ShyneflowLaserCreationsAndMore

BeeTee 3D

LED lightbox lamp for the most fearsome of fruits, Otto the Orange from Syracuse University.&nbsp;Two backplates are included – one with a hole for hanging, and one without a hole for placement on a desk or table.&nbsp;&nbsp;How do I make this thing?!Easy!  Just follow these general steps, and you'll be lighting up your life in no time.  Pay attention, as there will be a quiz later.&nbsp;<ol><li>Download the model to your computer or open it in the Handy app.  I suggest downloading it and opening it so you can remove the purge line (Google is your friend here).  I also strongly suggest using the included profile, as it contains many little tweaks to prevent problems that are common with these types of lamps (gaps, wisps, separation, etc.)</li><li>Confirm whether you have enough AMS's to handle all of the colors.  I do my best to keep my lamps to 4 colors or less, but sometimes that's just not possible, and a second AMS will be needed.  Alternatively, you can build in pauses and conduct manual filament swaps, but you'll need to research how to do that on your own, because I'm not good at that.</li><li>Ensure your filament colors are in the correct AMS slots that corresponds to the model.  Hint: I generally arrange my colors in alphabetical order, because I'm weird like that.  Just be cautious of wildcards like "light blue".</li><li>All of my models come with two different back plates.  One will have a hole for those of you that want to hang the lamp on a wall.  The other will not have a hole, and that's intended for those of you who will be placing the lamp on a desk or a table or a cat.  You do NOT need to print both back plates (or do, I don't care, I'm not your mother).  Pick whichever one you want.  Some lamps will also come with a base.  This is to keep your lamp from tipping over like a drunk toddler if you're placing it on a flat surface.  If you're hanging it on a wall, you don't need the base.</li><li>I strongly recommend using a textured PEI plate, as that will do an excellent job in hiding the print lines, and that's what these prints are tweaked for.  But you can use whatever fancy plate you want -- again, I'm not your mom.  </li><li>Once you've got your AMS set up and are ready to go, hit that big ol' PRINT button for the lamp face and then your back plate. I suggest disabling Flow Calibration.</li><li>Go make a sandwich.</li><li>You should now have the lamp face and your back plate of choice, and it's assembly time!</li><li>This first step is optional, but I would suggest picking up aluminum (or aluminium for some reason if you're British) foil tape.  Yes, it comes in tape form!  Line the inner side of the back plate with the sticky stuff, as it will help tremendously in making your light brighter and with a more even and consistent light.  I personally tear off small strips, apply, and then flatten/smooth it out with the edge of a credit card, and repeat until the entire side is shiny silver.</li><li>Next you're going to want to buy yourself some LEDs.  The options here are many and varied, and I can't decide for you (see mom comment above).  Decide what types of light you want.  Do you want basic white light?  Great!  Do you want cool white or warm white?  Do you want it to flash or dance to the music?  Do you want a switch?  Do you want a remote?  Do you want it to be USB or higher voltage?  Have you changed your mind and want it to be multi-colored or able to change color to the seasons or your mood?<ol><li>What I can do is make some suggestions.  First, there are several kinds of LEDs that are typically used in these types of lamps.  The first is a basic LED strip, which is a roll of circuit board tape with a sticky back-end.  These are the simplest and easiest to use.  Next is what's called a COB strip, which is basically the same, but instead of an LED every inch, it has a solid band of light.  Then there's neon COBs, which are self-explanatory.  There's also LED dome bulbs, which you would apply directly to the backplate, but would require soldering.</li><li>Whatever you choose, you want to look for the following:  - A way to power the thing.  USB, DC, solar panels, steam engine -- doesn't matter, just as long as you can turn it on and off.  - A way to trim the length.  Most LED strips have areas on them that are safe to cut with scissors as long as you cut precisely along the indicated area.  Once you make that cut, the part of the LED strip that's still connected to the power will function, but the remainder will no longer function (there are ways to repower them, but generally require soldering and/or special clips and new controllers.  Google is still your buddy here).  <ol><li>A way to secure the strip to the inside of the lamp.  Most LED strips come with an adhesive side, but not all -- make sure you know what you're buying.  In a pinch, hot glue will do the trick. </li><li>An LED strip length of 1m is usually sufficient, but some lamps do exceed that length.</li><li>Test EVERY strip before you apply it.</li></ol></li></ol></li><li>All of my lamps come with a hole in the side of the case that's just big enough for threading through the LED strip (if you don't want the hole, you can cover it with a small piece of electrical tape).  Thread the USB cable (or whatever power source you chose) from the inside through to the outside so the connecter is dangling just outside the lamp.  Then peel off the sticky backing of the LED strip, and start applying it to the inner wall perimeter of the lamp, maintaining steady pressure to ensure good adhesion.  Try to keep it as straight as possible.  Use a credit card or other narrow instrument to help get it into any nooks and crannies the lamp has.  Continue along the entire inner perimeter until you come back around to the outlet hole, and then make your cut.  Plug in the power to ensure the light still works.<ol><li>This is optional, but I suggest putting a dab of hot glue every inch or so to secure the strip extra tightly to the inside of the case.</li></ol></li><li>Now you're ready to close the lamp up.  Take the back plate you printed earlier and line it up with the front plate.  All of my back plates have a lip to help secure it, and it is a tight friction fit.  This helps keep the two halves together without needing to glue them, which allows you to open it back up in case you need to fix the LEDs.  Once it's lined up, squeeze the two halves together, ONLY PUTTING PRESSURE ON THE OUTER EDGES.  If you squeeze the lamp directly on the thin face or back plate, you'll put your whole hand through it like a gorilla.  <ol><li>Here's the method I use:  I place the edge of the box between the balls of my thumbs, lock the rest of my fingers together above it, and then squeeze.  As long as you're only squeezing on the EDGE, it can take a surprising amount of force.  I repeat this around the entire edge of the lamp until I have a tight fit.  Occasionally, for any tricky areas, a little sanding/trimming/clipping of the lip can be helpful.</li></ol></li><li>Lucky number 13, and you're done! </li></ol>&nbsp;Quiz time (did you think that was a joke?)  1. What's the suggested way of opening the lamp file?  2. What do you need to ensure is in the right order before printing?  3. I'm not your _______?  4. Which back plate should you use for which scenario?  5. What is the recommended plate you should use for lamps?  6. What kind of sandwich did you make?  7. What type of LEDs did you decide on, and what should you do before applying it? 8. What should you NEVER apply pressure to or squeeze when joining the lamp halves together? 9. Did you have fun? &nbsp;Feel free to join me on Patreon @ BeeTee 3D for more, including exclusive lamps!  &nbsp;

Syracuse University Otto the Orange classic LED lamp

cuse

HribaDesign

This model is a remix of the original “Catch-All Trays / Desk organizer” model. It is fully compatible with this remixing model and it can also be stacked on top of the original remixed model.The containers are in sizes 5x5 / 5x10 / 5x15 / 5x20 / 5x25 / 10x10 / 10x15 / 10x20 / 10x25 / 15x15 / 15x20 / 15x25 / 20x20 / 20x25 / 25x25 / 30x5 / 30x10 / 30x15 / 30x20 / 30x25 / 30x30 cm.All are available with a smooth, designed hexagon, wavy bottom, the 15x15 container is also available with smaller integrated compartments and all in two heights.There are two heights of connectors and plugs in the files. In the case of a combination of containers of two heights, a small connector and a small plug are used. The heights are made so that it fits exactly.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/227786/2023-12-02_d199vhi3w4ch.gif">P.S. Jonathan Levi tipped me off to this remix :))) you can take a look what does he say about it.. the best is at the end ;)<a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/@thenextlayer" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.youtube.com/@thenextlayer</a><figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kN8-9mgatTo"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/kN8-9mgatTo" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>

cuse

Organizing