Pandian81

FYTY112

Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.08mm with a base layer of 0.16mmThe Model is 113x169.5mm in size You may print at higher layer heights below the Min Depth of 0.56mm The Max Depth is 2.2mm and the Actual Depth is 2mmFilaments Used: PLA BambuLab Basic Black Transmission Distance: 0.6 PLA BambuLab Basic Gray Transmission Distance: 2 PLA BambuLab Basic Jade White Transmission Distance: 5 PLA BambuLab Basic Red Transmission Distance: 4 PLA BambuLab Basic Yellow Transmission Distance: 6 This print uses 5 unique filamentsSwap Instructions: Start with Black At layer #9 (0.8mm) swap to Gray At layer #11 (0.96mm) swap to Jade White At layer #15 (1.28mm) swap to Red At layer #22 (1.84mm) swap to Yellow for the rest.

Hueforge Z Gundam

hueforge

molle

mlodybuk

(A1 VERSION IN MY OTHER MODELS)During this upgrade, some parts of your printer may be damaged, I am not responsible for any damage caused by incorrect installation or other damage. If your cables appears too short for this mod you should not install it.This model allows A1 MINI users to adjust camera angle! I remixed well prepared @henlor A1 Mini faceplate model (by adding a mounting hole) with my A1 camera holder&nbsp;INSTRUCTION (It&#39;s prepared for A1 version but will work the same with Mini version): Print all 3 models as they are in print profile, camera holder should be printed with supports DURING NEXT OPERATIONS THE PRINTER SHOULD BE TURNED OFF! <a target="_blank" href="https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1-mini/camera-replacement-guide" rel="nofollow noopener">Remove original faceplace and camera according to BambuLab instruction</a> Push camera into it&#39;s new holder, it&#39;s supposed to be pretty tight so vibrations won&#39;t make any noise<img class="image_resized" style="width: 284.109px" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000476062/design/2024-05-26_a421953c70d76.png"> Put new faceplate on the X-axis with the cable going through a hole and carefully bend the connector 90 degrees, it&#39;ll be easier to connect it.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000476062/design/2024-05-26_5b47781f95f6e.png"></figure>Push the cable through camera holder hole and connect it.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000476062/design/2024-05-26_6ca89baf6ea96.png"></figure>Push in the camera facing down and rotate it so it locks<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 221.188px"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000476062/design/2024-05-26_0b6d72aa1e2e6.png"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 215.5px"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000476062/design/2024-05-26_4d5b7eaf58244.png"></figure>Put the back cover and adjust the angle<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000476062/design/2024-05-26_caaebee990e58.png"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000476062/design/2024-05-26_e28e8825bf046.gif"></figure>

Bambu A1 MINI Adjustable Camera Holder

mods

puga

ManuZiloop

If you need a clip for your filament spool: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/414787#profileId-316790" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/414787#profileId-316790</a>&nbsp;**** If you enjoy my design, please give it a “BOOST” (click on the button)***&nbsp;This model is designed to remove moisture from your filament spool.I have sized it so that it can be printed on both the BambuLab Mini and X1C.&nbsp;Use à 4mm hexagonal, allen wrench to screw the rollers…Not too tight, as it might break. Remember, it&#39;s not metal.&nbsp;Regarding the rectangular hygrometer, I bought it on AliExpress but you should be able to find it on Amazon:<a target="_blank" href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003075779370.html" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003075779370.html</a>&nbsp;I bought the cereal boxes on Amazon:<a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.fr/Wildone-conservation-herm%C3%A9tiques-c%C3%A9r%C3%A9ales-aliments/dp/B07L2QJ5LB/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Wildone%252B%E2%80%93%252BEnsemble%252Bde%252B6%252Br%C3%A9cipients%252Bherm%C3%A9tiques&amp;qid=1708091397&amp;sr=8-4&amp;th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.fr/Wildone-conservation-hermétiques-céréales-aliments/dp/B07L2QJ5LB/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Wildone%2B–%2BEnsemble%2Bde%2B6%2Brécipients%2Bhermétiques&amp;qid=1708091397&amp;sr=8-4&amp;th=1</a>&nbsp;The model was designed in such a way as to be able to accommodate silica gel. I bought a 2kg pot of silica gel on Amazon:<a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.fr/Trustleaf-Pot-d%C3%A9shydratant-silice-blanc/dp/B08X16GCVV/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=trustleaf%2Bpot%2Bde%2B2kg%2Bde%2Bd%C3%A9shydratant%2Ben%2Bgel&amp;qid=1708091636&amp;sr=8-1&amp;th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.fr/Trustleaf-Pot-déshydratant-silice-blanc/dp/B08X16GCVV/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=trustleaf%2Bpot%2Bde%2B2kg%2Bde%2Bdéshydratant%2Ben%2Bgel&amp;qid=1708091636&amp;sr=8-1&amp;th=1</a>&nbsp;Check my other models: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/@manuziloop" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/@manuziloop</a>

Cereal Box - Dry box - hygrometer- desiccant

Ams LIte

Whitecaps

Two profiles, second one it's thinner and less time to print. 170 mm x 211 mm Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.08mm with a base layer of 0.16mmFilaments Used: PLA BambuLab Basic Black Transmission Distance: 0.6 PLA BambuLab Basic Red Transmission Distance: 4 PLA BambuLab Matte Ash Gray Transmission Distance: 1.5 PLA BambuLab Basic Jade White Transmission Distance: 5Swap Instructions: Start with Black At layer #6 (0.56mm) swap to Red At layer #10 (0.88mm) swap to Ash Gray At layer #14 (1.2mm) swap to Jade White for the rest.

Gohan beast portrait

dragón ball

Hadix

Make 2 small keychain scuba fins for fun.... 1 is thin other is beefed up so it's a bit stronger as a keychain.

keychain scuba fins

submari

J3n50m4t

Doesn't work with iPhone in Vertical Mode. &nbsp;Remixed as I wanted to directly see my Watch in Standby-Mode. I removed triangles around the Magsafe and closed a gap at the Watch Charging Port. &nbsp;Note by the author <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/u/3462911183" rel="nofollow noopener">jpbruce</a>- The gap on the front of the Watch Charging port is only there to be able to fit the USB-C plug on the newer cables through the hole, as it is longer than the watch charging puck itself (It's not necessary if you have the older USB-A charging cable) - The cutouts around the MagSafe Puck are for the camera bump of the phones. Your phone will probably not sit flush on the charger without them, leading to worse charging efficiency.

Magsafe iPhone and Apple Watch Stand, angled 30°

apple

cz32532

Use 0.2mm nozzle , 0.10mm Layer height and Wall Generator: Arachne

Fallout Vault Boy Keychain

fallout

JAV-3D

3D-Druckanleitung: Miniatur-Bowlingbahn-Set mit Print-in-Place-AufbewahrungsboxEinführung: Erleben Sie mit dem 3D-gedruckten Miniatur-Bowlingbahn-Set eine unterhaltsame Mischung aus Kreativität und Spielspaß. Diese detaillierte Anleitung führt Sie durch den gesamten Druckprozess und bietet nützliche Tipps für eine reibungslose Umsetzung.Teil 1: Bestandteile des SetsStellen Sie sicher, dass Sie alle Teile des Sets ausdrucken:<ul><li>Die realistisch gestaltete Bowlingkugel für präzise Würfe.</li><li>Die 10 sorgfältig gestalteten Bowlingpins für ein authentisches Bowlinggefühl.</li><li>Die speziell entworfene Aufstellhilfe, um den perfekten Abstand der Pins zu gewährleisten.</li><li>Die Print-in-Place-Aufbewahrungsbox, die nicht nur für einen bequemen Transport, sondern auch für eine sichere Lagerung sorgt.</li></ul>Teil 2: Druckeinstellungen und FilamentwahlVerwenden Sie eine 0,4 mm Düse und wählen Sie Ihr bevorzugtes Filament. PLA bietet Flexibilität, während ABS eine robustere Option ist. Passen Sie die Druckeinstellungen an, um die beste Druckqualität zu erzielen.Teil 3: Druckprozess für jedes BauteilDrucken Sie die Bowlingkugel, Pins, Aufstellhilfe und die Aufbewahrungsbox separat aus. Achten Sie darauf, die Druckparameter gemäß Ihren Präferenzen zu konfigurieren.Teil 4: Nachbearbeitung und MontageEntfernen Sie sorgfältig alle Stützstrukturen und überprüfen Sie die Bauteile auf Druckfehler. Montieren Sie die Bowlingbahn, indem Sie die Aufstellhilfe, Pins und Kugel entsprechend anordnen.Teil 5: Individuelle Gestaltung und LackierungExperimentieren Sie mit verschiedenen Filamentfarben, um Ihre Bowlingkugel und Pins einzigartig zu gestalten. Feine Pinseldetails können für eine realistischere Optik hinzugefügt werden.Teil 6: Spielerlebnis und AufbewahrungGenießen Sie spannende Bowlingmomente auf Ihrem Tisch. Die Aufbewahrungsbox eignet sich nicht nur für den Transport, sondern schützt die Bauteile auch vor Staub und Beschädigungen zwischen den Spielen.Teil 7: Teilen Sie Ihre ErfahrungenTeilen Sie Ihre Druckeinstellungen, Designvariationen und Spielerfahrungen mit der Community. Ermutigen Sie andere, ihre eigenen einzigartigen Bowlingbahnen zu erstellen.Zusammenfassung: Das Miniatur-Bowlingbahn-Set bietet ein faszinierendes Zusammenspiel von 3D-Druckkunst und unterhaltsamem Spiel. Diese Anleitung ermöglicht es Ihnen, nicht nur ein beeindruckendes Set zu erstellen, sondern auch Ihre kreativen Ideen einzubringen und mit anderen zu teilen. Viel Spaß beim Drucken und Spielen!&nbsp;&nbsp;English Translation:&nbsp;3D Printing Guide: Miniature Bowling Alley Set with Print-in-Place Storage BoxIntroduction: Experience a delightful blend of creativity and gameplay with the 3D-printed Miniature Bowling Alley Set. This comprehensive guide takes you through the entire printing process and provides useful tips for a smooth execution.Part 1: Components of the SetEnsure you print all components of the set:<ul><li>The realistically designed bowling ball for precise throws.</li><li>The 10 carefully crafted bowling pins for an authentic bowling experience.</li><li>The specially designed setup aid to ensure the perfect pin spacing.</li><li>The print-in-place storage box, offering convenient transport and secure storage.</li></ul>Part 2: Print Settings and Filament ChoiceUse a 0.4 mm nozzle and choose your preferred filament. PLA offers flexibility, while ABS is a sturdier option. Adjust the print settings for optimal print quality.Part 3: Printing Process for Each ComponentPrint the bowling ball, pins, setup aid, and storage box separately. Ensure to configure print parameters according to your preferences.Part 4: Post-Processing and AssemblyCarefully remove all support structures and inspect the components for printing errors. Assemble the bowling alley by arranging the setup aid, pins, and ball accordingly.Part 5: Customization and PaintingExperiment with different filament colors to make your bowling ball and pins unique. Fine brush details can be added for a more realistic appearance.Part 6: Gaming Experience and StorageEnjoy exciting bowling moments on your table. The storage box is not only suitable for transportation but also protects the components from dust and damage between games.Part 7: Share Your ExperiencesShare your print settings, design variations, and gaming experiences with the community. Encourage others to create their unique bowling alleys.Summary: The Miniature Bowling Alley Set offers a captivating interplay of 3D printing artistry and entertaining gameplay. This guide allows you to not only create an impressive set but also contribute your creative ideas and share them with others. Have fun printing and playing!

Mini Table Bowling Set

chorradas

cwills75

***Update 2*** Another user reported that this extension cable works with the AMS Lite to extend it if you do not want to make your own: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802718701254.html" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802718701254.html</a> ***Update 1*** I've uploaded a new angled wall mount as I had requests for one. Depending on which direction you mount it, the PTFE tubes will either angle up or down slightly. I have some pictures uploaded with it mounted at an upward angle. This does move it out a little over an inch further from the wall, which was necessary to make sure all of the spools cleared. The mounting holes, TPU gasket and TPU cable channel do not change, so if you have already printed/mounted the non-angled one, you can use the same gasket, cable channel and mounting holes as the first one if you want to switch. This is a wall mount for the Bambu A1 Mini AMS Lite. It doesn't require the original AMS Lite stand to save space and make a more clean design. The main wall mount uses four screws on either side to connect the AMS Lite to. The original stand only uses two screws per side, but it has holes for four. All eight holes are untapped and when you insert screws, it will self-tap threads into the plastic, just as the screws that Bambu supplies for this purpose do. The walls of the mount have also been increased in thickness from the original stand, so the stock screws Bambu supplies are too short. This thickness increase adds much more rigidity to the stand. There is a 3mm thick gasket that is the size of the base of the wall mount, designed to be printed in TPU and placed between the mount and the wall. This is to help reduce any vibration from the AMS Lite being transmitted into the wall, along with some slight strain relief. Finally, there is a cable channel piece that should also be printed in TPU, which is then inserted into the bottom of the mount. You can then press-fit the AMS Lite cable into this channel, which will keep it out of the way from possibly catching on your spools. The AMS Lite can be mounted upside-down, and you will have to do that if you don't make/purchase an extension cable, as the cable is very short. Ideally, you should obtain or make an extension cable, allowing you to mount the AMS Lite in the proper position so the numbers are right-side up, and then the AMS spool slots will correspond correctly in the Bambu Studio slicer and A1 AMS screen. With the AMS Lite mounted correctly, the cable will come out of the top, feed through the center of the wall mount and then down through the cable channel. I have been playing with the vertical placement of my AMS Lite, along with the distance of it to the A1 Mini to see how much I can shorten the PTFE tubes without having any issues. I have had limited success with printing some harder shore TPU from the AMS Lite, but if in doubt, mount it higher than I have mine in the pictures and don't cut your PTFE tubing. Like I said, I'm still experimenting and don't mind buying some extra PTFE tubing as it is cheap. Just make sure wherever you mount it, each AMS slot can reach the A1 extruder head in all positions it can move (left to right, and up and down). You should also use some common sense regarding wall mounting your AMS Lite. It isn't terribly heavy, even when loaded with four full spools. A full spool is roughly 2.2 lbs, so the entire assembly with the wall mount, AMS Lite and spools is probably 12-13 lbs total. Ideally, the wall mount can be mounted into a wall stud, but even if mounting in drywall, relatively basic drywall anchors are capable of holding around 40-50 lbs. Still, if mounting in drywall, I would recommend heavy duty drywall anchors for piece of mind. Most local hardware stores sell drywall anchors that can individually hold well over 100 lbs. For print settings, it doesn't really matter much how you print the TPU pieces. I wouldn't print them with very high infill, maybe like 10-15% so they still have some squish to them. The cable channel piece should fit snugly in the hole of the wall mount. I cannot predict all the materials, profile settings and ambient temperatures of everyone's setup, so giving you exact settings on printing the wall mount for the best strength is something you should work out for yourself. I would recommend using a PLA+ or Pro or Tough filament, which is a lot stronger than basic PLA. I made mine with PolyLite PLA Pro with 50% infill, slower speeds and low fan speeds to increase layer bonding. Obviously the faster you print things, and the more fan that you use, the weaker your parts are. If in doubt, do some test prints of cylinders and then try snapping them in half to see what settings you are happy with. Bambu's PLA Tough is very similar to PolyLite PLA Pro, and would also be a good choice. PETG would also be a good choice, and I have had many garage tools, jack stands, hose mounts, etc., made with PETG hanging in my garage for years with no issues. For mounting the AMS Lite to the wall mount, you will need eight #4 x ½" pan head sheet meal screws. To mount the wall mount to the wall, #10 x 1 ½" screws are recommended for mounting in wall studs. If you are mounting in drywall, use your best judgement based on my advice above. Unfortunately, the biggest issue with wall mounting this is the short AMS Lite cable length. I ended up using these parts to make my a cable. I had everything on-hand except the male/female connectors, but I will post links for everything required if you were to build a cable from scratch and do not have any of the other parts. The connectors are Molex Micro-Fit 3.0 2x2. They are cheapest on Aliexpress, but you can get them faster from Amazon here: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078Q798L9" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078Q798L9</a> There may be crimpers that are cheaper, but this is the pair I have and used to crimp the connectors onto the wires: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YGLKBSK/" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YGLKBSK/</a> Most thin wires you have on-hand will probably work, as the AMS Lite doesn't send much voltage/current through. I used this: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G2LRX68/" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G2LRX68/</a> If you would like to make your cable look nice and clean/professional, I would also recommend some braided sleeving: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FTN4VSP" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FTN4VSP</a> And some heat shrink tubing for the two ends: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B1D19LVW/" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B1D19LVW/</a> I have an image uploaded that shows the correct pinout for the extension cable ends. If you've never crimped connectors like this before, there are some Youtube videos such as this one that shows the basic process: <figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1ErLvXlOTs"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/D1ErLvXlOTs" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure> Alternatively, Molex sells male-to-male and female-to-female pre-wired Micro-Fit 3.0 cables, and they have various distributors that also sell them such as Digi-Key and Mouser Electronics. This would probably be the easiest method to extend your AMS Lite cable if you are not used to creating your own cables connector ends/wires. You can go to Molex's site here: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.molex.com/en-us/part-list/cable-assemblies?taxonomyPathValueLast=Power+and+Signal+Cable+Assemblies&physical_circuitsLoaded=4&materialMaster_promotable=true&physical_numberOfRows=2&productNameList=Micro-Fit+3.0&page=2&general_connectorToConnector=Micro-Fit+3.0+Both+Ends" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.molex.com/en-us/part-list/cable-assemblies?taxonomyPathValueLast=Power+and+Signal+Cable+Assemblies&physical_circuitsLoaded=4&materialMaster_promotable=true&physical_numberOfRows=2&productNameList=Micro-Fit+3.0&page=2&general_connectorToConnector=Micro-Fit+3.0+Both+Ends</a> And look for the parts you would like, and see what distributors show stock in your location. Molex makes 150mm, 300mm and 600mm cables, and as you will need a M-M and F-F cable and then plug them into each other to create a M-F extension cable, your total cable length would then be 300mm, 600mm or 1200mm. They also sell versions with tin-plated or gold-plated connectors. I made my extension cable about a foot and a half (450ish mm), and have no issues with the AMS Lite operation. As with anything electrical, the longer you extend a cable, and the more adapters/connectors from the source to the target, you have the possibility for more cable resistance, resistance based heat, signal loss, etc, so Vulcan logic would dictate to use the shortest extension cable length necessary for your application. ;) Once everything is printed and an extension cable is made, installation is easy: 1. Determine where you are going to mount the AMS Lite, ideally on a wall stud. 2. Place the TPU gasket or wall mount vertically on the wall and mark the two mounting hole positions. 3. Drill appropriately sized holes in the wall/studs. 4. Place the TPU gasket between the wall and the mount and use two screws to mount the wall mount to the wall. 5. Place the AMS Lite into the wall mount (a helper is useful here for an extra hand or two), and feed the AMS Lite cable through the wall mount, then insert all eight screws, securing the AMS Lite to the mount. 6. Insert the TPU cable channel piece into the bottom of the wall mount, pull the AMS Lite cable taught and press-fit the cable into the TPU piece. 7. Attach the AMS Lite cable to the extension cable you made, and plug the extension cable into the A1 Mini.

Bambu A1 Mini AMS Lite Heavy Duty Wall Mount

Juanjo 

fay3dlab

I saw πxel8ed version of the suspended millenium falcon and i was inspired to make my own version.. i thought making the ship facing front with the strings looking like the streaking of lightspeed.. the falcon model by aaskedall from thingerverse was already a great design so i just used his model as a remix.. i did have to slightly change the model so it will print for a smaller version for my suspended millenium falcon..&nbsp;UPDATE:I have uploaded a new version model V3 that can be color picked for multicolor printing.. just learned how to do it.. unfortunately i cant edit the old print profile.. so you'll have to add them manually&nbsp;UPDATE 2:I made a LED version of the suspended millennium falcon that is backlite using led strips.. it is an addon part that will connected to the suspended ship.. so you just have to print the addon LED parts only.. not the whole ship.. i've upload the file at <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/models/113145" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/models/113145</a> <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/491035/2023-12-30_4312a40409637.gif">

Suspended Millennium Falcon

star wars

Jopek Design

<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/584741/2024-01-28_e9pr5vttsoh0.png"></figure><h4>Dimensions (LxWxH)</h4>170 x 69 x 37mm (100% scale)<h4>Basic information</h4>Prints in place, no assembly is needed. The body is divided into 5 movable segments, which allow a wide range of motion, and grant the model with lifelike feel and movement. Besides the base, single color file, I've also included 3 multicolor files, so if you have a setup capable of printing with at least 3 colors, definitely try it out. It lifts the appearance of the model to a next level, with minimal waste and effort. Alternatively, you can add a simple color change to your gcode, and manually paint the eyes afterwards. <h4>Files information</h4>You can choose from 4 files: All of them are in the .stl format, and sorted into 2 folders. The folders are labeled Single color and Multicolor, the single color folder contains 1 file, which is a plain, 1 piece version of the model, intended for single color printing. The Multicolor folder contains 3 files for multicolor printing, each file is named after the color, which was used on the example model in the image gallery. Import them all at once into your slicer as one file with multiple parts, and it should automatically align the parts, and assign an individual color to each of them. This design is a part of the Articulated Sea Life collection by me. You can check out other designs from this collection <a href="https://www.printables.com/cs/@JD3d_289531/collections/700909" rel="nofollow">here</a>.The Articulated Sea Life collection is a live project, and I'm continuously adding new designs, anytime I get an interesting idea, or a suggestion. The designs are also updated, if any changes or tweaks have to be made. Feedback, suggestions and ideas are welcome!<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/584741/2024-01-28_ahe0jh35bmgs.png"></figure><h4>Material</h4> PLA<h4>Layer height</h4> 0,2 mm<h4>Infill</h4>>15%<h4>Support</h4>None. The model doesn't need any support material.<h4>Scaling</h4>Possible, but mind the accuracy of your setup. If you go too far with your scaling experiments, you might run into issues such as fused segments, or fragile links. <h4>Orientation</h4>Default, laid flat on the belly<h4>Adhesion aid</h4>Not necessary, the contact area with the buildplate should be sufficient. However if your print surface suffers from poor adhesion, consider using an adhesive spray, or some other kind of adhesion booster. Using a brim is possible, but not recommended, as it would be too difficult, and inconvenient to remove afterwards.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/584741/2024-01-28_k311qketlbfv.png"></figure>This section contains a list of all updates and fixes, which were introduced to the model along the way. Each update will be thoroughly explained, so that you know, which issue was each specific update addressing. If you're having any problems with the model, you can check here, if a new, revised version of the model, has already been released in a response to your problem, or not. If you run into any issues with the model, please pay a visit to a section of known issues, which can be found just below the Updates and fixes. If you won't find your specific problem in there, don't hesitate to contact me via dm!<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/584741/2024-01-28_npvubb7nnmtx.png"></figure>There currently aren't any known issues/work in progress. If you run into any, please contact me via dm.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/584741/2024-01-28_244s357uyzu8.png"></figure>My work is free for personal, non commercial use. If you want to sell, or monetize my models in other way, please contact me via dm, and we will discuss details, terms and conditions, and your individual pricing plan.