NYC2Rosemnt

Toprototyp

Do you happen to overflow your plants? If so, a pot with a tray will help you solve this problem - in case of overflow, the excess water will drain into the tray.This planter consists of two parts - its lower part is the water tray, while the upper part is the pot, which has holes to drain excess water. If you happen to overflow your plant, just pour the water out of the tray and you're done!&nbsp;Tips for printing this model: - orientation: all uploaded files are in the correct orientation, - scale: scale the model

WAVE ALOE PLANTER

vases

WE3D Models

My version of the DeWalt 20v Battey Holders. More compact and uses less (still fits 20v batteries)&nbsp; I do not own the DeWalt logo. It is recommended to not paint the logo if selling the print. Print logo at your own risk! &nbsp;Please consider checking out my <a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/WE_3D" rel="nofollow noopener">Patreon</a> (WE3D Patreon).&nbsp;Enjoy!

DeWalt 20v Battery Holder

Garage

bensbigolbeard

<h2>An Icosahedron made of bevel gears.</h2><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/461626/2023-10-04_58621e1768a8e.gif"></figure>&nbsp;<h3>Assembly</h3><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/461626/2024-01-27_56dec3bf3a3588.gif"></figure><h3>Text Assembly Instructions:</h3>Some folks have had trouble following the video above (sry, it's not as clear as I'd hoped), so here are some alternate instructions. The image shows the process, working from top left to bottom right.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/461626/2023-10-22_97301cb6256.png"></figure>Image 1<ul><li>The first image above shows two large gears attached to the core, with one small gear in between them.</li><li>Point the larger gears' pointed teeth straight up (i just took the pin out on the opposite side, so it could sit flat for the pic). These points are indicated in red in the image.</li><li>Looking at the small gear, locate the three sides of the small triangle on the back and make sure that the insets (indicated with red “V”s in the image) are angled to accept the larger gears' pointed teeth.</li><li>You should then be able to add the next large gear with the point up, like you see in the first image.</li></ul>Image 2<ul><li>The second image shows the model flipped over 180 degrees, sitting on flat of the small gear that was just on top</li><li>Stick on the last large gear to the pin pointed up (it can be in any orientation at first)</li></ul>Image 3<ul><li>Find an empty gear slot and point it upwards.</li><li>Orient the large gears so the points are now pointing up around the empty small gear slot, similar to their orientation in the first image.</li><li>Pop in the small gear, with those triangle corner inset areas accepting the large gears' points</li></ul>Image 4<ul><li>repeat the previous step until all of the empty small-gear slots are file</li></ul>That should leave you with everything in the correct arrangement! The pins will fully seat after the initial turns, so you might hear them pop into place. If you still encounter issues, I'm active in the comments and would be happy to help troubleshoot.&nbsp;Background: I love <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/245028-three-cube-gears" rel="nofollow noopener">this gear cube</a> and it made me want to explore how to apply that approach to other platonic solids. For some stupid reason I picked the Icosahedron and the additional geometric complexity kicked my butt days. It would have probably been easier if I could math good, but that's not the case… I still prefer how much the gear cube deforms so significantly in it's intermediate states, but the icosahedron is still a satisfying fidget. I might explore some alternative ways to break up the shape to introduce some more deformation, while retaining the smooth gearing. Printing notes:<ul><li>If the gears begin to get loose, replacing the pins with newly printed ones will likely tighten it right up.</li><li>To that end, printing the pins in a more friction resistant material and adding a bit of grease/lubrication can extend their life</li></ul>Print profile updates (for the ones I've uploaded): 10/8/23:<ul><li>Print order changed to outer/inner/infill for better dimensional accuracy</li><li>Brim added to pins for improved bed adhesion for most plate types</li><li>New pins only profile, in case you still have bed adhesion issues or need a fresh set, if the originals wear out</li></ul>10/22/23:<ul><li>I updated the stand-alone STL and 3mf files to include the brim and orientation tweaks from the previous update</li></ul>

Icosahedron Gears Fidget Toy

JDJDJD

<h2>Meet the Smoothy!</h2>The Smoothy is a PTFE Bowden Tube Y Connector designed for smooth filament transport without catching or binding. This allows you to use an external spool with your Bambu Lab machine without disconnecting your PTFE Bowden Tubes.&nbsp;PTFE tubes are inserted deep into the connector for less wear on the FDM material. This allows for silky smooth operation.&nbsp;As the filament progresses towards the output, it passes through a precisely-designed taper that mates perfectly with the output bowden tube.&nbsp;All PTFE tubes must be inserted until each “stop” is reached (see cutaway diagram).&nbsp;Connectors must be the black type (not blue). The black connectors allow the PTFE tube to “pass thru” which is required for the design to work smoothly: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B97RWKQR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B97RWKQR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1</a>&nbsp;<h2>BENEFITS:</h2><ul><li>No Supports</li><li>No Overhangs</li><li>No Brims</li><li>Optimized Geometry</li><li>Designed for FDM Printing</li><li>Smooth Operation</li><li>Supports both PC4-M6 and PC4-M10 “pass thru“ connectors</li><li>Free to Download!</li></ul><h2>UPDATES:</h2><ul><li>The Smoothy Mount is now available! Download here: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/18190" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/18190</a> The mount is not required, but available to those who prefer to attach the Smoothy to their machines. Without the mount, it can simply rest in-line.</li><li>Both PC4-M6 and PC4-M10 connectors are now supported.</li></ul><h2>TIPS:</h2><ul><li>Make sure ALL bowden tubes are FULLY inserted until each one reaches its stop point. See cutaway diagram for an illustration.</li><li>The output tube does not insert as deep as the input tubes.</li><li>After inserting each tube, you can rotate the tubes back and forth while pressing inward slightly to make sure they&#39;re seated squarely and fully.</li><li>Glue Stick is recommended.</li><li>PTFE tubes must be cut squarely at the tip (no angled tips).</li><li>All PC4 connectors must be installed for a completed design with smooth operation.</li><li>Tested with a 0.4mm Nozzle and 0.2mm Layer Height.</li><li>Print vertically with wide dual-port side on the bed.</li><li>PC4 connectors typically have tapered threads. As such, make sure you don&#39;t over-tighten them as they can create a “wedge effect” and can cause damage.</li></ul><h2>NOTES:</h2><ul><li>These work well printed in PLA. More durable materials can be used, but it may require clearance adjustments.</li><li>I’m currently using this for my Bambu Lab X1C with an AMS, which utilizes an external spool.</li><li>This is the first model that I&#39;m sharing, I hope you enjoy it!</li><li>The Smoothy can be used commercially, but can&#39;t be resold.</li></ul>

vases

Garage

fun

Necessary accessories