I’ve been testing a levitation setup with my model Floaty Puff - a small levitating pufferfish lamp.When it works, it looks great. Getting it to work consistently… not so much 😄If you’ve used one of these kits, you probably know the drill - you lower the piece, it almost stabilizes… and then snaps back to the base. Again and again.Why it’s inconsistentThe hardest part isn’t printing or assembly - it’s positioning.This system is very sensitive:tiny shifts (even 1–2 mm) matterslight tilt = instabilityuneven balance makes it harder to controlThere are also less obvious factors:The base needs to sit on a flat surface.avoid metal underneath (it can mess with the field)small changes in setup can affect the resultThat’s why it can feel random - even when you’re doing the same thing.About the ring insideInside the floating element there’s a small ring holding the copper wire around the magnet.In the original setup it’s a bit loose, so the wire can move slightly. That affects stability.I made a tighter version of this ring to center the wire better.It helps a bit - but it’s not a game changer.What actually makes the differenceFrom testing, the important parts are:good balance of the floating piecepatience when positioningstable, flat surfaceno interference (like metal under the base)There’s no single fix that solves everything.One thing that’s easy to miss - heatAfter a few failed attempts, the setup can start behaving worse.The coils heat up, which affects performance.If you notice:it’s harder to stabilizebehavior gets inconsistentor even the light stops working→ just turn it off and let it cool down.Trying over and over usually makes it worse. Airflow and cooling (without ruining the design)One more thing I paid attention to was airflow.Since the coils can heat up over time, I wanted to give the base some basic ventilation - but without adding visible holes that would ruin the look of the model.So I designed the base with intake openings from the bottom, allowing cooler air to be pulled in. At the same time, I needed a way for the warm air to escape from the top.Instead of adding obvious vents, I used the tubular coral elements as hidden airflow channels. They have openings that go all the way through and connect directly with the base, creating a natural path for air to move.This way, warm air can escape through the corals without affecting the overall design.I also added small feet under the base to create a gap between the model and the surface - this helps air flow underneath and improves cooling a bit more.Floaty PuffI tested all of this with Floaty Puff - a simple levitating pufferfish lamp.It’s more of a fun gadget than a technical build. Once you get it stable, it looks really good.TutorialI show the setup and the small tweaks in the first minute of the tutorial.Try itThe model is free on MakerWorld. https://makerworld.com/pl/models/2716927-floaty-puff-levitating-pufferfish-lamp#profileId-3009182  If you’ve used a levitation kit before, I’d love to hear your experience!