Street Fighter

FLOWERS GEAR

FLOWERS+GEAR  VASE  /  情人节- 告白花器

☆GESCHENKE☆

BrandedAbstract3D

I just wanted to drop you a quick note of thanks and share a link to the creator that inspired this phone holder. The incredible <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/@StepanK" rel="nofollow noopener">@StepanK</a> here on Maker World. Your original creation sparked some creativity on my end, and I ended up doing a simple remix of it. Go checkout all of his new Maker World creations. His work has been a fantastic source of inspiration, and I&#39;m happy to honour that by sharing what I&#39;ve come up with. Thanks again for sharing your creativity with the world.&nbsp;Wanna Sell This and Other Items? Check out my Patreon for a commercial license. <a href="patreon.com/BrandedAbstract3D" rel="nofollow">patreon.com/BrandedAbstract3D</a>&nbsp;Phone holder designed to resemble a Recaro Racing Seat, unique and functional, great for any space. It&#39;s a top conversation starter for anyone who loves cars. Always adds a touch of car scene to your surroundings.&nbsp;To complete the phone holder you&#39;ll need:<ul><li>1 x Seat (printable)</li><li>1 x Roll Cage (printable)</li><li>2 x Support Struts (printable)</li><li>8 x M3 Screws</li></ul><h3>Print Settings</h3>I usually go for the BBL “Standard” 0.20mm settings. It seems to strike the right balance between quality and speed compared to other profiles. I&#39;m a fan of the consistent layer height of 0.2mm, but variable layer height is good too! Feel free to play around with the print quality settings to see what works best for you. I&#39;ve had success with BBL Filaments and various other brands, but for Silk PLA, slowing down the outer walls to around 50mm/s seems best.&nbsp;<ul><li>Seat: Use a 10% grid infill—it&#39;s sturdy enough to hold a phone. I used to two bottom shell layers; once the support struts are fitted, the seat base doesn’t touch the tabletop. And, I set the seam position to “back”. I’ve found it looks more intentional, and you kind of forget it’s there!</li><li>Roll Cage: A 0% infill will save print time and is still pretty strong, even for two perimeters.</li><li>Support Struts: Use a 15% grid infill. This part is mostly top and bottom shell layers, but a good scaffold is needed for the top layers to build on. Important: set the top surface to 50mm/s for a smoother finish! You could turn on ironing, but I prefer seeing some industrial layer lines.</li></ul><h3>Assembly</h3>Assembly is a breeze! You&#39;ll get it from just looking at the photos. Insert the M3 screws into the holes and tighten all parts together. Avoid screws longer than 10mm to prevent them from sticking out of the holes in the roll cage. It won’t break anything, but you’ll see the backs of them protruding.&nbsp;Happy Printing!&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/ba3d" rel="nofollow noopener">Buy Me A Coffee</a> ☕(Appreciated but absolutely not required)

Recaro Racing Seat Phone Holder

☆MODELLBAU☆

Imaginarydave

<h2>Designing this took weeks of work and testing.   Your boosts are an appreciated form of thanks </h2>&nbsp;Update: I added a mirrored version of the bases and the manifold for those that want to mounth this somewhere other than on the printer or for those with a k1 max.&nbsp;Update #2: Enclosure file is up! check it out over at. <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/105490#profileId-112584" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/105490#profileId-112584</a><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000089050/design/2023-12-23_b2f1da0f06987.jpg">Update 3: changed print profile to use glued dowels to hold the two parts together.  I think this will sove the most common problem of getting things to line up.  &nbsp;This solved my biggest beef with day to day use of the printer……. changing filaments. &nbsp; I had a few goals.<ol><li>Be able to load filaments from the front.</li><li>Be able to leave my regularly used filaments in place</li><li>Have a place to hold filament when not in use to keep it from unrolling (you cant see it but there is holder behind each loading spot on the manifold.</li><li>be quiet - ie no rubbing.</li></ol>You&#39;re gonna need a few parts<ul><li>I used 4mm OD, 3mm ID PTFE tube to try to reduce friction. I ordered this stuff. <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/46UgvDl" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/46UgvDl</a> (bambu labs 4mm/2.5mm should work but you will definitely need to bevel entry points.)</li><li>PTFE tube connector. I used the Bambu labs one <a target="_blank" href="https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/ptfe-tube-connector" rel="nofollow noopener">https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/ptfe-tube-connector</a> you could also use one of these from amazon <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/3RLyR5f" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/3RLyR5f</a> . alternatively you could use a single piece of tubing that runs all the way from the extruder to the manifold but I wanted the option to disconnect at the machine.</li><li>8mm x300mm rod. <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/3RAq5qj" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/3RAq5qj</a> alternative link: https://amzn.to/47hFPmF</li><li>M10 push connector for PTFE tubing. I used these <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/3TcCwKm" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/3TcCwKm</a></li><li>M3 Heat set threaded inserts. I used ones from this kit. <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/4a8hv9L" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/4a8hv9L</a> but you could just buy M3 size which is the size I use the most for projects like these. <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/3NksT8C" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/3NksT8C</a></li><li>Sixteen 608-zz bearings. I use these. <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/4afBenR" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/4afBenR</a></li><li>M3 screws. I think I used mostly 10mm, but if you dont have a huge assortment of these already you should so get a variety and figure it out!</li><li>nylon washers I used ones from this kit. <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/41hQDQz" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/41hQDQz</a> 1.5mm thick. but I will also include an .stl file. you should be able to print them.</li><li>I used non slip glass top pads that I had around the house to keep it from sliding around. I am sure many different things could be used. These are what I use and it wont slide at all. <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/3Njf5uU" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/3Njf5uU</a></li></ul>How to do it…. you have to be detail oriented and if you skip any steps or have any rubbing it will cause problems.<ol><li>Print bodies as indicated in file notes.</li><li>While they are printing soak the bearings in denatured alcohol overnight, dry them out and the relube with a light oil like 3 in 1 oil or I used sewing machine oil. you need the bearing to spin like you would want them for a fidget spinner.</li><li>Heat sink the threaded inserts into the holes on the front of the bases.</li><li>using CA glue connect the bases together using the dowels.</li><li>Screw the manifold to the front</li><li>Fit TPU bearing covers over the bearings.</li><li>The fun part…… slowly fish the rods from right to left inserting washers and bearings as you go. there should be a washer on each side. this keeps bearings and rolls from rubbing the sides. The left side of each roller space should have the beveled bearing covers with the sharp edge to the left. in cross section it should look like this. The orientation of bearings on the right doesnt matter. Once they are all in make sure the TPU covers area aligned and not rubbing. they should spin freely.  <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000089050/design/92598ce5-25e7-4f56-b434-f6b64c34c06a.png"> <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000089050/design/d7e3122b-9a0d-4954-ab71-f1540a11ec56.png">  </li><li>once you have all 8 pieces through put screw the cover on to hold the rod in place - if you are printing the enclosure you can just leave them off the enclosure will keep the rods from coming out. </li><li>Assemble the manifold.<ol><li>cut 4 pieces of PTFE tube perfectly square and long enough to leave about 2-3 cm sticking out from the top of each loading point. seat them all the way.</li><li>screw the PTFE M10 connector into the manifold.  <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000089050/design/32e3f901-4987-49f4-bd7e-86cf8341156a.png"></li></ol></li><li>Place a coupler on the end of the PTFE tube coming out of the machine and attach PTFE tubing from that point, through the holders to the manifold.  <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000089050/design/24be0f7d-c06b-4884-9157-b27d22c1ccd5.jpg"></li><li>PRINT AWAY  </li></ol>&nbsp;&nbsp;EDIT:&nbsp;DrHO1337 over at printables has some code on his model (found here <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/621741-bambu-lab-manual-material-system" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/model/621741-bambu-lab-manual-material-system</a> ) that might make material changes easier for people who want to do simple prints with multiple colors. This model was initially just made for use with single color prints. give it a try. I havent used it. and give the guy a thumbs up over there.&nbsp;here are his instructions:In order to use the slicer correctly, like an AMS, you have to change the filamentchange gcode in the printer settings. The corresponding g-code is in &#34;noAMS.txt&#34;.  <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000089050/design/704c2202-1f8e-45e8-8cc8-147f0697874d.webp">  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

Bambu Labs MMS (Manual Material System)

☆TEILE FÜR BAMBU LAP☆

PLAGROUND

This spiky, scaly boi is perfect for anyone who's a fan of mythical beasts, or who just wants to spruce up their desk with a little 3D-printed magic. And because it's a print in place design, you won't need to do any assembly - this dragon comes ready to roar right out of your printer!Crafted with care and attention to detail, the Dragon Model features an intricate design with tons of little details to bring your print to life. You'll be able to see every scale, horn, and wing on this fearsome creature, and you won't even need a magnifying glass to do it.This dragon isn't just pretty to look at, either - it's optimized for printing without supports, so you can focus on the fun stuff (like choosing your filament color and showing off your 3D printing skills) instead of getting bogged down in the details.So if you're ready to take your 3D printing game to the next level and show off your love for dragons, it's time to download the Dragon Model and start printing today!

FLEXI SKULL DRAGON PRINT IN PLACE

☆DRACHEN☆

The Big Greek

I would like to introduce you to my remix phone holder from <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/u/1285112604" rel="nofollow noopener">Reckit</a>. His design is fantastic, please read the text.&nbsp;After I talked to <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/u/1285112604" rel="nofollow noopener">Reckit</a> and asked if I could make a remix of his phone stand and he said yes, I am now making it available.&nbsp;One version has a slightly steeper angle, which is better for me to look at the phone.&nbsp;The other version has 2 different angles, so you can choose which one fits better.&nbsp;I have deliberately kept to the excellent design out of respect for <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/u/1285112604" rel="nofollow noopener">Reckit</a>, as this is simply timeless.&nbsp;Also the settings of the printing profile are the same as <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/u/1285112604" rel="nofollow noopener">Reckit</a>, so they work as they should.&nbsp;The following text is also from him, as I believe it is a tribute to his work.&nbsp;Thank you <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/u/1285112604" rel="nofollow noopener">Reckit</a> for your trust.&nbsp;&nbsp;Copied text from Reckit original&nbsp;The stand is designed to hold the phone with or without a case. Accents on the side are printed separately and fitted in after being printed&nbsp;No AMS is needed for dual-color print.&nbsp;Accents are a tight fit so position them into place and push down on a hard flat surface for a flush fit.&nbsp;Inspired by @libb_s - you should check out some of their models&nbsp;If you like my work/project consider supporting me with these options:<ul><li>leave a like</li><li>leave a comment</li><li>download the file</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/thebiggreek" rel="nofollow noopener">or By me a Coffee</a></li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/464548/2024-01-10_7559cb7272b27.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/464548/2024-01-10_d38d5a05f7a55.jpg"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/464548/2024-01-10_6ff3701842bef.jpg"></figure>

☆GESCHENKE☆

☆MODELLBAU☆

☆TEILE FÜR BAMBU LAP☆

☆DRACHEN☆

☆MIX TEILE☆