great model. careful of your elephant foot and contour compensation for eyes, eyebrows and nose.

solid design. sometimes the clip struggles to securely clamp the shoe so make sure you give an extra pinch before slinging your back pack on.

really like this print. I just wish I could scale it up for a multi-plate print without losing the color. and due to the way the model is painted, it is pretty difficult to add color back once the model is cut so I was limited by the size of my print bed.

this was a fun print

this sword is the best design I've seen. has some minor issues with spiral vase mode but pretty sure that was a bug in the slicer.

this print was a lot of fun!

this whistle is VERY loud!! it took me a minute to figure out how it works though. when holding the whistle you have to COMPLETELY cover the sides of the whistle. if you partially cover the sides, the whistle doesn't work at all. my adult fingers can completely cover the sides but my kids have to put the palm of their hands on the sides to get it to work.

this is a fun whistle to play with. I tried printing a "little" bigger but obviously typed the wrong scale % in the slicer haha. it takes a strong breath at the correct angle to get a noise out of this design. plus my fingers easily get in the way of the air exiting the whistle which messes up the sound. this could be my fault bc I printed so large so will reprint at the original scale to find out.

enjoyed printing and playing with this model. I tried a few different sizes to see how it messed with the pitch of the whistle. the larger size definitely makes a deeper sound but isn't quite as loud. I tried out the original size while coaching soccer and it works really well! minimal effort for a loud sound. my only wish was the body of the whistle was a bit more bulky so it would be easier to hold in an adult hand

print itself came out looking pretty rough but not the worst thing I've printed. I was very hesitant to mess with the settings based on how the model was built and the warnings in the description. I took a look at the tool path to figure out what was going on and it looks like there are a bunch of really small "dots" the slicer tried to print rather than a smooth continuous line. good news is this print for not take much filament so will be trying a second time after messing with some of the tool path settings.

solid model. printed in PETG to get a more translucent glow with the lighting. also painted some areas black and I was running low on orange filament so flushed into infill which ended up giving an interesting sickly look where the cubic shows through. a little smaller than I wanted so will probably reprint at ~200% on the A1. I also broke the stem when trying to get the supports off. definitely pay close attention to support settings or take extra care removing them.

thought I'd like this model more than I do once printing. I used some cheap filament for the first print and the model design doesn't seem as detailed as it looks in the picture. ***the 10mm hole is a critical addition to support this sword***

solid profile, I found a different hand guard with more detail. I also split the handle into multiple pieces by color so I could print separately. the blade was also slightly short for my preference so I printed the lower blade portion 2x. I also removed threading and added a .38" hole through most of the pieces so a 3/8" wooden dowel could tightly fit through and glue in place. Blue is glow in the dark using a 0.6mm nozzle, the 0.4" nozzle made the melted filament look stretched out an a pasty whitish color. could have been print settings causing it but the 0.6mm nozzle had no issues. Metallic Gold printed well, be careful of seam positions bc every detail is accentuated by the metallic sheen.

these are a fun kit card for my 4year old to take to school when studying dinosaurs. default scale is a little small for his finger dexterity so scaled to 150%

scaled up to completely fill A1 build plate which meant I had to be a bit creative with the spring selection. if I were to reprint, I would take a closer look at the infill settings bc these were basically solid plastic which uses way more material than necessary. I would also consider adding a dove tail to the single digit display so I could string a few single digit displays together rather than needing a single housing. On thing that might be a nice add is to add numbers to the back so the operator doesn't have to turn the display around to see the numbers. I just did this in sharpie

Printed in PETG. Issues could be from a bit more shrinkage than a pla would have but maybe not. front plate needs a bit more overlap with the housing bc it can pull out of the front instead of slide up. I added a little bump to the top cover to help prevent unwanted sliding of that piece too.

this build uses every millimeter of z axis travel. be very careful of your PTFE tubes. the first time printing, my ams knocked the print off the build plate. If you have a z-axis drag chain, you will need to notch out part of the border along the top of the housing.

now I can trust my kids to cut their own bagels!