Tieya

UniDuni3d

I have my notebook on my desk setup, but weekly I need to use it on other places.&nbsp;I cound&#39;t find an easy and fast way to organize the cables down the desk, so I designed this one!&nbsp;Hope it helps you too!

Under Desk Cable organizer! Fast fix/removal

organizer

Josh-3D

[Intro]I would like to introduce to you my fancy Scifi Box! Or crate? Treasure chest? Do I need to model some gold coins for you to fill this thing up with? Hehe.&nbsp;I wanted to produce a crate of sorts that'd be larger than the print volume, but assembled in a way that it didn't feel like it was just a model chopped up to fit into a printer's build volume. This is the results of those efforts. Part of my goal with this too was to make it easy to print, have cool styling, and have some sort of latch/locking mechanism (although it is primitive, it is still cool). For bonus points, I made it stackable!&nbsp;[What you'll need]&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:37.91%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/683999/2024-02-09_b6ff735a9db58.png"></figure>Tools:Hex Driver #3 & #2.5Drill bits for clearing out holesFile for cleaning up edges where berm is used, or whatever tool you like for that job.&nbsp;Hardware:16 M4 Nuts (Used for connecting the End Caps, Ends, And Mid section together. 8 M4x25 (Used to connect the Ends to the Mid section) 2 M4x30 (Used for the hinge) 2 M3x5 (Used on the Lock. You can Use M3x6 screws, but don't over tighten them, as it'll push through and show on the front) 14 M4x10 (6 for the Lock, and 8 are used to connect the End Caps to the Ends)&nbsp;Filament I used: (For reference! Use the colors you see fit!)Mid - Bambu PLA Iridium Gold MetallicEnds - Bambu PLA Matte CharcoalHardware - Bambu PLA Basic Bronze   [Getting ready to print]You're going to need about 2kg of filament for this case. It'll be about 1kg for the ends, and a little less for the mid/lid section. I modeled everything to be relatively easy to print, but they're still big full plate models, so make sure you've got things like warping under control (On the P1/X1 for example, turning off the aux fan!), that your bed is super clean, and yeah. These are big prints, so let's check ourselves before we wreck ourselves, because a failed print here can be costly.&nbsp;There is a little post processing that should be done with the models once they're off the build plate. Holes will need to be cleared for where the screws go, as I modeled a flat plane in place to help keep them clean. Additionally, on the lid, you'll want to make sure a screw can insert into the hole freely, and use a drill to clear it out if need be.&nbsp;[Assembly]Let's get to it, shall we? We'll start with the lid. Make sure a m4 sized screw will fit freely into the hole. We don't want it super loose, but we shouldn't have to screw it in. <figure class="image image_resized" style="width:55.37%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/683999/2024-02-10_c9999fe6e110c.png"></figure>Next, we'll assemble the lock mechanism. Two M3x5mm screws are used as stops for turning the lock. You can use 6mm length screws, but be careful not to put them in too far, as it'll push out and blemish the front surface of the lid. For everything else, use M4x10mm screws.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:55.83%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/683999/2024-02-10_41aad9dca556f.png"></figure>Now it's time for the body.&nbsp;1. Clear out the holes using a drill, so the screw can pass freely through.  (Planes were modeled in to help support the screw holes during printing)2. Inset 8 M4 nuts on either side of the mid section into the slots. &nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:55.28%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/683999/2024-02-10_f1141dd059fd4.png"></figure>(Keep in mind these drawings show the assembly of one side, but both sides should be done at the same time)3. Make sure you clear out the holes with a drill bit, like we did in Step 1 for the main body.4. Now, we'll use M4x25mm screws to attach the ends to the main body. Do this for both sides.5. For the hinge, we'll use a M4x30mm screw, or longer. These are just pushed in, and to hold them in completely, we'll insert a plug/dowl to help keep them in place. Before you put the screw/dowl in for the lid, position the lid in place (This step is not pictured!). Make sure you're happy with the fit of everything before you secure the lid, as once you get the screws and plugs/dowls in, it'll be difficult to remove them.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:59.3%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/683999/2024-02-10_0b45c572681a.png"></figure>6. The lid should be installed at this point, with both ends installed. From here we'll attach the end caps. Firstly we'll insert 4 M4 nuts on each end.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:58.99%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/683999/2024-02-10_e51dd47e5aea7.png"></figure>7. We'll use 4 M4x10mm screws on each side, screwed into the holes inset into the bigger holes! Once we have all of those in, we'll cover them up with the end plugs. The slot in the plugs is sized to work best with a coin. <figure class="image image_resized" style="width:60.06%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/683999/2024-02-10_35cdd6dea4d61.png"></figure>That's it! Enjoy!&nbsp;-------If you like my work, consider showing your love by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/josh3d" rel="nofollow noopener">Buying me a coffee</a>. Additionally, if you're looking to sell prints of my design, please check out my <a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/josh3d/" rel="nofollow noopener">Patreon</a> page for more information.

Scifi Crate

cool stuff

Downhill_Solutions

<h2>Here is my Poop Pop Stop V2.1! (is also working on X1C now)</h2><h2>Update: 09.Jan.2024:</h2>- I got enough feedback to say it will now also work on X1C!- the front outer wall are now shorter and thinner, no more Z-Homing error- PTFE Cutting tool with fixing clamp for perfect hose length- Optimized tree-supports <figure class="image image_resized" style="width:63.37%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/436088/2024-01-09_72b3fa75e3ea.jpg"></figure>Notice:The Heatbed has play in the X and Y axes, you can see the GIF. If you have to less space between the Poop Pop Stop and the Heatbed, it can help to pull the bed carefully toward the front door to add some space.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:46.71%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/436088/2024-01-09_382c00cd274ba.gif"></figure><h2>PTFE Cutting Tool:</h2><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:41.61%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/436088/2024-01-09_6556d0a830b0b.jpeg"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:47%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/436088/2024-01-09_6fdda886fc02.jpeg"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:41.35%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/436088/2024-01-09_bf1bfb070340b.jpeg"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:45.41%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/436088/2024-01-09_7bbc6f3b0570c.jpeg"></figure><h3>For the perfect fit and quality like mine, do only use my uploaded printing-profile and ABS filament!</h3> The Problem at my prints was, that the Poop was pulled out of the <a target="_blank" href="https://eu.store.bambulab.com/de/collections/accessories-for-p1-series/products/purge-chute" rel="nofollow noopener">Purge Chute</a> at every filament change:<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:611.234px;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/436088/2023-12-21_a9b5c2be80bca.jpeg"></figure> The Solution is my Poop Pop Stop, it lets the nozzle change the filament without problems, and hold the filament waste back in the purge chute:<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:53%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/436088/2024-01-07_62ff672b725c2.jpg"></figure><h2>The new Version V2.0 is a complete new design of the <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/102462#profileId-109116" rel="nofollow noopener">old Version</a> and contins the following changes:</h2>- the bottom layer and the print position are complete new designed without the level change for better print and look.- the poop stop area is now designed with PTFE hoses (you need them seperatly - i used the bambulab spare tubes) against sticking with print filament on the Poop Pop Stop itself.- the poop stop area use now a U-Cut instead of the V-Cut version- the thin front bridge is now stabilized with a vertical wall on the outside of the purge chute.- i added some cutouts in the washing area for the nozzle- the hole at the washing area for the nozzle is now bigger&nbsp;&nbsp;<h2>I tested the new design with a few printing-cubes with arround 50 filament changes and out of different materials (PLA / PETG / ABS), there was no problems on every material at my P1S:</h2><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/436088/2024-01-07_f764cad86e401.gif"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/436088/2024-01-07_7542cf135e9a1.jpeg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/436088/2024-01-07_139fc6ebcdd46.jpeg"></figure><h2>IMPORTANT: This new Version needs some difficult work-steps:</h2>- remove the Support carefully with a knife untill you got a clean surface in this areas- slit the PTFE-hoses lengthwise (only no.2/3/4) , don't slit no.1!- press the tubes in the numbered order on the single part (no.2 you have to press it from the bottom side and turn it carefully onto the round bridge)-after the install of the hoses no.2-no.4, cut it off just to the surface of the component-Cut a radius on the end of the pipe no.1 as shown in the picture (make shure you got a Gap between the hoses arround 1-2mm, if not recut no.1 until the gap is big enough or bend it a little bit) Please do all the steps carfully and check your result for looking the same as my Poop Stop in the pictures!<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:51.96%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/436088/2024-01-07_241a0ab6f3704.jpeg"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:51.97%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/436088/2024-01-09_86dc94b441b87.jpeg"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:51.36%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/436088/2024-01-09_a9ab89056c62b.jpeg"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:51.46%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/436088/2024-01-07_484e5a68d15d7.jpeg"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:51.35%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/436088/2024-01-07_510df216c2b21.jpeg"></figure>&nbsp;<h2>Please give me feedback! :)</h2>

Poop Pop Stop V2.1 - for P1S / P1P / X1C (UPGRADE 09.01.2024)

dangles_

Pop/Soda Can dispenser for use inside or outside your fridge. Holds 11 standard US sized cans and automatically pushes the next can to the front. Willing to make adjustments for other sized cans, just comment what you want and I'll make it happen. &nbsp;Dimensions: 420mm x 130mm x 162mm (LWH) 16.5in x 5.12in x 6.38in (LWH)

Pop Can Dispenser 

fridge

MerryPrinter

This is a “clean look” PTFE support for your top mounted AMS lite! You can rotate printed leters for your best fit in object settings.Originally printed with PETG.&nbsp;&nbsp;

organizer

cool stuff

p1s

fridge

A1 stuff