Minister George

Dr Operator

UPDATE 6/26/2024: Giving my 8-Ball a spin today, one of the tiles came loose so I attempted to take it apart and in doing that, I snapped off one of the clips on the 2nd Half. I think I would like to have the option of opening and closing the 8-Ball to resolve any issues that may arise so I&#39;m going to redesign how to two halves connect.  Looking through all of the “airless” designs a while back, I had noticed that there was one obvious omission from the airless collection, airless billiards. I thought for sure an airless 8-ball would do well, so I made a quick one and while making that I started to think about a magic 8-ball and how cool it would be if I made a liquid free, 3d printable version. My initial thought was to just make a hollow ball with four magnets around the window and a dice floating around inside the ball that was also covered in magnets so you would just shake it until the magnets on the die connected with the magnets on the window. The problem with that is it would be super noisy as well as potential damage to the ball, window and die when shaking it. At an impasse, I decided to move onto other projects and let the idea of a liquid free magic 8-ball marinate for a while. Eventually, the answer came to me and it&#39;s pretty simple.  A wheel on the inside of the ball has eight different answer tiles attached to it. The wheel is attached to the 1st half of the 8-Ball via a 6204 Plastic Deep Groove Ball Bearing. There are two 4mm x 2mm magnets embedded between each answer tile on the wheel and one magnet embedded in each half of the 8-Ball. After spinning the wheel, the magnets on each half of the 8-Ball will “grab” an answer when the wheel slows down. Occasionally, the wheel will stop between answers and you need to give it a little shake before the magnets take hold.   ASSEMBLY:&nbsp;&nbsp;First thing you need to do is insert the answer tiles into the wheel. Make sure that the handle is on the right side of the answers as seen in the photo below. Next, embed the magnets into the wheel, making sure that the polarity of each magnet is the same. I would also suggest using supper glue to secure the magnets.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 33.15%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000508707/design/2024-06-18_4bcc35fa34e698.png"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Next, you will need to connect the two face parts with the two halves of the 8-Ball. The face parts are numbered on the inside of each piece. The face with a 1 on it fits into the 1st Half (the one with the 8) and the face with a 2 fits into the 2nd Half. Once you have that done, embed the magnets into each half of the 8-Ball. Make sure that these magnets have the opposite polarity from the magnets on the wheel.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 58.59%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000508707/design/2024-06-23_04522cc844ecf.png"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;Next, take your 6204 Plastic Deep Groove Ball Bearing and fit it onto the 1st Half of the 8-Ball.&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000508707/design/2024-06-23_e17f71d1fd886.png"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;And then fit the wheel onto the bearing.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 33.38%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000508707/design/2024-06-18_dc87d53ddfec8.png"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;Next, fit the 2nd Half onto the 1st Half/Wheel, gently snap them together and you&#39;re done.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 50.04%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000508707/design/2024-06-18_998a10fae13998.png"></figure>&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 30.55%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000508707/design/2024-06-18_164777c13a77b8.png"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;

Not So Magic 8-Ball

Toys

Brism_DE

Pretty minimalistic Earrings in Dagger look.

Brism Earrings Dagger

Wearable

ordnerino

When evaluating the surface finish of untested filaments, this test id for you. Especially when printing with matte materials, the flow (or in this case the speed) is defining the finish and how glossy/matte the surface will be.&nbsp;This test has eight sections to test the finish:<ul><li>45 degreee overhangs</li><li>indent text, digits and shapes</li><li>curved zig-zag</li><li>90 degree sharp turns</li><li>medium and big curves</li><li>90 degree big turn</li><li>wide zig-zag</li><li>vertical indents to evaluate face to face</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/490608/2024-02-03_335978ceb9437.png"></figure>The model is 30mm in height, with 3mm sections, so 10 different speeds can be tested (e.g. 20 to 200 mm/s).The Thickness is chosen to be two extrusion widths (0,42-0,45mm).The test takes roughly an hour (greatly depending on your settings).

Surface Finish Speed Test

Calibration

Bea Res

Even if my physiotherapist said it's cool, it's not a certified medical device, but it worked for me. It's a light splinter that I designed for a jammed finger in order to avoid hitting stuff and feeling pain. It printed really fast, just 8 minutes, and then I heated it with the hair dryer while positioning it around my finger so that it fits ergonomically. It came out very light, comfortable and useful. Taped around the joint, like in the photos, it stays in place, prevents the finger from being hit and yet I can click the right mouse button as it leaves my fingertip free. The splint is modeled on the middle finger of a normal weight adult woman. Feel free to scale it up or down according to your needs.

Fast Print Finger Splint

Medical

mattia.deicco1994

easy to print with PLA with support

fiat 500 dakar

HroshiPrint

Clock mechanism can be found <a target="_blank" href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001136618634.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.41.25a51802xi9ri3" rel="nofollow noopener">here - Aliexpress.</a>Hole for clock mechanism is 8mm.

Cat clock

Home Goods

Ocular Dynamic

Cool retractable karambit knife remix of a remix originally of cat claw box cutter. I'll have a profile that all one color and a 2nd profile with 2 plates, body separate from links so you can make them different colors if you wish.&nbsp;I only put supports for the hex nuts on the blade holder to make sure its clean. Push em out super easy with the hex key wrench through the hole from the other side.&nbsp;Assembly PartsFor Body:4x - M3x16mm screws4x - M3 Nuts&nbsp;For Blade:2x - M3x5 Screws2x - M3 Nuts&nbsp;Magnets [Optional]:3x - 6mm x 3mm

Retractable Karambit Knife

Tools

FilliFuu

Unicorn bracelet similar to the dragon bracelet i designed earlier.All print in place without supports.All files painted, just erase painting or change if you want a fast print or allow adaptive layers for more detail.&nbsp;Enjoy.

Lucky Charm Flexi Unicorn Bracelet

Flexi

3dEvangelist

Hey, 3D printing enthusiasts! I've been exploring Bambu LAB's offerings and wanted to share my experiences.I appreciate BambuLAB's innovative 3D printed products but have concerns about their recent focus on users without design skills. While this could open up a larger market, my issue lies in the execution rather than the idea.Downloading files from their platform, “Maker World”, posed challenges. Despite Bambu LAB's design expertise, the user interface and file compatibility need improvement. Some files are only available in raw formats, causing confusion. A more user-friendly solution is needed.In the section on "Bambu LAB's new product 3D printed Flaw," I express frustration with issues while printing using Bambu Studio software. Faulty files and mesh errors surprised me, and though the design is good, there's room for improvement in preparing models for 3D printing.There's a disappointment from a user about the lack of proper configuration files from Bambu LAB. As an experienced user, I demonstrate correcting issues with a 3D-printed object's shells using Blender. I stress the importance of better configuration files for an improved user experience.In conclusion, despite some criticisms, I'm excited about the competition in the 3D printing industry. Bambu LAB's new product offerings are praised for design and affordability, but there's a note on the lack of 3D printing support. I hope Bambu LAB improves in this area and encourages the audience to create their designs using Fusion 360. Although I'd love to create tutorials, time constraints currently hinder me.&nbsp;see the video if you want to know how I made it!&nbsp;&nbsp;<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A0g8Iefz0t8"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/A0g8Iefz0t8" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>

Wireless Mouse proper way

creagame1545

réducteur cycloidal

ndefonte80

Vallejo Bottle Holdel 200ml for Ikea Skadis

Vallejo Bottle Holdel 200ml for Ikea Skadis

painting

PAPA Emeritus IV

IKEA Skadis with Holes face down remixed previous file so it had holes for mounting. Will add two profiles, face down and face up so you can have the desired top finish you would like&nbsp;UPDATED THE FILES FOR BETTER HOLE SIZING 12-13-2023

Updated IKEA Skadis with Holes face down and Up

Organizer

jeffrudzinski.prestige

This is a full chess set with each piece being a different character or reference to the series. The intended character-peice combination is as shown in the photos (ex. Link and Zelda are King and Queen for the “white pieces”, Ganon is the King for the “black peices”. Pieces have been sized to conform to standard chess piece sizes. The set includes several additional “alternate pieces” that can be used in place of the “standard” set. However, it should be noted that the alternate pieces were difficult to print. Every model in the main set should print. Recommended Print Settings: Nozzle: 0.40mm Layer Height: .20mm or lower Supports: Regular supports with Snug fit. Tree supports also work, but have been less reliable. Use build plate only for tree supports. Support Threshold Angle: I printed using 20. There is a delicate balance between support threshold and print quality. These models have a lot of things that need support that are also think and delicate. Bows, arrows, fingers, etc. If you set the threshold angle too low, the print will get messed up. If you set it too high (35+) there will be so many supports that removing them from the many small delicate sections of models will be difficult to do without breaking the model. Filament: I have only tested these models with PLA and Silk PLA. They print significantly easier with regular PLA (I used Inland). Silk PLA makes these things look awesome, but it is more brittle, and again, lots of small delicate parts. Ironing: Several models benefit from top surface ironing. Deku Tree for example. Most do not need them. Infill %: I recommend at least 50%. It gives the pieces a good feel and not as likely to tip over but also saves on filament. Infill pattern: whatever you want, I think I used cubic for the most part. Walls: 3. You can do 2 if you want, but the extra wall makes them sturdier, especially for ones with thin legs. Print Speed: 100% or lower. Storage: This set is not recommended as an every day chess set. It's for display and/or special occasions. If you have children in your home, you should keep these packed up. You can find “pluck and pull” foam padding online for relatively cheap. 2" is what I used. Check the photos to see what I mean. General Printing: It may be a task, but I would suggest printing one piece at a time, especially for the larger more complicated ones. Print Times: The larger pieces take ~2 hours to print. The pawn row takes ~1 hour per piece.

Legend of Zelda Chess Set (Full models)

games

mcmaven

This is a 3D-printed model of a triple-axis tourbillon, which is based on the tourbillon in a Jacob and Co. Twin Turbo Furious watch. A tourbillon is a mechanism employed to counteract the effects of gravity within a watch. This intricate model includes an escape wheel, triple-axis outer frame, and a base with an integrated motor. It functions on the same fundamental principles as a traditional watch tourbillon.&nbsp;With precise assembly and calibration of the escape wheel, spring, and base drive gear, this tourbillon can smoothly rotate in three axes and maintain accurate timekeeping. The provided print settings in the Triple-axis Tourbillon Model for Kit-007.3mf file are already customized to ensure that all screw holes are clear and ready for assembly.&nbsp;Printed plastic ‘screws’ are printed to scale and used as caps to cover the steel screws that actually hold it together.<a target="_blank" href="https://youtu.be/2-7S2i6AUyM" rel="nofollow noopener">Here </a>is a real-time video of the tourbillion in action.&nbsp;Note: There are two different designs defined for the Tourbillon: the 3MF version and the STL version.&nbsp;The 3MF (Triple-axis Tourbillon Model for Kit-007.3mf file) version was designed specifically to work with Bambu printers and the Bambu slicer, and uses the Triple-axis Tourbillon Model Hardware Kit motor to drive it. It is a slightly modified version of the original STL tourbillon version. To build the 3MF version you only need to order the <a target="_blank" href="https://shrsl.com/4d484" rel="nofollow noopener">Triple-axis Tourbillon Model Hardware Kit</a>, which provides all the non-printed parts (screws, bearings, shafts cut to length, motor, etc.) needed to build a complete model. <a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HRNbihDXNwE" rel="nofollow noopener">Here </a>is a video of assembling the 3MF version with the Bambu 007 hardware kit. Note that some of the sections in the Furious Build Notes PDF file below also apply to assembling the 3MF version, with the primary difference being the construction and components of the Base and the drive mechanism.&nbsp;The STL (Raw Model Files) version is a set od files that was designed to work with any printer or slicer. It also uses a more complex Arduino controlled stepper motor mechanism to drive it. To build the STL version you can order a kit of all the non-printed parts <a target="_blank" href="https://www.makerrx.com/collections/projectkits/products/twin-turbo-furious-tourbillon-kit" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a>, otherwise you will need to order the parts listed in the Furious Build Notes PDF instructions individually. If you order the STL version of the hardware kit or buy the parts yourself, you will need to program the firmware into the Arduino before it will work. The Furious Build Notes PDF file below, describes the assembly process for the STL version. For some of the larger parts, ‘full’ (e.g., Base Outer Ring.STL) and ‘split’ versions (Base Outer Ring a.STL and Base Outer Ring b.STL) of the same part are included. The ‘full’ parts require at least a 220x220 bed for printing. The ‘split’ parts may be printed separately on a diagonal on a smaller bed, then glued together to form the larger part.&nbsp;The following filaments can be used to create a model that looks like the pictured gold, silver, copper and black version:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://shrsl.com/4cim5" rel="nofollow noopener">PLA Silk Gold</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://shrsl.com/4cim4" rel="nofollow noopener">PLA Silk Silver</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://shrsl.com/4cim3" rel="nofollow noopener">PLA Silk Copper</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://shrsl.com/4cim2" rel="nofollow noopener">PLA Basic Black</a></li></ul>Here is a video of the construction of the 007 kit. And some sections in the Furious Build Notes.PDF file may be useful for constructing the 007 kit.<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHEU9rnnu88"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/bHEU9rnnu88" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>&nbsp;Disclaimer: This model is part of the Creator Program, When you purchase the Triple-axis Tourbillon Model Components Kit through the links below, creators may earn an affiliate commission as a reward of their work. (The creator program is currently in the trial phase. The application is not yet open to public.)&nbsp;The Hardware Kit for the Triple-axis Tourbillon Model for Kit-007.3mf file can be found here: <a target="_blank" href="https://shrsl.com/4d484" rel="nofollow noopener">Triple-axis Tourbillon Model Hardware Kit</a><a target="_blank" href="https://shrsl.com/4cfzj" rel="nofollow noopener">.</a>

TT Furious Tourbillon

Gadgets

VRsculpts

I really love doing these crochet style models! This is a cute elephant that looks as if grandma just knitted him up in her rocking chair - except now we've replaced grandma with a 3d printer!&nbsp;Join my Patreon if you would like to sell physical copies of my designs, your support is appreciated and motivates me to create more cool stuff to share! https://www.patreon.com/VRsculpts

Cute Crochet Knitted Elephant

Figures

thrutheframe

<h3>NOTE:</h3><ul><li>Please read the instruction guide below</li><li>I do my best to double-check and test the print profile I create. They are up to date with whatever changes I made to the designs. If you are using profiles made by others, please check if they are updated.</li></ul><h3>UPDATE: 24 Dec 2023</h3>Would like to wish everyone a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. It has been a week since GRIP was uploaded to MakerWorld for the community. Since then I had some feedback on the retainer clips. I have updated the design to improve layer adhesion and tested it. Would like the thanks those that tried and printed GRIP. Happy printing. &nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-24_72f6fa29ece5e.png"><figcaption>Old (Left) vs New (Right) </figcaption></figure><h3>UPDATE: 15 Dec 2023</h3>I have received several questions regarding the differences between GRIP and <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/92486#profileId-99168" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu Lab version</a>. While both designs serve the same function, my design approach is based on considerations that I feel are important when designing parts for 3D printing.<ul><li>Reliability and Rigidity - I opted for screw mounting the GRIP bracket because I take into consideration that metal and plastic behave differently with changes in ambient temperature. Clamping the GRIP using screws to the top gantry greatly reduces the chance of any failure due to parts loosening. </li><li>Ease of Print and Print Orientation - Proper orientation improves print success and user confidence. I design parts with little or no support. A major weakness of 3D-printed parts is the layer lines. With proper orientation of prints, this weakness can be avoided. For example, the AMS lite swivel bracket is printed at 45 degrees to improve the strength of the swivel and eliminate the use of support. </li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:49.99%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-15_534012b0bf62c.png"></figure><ul><li>Prudent in filament usage - good filament is not cheap. I want to be prudent with filament usage but at that same time NOT sacrificing strength and rigidity. It&#39;s a delicate balance and I am happy to say that GRIP has managed to achieve it with a slim profile and a pair of discreet stabilizing feet.</li></ul>&nbsp;&nbsp;<h3>INTRODUCTION</h3>When I placed the A1 combo on my workstation, I realised the setup required a lot of space on my table. So I decided to design a bracket to mount the AMS lite on the A1 frame. As usual, I set a few parameters and requirements when designing this bracket:<ul><li>Easy and fast to print with little/no support needed.</li><li>Sturdy and reliable when fully loaded and swivel for easy loading.</li><li>Use existing mounting holes on the AMS lite for mounting.</li><li>Secure mounting using screws.</li><li>A holistic system that will work alongside my <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/91768#profileId-98168" rel="nofollow noopener">A1 PMS (purge management system aka poop bin)</a>.</li></ul><figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:100%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_454c112c17058.png"></figure></td><td><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:100%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_9e06679ae9eb3.png"></figure></td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_d0a3fac8de1c3.png"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_f1057fdb05af8.png"></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>Introducing the AMS lite bracket for the A1. It resembles a gymnast hand grabbing and balancing on a bar. I decided to name it GRIP. It is mounted onto the 40x20 gantry with a clamp-style bracket and secured with M3 screws. This system allows the AMS to swivel improving the load and unload of filaments. 2 retainer clips are used to secure the AMS during printing. A set of PTFE tube guides (dual-colour print) prevents the tubes from overbending and breaking the filament.&nbsp;A set of Stabilization Brackets for the A1 helps reduce the wobbling due to the change in the centre of gravity.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:70.09%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_e63eed49bc5bb.png"></figure>&nbsp;<h3>BOM</h3><ul><li>Brass inserts M3xOD5mmxL4mm - 9pcs</li><li>SHCS or BHCS M3x10mm - 9pcs</li><li>Thin double-sided tape</li></ul>I get my brass insert from <a target="_blank" href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000232858343.html?channel=twinner" rel="nofollow noopener">this store</a> on AliExpress. Please choose M3 X D5.0 X L4.0 <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2024-01-06_44af93a85057c.png"></figure>&nbsp;<h3>PRINT INSTRUCTIONS</h3><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:70.05%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_41cb92fe8c3c9.png"></figure><ol><li>There are 4 build plates to print. Wall perimeters, top and bottom layers are set to 4. This setting helps to produce strong parts.</li><li>I printed my version in <a target="_blank" href="https://store.bambulab.com/products/pla-basic-filament" rel="nofollow noopener">BambuLab Basic PLA</a> Jade white and Black. (not affiliated link)</li><li>Build plates 01&amp; 02 - print according to orientation, if you prefer to have all the same color. You can combine the parts from both plates together and print.</li><li>Build plate 03 - IMPORTANT!! DO NOT CHANGE THE ORIENTATION OF THE PRINT. It was designed to print that way to improve structural rigidity during operation.</li><li>Build plate 04 - This is a dual-color print for the PTFE tube guide.</li></ol>&nbsp;<h3>BUILD INSTRUCTIONS</h3><ul><li>Turn off the power to A1. Unplug the AMS lite. Practice safety habits.</li><li>Use a soldering iron to install all 9 brass heat inserts according to the images seen above.</li><li>Ensure that all inserts are flush to the surface.</li></ul><figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_bb96f4e954a04.png"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_5264dcd801345.png"></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>&nbsp;<ul><li>There is a lip inside the swivel bracket that helps secure itself to the AMS lite, a tap will help align the bracket.</li><li>Install all 4 screws that come with the A1 combo kit. It comes in a pack labelled “For AMS Stand”</li></ul><figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_886968a17e87f.png"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_3ac274607a273.png"></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>&nbsp;<ul><li>Install the GRIP main body to the gantry. Secure with four M3x10mm screws horizontally.</li><li>Insert the AMS bracket and lock it with the clamp using four M3x10mm screws.</li><li>Install the retainer clips on both sides. (Note: Remove clips when swivelling the AMS lite)</li><li>Optional - screw in the last M3x10mm vertically.</li></ul><figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_8df88000560e5.png"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_2efe27d7d788.png"></figure></td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_ac5ce21fc8fb4.png"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_851d3609b191c.png"></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>&nbsp;<ul><li>Install wobble reduction brackets at the back of the printer. The side should flush against the curved surface of the base.</li><li>There is a left and right side. The left side will have a cutout for the printer switch.</li><li>Optionally u can use a bit of thin double-sided tape to secure brackets to the printer.</li></ul><figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_9f7a6576b9fff.jpg"></figure></td><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_b9b45ab6f1c2c.jpg"></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>&nbsp;<ul><li>To check the clearance. Turn on the A1 and do a homing.</li><li>Raise the X gantry to the top level. There should be a clearance between the tool head and the AMS lite with spool installed.</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:60.03%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_a572654971a6d.jpg"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:60.05%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_2de906d9a422f.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;<ul><li>Install the PTFE tube guide bracket.</li><li>Home printer so that tool head reaches the bed. This is the maximum distance required by the PTFE tube.</li><li>The longer tubes go to 1&amp;2 and the shorter tubes go to 3&amp;4.</li><li>Turn off your printer, and connect your AMS lite before turning it on again.</li><li>Do a homing and double-check the tubes, cables, etc are not in each other way.</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:59.98%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_0f0cc9729c151.png"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:60.05%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000090586/design/2023-12-12_9ec18ef2720b1.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;<h3>CONCLUSION</h3>To date, my designs are free to download and use. There is no Patreon or OnlyFan (hahaha). If you like my designs and wish to contribute to my coffee addiction &amp; help fund the filaments and materials needed for prototyping, a donation of $5-$10 to <a target="_blank" href="https://ko-fi.com/thrutheframe" rel="nofollow noopener">Ko-fi</a> or <a target="_blank" href="https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/shannonheng" rel="nofollow noopener">paypal.me</a> will be greatly appreciated.&nbsp;<h3>CAVEAT</h3>As with all my designs, Prototyping and testing were conducted to ensure printability and meet my own expectations. However, I understand it may and may not work for you. I would request that you read all instructions and print and install them at your own discretion.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;