PineTrees

Josh-3D

[Introduction]6/27/2024 - I just wanted to say thank you to everyone that has downloaded and printed the shuffler! I&#39;ve had a few bumps in the road, and a few bugs to work out. I appreciate you all, the comments, the suggestions, and I&#39;m sorry for any of the issues caused by trying to get these early bug fixes and everything out there. It&#39;s like my own little No Man&#39;s Sky! My personal A1 Launch, haha. &nbsp;I had to adjust the model for sleeved cards, and I realized that might have caused some troubles for those that might have started printing the original one and then tried switching to the updated version. If it makes you feel any better, I&#39;ve got a whole pile of parts from upgrading the ones I made prior to my o-ring fix. &nbsp;I&#39;ve updated the instructions with some written notes to help clarify the assembly where needed. Hopefully I&#39;ve covered everything. &nbsp;I&#39;ve updated the BOM to include the o-rings properly for when you go to buy the parts from Maker&#39;s Supply. &nbsp;6/23/2024 - Minor Update. I had updated the profiles, but the X1/P1/A1 Profile didn&#39;t get updated correctly, it appears. I&#39;m very sorry about this. I&#39;ve just updated it and verified. If you want to make sure you have the latest, it&#39;s simple; the original had a plate for the TPU rollers all their own, but in the new profiles, they are part of the plate with the shafts since they are PLA now, with O-Rings. &nbsp;6/22/2024 - Big Update! I adjusted the model to accommodate sleeved cards. I had to ditch the TPU rollers. They worked for the most part for un-sleeved cards, but weren&#39;t perfect. For sleeved cards, it was no good. Luckily for me, Bambu started to carry O-rings on the Maker Supply, and Bob&#39;s your uncle, we&#39;re in business. It&#39;s much better. As much as I wanted to like TPU rollers, they were just still too smooth. I&#39;ll update the BOM section fully once I can link to the Maker&#39;s Supply entry for the o-rings. They are easy to find elsewhere too though like on amazon, or even your local hardware store for that matter. &nbsp;This update has a slightly longer base, so all the mid sections are a little longer. Ends/gears all stay the same. It&#39;s been working well for sleeve and unsleeved cards for me, in the Skip-bo to regular playing card size. Should be able to handle things like MTG and your other beloved sleeved card games. <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-07-01_424973d9eac09.png">&#34;</figure><figure class="media"><oembed url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2rctBx6R20"></oembed></figure>I haven&#39;t been to keen on the card shufflers available commercially, and feel most of the ones designed for 3d printing don&#39;t really elevate themselves to a consumer level product. Thus, this card shuffler was born. I wanted something stylistic, and not just functional. Inspired by old printing presses, with those cast iron frames. Although, it looks a bit like a boiler too, I&#39;d say.&nbsp;Sized for standard playing cards. (64x89mm + plus sleeves, or there abouts, is the max size card it&#39;ll shuffle). I sized it to be able to shuffle a full skip-bo deck, which is 160 cards. It can do about 80 sleeved cards, in testing. Might have to make an extra tall version for bigger decks and big sleeved decks! &nbsp;It&#39;s been running smoothly for me, especially since upgrading to O-rings. The grip on them is much better than the original TPU rollers. There are occasional jams that happen, when the cards don&#39;t fall right. I think as long as you aren&#39;t going too slow and keep a good pace, usually it&#39;s fine. Sometimes it helps to shift the whole thing back and fort slightly to shake the cards loose and get them to settle. &nbsp;[Hardware Required]&nbsp;Featured FilamentsBambu PLA Metallic Iron GrayBambu PLA Metallic Copper BrownBambu PETG-CF Brick Red&nbsp;Bambu PLA Galaxy NebulaBambu PLA Glow GreenBambu PLA Metallic Copper Brown&nbsp;Bambu Matte Grass GreenBambu Marine BlueBambu Lemon Yellow&nbsp;Notes about PrintingAs Noted, you&#39;ll want TPU for the pads. At least that&#39;s what I designed and set them up for. I also set them up to use fuzzy skin, to hopefully give a little more texture to grab onto the cards. &nbsp;I highly recommend using a smooth PEI bed. (It&#39;s not required, and you can absolutely print the whole thing on your bed of choice. I just highly recommend the Smooth PEI bed for PLA because it holds well, and for smaller parts with a thin profile on the bed, it tends to hold much better. Like the spacers I use in step 4.)&nbsp;Hardware Required :36x M2.6x8mm Self Tapping Screws (Bambu&#39;s BT2.6x8mm self tapping screws) (From the <a target="_blank" href="https://us.store.bambulab.com/collections/self-tapping-screws/products/bt2-6-socket-head-cap-self-tapping-screw-shcs" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu US Store</a>)9x MR128ZZ Ball Bearings (inner = 8mm, outer 12mm, height = 3.5mm, such as <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-MR128-2RS-Groove-Bearings-Double/dp/B082PPLHLQ" rel="nofollow noopener">this one from Amazon</a>, or from the <a target="_blank" href="https://us.store.bambulab.com/collections/steel-deep-groove-ball-bearings/products/micro-steel-deep-groove-ball-bearings?variant=42504744960136" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu US store</a>)4 O-Rings OD 24x2.5mm  ( From the <a target="_blank" href="https://us.store.bambulab.com/collections/makers-supply/products/o-rings?variant=42561621753992" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu US Store</a>)&nbsp;[Upgrading from the TPU Roller version]<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 51.3%"></figure>If you&#39;ve already printed the card shuffler, but want to upgrade, please refer to the above graphic for the parts you&#39;ll need to reprint. Make sure you print 2 of the axels, pad drums, and the card holder/bracket. In addition you&#39;ll need two extra screws to secure the drums to the axels, and the 4 O-rings. &nbsp;If all you want to do is upgrade the pad drums, then you should be able to slide them on the original axles, however be aware that they aren&#39;t secured with friction like the TPU pads were, so you might need to glue them or use some other method to fix them once installed, if the fit is too loose. The new axels are slightly longer, but also have a hole for a self tapping screw to tap into. &nbsp;&nbsp;[Assembly]<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-06-15_2b08e90375684.png"></figure>Step1: Screw the end plates on. <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-06-15_1adb06ad5af73.png"></figure>Step2: Assemble the two side card holders, then slot them in and screw them into the main body. <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-07-01_8bbf798eae572.png">&#34;</figure>Step3: <ul><li>Install the o-rings onto the two drums.</li><li>Install the bearing on the end of the shaft and then screw the end cap into place to keep it secure. </li><li>Insert the drum into place, and then insert the shaft through the drum and the main body. Install the set screw to set the drum into place.</li></ul>(Caution: Do not overtighten! Loosen screw a little of bearings bind)<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-07-01_cab12fd5e7267.png">&#34;</figure>Step4: <ul><li>Insert the bearings onto the shafts, followed by the spacer and then the gear. Make sure the bearing is fully seated.</li><li>Make sure the gears are orientated right. The Arrow pattern on the gear should point in the direction of travel. Inward! </li><li>Screw the gears into place. </li></ul>(Caution: Do not overtighten! Loosen screw a little if gears bind)<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-07-01_ebf978ef5c756.png">&#34;</figure>Step5:<ul><li>The Tricky part</li><li>For each gear there is a gear peg and the bearing. Insert the bearing into the end plate, and insert the gear peg into the gear. Make sure the gears are fully seated.</li><li>I insert the small gear and then the large one. With the large one I try and angle it in a little, and use a little force to jam it into place. </li><li>You&#39;ll want to try and rotate the pads so the flat ends are opposite each other before installing the large gear. </li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-07-01_15779ddde2fa8.png">&#34;</figure>Step6: Insert the bearings into the gear bracket and make sure they are fully seated. Screw the bracket into place. <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-07-01_f1903c7fa1759.png">&#34;</figure>Step7: <ul><li>Insert the bearing into the crank arm, and then sandwich it between the peg and knob, and secure it with a screw. </li><li>Screw the crank arm onto the large gear&#39;s shaft with an end cap to help keep it secured. </li><li>Shuffle some cards! </li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-06-15_9c88d6ec0f9ee.png"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-06-15_c4986513a4b3f.png"></figure>&nbsp;-------If you like my work, consider showing your love by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/josh3d" rel="nofollow noopener">Buying me a coffee</a>. Additionally, if you&#39;re looking to sell prints of my design, please check out my <a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/josh3d/" rel="nofollow noopener">Patreon</a> page for more information. on.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

Card Shuffler

may 2024

Vixvvo 3D

commercial licenses will be accessible through my Patreon page Including every other model designed, ‘Vixvvo3D’. I aim to consistently post and model new content on a weekly basis. Your support on <a target="_blank" href="https://patreon.com/Vixvvo3D" rel="nofollow noopener">https://patreon.com/Vixvvo3D</a> is greatly appreciated! &nbsp;i recently made this model for filming or watching videos, this takes around 6 hours to print with a bambulab printer. &nbsp;

Phone Arm Stand

organization

Ciuf_Ciuf

After completing the print, it will be necessary to gently fold the wings and the horizontal tail as shown in the photoIt&#39;s very simple and quick to print, with a total time of 18 minutesGreat recreational item if you have kids&nbsp;Have fun!

Indoor/Outdoor Airplane

kiddos

jwbaker360

Originally made by aaronjasso on thingiverse, <a target="_blank" href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6175911" rel="nofollow noopener">Sticky Note Stencil by aaronjasso - Thingiverse</a>&nbsp;Sticky note holder and stencil for making great looking sticky notes help with organization.

Sticky Note Stencil

work stuff

jdormer9

Enhance your child's wooden train set with this tunnel with a rocks.The tunnel is designed to fit perfectly on most wooden train tracks and will provide endless fun and imaginative play for your little ones.

Tunnel for Wooden Track Train

Rehoboth gifts

KYZ Design

Update 04/03/2024 - License changed from “Standard Digital File License” to “CC-BY-NC-SA”. Multi-body STP file uploaded. Oh yeah, I over-engineered the hell out of this one! I went through more than 12 iterations and I think this is going to be my final version. The main challenge was designing outer walls that print without a million retractions so I didn’t want to just put regular holes and slots around the perimeter. These cheese grater looking holes are opened up both towards the inside and outside in alternating patterns creating quite large vent areas. Each section has a single line of extrusion per layer so it prints fast and isn’t too torturous for all 4 motors.&nbsp;I printed mine in clear polycarbonate and it was super easy because there aren’t any long straight walls that cause warping. ASA would also be a good choice but I chose polycarbonate so I can see the colour of the indicating desiccant without opening the canister.&nbsp;Design Objectives:<ul><li>Large vented surface area, even when installed into a spool, for quick drying of enclosed airspaces</li><li>Multiple cross-flow air paths for quick drying of desiccant without removal of the desiccant beads from the container</li><li>Design primarily for the Bambu reusable spools and sits flush with the sides of the spools. (However, as different manufacturers are converging on a more "standard" spool size thanks to the AMS, these should fit some other spool brands)</li><li>Work as a Bambu reusable spool's "spool shim" to prevent the spool pieces separating</li><li>Fast print, minimise filament retractions when printing vents on vertical walls</li><li>Strong and sturdy to last a long time - no vase mode</li><li>Desiccant cannot fall out when moving the holder between spools</li></ul>&nbsp;Print material:<ul><li>OK to use PLA if you don't plan on drying the desiccant inside the canisters</li><li>PETG recommended as a minimum if you want to dry the desiccant gently without removing them from the canisters</li><li>ASA/ABS/PC recommended</li></ul>Print settings:<ul><li>For Bambu users: print from the app.<ul><li>Feel free to add print profiles here if you changed something and think it may be useful to others.</li></ul></li><li>For those who are getting the STLs and slicing it yourself:<ul><li>Import the “cap” and “cap mesh" together and put them in an assembly to keep them aligned</li><li>Likewise, import the “body" and “body mesh" together and put them in an assembly to keep them aligned</li><li>The mesh parts should have no walls, no top, no bottom and 50-60% triangular infill (or as you see fit)</li><li>Use 3 walls for all parts, 3 layers for the bottom, 4 layers for the top</li><li>Layer height as you see fit (I use 0.20m)</li><li>Even if you have a fast printer, slow down the outer wall speed for part durability and consistency in gloss level (I use 50mm/s)</li><li>ARACHNE WALL GENERATOR MUST BE ON!</li><li>The preview should look something like below:</li><li><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/633232/2024-02-11_f252a48fe100d.png"></li><li><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/633232/2024-02-11_b2309d4cdaeda.png"></li></ul></li></ul>Spool Compatibility<ul><li>These work well with Bambu spools and eSun cardboard spools.</li><li>For eSun plastic spools, you will need to turn the retainer around for a tighter fit (these spools are getting phased out anyways).</li><li>Please check out the comments and makes as they come through - on this page and on Printables - as users post these with their spools - I've seen one already fitted on a Polymaker cardboard spool.</li><li>Sorry these are not compatible with Prusament spools but <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/23470" rel="nofollow noopener">this one</a> works with them.</li></ul>Fitment<ul><li>Overall, it's important to have your pressure advance (k value) tuned so that the seams don't bulge out and make it harder to thread parts together.</li><li>The cap is designed to fit very tightly. If you print from PLA, you might find that it threads in really easy but if you print from PETG (which has higher friction and generally doesn't print as cleanly), it is a bit hard on your fingernails to thread in. This is to ensure the cap doesn't come off and spill all the beans during use. I have included a cap installer/remover to make it a bit easier on your fingers.<ul><li>Unfortunately, even with all the settings and printer dialed in properly, variations in filament batch may create fitment issues. It's not necessarily your fault - don't be disheartened by seeing 99% of users say it's perfect but yours isn't! Measure your filament diameter. Sometimes it can be 1.72mm, sometimes 1.78mm - the latter will make the fit tighter. Either reprint just the cap in a different filament, a different section of the same roll, or scale it down slightly. (Another user has already created print profiles for easier fitting parts!)</li></ul></li><li>The retainer has been designed with a larger clearance than the cap so it should thread in nicely. However, the thread pitch is quite fine because it's designed to fit tightly to the spool so it stays on in the AMS with the constant winding and unwinding. This can, with some spools, make it difficult to remove. User @urzhiataer has made a <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/190462" rel="nofollow noopener">tool to help remove the retainer</a>, check it out!</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:45.6%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/633232/2024-02-18_246b3e25e48f28.png"><figcaption>Retainer removing tool by @urzhiataer</figcaption></figure>&nbsp;That's all, enjoy!&nbsp;Wait two more things: print this <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/73654" rel="nofollow noopener">canister holder</a> to dry 7 of them at once in your filament dryer:<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75.93%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/633232/2024-02-14_f3628eb848943.png"><figcaption>Desiccant Dryer Ferris Wheel</figcaption></figure>And if you have lots of little fragments of desiccant because you microwaved them on high, perhaps try out this <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/190762" rel="nofollow noopener">filter scoop</a>:&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:68.31%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/633232/2024-02-18_0f2082378d3f8.jpg"><figcaption>Filter Scoop</figcaption></figure>

may 2024

organization

kiddos

work stuff

Rehoboth gifts

My shit