ThisJustn

dalet11

This is a dashboard part for Chevrolet Sonic 2011-2016 / Aveo T300 (in some countries).<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:48.15%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/254668/2023-12-10_cf13f7bd8b1be.png"></figure>&nbsp;This is my first attempt with Fusion 360, fitting is ok but not as perfect as the original part.&nbsp;f3d & step files included, feel free to improve.&nbsp;This print requires ABS or preferred ASA to hold up since the car can get hot and melt the part.PETG can also work, I tested myself with high quality one and it holds OK.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

Chevrolet sonic - Dashboard part

sonic

HrvL3D

Flash Logo from DC Comics&nbsp;AMS required Material PLA & Engineering plate & 0.4 noozle Printed with OrcaSlicer&nbsp;Assembly: Flat Countersunk Head Socket Screws M5 x 15mm

Flash dc logo -  Multi Color AMS

superhero

3D Prints This Week

If you shrink down for the a1 mini, keep the “Z” at 100% or it will be too thin.&nbsp;Load Black, purple, Lite Gray, and White into AMS.&nbsp;If you don't have ams&nbsp;Swap Instructions:Start with BlackAt layer #7 (0.64mm) swap to PurpleAt layer #12 (1.04mm) swap to Lite GrayAt layer #18 (1.52mm) swap to White for the rest.

Donatello / TMNT / Ninja Turtle / Wall Art /

tmnt

thrutheframe

<h3>INTRODUCTION</h3>When designing the poop management system (PMS), one of the ideas was to attach a bin/basket on the end of the cantilever x-axis. But based on experience with cantilever printers, it is never a good idea to hang a bin/basket at the extreme end of the X-axis extrusion, regardless of how robust the Z-axis linear rail is.&nbsp;I was not entirely right. While hanging a bin/basket at the end of the cantilever was never a good idea, attaching a lightweight guide/baffle is a freaking good idea. I look at the designs by others and CAD what I think is a combination of what was good. Together with a shorter bin, I added Option 3 - Short Bin with Purge Guide for my <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/15603#profileId-15023" rel="nofollow noopener">PMS system</a>.&nbsp;What I did:<ul><li>Set an angle of 15 degrees for the deflection of the purge.</li><li>Added a side wall to prevent any stray purge from deflecting in the wrong direction.</li><li>Single part, no support, print flat and simple to print.</li></ul>&nbsp;<h3>CREDIT</h3>Thank you 3ddesign and jayburd for the inspiration. &nbsp;<h3>INSTRUCTION</h3>Paste a piece of tape over the area as shown in the image below. During purging, the tip of the purge can still be molten and can accidentally adhere to the wall. The tape helps to reduce the chance of this happening.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:60%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/200469/2023-11-24_9f22dcecbc243.png"></figure>Install image<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:59.97%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/200469/2023-11-24_6724c482cd6c7.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;<h3>CONCLUSION</h3>To date, my designs are free to download and use. There is no Patreon or OnlyFan (hahaha). If you like my designs and wish to contribute to my coffee addiction & help fund the filaments and materials needed for prototyping, a donation of $5-$10 to <a target="_blank" href="https://ko-fi.com/thrutheframe" rel="nofollow noopener">Ko-fi</a> or <a target="_blank" href="https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/shannonheng" rel="nofollow noopener">paypal.me</a> will be greatly appreciated.&nbsp;<h3>CAVEAT</h3>As with all my designs, Prototyping and testing were conducted to ensure printability and meet my own expectations. However, I understand it may and may not work for you. I would request that you read all instructions and print and install them at your own discretion.

Bambu Lab A1 mini Purge Guide, Baffle, Deflector 

DeltaFuzz

Wife decided she wanted a LED Lightbox of a little Christmas snack cake…. and so it was done.

Little Christmas Snack Cake Lightbox

Christmas

nikola

<h3>Pixel Board</h3><figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-center" style="width:100%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/96773/2023-09-22_lon3dtlzddwb.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Changes:&nbsp;2023-10-15: Fixed the case which had incosistent edge.&nbsp;___&nbsp;&nbsp;PixelBoard is, as the name implies, a board that you can put 3D printed small squares aka “pixels” in and use it as a decorative piece, the board is 24 pixels wide and 12 pixels tall. The compact overall design fits on pretty much every printer, including Prusa Mini. If you're wondering what kind of designs can be made with pixels and a board of this size, scroll down to the bottom for some design examples.I recently found a similar model to this, and I noticed it had a few design flaws - but due to its licensing which didn't allow any modifications (remixes), I couldn't make any improvements to it - so I made an entirely new project from scratch over the weekend, and you can remix, share, and adapt it in any way you want - STEP files are included as well!&nbsp;Since it's literally designed over the weekend and not used over a longer period, if you have any improvement suggestions, feel free to make a remix or to comment.&nbsp;It's designed from the ground up for FDM printing, no supports, or anything similar required. It makes (optional, but recommended) use of 6x3mm magnets to hold the board firmly in the case, and the case itself doubles as a storage - and can hold more than 4 times the number of pixels required to fill the entire board, all in 4 different compartments, so you don't have to search through piles of different pixels to find the color you want.&nbsp;I have printed all the files on my X1C using generic 0.2mm settings with different filaments I had lying around, but please before you print everything at once, see below for print instructions and fit test models.&nbsp;<h3>Required materials:</h3>&nbsp;<ul><li>Optional: four 6x3mm magnets. These will hold the board extremely well in place, so much so that I had to design a push pin to push the board from the back, this is ideal since the box doubles as storage, and you don't want to have 1000+ pins accidentally drop on the floor.</li><li>3D Printer with at least 165mm bed size width - Prusa Mini can fit and print this.</li></ul><h4> </h4><h4> </h4><h4>Parts and print settings</h4><h4> </h4><h4>Board</h4><figure class="image image-style-align-center"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/96773/2023-09-22_79e71rpcqru4.jpg"></figure><h4> </h4>The board is printed using default settings of 0.2mm or lower, but there is no significant benefit of printing lower than 0.2. It requires no additional settings or anything else. Just make sure you're printing this with a dry filament to avoid any stringing which may lead to pixels not fitting quite well afterward.<h4>Pins</h4><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/96773/2023-09-22_fx9bx521pug5.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;The Pins are all 5x5mm for the cube part, as the tolerances for this are built into the board directly, but the diameter of the cylinder part may vary from printer to printer, and based on what kind of fit you want. I've included the pins with the cylinder at the following diameters: 5.00mm, 4.98mm, 4.96mm, 4.94mm, 4.92mm, and 4.90mm. They all have the size in their name Pin500 is Pin with a diameter of 5.00mm, Pin492 with diameter of 4.92mm, and so on.You need 288 pins to fill the whole board, I've included files with 298 pins to have some spare. If your printer bed adhesion isn't that reliable, I'd recommend printing in smaller batches instead of everything at once.&nbsp;You can print these in 0.2mm layer heights as well. No brim is required, and if you use it then it might be difficult to remove afterward.So, how do you know which pin size to print?&nbsp;<h4>Fit Test Files</h4><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/96773/2023-09-22_jjvpqn24uwh2.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;I've included a small 3x3 test board, print this, and all different pins and see which one fits best. If none of the pins fit, then you can, of course, use the scale feature of the slicer to adjust it, or modify the step files, but it means that your printer isn't quite accurate enough and this may lead to other issues as well. Use the same filament and same settings that you will use later on.For me personally, Pin498 fits the best.<h4>Case</h4><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/96773/2023-09-22_qendaq3orl0u.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;The case requires no supports and is designed to be printed this way. You can use any layer height that you want. 0.2 layer height produces nice results, and especially with some sanding, can be pretty. There are no major structural demands here, other than the magnets that are held in place. &nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/96773/2023-09-22_fwumhu5dey4w.png"></figure>Magnets/PushPin&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/96773/2023-09-22_7tw888ogds6s.jpg"></figure>If you decide to use magnets, you can put them in the side of the case, as well as the board, so they hold when the board is in place. There should be enough clearance to do a simple press fit for the magnets, bit if they keep falling out just add a drop of superglue.&nbsp;However, these magnets can be pretty strong, and getting the board out - when it's full of pins, can be very difficult, so I've designed a pin that goes from the front of the case to the back - make sure to put this in BEFORE you put the board in. The pins are pretty small, only 5 mm and barely noticeable, due to the small size, you'll need something to push them in from the back. If you don't want to deal with that, and you don't mind compromising on the design, there's also a long push pin version, this will stick out on the back 20mm and allow you to push it with your finger easily. Print both and try it out.The pins can be printed either way, and you don't need infill for them - 2 or 3 walls should do the trick.I printed mine in this orientation, so I get a smoother back-side finish. But this is up to you and how well your bed adhesion is. You can use brim on this to ensure it prints properly.<figure class="image image-style-align-center"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/96773/2023-09-22_wfahmznx9v0y.png"></figure>&nbsp;<h3>Assembly</h3>&nbsp;The assembly is pretty straightforward:&nbsp;<ul><li>Put the push pin in the case so you don't forget it.</li><li>Add magnets to the case and the board - make sure to orient them correctly</li><li>Done</li></ul>&nbsp;<h3>Design examples</h3>Besides the example image above, there are numerous designs that fit on a 24x12 board, here are some examples - and often you can even fit two of these on the board, or scale them down/up as you wish, as they don't use the entire space by themselves&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/96773/2023-09-22_kfdej6cryrvf.png"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/96773/2023-09-22_skdiiybul83w.png"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/96773/2023-09-22_pmm1qbz5sn0m.png"></figure>These screenshots come from <a target="_blank" href="https://www.brik.co/pages/gallery-search?q.size.height.min&q.size.height.max=12&q.size.width.max=24&q.size.width.min" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.brik.co/pages/gallery-search?q.size.height.min&q.size.height.max=12&q.size.width.max=24&q.size.width.min</a>&nbsp;

Pixel Board

Office

ShakaStudio

&nbsp;Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.16mm with a base layer of 0.24mmFilaments Used: PLA+ Creality CR Black Transmission Distance: 0.5 PLA+ IIID Max Night Gray Transmission Distance: 0.8 PLA+ Creality Orange Fluorescent Transmission Distance: 3.6 PLA+ JAYO Meta White Transmission Distance: 6Swap Instructions: Start with Black At layer #5 (0.88mm) swap to Night Gray At layer #6 (1.04mm) swap to Orange Fluorescent At layer #10 (1.68mm) swap to White for the rest.

Halloween Mansion - 4 Color Hueforge Filament Painting

Halloween

Bambu Lab

<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000013716/design/2023-09-25_28088e30b1c02.jpg"></figure>This 3D-printed mouse has a futuristic hollow shell design, revealing its internal structure. This generative design shell structure is possible only with 3D printing. Our industrial designer fully utilized the advantages of a 3D printed structure to present you with this magnificently artful mouse.&nbsp;Recommended filaments: Bambu PLA series<a target="_blank" href="https://store.bambulab.com/collections/bambu-lab-3d-printer-filament?gf_60645=279355719795" rel="nofollow noopener">https://store.bambulab.com/collections/bambu-lab-3d-printer-filament</a>If using PLA matte, metal, silk, please slowly screw in the bolt and avoid over-tightening to prevent structural damage.Print Setting: Print without support, v2.0 print profile recommendedHardware Kit: Wireless Mouse Components Kit-002<a target="_blank" href="http://store.bambulab.com/products/wireless-mouse-components-kit-002" rel="nofollow noopener">http://store.bambulab.com/products/wireless-mouse-components-kit-002</a>&nbsp;Please make sure you clean the build plate before printing and/or applying glue to prevent print failures.&nbsp;Follow the Assembly Guide or video tutorial below step by step to print and assemble your build. Refer to the Design Guide for further design and quality enhancement.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000013716/design/2023-09-15_12b653452832c.png"></figure><figure class="media"><oembed url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lkOg_X4qjW8"></oembed></figure>