PascalB

dakjones82

We all know Homer Simpson loves his donuts and even if not depicted in the show, you just know Homer loves some Little Debbie Christmas tree cakes! Please enjoy this Homer-themed door corner decoration!&nbsp;Colors used&nbsp;Bambu PLA Basic WhiteBambu PLA Basic BlackBambu PLA Basic RedBambu PLA Basic GreenBambu PLA Matte Mocha (you could use several different tan colors hereHatchbox PLA Yellow (you could use several different yellows here

Homer Simpson Little Debbie Factory Door Corner 2 AMS Version (Left and Right Sides)

Christmas 

Troysterr

<h2>Summary</h2><a target="_blank" href="https://a360.co/3NrX2TC" rel="nofollow noopener">Full 3D View</a>The Lotus Seven was produced by the British car manufacturer Lotus between 1957 and 1972. It is a simple, lightweight open top two-seater. Early engines didn't have much horsepower, but the car has always been quick and sporty because of its weight.<h3>What is a "pinewood derby car shell"?</h3>The <a target="_blank" href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pinewood_derby" rel="nofollow noopener">pinewood derby</a> is an event created by the Boy Scouts many years ago. Each scout is given a pinewood derby kit typically consisting of a block of wood with slots for axles, 4 wheels, and 4 nails to be used as axles. The scout (and his dad, usually) will then carve the block of wood into the shape of a car, paint it and apply stickers, install the wheels on the axles, and then race it at the "derby", which involves a sloped track with a timekeeping apparatus.&nbsp;An official scout derby will usually require that the parts in the kit be used for cars entered in the derby. Other organizations (including workplaces) often hold derbies, too, and some of them require the use of the parts in the box, including the block of wood.&nbsp;These "pinewood derby car shells" are intended to be used with an official derby wood block, cut down to size, along with the axles and wheels included in the kit. A printable model of the shaped wood block is provided. You can either use the printed model or use it to accurately cut an official wood block down to size.<h2>Print Settings</h2>Notes:<ul><li>Car body: Extensive supports are required. In Bambu Studio, I use Normal (auto) supports in Snug style. I prefer ABS for my car bodies because it sands smoother than PLA, even after using the smoothing technique described below. But PLA will work.</li><li>The wheels, front fenders and exhaust also require some supports.</li><li>Steering wheel, rear fenders: Outer brim suggested.</li><li>All other parts print really easily.</li></ul><h2>Post-Printing</h2>Just super glue all the parts together.&nbsp;“Show wheels and tires” are included, but are optional. They are not suitable for racing--you should use the wheels that come with the kit if you race the car.<h3>Smoothing</h3>This car was smoothed with 3d printing resin and baby powder. You can find videos and guides online that describe the process, but here it is in a nutshell:<ul><li>Mix 1 part resin and 2-3 parts baby powder in an opaque container (so that it can be stored without hardening due to UV exposure).</li><li>Using a paintbrush or cotton swab, spread a thin layer of the resin/baby powder mix over the body, wherever you want to smooth print lines and gaps.</li><li>Use a UV flashlight (a cheap one--like the kind used to harden resin finger nail polish, which you can order from Amazon or buy in the pharmacy department of Walmart) to harden the resin.</li><li>Sand the body smooth until there are no thick layers left.</li><li>Repeat over any areas that are still rough.</li></ul><h3>Weights</h3>You can add tungsten weights to the holes in the rear of the body. If you plan well, and use enough infill, you can maximize the weights and end up right at 5 oz.

1957 Lotus Seven (Pinewood Derby Car Shell)

Cars

Classic 2.5

Calvin &amp; Hobbes - IT FOLLOWS&nbsp;Attack of the Deranged Mutant Killer Monster Snow Goons Cover-Artmagically transformed through Hueforgeperformed by my favourite Printer&nbsp;4 Color Filament PaintingAMS-readyIf you like you can also print with white pla only and then be creative with your acrylics or water colors, the contours are already there.&nbsp;Easy without AMS:Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.08mm with a base layer of 0.16mmFilaments Used: PLA BambuLab Matte Charcoal Transmission Distance: 0.6 PLA BambuLab Basic Orange Transmission Distance: 10 PLA BambuLab Tough Cream White Transmission Distance: 10 PLA BambuLab Matte Ivory White Transmission Distance: 4Swap Instructions: Start with Charcoal At layer #11 (0.96mm) swap to Orange At layer #18 (1.52mm) swap to Cream White At layer #32 (2.64mm) swap to Ivory White for the rest. Bill Watterson, Creator of Calvin &amp; Hobbes and Cover-Art on Attack of the Deranged Mutant Killer Monster Snow Goons, Thank You!This is Fan Art.&nbsp;

Calvin & Hobbes - It Follows

braga3dprint

The 3D model of a lightbox featuring the Bambu Lab logo is the perfect accessory for fans of this outstanding 3D printer brand. Crafted with precision, it displays the Bambu Lab logo in all its glory. This lightbox is not just a decorative piece; it's a clever integration of art and technology. With a USB LED, you can effortlessly plug it into the USB port conveniently located behind your printer's screen. The magic happens when you power up your printer, as the lightbox illuminates in harmony with your machine. This practical and aesthetically pleasing addition is an excellent way to celebrate your passion for 3D printing and Bambu Lab. Elevate your workspace with this innovative accessory! 🖨️✨ If you don't have or don't want to install LED's you can just glue the parts together and have an awesome sign!&nbsp;Materials and tools: - glue gun - aluminum tape - led strip (here is the one I <a target="_blank" href="https://pt.aliexpress.com/item/1005004253095880.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.16.1df1caa45b098E&gatewayAdapt=glo2bra" rel="nofollow noopener">use</a>): simple 1m white led USB- soldering iron (optional)&nbsp;RECOMMENDATIONS- use a textured PEI sheet - use the print profile, it has quite a few setting changes that help achieve the best results - make a hole for the USB strip wherever you like it best with a soldering iron, drill or in the slicer- use the aluminum tape on the inside of the backplate to help with light diffusion - glue the LED's the further away from the colored design possible; placing them too close ruins the diffusion and the individual LED's become visible Bambu Studio Settings: I always recommend using the print profile I provided since it has settings with which I've been able to get the best results. If you choose not to here are the main slicer settings I recommend: - preferences (ctrl + P) → activate developer settings → Quality →Advanced → First Layer Flow Ratio: 1.04 - Quality → Wall generator → Arachne - Quality → Wall transitioning threshold angle → 50º - Strength → Advanced → Infill/wall overlap → 20% - Quality → Advanced → Avoid crossing walls - Increasing retraction / reducing temperature can help reducing wisps - Order color printing from lightest to darkest color&nbsp;How to install on the printer: <figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/shorts/OiY5v5AX7Ek"><div class="ck-media__wrapper" data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OiY5v5AX7Ek"> <div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"> <iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/OiY5v5AX7Ek" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe> </div> </div></div></figure> How to make a hole in Bambu Studio:<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OsA23WCxRtg"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/OsA23WCxRtg" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure> Assembly video: <figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QNsShLmXYh0"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/QNsShLmXYh0" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>

Bambu Lab Lightbox LED Lamp

BambuLab

Nils Kal

Minecraft LetteringMade this as a present for my nephew.Filament changes can be done layer based, so no AMS required.All pieces can be printed as aligned and without supports.Instructions:<ul><li>Pick all letters you need an print them.</li><li>Print a block_left, a block_right, and as many block_middle you need (you could preview the length in the slicer, just load up all letters and arrange blocks below)</li><li>Also print the desired amount of grass pieces</li><li>Slide all pieces together, also may apply a bit of glue</li><li>The letters have to be glued on as this is highly individual</li></ul>Enjoy and happy printing!&nbsp;This work is licensed under the 'Creative Commons NonCommercial' license. Please do not sell any physical or digital copies of it.

Minecraft Lettering - the perfect gift for minecraft fans - No MMU required

Minecraft

3Dennis

Appreciate the design? Consider supporting my work by <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/3694296089" rel="nofollow noopener">following my account</a> :) [Description by original designer]&nbsp;It's a big skeleton that is (for legal purposes) inspired by a Lego skeleton. If you want to know more about this project or see more pictures, check out my <a target="_blank" href="https://docs.juliaebert.com/projects/lego-skeleton/" rel="nofollow noopener">project documentation page</a>.This is also <a target="_blank" href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5019502" rel="nofollow noopener">available on Thingiverse</a>.I was unsatisfied with existing Lego skeleton models online. There was a <a target="_blank" href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3536767" rel="nofollow noopener">model on Thingiverse</a>, but it had a very low resolution STL (circles had 16 sides, for example), and it was originally designed for a 1:1 model. I found a couple of great models on GradCAD from Yauhen - <a target="_blank" href="https://grabcad.com/library/lego-skeleton-minifig-fantasy-era-1" rel="nofollow noopener">Lego Skeleton Minifig Fantasy Era</a> and <a target="_blank" href="https://grabcad.com/library/classic-lego-skeleton-1" rel="nofollow noopener">Classic Lego Skeleton</a>. These included the STEP and SLDPART files, so I could easily modify them and export with high enough resolution for printing.Lego minifigures are designed for injection molding, not 3D printing, so it's tricky to figure out how to break up the model to minimize the amount of support (and in turn, improve the surface finish of the parts). That's why there are so many parts to this print. I also tried to make sure parts could be printed in their strongest print orientation. Lastly, I had to adjust the tolerances of parts to make them snap together as big 3D printed pieces. I spent a lot of time prototyping this model, so I hope it works for you as well!This is designed to be printed at the size of the given STL files: 10x larger than a Lego minifigure. If you scale it up or down, I can't guarantee how the tolerances will hold up. If people are interested in other sizes, I can test the tolerances (and adjust the pin sizes) and make that available.If you want to make any changes of your own (including rescaling), <a target="_blank" href="https://cad.onshape.com/documents/0244ea1dd3a12456399aaaef/w/e0d1c4a865a9519d549edefe/e/475ea9aed0e3ba36a32a9902?renderMode=0&uiState=6172dec4a070904d88332843" rel="nofollow noopener">here are the design files in OnShape</a>. You will need an OnShape account, but there is a free hobby tier available.January 2022 update: There are now additional files that split up the torso into multiple pieces (with more pins!) so that it will fit on smaller printers like the Prusa Mini at 100% scale. See more below in the “Printing Notes” section. New files are in the “Split torso” folder.Printing NotesIf you're print using the 3MF files (recommended), you will need to print: (All supports are already configured here)<ul><li>2x arm.3mf</li><li>2x leg.3mf</li><li>2x body-torso-half.3mf</li><li>1x body-neck-4x-pelvis-shoulder.3mf</li><li>1x connector-pins.3mf</li><li>MMU head:<ul><li>1x head-mmu.3mf</li></ul></li><li>Head as separate pieces:<ul><li>1x head-skull-separate.3mf</li><li>1x head-face-separate.3mf</li></ul></li></ul>If you're printing directly with the STLs, you will need to print: (No supports required, except where noted)<ul><li>2x arm-upper-arm.stl</li><li>2x arm-lower-arm.stl</li><li>2x arm-hand.stl</li><li>2x leg-foot.stl (requires bed-only support)</li><li>2x leg-calf.stl</li><li>2x leg-thigh.stl</li><li>2x body-torso-half.stl</li><li>4x body-pelvis-shoulder.stl</li><li>1x body-neck.stl</li><li>50x connector-pin.stl</li><li>If you are printing the skull and face together with an MMU (or similar):<ul><li>1x head-skull-mmu.stl</li><li>1x head-face-mmu.stl</li></ul></li><li>If you are printing the skull and face separately (or not printing the face inset):<ul><li>1x head-skull-top-separate.stl (requires support everywhere)</li><li>1x head-skull-bottom-separate.stl (requires bed-only support)</li><li>1x head-right-eye-separate.stl (optional, requires bed-only support)</li><li>1x head-left-eye-separate.stl (optional, requires bed-only support)</li><li>1x head-nose-separate.stl (optional, requires bed-only support)</li><li>1x head-mouth-separate.stl (optional, requires bed-only support)</li></ul></li></ul>If you're printing on a smaller printer that can't fit the whole torso (this includes the Prusa Mini), there's an alternative version that splits the torso into two parts, connected by an additional 4 pins. Instead of printing body-torso-half.stl, print the files found in the “Split torso” folder below:<ul><li>2x body-torso-half-upper.stl</li><li>2x body-torso-half-lower.stl</li><li>4x connector-pin.stl (found in the main “STLs” folder)</li></ul>The biggest purpose of the pins is to align parts when you glue them together. For this to work, the pins need to press fit into their respective holes. Before printing all the pins, check that they press fit! If not, scale the width and height up or down as needed to fit the holes. Don't scale the length, or your pieces might not sit flush together.I recommend printing on a smooth bed. This will make for better seams when gluing together the body and arms.This is not a functional, structural part, so you can't get away with sparse print settings to save time and filament. I printed mine in PLA with 7% infill, 2 perimeters, and 0.2 mm layer height. The filament I used was scavenged from a dumpster.Assembly NotesIn general, there's only one way for pieces to fit together, so it should be fairly intuitive how to construct it. However, here's how all of the pins and pieces fit together, in CAD form: (Note that the pelvis and shoulder pieces on the body are identical/interchangeable.)<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:714.016px;"><img src="https://docs.juliaebert.com/assets/img/projects/lego-skeleton/assembled-skeleton-model.png" alt="Skeleton CAD with pins"></figure><ul><li>Here's my suggested assembly procedure:<ul><li>Start by test fitting together the parts with no glue, to check for any misalignment or loose/tight pins.</li><li>Glue all of the pins into one of the pieces you're fitting together.</li><li>Put super glue on the mating surface of the other part. No need to put it in the pin holes; the pins are for alignment, not strength, and if you put glue in them here, it can cure before you get the pieces fully together.</li><li>Line up the parts using the pins and carefully push the parts together. The thin layer of glue will cure very quickly, so there often isn't time for realignment!</li></ul></li><li>I recommend liquid super glue (as opposed to gel). When the pieces get very close together, capillary action will pull the glue to cover a larger area, and you'll get a better connection between the parts.</li><li>Assemble the legs first. These are the most forgiving parts (less precise alignment required to look good), so they're best for getting the hang of things.</li><li>The arms and legs are designed to snap onto the shoulder and hip pegs. Before attaching the shoulder and hip pegs to the body, check that you can snap on the arms and legs.<ul><li>If the arms/legs are too tight to snap on: Either (1) file/sand down the inside of the sockets until they fit on, or (2) slide the ams/legs on from the end of the pegs, then glue the pegs onto the body. The second option is easier, but make sure you don't use too much glue, or the arms/legs could end up glued in place instead of rotating freely. Also note that this option means you won't be able to take the arms and legs off.</li><li>If the arms/legs are too loose to hold their position: Add something to line the inside of the arm/leg sockets, like tape. This extra thickness should help hold them in place.</li></ul></li></ul>Model NotesAs mentioned above, this is based on GrabCAD models from Yauhen - <a target="_blank" href="https://grabcad.com/library/lego-skeleton-minifig-fantasy-era-1" rel="nofollow noopener">Lego Skeleton Minifig Fantasy Era</a> and <a target="_blank" href="https://grabcad.com/library/classic-lego-skeleton-1" rel="nofollow noopener">Classic Lego Skeleton</a> - and modified and shared here with their permission.In case you're curious about the corresponding Lego parts they're inspired by:<ul><li>Skull: #82359</li><li>Body: #60115</li><li>Leg: #6266</li><li>Arm: #59230 and #30377 (It's an amalgamation of these parts, not a part that actually exists; I took artistic license here to make something that looks nicer and is more functional.)</li></ul>To adjust the tolerances to make parts fit together, I always only adjusted the size of the outer piece. That means studs and pegs always retained their original size (48 mm for studs, 32 mm for pegs). So if you want to print any accessories for your skeleton (like a base, a hat, or something for it to hold), you can you these dimensions.

Christmas

Cars

Art

BambuLab

Minecraft

Halloween