MichaW

Bedlam Threadz

IMPORTANT: READ BEFORE PRINTING&nbsp;Unlike most Hueforge prints I think this one will lend itself to some creative license in customizing the colors (except the black), so if you don't have the same filaments I used I wouldn't sweat it. You can preview custom color swaps in the slicer before you print and it should get pretty close unless the filament is really low transmission distance. Result may vary in interesting ways. Please post makes in the ratings comments, would love to see how custom colors work out.*I have uploaded four 3MF Files along with the STL. This is a nine color print so I have profiles for people with 1 - 3 AMS units and one for people with no AMS.*To print this with 1 AMS unit you need to manually switch out your model colors [1] [2] [3] [4] and replace them with [5] [6] [7] [8], then when [5] is done one last swap to [9]. It is really easy to do, just make sure you watch the progress so you don't miss your swaps. I usually wait till [4] is printing then swap in [5] [6] [7], then when [5] is done swap in [8] and [9]. (This is how I print all my paintings, remember you can use the handy app to pause if you are cutting it close to make it back for a swap)*To print this with 2 AMS units you just need to swap [1] out when it is done and put color [9] in its place. Then wait till it is done.*To print this with 3 AMS units (do people even have that many?) just load the nine filaments in order and go!*To print with NO AMS just load the colors in order and unload/load the filaments and hit resume, repeat until the model is complete. The pauses are already set to the correct layer heights in the NO AMS 3MF.*AMS SLOT GUIDE: The model colors will go in the following slots depending how many AMS units you have.&nbsp;MODEL COLOR - [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9]1 AMS - SLOT ---- [1] [2] [3] [4] [1] [2] [3] [4] [1]2 AMS - SLOT ---- [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [1]3 AMS - SLOT ---- [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9]*Like all of my models this is for personal use only. If you would like to hang this <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/56304#profileId-57896" rel="nofollow noopener">here is my frame</a> which fits it perfectly. The photo attached is the printed model and frame.*&nbsp;Like all Hueforge prints this model produces very little waste (9 poops total).Some of <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/2192955199" rel="nofollow noopener">my other prints</a> have more notes and tips for first time Hueforge printers.*&nbsp;Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.08mm with a base layer of 0.16mm. A height modifier is already in the 3MF files to print the first 0.64mm @0.16 layer height to speed it up.*&nbsp;&nbsp;Filaments Used: PLA BambuLab Basic Black Transmission Distance: 0.6 PLA PolyLite Red Transmission Distance: 1.1 PLA PolyLite Magenta Transmission Distance: 1 PLA BambuLab Basic Pink Transmission Distance: 8.6 PLA BambuLab Basic Yellow Transmission Distance: 6 PLA PolyLite Azure Blue Transmission Distance: 3 PLA BambuLab Matte Ice Blue Transmission Distance: 3.5 PLA PolyLite Blue Transmission Distance: 1.1 PLA Sunlu Purple Transmission Distance: 6*&nbsp;Swap Instructions: Start with Black At layer #12 (1.04mm) swap to Red At layer #18 (1.52mm) swap to Magenta At layer #22 (1.84mm) swap to Pink At layer #26 (2.16mm) swap to Yellow At layer #32 (2.64mm) swap to Azure Blue At layer #39 (3.2mm) swap to Ice Blue At layer #43 (3.52mm) swap to Blue At layer #44 (3.6mm) swap to Purple for the rest.

Hummingbird - Filament Painting

Infinity 3D Prints

I POSTED A PIC Of 2 MONTHS OF USE WITH THE A1 SERIES BOWDEN TUBE SET UP WITH THE 4 WAY HUB. THE PTFE TUBES GET SHREDDED AFTER ONLY A SHORT TIMESO THIS KEEPS THE TUBES STRAIGHT AND GROUPED TOGETHER IN ONE STRONGER BUNCH , DONT FLOP AROUND AT THE BASE ANYMORE AND ARE PROTECTED. I hope to not change out the tubes every two months that’s a wasteTHIS ALSO FIXES THE ANGLE THE FILAMENT ENTERS INTO THE TOOL HEAD KEEPING THOSE MUTICOLOR PRINTS RUNNING SMOOTHLY<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/324594/2023-12-29_d246851e7887c8.gif"></figure>THIS WAS DESIGNED USING PLA . So other materials might be a tighter fit . If finding it too tight you can always scale up half a percent :) !! <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/324594/2023-12-29_fc3906b20073d8.gif"></figure>Can be used on any of the a1 printers.Internal id is 9.2mm

A1/A1MINI PTFE TUBE PROTECTION /FAILED TO FEED FILAMENT INTO TOOL HEAD FIX

ByteSlinger

Y-Splitter for Bambu printers, and any other need for a PTFE Y-Splitter!<ul><li>Highly Optimized to work well, I've printed many hundreds of hours with mine fitted, including prints with hundreds (if not thousands) of filament changes each, and never had one problem.</li><li>Threaded for PC4-M10 PTFE Fittings</li></ul>&nbsp;Please Note: Whilst it is possible to print faster (using thicker layer lines or faster print speeds, as per the un-official print profiles), this can and likely will affect performance as it'll affect how smooth the print and the surfaces are inside the filament guides. Please print with the profiles I supplied (Marked, ‘Designer’), I've heavily tested my profiles and can't guarantee that other profiles will perform as I've described.&nbsp;What does it do?Allows you to connect 2 sources of filament (eg AMS and external spool) without needing to swap over PTFE tubes each time you switch between them.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/425825/2023-12-20_7204c17ade4a1.gif"></figure>&nbsp;Why this one?I had tried a number of the popular options around, but found I was often getting filament caught inside it or jammed and it was never something I could rely on to run my AMS through due to the frequent filament changes. This has taken weeks to refine, and have gone through multiple printed revisions, each one undergoing testing and further refinement and I finally landed on this one. I've done a number of tests and have printed several prints with this connected, each with 50-100 filament changes with zero problems.&nbsp;&nbsp;How do I use it?The splitter has an IN end and an OUT end. The IN end has two holes, they are both the same and you can run any filament source into either.The OUT end has just one hole and that should lead to your printer.&nbsp;&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:54.89%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/425825/2023-12-20_4a06552709c68.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Each hole is threaded to take a PC4-M10 PTFE pneumatic mount (the push clips that PTFE tubes slot into).If you need to buy more, <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/485ed5s" rel="nofollow noopener">these are high qualty reliable PC4-M10s</a>.&nbsp;Once your PC4-M10's are screwed in, slot in your PTFE tubes. The PTFE tubes going into the two IN holes you can push in pretty much as far as you want too (I'd advise not as far as they'll go but maybe 2-3mm before that).&nbsp;The PTFE tube going into the OUT hole however is important that you push that all the way in.As you can see below, a special recess has been designed for the PTFE tube to slot into and it needs to push all the way down into this hole to ensure the inner diameter lines up with the feed hole for the filament. It's also important to make sure your PTFE tube are cut neatly and straight.<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/425825/2023-12-20_433cca5fe97d7.gif"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;Mounting You have three options for mounting. I've designed and included two mounts specifically for the Easy Split (detailed below), but you can also just leave it free. I personally have mine connected up and it needs no mount (as pictured), but it depends how and where you'll want to use yours.<ul><li>Fixed Mount: The Easy Split slots onto this mount and it holds it in a single position.</li><li>Swivel / Rotate Mount: The Easy Split slots onto this mount and it allows free rotation whilst fitted. It can be good if you'll want to swing it depending on if you're connecting your external source or not.</li></ul>Both versions are available with holes cut for 8x3 magnets, or 10x2 magnets.&nbsp;I've included a profile which contains all 4 mounts, with each one on it's own plate, so you can just print the one you want from that (or via the included STLs). Print Settings I highly recommend printing from the official profile included above as there has been a lot of tweaks made to ensure this performs correctly. If you want to slice it yourself though, here's the core settings:<ul><li>Layer Height: 0.08mm</li><li>Wall Loops: 4</li><li>Infill: 15% Gyroid</li><li>Outer Wall Speed: 45-100mm/s</li><li>Material: PLA</li></ul>&nbsp;Tips<ul><li>Ensure your PTFE tubes are cut cleanly and straight</li><li>Print using my profiles (Marked with the ‘Designer’ tag) which I've printed, altered and optimized many times, and heavily tested, to ensure it functions as designe .</li><li>Although I have included a profile I've optimized for PETG, I'd advise printing in PLA. PLA has zero performance issues for this item and due to the artifacting that some people experience when printing with PETG, PLA will often perform better in this specific case.</li><li>The mounts are only optional and should only be used if you need it fitted in a suitable place. I personally have it hanging free (as pictured)</li><li>Whilst adhesion shouldn't be a problem with this design, 2 of the 1200 people who have downloaded the primary profile have mentioned they've experienced adhesion issues, so I've added an additional profile which should help aleviate these issues. I'd suggest trying the main profile ("Highly Optimized (PLA)") first though.</li></ul>

Art

A1

Useful