Marvil

Brithawkes

printed at 0.2 layer heights with a 0.4 nozzle in vase mode

Vase with groves

Vasi

Josh-3D

Check out the other two games in the series<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/140755#profileId-153348" rel="nofollow noopener">Checkers</a><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/134530#profileId-145997" rel="nofollow noopener">Chess</a>&nbsp;[Update] After getting some feedback, I adjusted the print profile, so the color change isn&#39;t discharged into the infill. I also increased the bottom shell layers. Since the main color scheme of this is white/black/green, it makes sense to reinforce those settings to avoid color bleed. Also added an A1 Mini plate for the Mini users!&nbsp;[Update 2!] Shout out to <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/840057458" rel="nofollow noopener">Wcad00 </a>for the added clip![Update 3!] Shout out to <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/982974221" rel="nofollow noopener">SoftWareCrash </a>and <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/425227684" rel="nofollow noopener">Adminstrator</a> for their contributions. The “Pocket” version, a 50% scaled version, and for a set of Xs and Os, with the Xs cut to fit inside the Os.&nbsp;A Travel TicTacToe game, for those long spans stuck at sea, where you don&#39;t want to risk using a pencil on the side of your life raft! Or uh, you know, any other occasion too, like road trips down the coast with friends, or spending family time playing games!&nbsp;Player piece quantity is setup so that X goes first!&nbsp;The clearance is tight. The X and Os should fit fine, but if your printer is sloppy, it might be a tight fit.&nbsp;&nbsp;-------If you like my work, consider showing your love by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/josh3d" rel="nofollow noopener">Buying me a coffee</a>. Additionally, if you&#39;re looking to sell prints of my design, please check out my <a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/josh3d/" rel="nofollow noopener">Patreon</a> page for more information.&nbsp;&nbsp;

TicTacToe - Travel Edition

Giochi

davidz453

This is made to screw imto the under side of a self to free up space from tea boxes below. Use 2 small screws or possibly even double sided tape to hold. You could even shrink the X axis about 5-10% for a tighter fit but the picture is at full scale. &nbsp;*Make sure to put the tea bags facing away from you that way they dont fall forward.

Tea bag holder for cabinet

Contenitori

jakubhroch

<h2>SpaceX STARSHIP ARE Build Kit 1:200</h2>Total high 69cm&nbsp;Glue is necessary&nbsp;Include: Starships - 5 parts Booster 7 - 10 parts Pad - 5 part Mechazilla - 89 partsPins needed - <ul><li>3x 5mm pin</li><li>12x pillar pin</li><li>8x 10mm pin</li></ul>&nbsp;&nbsp;Printer profiles ready&nbsp;v2 print profile<ul><li>Better parts orientation</li><li>Ship and booster parts shorts by color</li><li>exact number of pins</li></ul>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/307473/2023-12-25_5f45850c44bcf.jpg">&nbsp;&nbsp;

SpaceX - STARSHIP AREA - Build Kit

Volo e Spazio

suit1337

The original MAKPAC is expensive, so why not after all 3D print it? Yes - possible, but there are no models available and 3D printing a 30x40 cm piece will cost you almost the same as buying an injection moulded part. Also most printers dont offer that kind of build volume - but what about smaller sizes? Right - there is none, but wouldn't it be nice to have those to put in screws, drill bits and such?<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/118174/2023-10-25_o1otryc2dmdx.jpg"></figure><h4>About</h4> the box is intended to mimic the MAKPAC so it has the same proportions and looks the same so it fits nicly into your workshopNote that this is not a scale model of the original MAKPAC, if you scale it up it will not be compatible with the original<h5> </h5><h5>so what is different? </h5><ul><li>internal geometry is a bit simplified (especially the corners)</li><li>hinge mechanism at the back is modified so it is more stable</li><li>carry handle hinges are made to be disassmbed</li><li>screw mounts in the lid are not to scale (designed to accept M3 screws)</li><li>mounts for the carry strap on the lid are not present</li><li>cutouts for a padlock on the front right are not present</li><li>holes in the corners are omitted (they would protrude to the inside)</li><li>bottom pattnern is slightly changed for easier printing</li><li>wall thickness slighly increased for more rigidity</li></ul><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/118174/2023-10-25_2nx5h0izij9e.png"><h4>BOM</h4><ul><li>a printer with rougly 200 x 150 mm build area</li><li>roughly 250 to 300 g of filament i've just used regular black and white PETG from <a href="https://www.geeetech.com/?cID=83844" rel="nofollow">Geeetech</a> (affiliate link)</li><li>some plastic glue (<a href="https://www.amazon.de/UHU-46650-Spezialkleber-harte-Kunststoffe/dp/B000QB6HZK/?tag=rebellat-21" rel="nofollow">UHU Hart</a> works for me; affiliate link)</li></ul>If you want Makita color, try looking for RAL 5021 (or RAL 5018) - those tend to be pretty expensive, that is why i used plain old black :)<h4>Printing</h4>Keep in mind that there are lots of appearant overhangs and bridges, make a testprint to check it if works - it is intended&nbsp;use the following settings as a guidline<h5>general </h5><ul><li>PETG </li><li>0,2 mm layers</li><li>3 walls</li><li>3 bottom surface layers</li><li>25 % gyroid infill</li><li>normal supports with 1 mm interface spacing</li><li>interface 90° to buildplate</li><li>bridges 0° to buildplate</li></ul><h5>pins</h5><ul><li>maximum walls</li><li>concentric pattens</li><li>random seams</li></ul><h5>feet</h5><ul><li>no supports, just the bridges</li></ul><h4>label</h4><ul><li>no supports, just bridges</li><li>bridges at 45°</li><li>color change after layer 4 (base is 0,8 mm) if you want the logo to be colored differently, layer 5 and 6 get the other color</li><li>there is also a blank label included - use 2 layers (0,4 mm) for your own text</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/118174/2023-10-25_3z634haf2bnm.jpg"></figure><h4>Assembly</h4>the feet and the label need to be glued on (it is needed to save material and make it easer to print), also the handle needs to be glued togetherthe bridges used in printing have a tolerance of about 0,1 to 0,2 mm and are intended to give the glue a surface to grab on - so even if you print in PETG it will be durable bond - so if you have a multi material printer and want to use support material to have a clean surface, be aware that you intentionally make the glue surfaces “rough”after everything is glued together, add the handle and the lid with the matching pinsdue to print tolerances and the fact that they are printed with random seams the are intentionally rough so they have better friction and don't fall out. if you don't get them in straight away, turn then and move them back and forth until they snap into placethe latches need to be angled at 45° and then twisted in (just like on the original MAKPAK) &nbsp;<h4>Changelog</h4><h5>2023-06-03 v60</h5><ul><li>added body size 2, 3 and 4</li></ul><h5>2023-06-03 v59</h5><ul><li>ironed out a few “odd corners” of the body (size 1) piece in preparation for the other sizes</li></ul><h5>2023-06-02 v58</h5><ul><li>added an optimized latch piece</li></ul><h5>2023-05-29 v54</h5><ul><li>Initial release </li></ul>&nbsp;<h4>Credits / License</h4>The MAKPAC was licenced by Makita from Thanos - they have released their frist Systainer in 1994. So obviously, this model is for private use only and can't be replicated commercially.The Makita Logo i used, is taken from the Public Domain file from Wikipedia Commons: <a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Makita_Logo.svg" rel="nofollow">File:Makita Logo.svg</a> - the Registered Trademark Symbol (®) was removed, since it is too small to be printed&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

Makita MAKPAC Mini; Size 1, 2, 3 and 4 (50 % scale)

Elettronica

T_WITHE

Welcome! I am pleased to share with you the Gardena quick connector set that I designed in various sizes to perfectly meet different connection needs. The set is available with different threads and sizes:<ul><li>External and internal threads</li><li>Sizes: 3/8&#34;, 1/2&#34;, 3/4&#34;, 1&#34; (M18)</li><li>Traditional BSP thread</li></ul>Material Choice For the best results and long lifespan, I recommend the following materials for printing: PETG, ASA, ABS. PLA can also be used, but I strongly recommend the former materials. Sealing Rings Sealing rings can be printed from TPU material as it is flexible and waterproof. However, for the best results, I recommend using factory sealing rings, especially O-rings, to ensure maximum water tightness and long-term reliability.It&#39;s important to note that high pressure can cause leakage or other issues, so I do not recommend using the connector at high pressure! I experienced slight leakage at 6 bar, so please don&#39;t leave negative feedback because of this. Thank you! For supports, if possible, use support material, or use PETG-PLA or PLA-PETG interface layer mode. Thank you for choosing this 3D printable Gardena quick connector set! I hope you find it useful. If you have any questions, feel free to reach out to me! If you have any suggestions or requests, please contact me. This is a revised version of my original model with some additional sizes: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4904221" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4904221</a>

Gardena quick connector set

Per la casa

Derek Printing

Bellissimo Supporto Controller Playstation Fortnite Banana SpiaColorato da zero fornito con supporti pronto per la stampa.

Stand Controller Ps5 Fortnite Banana Spia

Regali

Andy_Mozol

Abarth 500 keychain. Printable even without ams.The keychain consists of several parts that need to be glued together.I added a stp file that allows printing with ams.The keychain is modeled for a 0.2 nozzle.Size of keychain is 67x28x3.5mm.