SteveY

f1dude

<h2>Rack ONE / Node ONE</h2><h3>I was searching for a simple and fast-print desktop spool rack for my frequently used spools, and I couldn&#39;t find one; the ones I saw took too long to print and used too much material. Node ONE is a strong, fast and simple print-in-place model that uses cheap wood dowels for a compact desktop spool organizer. It was designed as a print-in-place model so that all the tubes where the dowell gets inserted are printed flat to the build bed to achieve maximum structural strength. It is also one of the few spool racks that can be printed in a small A1 mini-build plate.</h3><h3>V2 Thanks to some user feedback I&#39;ve chamfered the corners of the legs to avoid sharp edges</h3>&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:49.97%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/791254/2024-03-26_ab29ffea954bc.jpeg"></figure><h3>Parts list:</h3>8 x nodes4 x ½&#34; OD x 36&#34;L<a target="_blank" href="https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hello-Hobby-Wood-Dowel-36-Long-1-2-inch-Diameter-White-Ends/649750042?athbdg=L1600&amp;from=/search" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hello-Hobby-Wood-Dowel-36-Long-1-2-inch-Diameter-White-Ends/649750042?athbdg=L1600&amp;from=/search</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;Cut the 36&#34; rods into:4 x 90 mm4 x 220 mm4 x 600 mm “recommended” (or more if you buy longer dowels)&nbsp;<h3>Bigger and Metric versions:</h3><h4>The model can be upscaled to different tube diameters and lengths, so feel free to try the other bigger or metric print profiles.</h4><h3> </h3><h3>Printing instructions:</h3>&nbsp;My tested model uses the exact ½&#34; diameter and grabs the dowel pretty tight using PETG. You can use PLA, too, but you will have to glue the dowels to the nodes because the PLA node will slowly deform a little and potentially lose grip.&nbsp;It is obviously important that the node has a tight fit to the dowels to keep the assembly together, but it is possible that your printer and dowels (or any ½&#34; tube you want to use) may have different tolerances. Therefore, it is recommended that you start by printing the &#34;hole fit test&#34; model, check if they fit the end of your dowels tightly. If the fit is tight enough, that&#39;s great; if not, scale it up or down by 1% increments until you get a good tight fit.&nbsp;<h3>Assembly:</h3>&nbsp;1- Assemble two horizontal sections as shown below:&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/791254/2024-02-29_4b06afebeb2fc.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;2.- In order to keep the proper structural strength, lean the vertical rods against the bottom horizontal section and then insert the top section the same way, as shown below.&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/791254/2024-02-29_f937d99587081.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:44.55%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/791254/2024-02-29_41c8c960f29018.jpeg"></figure>&nbsp;Done!&nbsp;Thank you for printing. I hope it helps your printing experience!!!&nbsp;If you like the design, kindly consider buying me a coffee using the link below.&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/f1dude" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.buymeacoffee.com/f1dude</a>

Spool Rack

Printer accessories

Ur3Dprints

This is a 3D mesh/fabric/coaster that is very cool to feel in hand.I used the Bambu Lab P1S and Esun PLA filament for this print and it prints beautifully, especially with the textured PEI plate.&nbsp;-Print settings I used the standard Bambu studio settings for PLA&nbsp;!!CAN BE PRINTED IN LUDICROUS MODE WITH NO ISSUES (on my end) if issues arise I found that you can raise the temperature slightly to fix flow&nbsp;Note: When freshly printed you may need to play with it a bit to get it to loosen up. It should be quite fluid when you move it around. What I do is fold it and just go back and forth for a little while and do the same thing for the other end and it is all loosened up!&nbsp;link to my Etsy Shop: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/Your3DprintsUS?ref=shop-header-name&listing_id=1518717738" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.etsy.com/shop/Your3DprintsUS?ref=shop-header-name&listing_id=1518717738</a>&nbsp;

3D Printed Coaster/Mesh/Fabric

Gifts

vlad3ua

Yet another Phone Stand. This little one holds up your tablet or phone on any specified angle. You can even hang the stand with your phone on the laptop screen or in the front seat of the airplane. It will be convenient when watching a video, shooting with a camera, etc. Scale it to fit your needs. Update March, 24: The thread connection has been modified to make printing easier. It's still recommended to print with layer height 0,1-0,16mm to get nicely looking and flawlessly working thing)

Foldable Phone Stand

phone stand

JLeigrem

I liked the look of HSW, but I've never been a big fan of mounting things on anything that can “slip out” (i.e. anything inserted). So after some more looking I found Thread Board ( <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/499287-threaded-board" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/model/499287-threaded-board</a> ) and instantly fell for the gorgeous screws holding things in place. But as I got ready to print I realized HSW needs A LOT LESS material to print - plus I still liked how it looks better. What to do..?&nbsp;Well, remix both of course! So after some tinkering with both I made a set of THREADED inserts for HSW that match those of ThreadBoard. So the screws from there will work here (as well as all existing HSW things). But also anything that requires to be screwed in (such as the awesome creations from <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/511495-bolt-on-another-peg-with-threads-and-bolts-but-fre" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/model/511495-bolt-on-another-peg-with-threads-and-bolts-but-fre</a> which use a bigger hole and thus work perfectly!).To mount this on the wall I needed countersunk inserts, but why waste a perfectly threadable (?) hole - so I made those as well.&nbsp;(yes I know my HSW is sideways, that's by design)Printables link: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/782981-honeycomb-storage-wall-threaded-inserts-hswthreadb" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/model/782981-honeycomb-storage-wall-threaded-inserts-hswthreadb</a>&nbsp;

Honeycomb Storage Wall Threaded inserts (HSW+ThreadBoard)

Bleepbloop

I strap this right to my dog's harness or leash and other styles would eventually break or get lost since he is very high energy. Crafted with durability and functionality in mind, this ensures a hassle-free and sturdy experience during your dog-walking adventures. If you appreciate the design and find it beneficial, consider leaving a tip in my bio. Thanks!

Heavy-Duty Dog Poop Bag Holder

Useful stuff

RileyDesigns

This is dragon scale chainmail, a print in place multi-use flexible fabric. This chainmail can be used from anything from a satisfying fidget toy to an integral part of you cosplay or costumes. This model is strong so feel free to play till your hearts content or weather it to deataile a costume. This model can be colored via bambu studio. For best results use a small layer height, but .2 works just fine. I have included multiple models in the raw model files including a single piece so you can make your own custom shapes. Everything but the single chainmail link stl file is reduced so it slices fast so beware of using high resolution shapes with this model (before this model was redeuced at a 20x20 chainmail it was over 34 million triangles). If there are any shapes you would specifically like Id be happy to make them and upload it as a profile.&nbsp;MeasurementsEach side of the hexagon is 7mm in lengthDistance from center to center to link the chainmail together should be 13mm horizontally, and to get the second row of chainmail is over 6.5mm up 11mm&nbsp;Commercial licenseI have a commercial license available at <a target="_blank" href="https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/fashion/dragon-scale-chainmail-commercial-use" rel="nofollow noopener">https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/fashion/dragon-scale-chainmail-commercial-use</a>feel free to send me a message on Makerworld to confirm this is the right model. Or send me a DM for a comercial lisence if you dont want to go through cults3d :)

Dragon Scale Hexagonal Chainmail - Print in place

dragon

Duckbang

Just imagine your Zelda with “The Ocarina of Time”…..&nbsp;(Just play it in a seculded place!)&nbsp;

12 Hole Ocarina

Musical

rostap

<h3>Arm mounting system </h3>It is a universal set of holders and arms. You can use this system as a notebook holder, tablet holder, monitor holder, camera or any other device holder or you can have it as a shelf holder.If you print a pair, you can made various tables.You can attach more arms togehter. I made some connecting parts and other accessories. There are no limits to imagination. I made it with increased strength and durability. If you add few perimeters the holders/arms can hold pretty good weight. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Small light versionHolders reduced x 0.6 and then adjusted (hole sizes, gaps, etc.)<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/181205/2023-09-26_ygt4l1gyz0rx.jpg"></figure><h4>Základní informace</h4><figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td>&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-left" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/181205/2023-09-26_1vuk35qftkm3.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;</td><td>&nbsp;You can adjust the angle in ten degrees. Screw and nut fit on both sides. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td></tr><tr><td>You can tight and loose from both sides no matter where the nut is. </td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/181205/2023-09-26_5bbkp2ve4kgr.jpg"></figure></td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/181205/2023-09-26_l4f3cs4r4hsf.jpg"></figure></td><td>There are various nuts and screws. Of of them counts with the allen screw (hex bolt) M8x40&nbsp;</td></tr><tr><td>You can also print the crew which can be tight and loose without gear- with the printed hex bolt screw. </td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/181205/2023-09-26_7dyjbvq16pqm.jpg"></figure></td></tr><tr><td><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/165239/rich_content/5d2096ce-0223-4834-ade9-1fd6b3aec194/resize_img_6432.jpg#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%2292583698-0623-4e34-94da-bb853c30ae47%22%2C%22w%22%3A2016%2C%22h%22%3A1512%7D"> <img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/165239/rich_content/4dd49cb0-b7a2-4690-8a96-9c03407d2c2e/resize_img_6427.jpg#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%225c571a00-83c6-45bf-a6bb-97f04a44ed33%22%2C%22w%22%3A2016%2C%22h%22%3A1512%7D"></td><td>The holes for key in the screw and two arms have the same size as the holders in Honeycomb storage wall (https://www.printables.com/cs/model/152592-honeycomb-storage-wall). That means that you can hang different accessories on the arms. </td></tr><tr><td>There are various of arms. </td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/181205/2023-09-26_bdrw6oh1oh1y.png"></figure></td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/181205/2023-09-26_u06b8t58ztlv.jpg"></figure></td><td>ClampI made 3 different types - <ol><li>for the screw M5/M6 mounting spacing for holders 30x30mm</li><li>for the screw M5/M6 mounting spacing for holders 40x40mm</li><li>for the screw M5 mounting spacing for holders 40x40mm</li></ol>&nbsp;</td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/181205/2023-09-26_t3u1ipn1agdd.jpg"></figure></td><td>VESA rotating holder - 75mm</td></tr><tr><td>Combination for possitioning along the axis Z<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/181205/2023-09-26_7m1sfrwcw20k.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;</td><td>System - high table for tablet holder <img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/165239/rich_content/228c6e5e-a2a4-41ce-a79e-962f4006c973/resize_img_6430.jpg#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22da81a7de-4dd3-453e-96dc-6c179e6bc32e%22%2C%22w%22%3A1512%2C%22h%22%3A2016%7D"></td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/181205/2023-09-26_11nh0grq3czm.jpg"></figure></td><td>There are holders for three tablets. Bottom width<ol><li>196 mm</li><li>250 mm</li><li>305 mm</li></ol>screw spacing 30mm</td></tr></tbody></table></figure><h4>Basic arms</h4>The only difference is the grid<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/181205/2023-09-26_0qsfmal86eys.png"></figure>&nbsp;<h3>Holders</h3>A few basic handles<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/181205/2023-09-26_wjg38olir4sz.png"></figure>&nbsp;<h4> </h4><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/181205/2023-09-26_ej2zf1avpe73.png"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/181205/2023-09-26_2ujybj6hyhzb.png"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/181205/2023-09-26_3i0br0eesaay.png"></figure>&nbsp;I printed small parts on the Prusa Mini, the arms on the Ender 3.&nbsp;My printing settings<ul><li>material: PETG</li><li>perimeters: 8 and more</li><li>infill : 30% and more</li><li>layer height 0.3 (with nozzle 0.6 layer height 0.4) (screw and nuts only 0.2mm layer height) </li></ul>&nbsp;

Multifunction Arm mounting system

Storage

Bootjevaarder

In this type of gearbox, all the gears of the main shaft are in constant mesh with the corresponding gears of the countershaft. Two sliding dog clutches are provided on the main shaft. Gear ratios: 1.38, 1.00, 0.78, reverse 1.86 and neutral. Dimensions: 143 x 65 x 100 mm. Weight: 0.15 kg. 2-speed gearbox: <a href="https://www.printables.com/model/144943-constant-mesh-two-speed-gearbox" rel="nofollow">Constant Mesh Two Speed Gearbox by Bootjevaarder | Download free STL model | Printables.com</a> Printing The parts should be printed on a smooth build plate. If possible, avoid elephant foot. I printed the model on a PRUSA MINI, with PLA+ filament, layer height 0.15 mm. Glue with Hard Plastic Glue where necessary. Printing instructions are provided with every .stl file. Assembly Assembly in alphabetical order. Assembly instructions can be found in 10 screenshots. The gearbox can be joined to compatible 4-stroke engines Print parts “N - Sled and Engine Connection.stl”. To couple the gearbox to the engine, the “Cranked Handle” of the engine must be removed. The engine, coupling bracket and gearbox click into the Sled. <figure class="image image-style-align-center image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/194714/2023-11-22_g9r45tzkouyv.jpg"></figure>Compatible 4-stroke engines: <a href="https://www.printables.com/model/212625-4-stroke-4-valves-over-head-camshaft-engine" rel="nofollow">4 Stroke 4 Valves Over Head Camshaft Engine by Bootjevaarder | Download free STL model | Printables.com</a><a href="https://www.printables.com/model/152321-4-stroke-flathead-v-twin-engine" rel="nofollow">4 Stroke Flathead V-Twin Engine by Bootjevaarder | Download free STL model | Printables.com</a><a href="https://www.printables.com/model/135305-4-stroke-flathead-engine" rel="nofollow">4 Stroke Flathead Engine by Bootjevaarder | Download free STL model | Printables.com</a> Operation Use the cranked handle to rotate the gearbox / engine. For shifting gears, operate the Sliding Dog Clutches. To couple / uncouple the gearbox from the engine, operate the clutch lever of the "N - Engine Connection”.

Constant Mesh 3 Speed Gearbox with Reverse Gear

Engineering

3DPrintNovesia

Nearly every 3d printed wallet is a hardcase wassel or card holder; thats okay but I'm not a fan of it and I also need space for cash and the change. So lets break down a simple normal wallet:<ul><li>its foldable</li><li>space for cards</li><li>space for bills</li><li>and a coin pocket</li></ul>&nbsp;Alright lets take these four topics to design the perfect 3D printed wallet. I don't want a hardcase wallet and it should be foldable?<ul><li>Only solution here is, flexible material. so I choose TPU with a shore hardness of 95A</li></ul>&nbsp;Space for Cards and for Bills aren't that challenging. I just need to create small pockets which dont fuse together while printing. Thats how I came up with the design and Print orientation like it is. Closed and standing up. There are 3 Slots for 3-4 Cards each! so up to 12 Cards in total! The most challenging part to design was the coin pocket. I don't wanted to change the orientation of the model so I needed to fit it in like the model was set. I designed it so it can be enlarged by itself after printing. And also the lash ist coming down perfect so the holes for the buttons will just allign perfectly. I use this push buttons for the coinpocket, you can find it on <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B000P15BLC/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1638&creative=6742&creativeASIN=B000P15BLC&linkCode=as2&tag=machmal3d01-21&linkId=5bd54badec361b091f4c49e5d0c0d93e" rel="nofollow noopener">Amazon</a>. Since then I used it as my regular wallet and it survived without any damage. It just got a little bit dirty over the time while i tested it by using it every day!<img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/244206/rich_content/480e74fa-6151-4793-a7c8-82bcebe06c56/ezgifcom-gif-maker-1.gif"> Print it standing up, like it’s orientated in the file. Use a brim to get better bed adhesion! Use 2 Perimeter and Infill around 30%, no Support and ofcourse use TPU

Flexible TPU Wallet with Coinpocket! (Print in Place)

Meister Edel

Update 10.02.2023:I remixed the rotor with the toroidal design :) Feel free to test ist out!<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/54749#profileId-56494" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/de/models/54749#profileId-56494</a>In addition, there are now many other great remixed propellers from other users. You can find them connected to this print or my toroidal propeller.<figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-center" style="width:65.71%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/353748/2023-11-10_2d7kbimuo75c.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;HiRecently my son came home very sad because a friend had such a fancy flying propeller from the 1€ shop.Of course I had to sit down directly at the computer and after the first prototype was already well working I designed an improved version.This toy should be very stable and last a long time! Also, it's very easy to use and grab for the smaller ones among us!Put the pulling rod in the place marked by the arrows. Otherwise the propeller wants to fly downwards. Have fun! :) Note: The prop will fly long distances/ very high. So better use it in a place without trees and no obstacles. Hold the Toy away from the face! - otherwise the propeller will fly into it :D&nbsp;Print instructions/ tipps:<ul><li>Axis: Print the axis with at least 3-4 perimeters!</li><li>Propeller: Print the propeller with a not too brittle material! (I used tough PLA or even better: Nylon + Carbon Filament) - Low infill: The lighter the better ,-) I also tried TPU. It works but if you pull too hard it may deform too much and cause a malfunction. The lower you choose the layer hight the less friction the prop will cause. (I printed in 0,15mm)</li><li>Gear & Bearings: Use filament that can withstand kinda low tolerances. PLA will do the job. If you have a seam cut it off after printing. To avoid a bad surface dont "fill the gaps".</li><li>Pulling rod: Print the Classic+ Rod with 3 Perimeter.</li><li>It is possible to separate the file into parts with your slicer ,)</li><li>I also like to break the corners of all parts by scraping over these areas with a knife. That makes the action smooth and gives a good handfeel :)</li><li>Power of Scaling: If you have difficulties inserting the axis you may reprint it scaled down a little. If it is too loose scale it up a little so it fits tight enough.</li><li>It is not necessary but I lubricated all mechanical pieces with some paraffin wax. A drop of Oil will do the job too but may be messy.</li><li>You can print all parts without support and put the parts together very easy.</li></ul>Attention: Don't use damaged Propeller!! A disbalance in the Rotation might destroy the Propeller and parts could fly Off. Especially with brital Material Like PLA.  New Mechanics Update: This is the right way to assemble the toy!<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/0pYzTrsRqqw"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/0pYzTrsRqqw" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>Since the design optimazion of the internal mechanics there is no glue needed at all!  &nbsp;I have also provided other beautiful designs for kids for free. For example, my latest is the ocarina to make music!<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/54693#profileId-58010" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/de/models/54693#profileId-58010</a>&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-center" style="width:74.14%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/353748/2023-11-10_2xl9blerr9l5.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WfEfctJU70o"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/WfEfctJU70o" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;To get the most strength out of the pulling rods locate the seam to this location: (It is possible with the Prusa Slicer for example)<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:61.62%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/353748/2023-11-10_yj4redoaa581.png"></figure>&nbsp;Remix CultureI think this simple design is very open for you to bring in your designs too! So be invited to create even better propellers! (I uploaded the .step file of the core piece. [mm])&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized image-style-align-center" style="width:66.54%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/353748/2023-11-10_sxifu6dn5if0.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Update 06.07.2022Added a new (hopefully) more aerodynamik prop. This one flies even higher!(Added in standard download & single)Update 28.05.2023Increased the strength of the prop a little by adding a radius connecting the wings with the outer ring.Update 23.02.2023: NEW PULLING RODS! Some had proplems with a breaking pulling Rod. So I beefed up the old one (Classic+) and also designed 2 totaly new ones (Ergonomic & Hook). For the Ergonomic one you will need a M3 x 20+ Screw for assembling. I tested all with PLA in the local kindergarten and they withstand even rough abuse :PUpdate 27.09.2023: Due to different manufacturing tolerances the press fit does not always work directly (scaling the axle can work wonders) I have slightly reworked the inner mechanics. I'm happy about any short feedback on the new design!&nbsp;&nbsp;If you like my work I would be very happy if you share it with others and leave a like :)

Strong Flying Propeller / Pull Copter (No Supports)

Toys

TBone_427120

This lampshade is designed for the <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/sv/models/13717#profileId-13429" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu Led Lamp 001</a> kit ←- Follow this link to get the model for the base that holds the electronics and that this globe shade locks into.&nbsp;This is a moon lithophane model for the LED Lamp kit base built using NASA SVS data.&nbsp;Before printing, it is highly recommended to test and calibrate the filaments. Test Prints are provided in a profile to test the trickier parts of the print, in particular the top of the moon. Printing the sliced off moon top will give an idea if the flow rates need to be calibrated or if the layer heights need refining.Both of these are eSun PLA, and both were printed using the same eSun PLA+ profile. <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000031191/design/2023-10-06_e7cbdab0e3545.jpg"> The one on the left (&#34;creamy&#34;) needed different flow rate settings to avoid the gaps in the thin walls. Moral of the story: spend the extra 20 minutes to at least run the Auto Calibration for a new filament (and Manual isn&#39;t so bad to do either particularly if you print on the textured plate).&nbsp;The extra big brim is out of an abundance of caution. There is nothing worse than being ten minutes from the end of a 17 hour print and hearing *CRACK* followed by a spaghetti detected notification. If the test print indicates your filament needs a small center support for the top of the moon, “Normal/Snug” supports will work best. Use Manual supports (Auto will result in a ton of exterior supports for the base of the moon) and paint a small dot in the underside of the top of the Moon. The latest version of the model has been made a little thicker and is more forgiving for printing with most filaments. The part that interfaces with the lamp kit base can easily be made a different filament to match the LED holder material or just for variety. Just set the base filament for the “ModifyBaseSettings” modifier. Doing will require only one filament purge, no prime tower is necessary.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:41.3%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000031191/design/2023-10-06_33ea3c815b5ef8.png"></figure>&nbsp;If using the modifier to make a material change at the base, make sure to pick two filaments that have good adhesion to each other.Because the print requires supports in the base and cleanly removing those supports is important for a snug fit to the lamp kit base, a test print is provided to make sure the filament and support settings will release cleanly. Normal snug supports provided the best results (tree supports required much more effort).&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:17.23%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000031191/design/2023-10-06_f00e2d2199c81.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;If you do use the center support, when removing don&#39;t pull at individual folds from the bottom. Use something to grab on multiple folds as far up as possible (a pair of kitchen tongs works well) and twist.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:17.52%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000031191/design/2023-10-06_c2509972a68348.jpg"></figure>Twisting will put less stress on the top of the sphere and less risk of pulling away the moon surface. If you have wisps of filaments, resist the urge to use a heat gun because the variable thickness of the shell will contract non-uniformly under the heat. This is the result using a heat gun on a lithophane:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000031191/design/2023-10-06_a27a97fbc55ec.jpg">&nbsp;