PimpinNprogress

laisch

This is a scaled flyable micro version of the ASW20 sailplane from Schleicher. The model was created to be lightweight and printable in normal PLA.Because of it's lightweight behaviour it's a little bit fiddly to get it together properly but it's still strong enouth to survive crashes. So please read the Instructions before you build it.&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_7930ef971b4078.gif"></figure>&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_b32700811d73d.gif"></figure>&nbsp;<h3>Printing:</h3>Make sure you align the STL-Files flat with the build plate like in the pictures.&nbsp;The Fuselage and the Nose have to be printed in Vase Mode (0.12mm) for best quality and perfect stability. Make sure you geht your part cooling right otherwise the thin tail section won't print properly because of overheating. Turn Bottom Layers to 1 Layer.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_2xua1hjiurid.jpg"></figure>The Wing parts are printed in normal Mode with 0.12mm Layerheight. Make sure that the first layer prints in 0.2mm.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_9yaljcx3l44z.jpg"></figure>After printing carefully remove the wings from your print bed and make sure not to overbend them.&nbsp;<h3>Assembly</h3>Clean up the parts from any print defects<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_mmrpjuqrlmyo.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Testfit if the wings fit inside the fuselage. The reinforcement part of the wing should touch the fuselage. If not, just cut away the parts wich are too big.<figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_k461jxekhpvj.jpg"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_p3zauy5szoj1.jpg"></figure></td></tr><tr><td>Wing not aligned with fuselage</td><td>Wing aligned with fuselage</td></tr></tbody></table></figure>&nbsp;When the testfit is ok, put some superglue onto the wings and glue them in place.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_v2l13jrwi32n.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_4dvxkmto8krd.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Make a testfit if the rudder fits in to the elevator. If not you can take a cutter knife to clean it up a little bit.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_hiskzgmshhkj.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;After that put the rudder and elevator together and secure them with some CA glue. Try to not use too much glue because of extra weight.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_c5669idp5zad.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Glueing the rudder/elevator assembly to the fuselage is the hardest part of the build. It works the best if you put one small drop onto the fuselage and temporary secure it. After that you can check the alignement and adjust it properly.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_sklgvblwtn24.jpg"></figure>If it looks fine, just secure the whole thing with more superglue.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_58pkfcwdk5pu.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;To make the whole thing fly you have to add weight to the nose and adjust the center of gravity. For me a 4,5mm steelball did the trick. You can temporary secure the nose to the rest of the plane with some tape and check it's flight properties.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_9hxutt2kk35r.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_ui9nlrtydip2.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;For checking the center of gravity you can balance it on two screws. The COG should be at ⅓ of the wing measured from the front.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_vbnmudk1iyhh.jpg"></figure>if it does'nt fly properly you can also try to give it a little bit of lift by bending the elevator up.&nbsp;If it flys, you now can finally glue the nose to the rest of the sailplane.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-11-30_jasr1r5920mo.jpg"></figure>Have Fun!&nbsp;&nbsp;<figure class="table" style="width:92.21%;"><table class="ck-table-resized"><colgroup><col><col><col></colgroup><thead><tr><th colspan="3">If you like this model you may have a look at my other flying toys too</th></tr></thead><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/81500" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-12-03_bc748d83c35e18.jpg"></a></figure><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/81500" rel="nofollow noopener">Geared Propeller Launcher</a></td><td><figure class="image"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/76104" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-12-03_eadf473572ad4.jpg"></a></figure><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/76104" rel="nofollow noopener">Flying Bat</a></td><td><figure class="image"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/21091" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/231668/2023-12-03_a8fc21a53267c8.jpg"></a></figure><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/21091" rel="nofollow noopener">Cross Bow</a></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>

ASW20 Sailplane (micro glider - flyable)

planes

These badass filament swatches are able to pull double-duty as a badge to mark your spools!&nbsp;I use <a target="_blank" href="https://collectionsdb.com/" rel="nofollow noopener">Collections</a> on iOS to track my filament spools, so I needed a way to quickly bring up details on a given spool, even if it&#39;s in my AMS or a dry-box. I found <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/860409-smart-filament-samples-nfc-filament-color-swatches" rel="nofollow noopener">Molodos&#39; smart filament swatch</a>, which was close to what I needed, but didn&#39;t have a good way to attach to the AMS or filament boxes. Instead of doing the sensible thing and tweaking that model, I made a whole new one, in the best shape! I just kept the same general elements.<h4>Features</h4><ul><li>Thin walls test: 3mm, 2mm, 1.5mm, 1mm</li><li>Thickness / shine-through test: 0.2mm, 0.4mm, 0.6mm, 0.8mm, 1.0mm, 1.2mm</li><li>Round hole test: 1mm, 2mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm diameter</li><li>Layer visibility test: 20 layers total</li><li>Threaded Hole test: M3, M5, M6, and 1/8 BSP Pipe Thread (What&#39;s typically used instead of M10 for PC4-M10 Pneumatic Connectors that are commonly used for Bowden tubes)</li><li>Material type display on front and side, included files are listed below</li><li>Spot for a 25mm NFC sticker to either store information about the filament, or a link to a database entry</li><li>Slot to insert a 6mm diameter x 2mm thick magnet (shamelessly replicated from the <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/413761-gridfinity-refined" rel="nofollow noopener">Gridfinity Refined</a> bins)</li><li>Space for a 10mm x 20mm label (over the little NFC symbol thing)</li><li>I guess you could use one of the triangular holes next to the wall thickness test for a keyring?</li></ul><h4>Dimensions</h4><ul><li>70mm from point to point</li><li>35mm edge</li><li>60mm from edge to edge</li><li>4mm thick, which is 20 layers at the recommended 0.2mm layer height</li><li>Total filament usage is around 8-9 grams per swatch for common filaments like PLA, PETG, TPU, etc. Of course filament weights vary, so this will differ</li></ul><h4>Important Notes and Caveats</h4><ul><li>The recommended layer height is 0.2mm. If you want to change it in your slicer, then you should also change the LayerHeight parameter in the included Fusion file. This will adjust the heights of the Thickness / shine-through test accordingly.</li><li>The magnet is a tight fit by design, so it can be used without glue. In fact, it should deform the plastic juuuuust a bit, but not noticeably so. You can reduce or remove the MagnetGrip parameter to change this, but if you remove it I strongly suggest using glue to hold the magnet in place. There&#39;s a hole on the back which can be used to either poke a magnet out of the swatch, or to insert some glue.</li><li>The NFC Stickers are by default not encased, but they can be. I&#39;ve included files for both encased and non-encased stickers. If you need to, you can change the “EncaseNFCSticker” parameter to 1 in order to encase the NFC sticker, or 0 to leave it exposed. Any other values will wreak havoc on the model.<ul><li>I recommend leaving the sticker exposed. NFC stickers have limited read but especially limited write cycles, and if you&#39;re using them like I am and writing a new link to them with each spool, they may wear out over time. Being able to replace the sticker reduces waste.</li><li>Not all filaments or printers can handle the stupid-long 25mm bridge though, like TPU, so you should use the encased version for those instead (or use supports, but it&#39;s only 0.5 mm deep).</li><li>Though I haven&#39;t tested this, some metal-filled filaments will likely require the NFC sticker to be exposed on one side, and may not work through the metal.</li><li>The encased NFC sticker will only have a single layer underneath it, so keep that in mind when printing. See Printing and Assembly below for the stopping point if encasing.</li></ul></li><li>While PVA and Support swatches are included, those are more for filament tracking. I wouldn&#39;t advise printing those swatches in their actual materials.</li><li>The text on the swatches is also parametric. You will need the <a target="_blank" href="https://parametrictext.readthedocs.io/en/stable/index.html" rel="nofollow noopener">ParametricText</a> plugin for Fusion to parametrically change the text. See the linked docs for details, but the items will be in a new “Text Parameters” item in the “Modify” menu.<ul><li>About 4 capital letters or 5 title-case letters is the maximum per line for the front text (the face). Any longer than that, and you should add a newline. E.g. instead of PETG-CF do PETG{_.newline}CF. </li><li> For longer words, abbreviate in some way that makes sense to you. In these files, I use Supp. for support and TL for translucent (e.g. “Support for PLA” becomes “PLA Supp.”, and “PETG Translucent” becomes “PETG-TL”)</li><li>The side has a maximum character length of about 10 or so, so I would recommend retaining the same abbreviation on the face and the side.</li></ul></li></ul><h4>Print Settings</h4>These are strong recommendations, if not requirements.<ul><li>Layer Height: 0.2mm. See Important Notes and Caveats if you want to change this value.</li><li>Sparse Infill Pattern: Cubic</li><li>Sparse Infill Density: 20%</li><li>Top Shell Layers: 3</li><li>Bottom Shell Layers: 3</li><li>Supports not required (though you can use them for the NFC indent if you like)</li></ul><h4>Printing and Assembly</h4><ul><li>You&#39;ll probably want some NFC stickers. Ensure they&#39;re 25mm, but otherwise use whatever works for you. NTAG215 stickers are probably a good choice.</li><li>If encasing the NFC sticker, then pause the print at the start of layer 6, or the end of layer 5, however your slicer works, if using 0.2mm layers (otherwise, pause right before the slicer goes over the gap for the sticker). Use caution here! There&#39;s only a single layer underneath the sticker.</li><li>If not encasing the NFC sticker, then you can carefully stick the sticker in the large indent in the middle of the back of the print once it&#39;s complete.</li><li>To write data to the NFC sticker, I recommend the app NFC Tools for <a target="_blank" href="https://apps.apple.com/us/app/nfc-tools/id1252962749" rel="nofollow noopener">iOS</a> or <a target="_blank" href="https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.wakdev.wdnfc" rel="nofollow noopener">Android</a>. The developer apparently makes a version for Windows, Linux, and macOS, but I&#39;ve never used it.</li><li>The magnet, if you use it, can be inserted in the slot in the top edge of the hexagon, above the NFC icon. Push it in partway, then use something narrow and sturdy to carefully force it in the rest of the way.</li></ul><h4>Included Material STLs</h4>Keep in mind the f3d file is included and is parametric (see Important Notes and Caveats above), so you can create any not listed here easily.<ul><li>PLA</li><li>PLA+</li><li>PLA-CF</li><li>PLA Matte</li><li>PLA Silk</li><li>PLA Metal</li><li>PLA Wood</li><li>PETG</li><li>PETG+</li><li>PETG-CF</li><li>PETG Translucent (PETG-TL)</li><li>TPU</li><li>PVA</li><li>Support for PLA (PLA Supp.)</li><li>Support for PETG (PETG Supp.)</li><li>Support for PA (PA Supp.)</li><li>ABS</li><li>ASA</li><li>PC</li><li>PC-ABS</li><li>PC-ASA</li><li>PA</li><li>PA-CF</li><li>PET</li></ul>

Parametric Magnetic Smart Filament Swatches

filatest

cyanidesugar

Taylor Swift's Eras Tour movie poster. Lots of filament swaps for this one, best to use an AMS (2 for most convenience!) Note: An AMS is not required, however will definitely make it a lot easier, since this one utilises so many colours! Without an AMS, just insert a ‘Pause’ at the layer height, and then manually unload and load a new filament colour, then resume the print. If you only have one AMS, you can take out a spool that has already printed and replace it with a next colour in line. In the slicer, just assign the colours to the slots accordingly! &nbsp;This print uses a vectorised version of the poster, so the colours are separated very well for a more ‘abstract effect’. Feel free to swap out the colours for any others that you may prefer! &nbsp;Filament Swaps:&nbsp;Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.08mm with a base layer of 0.2mm&nbsp;Filaments Used: - PLA Kingroon Black Transmission Distance: 0.4 - PLA+ Sunlu Red Transmission Distance: 6 - PLA Sunlu Lilac Transmission Distance: 6.6 - PLA Overture Cream Transmission Distance: 8.4 - PLA Sunlu Beige Transmission Distance: 8.2 - PLA eSUN PLA Matte Light Pink Transmission Distance: 2.8 - PLA Kingroon White Transmission Distance: 8&nbsp;Swap Instructions: - Start with Black - At layer #12 (1.08mm) swap to Red - At layer #19 (1.64mm) swap to Lilac - At layer #22 (1.88mm) swap to Cream - At layer #27 (2.28mm) swap to Beige - At layer #30 (2.52mm) swap to Light Pink - At layer #31 (2.6mm) swap to White for the rest.

Taylor Swift's The Eras Tour Poster - Hueforge Print

impress wife's friends

PRINT_ON_DEMAND

Fichier disponible sur mon patreon: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/PrintOnDemand" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.patreon.com/PrintOnDemand</a>Pour obtenir une licence commerciale rendez-vous sur mon patreon: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/PrintOnDemand" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.patreon.com/PrintOnDemand</a>&nbsp;Un Koala qui s'imprime en 1 partie pour cette version remplissage à 30% pour plus de solidité et qualité 0,2mm fonctionne très bien avec buse de 0,4mmOPTI BAMBULAB

planes

filatest

impress wife's friends

stuff for my girls <3