N0rdLightz

KYZ Design

Update 04/03/2024 - License changed from “Standard Digital File License” to “CC-BY-NC-SA”. Multi-body STP file uploaded. Oh yeah, I over-engineered the hell out of this one! I went through more than 12 iterations and I think this is going to be my final version. The main challenge was designing outer walls that print without a million retractions so I didn’t want to just put regular holes and slots around the perimeter. These cheese grater looking holes are opened up both towards the inside and outside in alternating patterns creating quite large vent areas. Each section has a single line of extrusion per layer so it prints fast and isn’t too torturous for all 4 motors.&nbsp;I printed mine in clear polycarbonate and it was super easy because there aren’t any long straight walls that cause warping. ASA would also be a good choice but I chose polycarbonate so I can see the colour of the indicating desiccant without opening the canister.&nbsp;Design Objectives:<ul><li>Large vented surface area, even when installed into a spool, for quick drying of enclosed airspaces</li><li>Multiple cross-flow air paths for quick drying of desiccant without removal of the desiccant beads from the container</li><li>Design primarily for the Bambu reusable spools and sits flush with the sides of the spools. (However, as different manufacturers are converging on a more "standard" spool size thanks to the AMS, these should fit some other spool brands)</li><li>Work as a Bambu reusable spool's "spool shim" to prevent the spool pieces separating</li><li>Fast print, minimise filament retractions when printing vents on vertical walls</li><li>Strong and sturdy to last a long time - no vase mode</li><li>Desiccant cannot fall out when moving the holder between spools</li></ul>&nbsp;Print material:<ul><li>OK to use PLA if you don't plan on drying the desiccant inside the canisters</li><li>PETG recommended as a minimum if you want to dry the desiccant gently without removing them from the canisters</li><li>ASA/ABS/PC recommended</li></ul>Print settings:<ul><li>For Bambu users: print from the app.<ul><li>Feel free to add print profiles here if you changed something and think it may be useful to others.</li></ul></li><li>For those who are getting the STLs and slicing it yourself:<ul><li>Import the “cap” and “cap mesh" together and put them in an assembly to keep them aligned</li><li>Likewise, import the “body" and “body mesh" together and put them in an assembly to keep them aligned</li><li>The mesh parts should have no walls, no top, no bottom and 50-60% triangular infill (or as you see fit)</li><li>Use 3 walls for all parts, 3 layers for the bottom, 4 layers for the top</li><li>Layer height as you see fit (I use 0.20m)</li><li>Even if you have a fast printer, slow down the outer wall speed for part durability and consistency in gloss level (I use 50mm/s)</li><li>ARACHNE WALL GENERATOR MUST BE ON!</li><li>The preview should look something like below:</li><li><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/633232/2024-02-11_f252a48fe100d.png"></li><li><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/633232/2024-02-11_b2309d4cdaeda.png"></li></ul></li></ul>Spool Compatibility<ul><li>These work well with Bambu spools and eSun cardboard spools.</li><li>For eSun plastic spools, you will need to turn the retainer around for a tighter fit (these spools are getting phased out anyways).</li><li>Please check out the comments and makes as they come through - on this page and on Printables - as users post these with their spools - I've seen one already fitted on a Polymaker cardboard spool.</li><li>Sorry these are not compatible with Prusament spools but <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/23470" rel="nofollow noopener">this one</a> works with them.</li></ul>Fitment<ul><li>Overall, it's important to have your pressure advance (k value) tuned so that the seams don't bulge out and make it harder to thread parts together.</li><li>The cap is designed to fit very tightly. If you print from PLA, you might find that it threads in really easy but if you print from PETG (which has higher friction and generally doesn't print as cleanly), it is a bit hard on your fingernails to thread in. This is to ensure the cap doesn't come off and spill all the beans during use. I have included a cap installer/remover to make it a bit easier on your fingers.<ul><li>Unfortunately, even with all the settings and printer dialed in properly, variations in filament batch may create fitment issues. It's not necessarily your fault - don't be disheartened by seeing 99% of users say it's perfect but yours isn't! Measure your filament diameter. Sometimes it can be 1.72mm, sometimes 1.78mm - the latter will make the fit tighter. Either reprint just the cap in a different filament, a different section of the same roll, or scale it down slightly. (Another user has already created print profiles for easier fitting parts!)</li></ul></li><li>The retainer has been designed with a larger clearance than the cap so it should thread in nicely. However, the thread pitch is quite fine because it's designed to fit tightly to the spool so it stays on in the AMS with the constant winding and unwinding. This can, with some spools, make it difficult to remove. User @urzhiataer has made a <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/190462" rel="nofollow noopener">tool to help remove the retainer</a>, check it out!</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:45.6%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/633232/2024-02-18_246b3e25e48f28.png"><figcaption>Retainer removing tool by @urzhiataer</figcaption></figure>&nbsp;That's all, enjoy!&nbsp;Wait two more things: print this <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/73654" rel="nofollow noopener">canister holder</a> to dry 7 of them at once in your filament dryer:<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75.93%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/633232/2024-02-14_f3628eb848943.png"><figcaption>Desiccant Dryer Ferris Wheel</figcaption></figure>And if you have lots of little fragments of desiccant because you microwaved them on high, perhaps try out this <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/190762" rel="nofollow noopener">filter scoop</a>:&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:68.31%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/633232/2024-02-18_0f2082378d3f8.jpg"><figcaption>Filter Scoop</figcaption></figure>

KYZ FF2 High Flow Desiccant Holder - For Bambu and Other Spools

BBL_Addon

K2_Kevin

<h3>THE TEST DISC</h3>The Bambu Printers do not have an easy Z-Offset baby steping interface. If you notice your prints do not have a perfectly smooth first/bottom layer (you see layer lines), you can change the z-offset in Bambu Studio to give it more squish.Goto to Printer Settings | Machine G-code |Machine start G-code. You will need to scroll down until you find the section for z-offset on textured build plate. Change the value one at a time (from the default -0.04 to -0.05 etc.) and retest with a Test Disc. change this to a higher negitive number brings the bed closer to the nozzle. WARNING if you change this number incorrectly, you could cause damage to your bed, nozzle or other parts. Do this at your own risk!&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000019385/design/2023-09-26_40c0e7cdbdbdf.png">BAMBU X1C Example Above: I started at the default z-offset = -0.04, using this calibration disc, my z-offset ended up at -0.10 (perfect smooth 1st. Layer, if it was to close, backoff to -0.09). Your Z-offset results may be different. This process can also be done for other plates as well, you notice I also changed the “Cool Plate”.&nbsp;Can be found in the middle of Machine gcode - Example:;========== For Textured PEI Plate, Cool Plate ========================================= ;curr_bed_type={curr_bed_type} {if curr_bed_type==&#34;Textured PEI Plate&#34;} G29.1 Z{-0.07} ; &lt;-------for Textured PEI Plate {endif} {if curr_bed_type==&#34;High Temp Plate&#34;} G29.1 Z{-0.01} ; &lt;-------for High Temp Smooth Plate {endif} {if curr_bed_type==&#34;Cool Plate/PLA Plate&#34;} G29.1 Z{-0.01} ; &lt;-------for Cool Plate {endif} {if curr_bed_type==&#34;Engineering Plate&#34;} G29.1 Z{-0.02} ; &lt;-------for Engineering Plate {endif}  <h3>❤ Dont forget to Like and post your results! ❤</h3>&nbsp;UPDATE: By request, I&#39;ve added the Z-disc “collectors cup” save those smooth disc&#39;s like trophy swatches.&nbsp;

THE TEST DISC | Z-Offset Calibration Disc

Calib

Markus710

headphone & headset holder / stand / headset holder / hanger&nbsp;The bottom is hollow, if you want to put something heavy in there like sand.

BBL_Addon

Calib

Misc