One7Seven

cartyski

Struggling to open jars of all shapes and sizes? Say goodbye to stubborn lids with this jar opener designed to fit them all!

OPENSESAME3000 - Jar Tool

Various

Ian Smalley - hueforge

Filament painted print made using HueForge - Filament swaps ONLY, no mmu/ams required&nbsp;3 Colour ‘Filament Painting’ model - Op-Art Zebra Portrait, made using Bambu filaments.&nbsp;(I recommend the following speed settings for the bambu with 0.04 layers, inner walls, outer walls and gap infill - 200mm/s, sparse infill, internal solid infill and top surface - 150mm/s)&nbsp;Leave The Aux fan off on the bambu as it causes more harm than good on these larger prints&nbsp;Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.04mm with a base layer of 0.24mmFilaments Used: PLA Bambu PLA Matte Charcoal Transmission Distance: 0.6 PLA Bambu PLA Tough Cream White Transmission Distance: 10 PLA Bambu PLA Matte Ivory White Transmission Distance: 4&nbsp;Swap Instructions: Start with Charcoal At layer #7 (0.48mm) swap to Cream White At layer #22 (1.08mm) swap to Ivory White for the rest. This is a filament blending model, I would recommend trying to match the td as close as possible if not using the exact filaments to get the best results.Use the exact numbers in your slicer to match up properly.Two different size models are supplied and designed to print with 0.4 nozzle **If Scaling the model make sure not to adjust the Z-Height of the model**&nbsp;ALL of Ian Smalley's designs are protected by Copyright Law. Downloading does not give you permission to use the files or physical prints for financial gain. If you want a commercial license to Legally sell prints from my designs, you will need a SELLER subscription.

Op-Art Zebra Portrait (Filament Painting)

Hueforge

daniel.cedeno

A simple bracket mount to adapt a Dayton BST-1 bass shaker to 8020 aluminum extrusions. You will need the following hardware per shaker:&nbsp;<ul><li>(4) M4 x 20mm screws</li><li>(4) M4 nylon locknuts</li><li>(4) M4 washers</li><li>(4) 4mm rubber grommets (optional)</li><li>(4) M8 x 25mm screws</li><li>(4) M8 washers</li><li>(4) M8 Lock washers</li><li>(4) M8 T-nutz</li></ul>I uploaded the original STEP file if you would like to modify it to your hardware.&nbsp;File updated to increase clearance on M8 bolts.&nbsp;&nbsp;

Dayton BST-1 Bass Shaker 8020 Bracket Mount

Sim Racing

Rincewind76

This is an adaptation of the Voron Stealthburner Printhead to be used with the hotend of Bambu Lab X1C/X1The Bambu Lab X1C and X1 printers show an impressive performance and quality - using a special hotend.The performance of the hotend of the Bambu Lab X1C/X1 is comparable to the Rapido hotend, but the price is only a fraction of the Rapido. &nbsp;So Sam Schmidt from the Voron/Bambu Facebook group designed an adapter for the Bambu hotend to be used in a V6 like manner in Stealthburner. MrTeliP improved the design and I adapted it to be more reuseable.&nbsp;The heat insert should be M3, 5mm diameter, length 3,5-4mmThe screws have to be M3x14, see pictures.

Voron Stealthburner Printhead for Bambu X1C/X1 Hotend

Voron

Brandon Raineri

<h2>Updates</h2><h3>Version 2.1 (09/27/23)</h3><ul><li>Added lead-ins to the filament entry cavity</li><li>Changed PTFE stop ledge angle at filament exit end</li><li>Added note about countersinking PTFE that enters the printer</li><li>Updated printing profiles</li><li>Added additional sources for the release rings so they can be purchased outside of the US</li></ul><h3>Version 2</h3><ul><li>Added through hole for an M3x20mm mounting screw. Printed with a 0.4mm nozzle at 0.10mm layer height</li><li>Added printable locking clip STL file to eliminate backlash in fitting/PTFE tube when pulled on</li><li>Print with single inlet side on the build plate. Add a 10mm brim to stabilize the print</li></ul><h3>Version 1</h3><h2>Background</h2>This allows you to run material from the AMS or external spool without having to disconnect the PTFE tubing.This uses push to connect fittings as you would see in a typical PTFE connector.&nbsp;<h3>Release Rings: QTY: 3 of PC4-UM2</h3>I do NOT recommend the printed release rings as they are too fragile and do not securely hold the PTFE tube into place.&nbsp;Amazon (<a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B282NZVW?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B282NZVW?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1</a> )AliExpress (<a target="_blank" href="https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804490680277.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804490680277.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt</a>)McMaster (<a target="_blank" href="https://www.mcmaster.com/5472K101/" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.mcmaster.com/5472K101/</a>)<h2>Installation</h2>Push the retaining ring into each end. After you insert the PTFE tubing until it bottoms out, pull back so the release ring has a gap between it and the printed surface. Insert the locking clip into this gap and then push the PTFE back in so it seats. This removes any backlash so the end of the PTFE tube remains firmly in contact with the bottom of the bore.&nbsp;While not always required, I found it helps to countersink the PTFE tube entering the printer as it provides a lead-in to prevent snags.&nbsp;You also need to ensure the printer buffer operates as intended. The PTFE tube exiting the buffer needs to clear the AMS clip going into the back of the printer. This prevents any unwanted resistance to the buffer and let‘s it operate as intended. If not, you can see what looks to be like a partial clog or even failure to retract filament.