier to 0, instantly reducing the purge to 0<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:35.51%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/624812/2023-12-29_f161c5ce7c0868.png"></figure>Now you can start the printing process&nbsp;Note: Do not touch any other parameters I've set, or the colors won't be printed in the correct order<h3>Calibration reading</h3>After completing the print, for calibrating the K factor, we need to read and determine the most accurate value to set as the purging quantityWhat you will find in front of you will be this<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:46.93%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/624812/2023-12-29_02e09355d1abf8.jpg"></figure>As you can see inside the two green rectangles, that is the exact moment when the material is purged, and the next color takes over.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:46.78%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/624812/2023-12-29_617da72c674e78.jpg"></figure>At this point, all that's left is to identify the correct value and set the purging quantity for that specific color changeFor these tests, it's highlighted that 150mm^3 of material is required to perform the color change<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:46.33%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/624812/2023-12-29_e9817c7179a71.jpg"></figure>In this specific case, the quantity is identical for both color changes, but for other combinations, it may varyAs you can see, the difference between the default values of Bambustudio and the ones just found is significantly lower.This allows us to reduce material waste and significantly cut down on print times, decreasing the time the printer takes to change the filament<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:35.41%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/624812/2023-12-29_a67e103190684.png"><figcaption>BEFORE</figcaption></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:35.53%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/624812/2023-12-29_ab83cab72d7d18.png"><figcaption>AFTER</figcaption></figure>&nbsp;

AMS Purge Calibration V2

bambu upgrades

NC-Designs

Ever feeling indecisive about where to eat? Find yourself in a “no, where do YOU want to eat” battle with your spouse? Meet the Dinner Spinner!&nbsp;&nbsp;Make My Sign Info&nbsp;This model is powered by Make My Sign from MakerWorld (www.makerworld.com/en/makerlab/MakeMySign). Using Make My Sign and their SVG import tool, anyone can create additional logos or custom text for things like chores, activities, date night, games to play, etc. Most of the SVGs for the restaurants shown came from either <a target="_blank" href="https://worldvectorlogo.com/" rel="nofollow noopener">https://worldvectorlogo.com/</a> or <a target="_blank" href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:SVG_logos_of_fast_food_restaurants#." rel="nofollow noopener">https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:SVG_logos_of_fast_food_restaurants#.</a>&nbsp;To create your own logos or custom pieces to fit in the box, use the following settings in Make My Sign (these settings will minimize the amount of color changes as well):<ul><li>50mm x 50mm Shape</li><li>10mm Corner Radius</li><li>Medium Border with 0mm Offset</li><li>Thicknesses:<ul><li>Base Plate - 1mm</li><li>Text & Sticker - 0.2mm</li><li>SVG - 0.2mm</li><li>Shapes - 0.2mm</li></ul></li></ul>When you download a custom piece, I recommend downloading the 3MF file as it makes coloring much easier (don't color by face but color by part under the “Objects” tab instead). There are also some tricks I learned like using “Negative Part” type and deleting overlapping parts that come with the SVG to get the exact coloring you want.&nbsp;Assembly Instructions&nbsp;Each of the logos snap into place in the back of the dinner spinner. I recommend either:<ul><li>Printing all pieces except the logos, then one logo, and then scale the logo in ~0.1% increments until you get the fit you want. Then print the rest of the logos at the same scale.</li><li>Printing the logos you want and then the fitment test piece. Depending on that fitment you can adjust the scale in ~0.1% increments until you get the fit you want. Then scale the dinner spinner, spinner, spinner axis, and optional backing plate the same amount.</li></ul>There are spots for two 5mm x 2mm thick magnets (<a target="_blank" href="https://a.co/d/8JerZ9a" rel="nofollow noopener">https://a.co/d/8JerZ9a</a>) to be glued in each corner for putting it on the fridge. I ended up adding a third magnet to each corner that sticks out a little bit to make it more secure to the fridge.&nbsp;There is also an optional backing plate that has a cutout for mounting to a wall if wanted.&nbsp;&nbsp;Thanks for viewing, downloading, rating, etc. Any feedback is welcome!&nbsp;&nbsp;

The Dinner Spinner (20+ Logos Included)

fun prints

Brandon Raineri

<h2>Background</h2>Its a funnel for a Whirlpool dishwasher for when filling the Rinse Aid/Jet Dry tank. May work for other brands but haven't confirmed myself. Has an opening that snaps onto the bottle neck for easy storage.<h2>Printing Instructions</h2><ul><li>Best printed out of PETG so the print can flex and snap onto the bottle neck for storage</li><li>Printed at 0.2mm layer height</li><li>10 contours/perimeters for added strength when snapping around neck</li><li>Lower maximum volumetric speed to 4mm^3/s to prevent warpage due to lack of cooling</li></ul>

Pokemon

fallout

bambu upgrades

fun prints

appliance stuff