Supernovaxo

_donkey-brains_

One mace to rule them all?&nbsp;While there are a few adaptations of Sauron&#39;s mace scattered around the internet, I didn&#39;t necessary feel those were complete (no patterning), nor were they optimized well enough for printing and assembly (required internal structuring; a lot of post-processing). Therefore, I set out to model my own version from scratch that satisfied my own desired for a show piece. What I have here is a model designed entirely my me in fusion. I hope you enjoy it.&nbsp;This model consists of 21 pieces and 8 connectors to create a model that is ~46 inches long and can weigh upwards of 2kg. &nbsp;Printing Tips<ol><li>For my own print, I went with a silk filament because I hate post processing. While some parts can probably be printed flat, I have designed them to all be printed vertically. If using silk pla, I highly suggest to print all parts in the same orientation as that will give the best looking outcome. </li><li>I only own a P1S and have optimized this to print using most of the vertical space of that sized printer. If you have a smaller printer, I do apologize, but there are likely some spots where you can use the slicer to make parts smaller.</li><li>Any support I used were slim tree supports. I have uploaded my print profiles that I used which include manual tree supports. Threads, pattering, and small overhangs (like the handle rings) should not require any support. </li><li>I highly suggest to print the longer thread of the Lower Handle (Upper) piece facing up. This piece will be a weak point as it connects the lower handle to the rest of the mace. If that thread is printed down it will be supported and will be a weaker junction. I also suggest to use multiple bottom and top layers so this piece is strong.</li><li>Because the blades are optimized to be printed vertically, they have the pegs that will require support. Be sure to clean these supports well as the pegs being too large may effect final fitment. </li><li>Silk filament can give weird banding when cooling rate are different, so, if using silk filament, it may be a good idea to print each piece separately. This is what I did to ensure good consistency in the finish.</li><li>This print can probably use anywhere from 1kg all the way to 2kg of filament. Regardless, I highly suggest to make the lower handle sections either much more robust than the upper or, ideally, fully walled. My print profiles would culminate in a mace that weights about 1.7kg. </li></ol>Assembly Tips<ol><li>Assembly should be rather straight forward. I have attached pictures of the fusion model exploded into sections so as to be able to follow how to assemble. I suggest to assemble from the bottom to the top. I also suggest doing each section as a dry fitment before gluing everything together. After gluing any section, I suggest letting it cure for 24 hours before gluing attaching sections. </li><li>The threading has been given an ample offset, so these pieces should thread together easily. Thread each of the them together in the correct order dry and them take them apart and add a few drops of CA glue to the threads. Let these cure overnight. </li><li>For the upper handle section, Use the connector and CA glue to put the lower and upper sections together. Let cure 24 hours. </li><li>After both the lower and upper handle sections have cured, screw the lower handle section into the upper handle section. Use CA glue to bind these permanently. This will be a weakest point on the mace, so be careful. </li><li>Connect the upper and lower pike pieces using the large connector and CA glue. Let these cure 24 hours.</li><li>Using the smaller connector, connect the handle to the pike section. Fit this up with CA glue and let cure.</li><li>Dry fit each of the upper and lower blade sections into their respective positions in the pike. If these don&#39;t go in with no more than a little effort, ensure all support material has been removed. For blade assembly what worked best for me was:<ol><li>Add few drops of CA glue into each of the pike holes</li><li>Glue the blade connector into the bottom blade</li><li>Add glue to the top of the connector and place the top blade onto the lower blade and connector (this should give a few seconds to pull them apart when placing them into the pike holes). </li><li>Place the lower blade partway in to its pike hole</li><li>Place the upper blade partway into its pike hole</li><li>Press both the lower and upper blades all the way into their holes--this may require some wiggling and effort</li><li>Hold the upper and lower sections together vertically while pressing the entire thing toward the pike. Hold this for several seconds until glue sets. Then let cure fully before moving on to the next blade.</li></ol></li></ol>&nbsp;&nbsp;

Sauron's Mace

maximdivirgilio

M9 Bayonet 1:1 Scale Model (Counterstrike)&nbsp;Available for both single color and multicolor printing&nbsp;Multicolor prints have minimal color changes&nbsp;The single color blade necessitates very slow printing speed as well as the use of a brim. If possible to do a single manual color change, I'd advise going that route. &nbsp;&nbsp;

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