Nkshafer2

Josh-3D

[Introduction]6/27/2024 - I just wanted to say thank you to everyone that has downloaded and printed the shuffler! I&#39;ve had a few bumps in the road, and a few bugs to work out. I appreciate you all, the comments, the suggestions, and I&#39;m sorry for any of the issues caused by trying to get these early bug fixes and everything out there. It&#39;s like my own little No Man&#39;s Sky! My personal A1 Launch, haha. &nbsp;I had to adjust the model for sleeved cards, and I realized that might have caused some troubles for those that might have started printing the original one and then tried switching to the updated version. If it makes you feel any better, I&#39;ve got a whole pile of parts from upgrading the ones I made prior to my o-ring fix. &nbsp;I&#39;ve updated the instructions with some written notes to help clarify the assembly where needed. Hopefully I&#39;ve covered everything. &nbsp;I&#39;ve updated the BOM to include the o-rings properly for when you go to buy the parts from Maker&#39;s Supply. &nbsp;6/23/2024 - Minor Update. I had updated the profiles, but the X1/P1/A1 Profile didn&#39;t get updated correctly, it appears. I&#39;m very sorry about this. I&#39;ve just updated it and verified. If you want to make sure you have the latest, it&#39;s simple; the original had a plate for the TPU rollers all their own, but in the new profiles, they are part of the plate with the shafts since they are PLA now, with O-Rings. &nbsp;6/22/2024 - Big Update! I adjusted the model to accommodate sleeved cards. I had to ditch the TPU rollers. They worked for the most part for un-sleeved cards, but weren&#39;t perfect. For sleeved cards, it was no good. Luckily for me, Bambu started to carry O-rings on the Maker Supply, and Bob&#39;s your uncle, we&#39;re in business. It&#39;s much better. As much as I wanted to like TPU rollers, they were just still too smooth. I&#39;ll update the BOM section fully once I can link to the Maker&#39;s Supply entry for the o-rings. They are easy to find elsewhere too though like on amazon, or even your local hardware store for that matter. &nbsp;This update has a slightly longer base, so all the mid sections are a little longer. Ends/gears all stay the same. It&#39;s been working well for sleeve and unsleeved cards for me, in the Skip-bo to regular playing card size. Should be able to handle things like MTG and your other beloved sleeved card games. <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-06-22_250e879bcf392.png"></figure><figure class="media"><oembed url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2rctBx6R20"></oembed></figure>I haven&#39;t been to keen on the card shufflers available commercially, and feel most of the ones designed for 3d printing don&#39;t really elevate themselves to a consumer level product. Thus, this card shuffler was born. I wanted something stylistic, and not just functional. Inspired by old printing presses, with those cast iron frames. Although, it looks a bit like a boiler too, I&#39;d say.&nbsp;Sized for standard playing cards. (64x89mm + plus sleeves, or there abouts, is the max size card it&#39;ll shuffle). I sized it to be able to shuffle a full skip-bo deck, which is 160 cards. It can do about 80 sleeved cards, in testing. Might have to make an extra tall version for bigger decks and big sleeved decks! &nbsp;It&#39;s been running smoothly for me, especially since upgrading to O-rings. The grip on them is much better than the original TPU rollers. There are occasional jams that happen, when the cards don&#39;t fall right. I think as long as you aren&#39;t going too slow and keep a good pace, usually it&#39;s fine. Sometimes it helps to shift the whole thing back and fort slightly to shake the cards loose and get them to settle. &nbsp;[Hardware Required]&nbsp;Featured FilamentsBambu PLA Metallic Iron GrayBambu PLA Metallic Copper BrownBambu PETG-CF Brick Red&nbsp;Bambu PLA Galaxy NebulaBambu PLA Glow GreenBambu PLA Metallic Copper Brown&nbsp;Bambu Matte Grass GreenBambu Marine BlueBambu Lemon Yellow&nbsp;Notes about PrintingAs Noted, you&#39;ll want TPU for the pads. At least that&#39;s what I designed and set them up for. I also set them up to use fuzzy skin, to hopefully give a little more texture to grab onto the cards. &nbsp;I highly recommend using a smooth PEI bed. (It&#39;s not required, and you can absolutely print the whole thing on your bed of choice. I just highly recommend the Smooth PEI bed for PLA because it holds well, and for smaller parts with a thin profile on the bed, it tends to hold much better. Like the spacers I use in step 4.)&nbsp;Hardware Required :36x M2.6x8mm Self Tapping Screws (Bambu&#39;s BT2.6x8mm self tapping screws) (From the <a target="_blank" href="https://us.store.bambulab.com/collections/self-tapping-screws/products/bt2-6-socket-head-cap-self-tapping-screw-shcs" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu US Store</a>)9x MR128 Ball Bearings (inner = 8mm, outer 12mm, height = 3.5mm, such as <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-MR128-2RS-Groove-Bearings-Double/dp/B082PPLHLQ" rel="nofollow noopener">this one from Amazon</a>, or from the <a target="_blank" href="https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/steel-deep-groove-ball-bearings?variant=42104893243528" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu US store</a>)4 O-Rings OD 24x2.5mm  ( From the <a target="_blank" href="https://us.store.bambulab.com/collections/makers-supply/products/o-rings?variant=42561621753992" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu US Store</a>)&nbsp;[Upgrading from the TPU Roller version]<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 51.3%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-06-22_ca78189d57b3b.png"></figure>If you&#39;ve already printed the card shuffler, but want to upgrade, please refer to the above graphic for the parts you&#39;ll need to reprint. Make sure you print 2 of the axels, pad drums, and the card holder/bracket. In addition you&#39;ll need two extra screws to secure the drums to the axels, and the 4 O-rings. &nbsp;If all you want to do is upgrade the pad drums, then you should be able to slide them on the original axles, however be aware that they aren&#39;t secured with friction like the TPU pads were, so you might need to glue them or use some other method to fix them once installed, if the fit is too loose. The new axels are slightly longer, but also have a hole for a self tapping screw to tap into. &nbsp;&nbsp;[Assembly]<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-06-15_2b08e90375684.png"></figure>Step1: Screw the end plates on. <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-06-15_1adb06ad5af73.png"></figure>Step2: Assemble the two side card holders, then slot them in and screw them into the main body. <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-06-22_b1c84149db724.png"></figure>Step3: <ul><li>Install the o-rings onto the two drums.</li><li>Install the bearing on the end of the shaft and then screw the end cap into place to keep it secure. </li><li>Insert the drum into place, and then insert the shaft through the drum and the main body. Install the set screw to set the drum into place.</li></ul>(Caution: Do not overtighten! Loosen screw a little of bearings bind)<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-06-15_425faf6ab974b.png"></figure>Step4: <ul><li>Insert the bearings onto the shafts, followed by the spacer and then the gear. Make sure the bearing is fully seated.</li><li>Make sure the gears are orientated right. The Arrow pattern on the gear should point in the direction of travel. Inward! </li><li>Screw the gears into place. </li></ul>(Caution: Do not overtighten! Loosen screw a little if gears bind)<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-06-22_d5066862b49a4.png"></figure>Step5:<ul><li>The Tricky part</li><li>For each gear there is a gear peg and the bearing. Insert the bearing into the end plate, and insert the gear peg into the gear. Make sure the gears are fully seated.</li><li>I insert the small gear and then the large one. With the large one I try and angle it in a little, and use a little force to jam it into place. </li><li>You&#39;ll want to try and rotate the pads so the flat ends are opposite each other before installing the large gear. </li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-06-16_928514e5c2088.png"></figure>Step6: Insert the bearings into the gear bracket and make sure they are fully seated. Screw the bracket into place. <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-06-16_5e459d17a32f3.png"></figure>Step7: <ul><li>Insert the bearing into the crank arm, and then sandwich it between the peg and knob, and secure it with a screw. </li><li>Screw the crank arm onto the large gear&#39;s shaft with an end cap to help keep it secured. </li><li>Shuffle some cards! </li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-06-15_9c88d6ec0f9ee.png"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497170/design/2024-06-15_c4986513a4b3f.png"></figure>&nbsp;-------If you like my work, consider showing your love by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/josh3d" rel="nofollow noopener">Buying me a coffee</a>. Additionally, if you&#39;re looking to sell prints of my design, please check out my <a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/josh3d/" rel="nofollow noopener">Patreon</a> page for more information. on.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

Card Shuffler

game stuff 

Osprey Designs

This model used the parametric latch-style box model created by @Hugo adapted to fit @jponky Accessories Tray for A1 Mini. This latch-style design removes the need for additional hardware and makes the design more durable.

Sturdy Latch Style Accessory Box For A1 mini 

bambu accessories 

Stag 3D

<h2>Who ya gonna call?</h2>Get ghost bustin’ with this life-size replica of the Ghostbusters Ghost trap, featuring opening doors and decor matching the original. &nbsp;The perfect print for fans of the Ghostbusters franchise.&nbsp;Assembly<ol><li>Push fit the handle into place</li><li>Place the hinges over the pins on the doors and then push fit into place</li><li>Choose your desired location for the outer decals and superglue them into position</li></ol><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:100%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000442199/design/57413873-da4c-42b5-9a1e-4504ef9ec6a2.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;

Ghostbusters Ghost Trap

to print

Llλmbda

Edit: added a second plate for Lid without supports as requested by user, added new plate for different orientation of spots, added new plate for one piece flower body if anyone wants to AMS multicolor it Yet ANOTHER Mario themed piggy bank model! This time we have a GIANT 2ft tall piranha plant floor bank! This model was originally meant to be a coin sorter as well but after many failed iterations I decided to just have it be a spiral ramp as all the designed I tried I could not acheive 100% success on the coin sorting. This piggy bank is LARGE and has many parts!  This is not meant to be a toy or moved around constantly and is meant more as a floor decor piece that you can throw loose change into as you walk in. Printing in orientation provided will be successful but will leave some slight blemishes on the underside of the rounded edges. Once everything is assembled these areas are hardly noticeable so its user choice of if you would rather have a slightly wonky bottom that can probably be nailed with great supports, or a seam where you glued the pieces together. Cut versions are provided on seperate plates All connectors have a tolerance of .2mm and should fit easily into the provided holes, glue both halves of the ramp together as well as the bottom piece. Glue your spots onto your flower body, then attach the plant lips to the flower body, mine fit so snugly in place I didn't even have to glue it. Slide your flower body over the top of the coin funnel and it should fit into place with some slight persuasion, once that is seated and glued you may then add the top of the coin funnel to the ramp. Glue your teeth in place and youre good to go!  If you're worried about stability you can glue the entire vine into the top of the lid to hold it in place. Happy Printing!

Mario Piranha Plant Large Spiral Piggy Bank

mario stuff to print

reddadsteve

Garfield, from an American comic strip, Garfield, created by Jim Davis.He is characterized as being lazy, obsessed with eating, has a love of coffee and lasagna, a disdain of Mondays and diets. Garfield is also shown to manipulate people to get whatever he wants.No supports are required. Two optional parts are supplied if you prefer to paint the stripes instead of using the supplied stripes (see very important notes below about the stripes). If you have the proper filament colors, no painting is needed.The assembled model is 165mm tall.Enjoy!...........................................................................................................Special shoutout to maker Benoît Lussier for providing QA printing and quality feedback. Benoît also provided the instructions for printing and applying the stripes. **Important** See notes below and extra text file about the stripes. Be warned, the application of the stripes can be tricky............................................................................................................**Print Instructions:** Supports: No Resolution: .2mm Infill: 10%Notes: ...........................................................................................................**Building the model**ColorsBlack: (Paramount3D PLA - Black) eye_black_right eye_black_left ear_black_left ear_black_right face_dots (contains six pieces of various shapes for texture) tail_black ..Yellow: (Paramount3D PLA - Simpson Yellow) mouth ..White: (Paramount3D PLA - White) eye_whites ..Orange: (Paramount3d PLA - Mc Laren Orange) body_top body_top_smooth (optional piece without indents for stripes) body_bottom eyelids foot_left foot_right tail_orange tail_orange_smooth (optional piece without indents for stripes) ..Pink: (CookieCad PLA - Hot Pink) nose ..Color change printing at .2mm layer height with two black layers and two orange layers: 1_flat 2_flat 3_flat 4_flat 5_flat 6_flat 7_flat 8a_flat 8b_flat 1_tail_stripe 2_tail_stripe 3_tail_stripe ..Any color: (hidden piece): pin_body .............................................................................................................**Printing and assembly tips**Printing tips 1 - No supports are required. Two optional parts are provided, body_top_smooth and tail_orange_smooth, if you prefer to paint the stripes instead of using the supplied stripes. The regular parts have slight indents in them to help guide the gluing of the supplied stripes.2 - There are some pieces that may need brims or rafts, use your discretion. When setting up my prints I prefer to be conservative to ensure the least chance of a print failure, especially since the base of many parts are hidden when inserted into another part. *I used brims on: - face_dots - eye_black_left - eye_black_right3 - **Important** The stripes need to be printed with a color change. Printing at .2mm layer height, the first two layers are black and the top two layers are orange. Note to Simplify3D users. S3D typically defaults to 150% first layer height and must be changed to 100% for the stripes to be printed correctly with the color change.4 - Be sure to read the file 'stripe notes.txt'. It was put together by Benoît as part of his QA testing. 5 - Due to the shape of the body_bottom piece, it is a good idea to print it at a lower layer height. This is not required, just suggested for a smoother looking part..6 - The eye_black parts and face_dots are very small. It may be wise to print extra copies in case you drop them.7 - The face holes for the face_dots are sized to fit 1.75mm filament as an option to printing the small dots. You can cut a peice of filament to put in the hole directly instead of printing the dots. I posted the dots to allow people that resize models up to have a proper part to put in the holes.8 - When removing parts from the printer bed, it's a **VERY** good idea to place left/right parts into separate containers to help with the assembly process. Sometimes the difference between the left and right parts is very small but it is still worth keeping track of them and assembling them in their proper place... Assembly tips:1 - Take your time gluing the model together and enjoy the process. Give some thought into which parts to glue together as groups and then gluing the groups together. Let the glue for each group set completely before combining groups.2 - **Important** Be sure to download and read the file 'stripe notes.txt'. It was put together by Benoît as part of his QA testing. I think he did a better job than I did in applying the stripes.3 - I used 3D Gloop and E6000 to put this model together. Each type of glue has different pros/cons and I found that 3D Gloop was far easier to use than superglue (for me). The E6000 sticky glue that I also use allows more time to position parts and is still the best for smaller parts. 3D Gloop covers the middle ground for me and really works wonders. It leaves enough time to set, so parts can be positioned correctly and it dries fast enough to hold awkward parts without the need for taping. I used the PLA version that comes in a tube. For both glues using a smaller amount is usually better than more glue.4 - Refer to the assembly diagrams in the pictures section as well as the uploaded pictures for putting the model together. The model is meant to be glued.Do not hesitate to ask questions, feedback is essential to making better models.&nbsp;&nbsp;