BH3EMQ

AlexY_

<h4>This design has been updated! Check out the improved version here: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/175289" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/175289</a></h4><h3>Overview</h3>A mini, working model of an escalator. Turns via a knob on the top right side.Motorized version available here: https://www.printables.com/model/190972-motorized-mini-desktop-escalatorLatest Fusion file: <a target="_blank" href="https://a360.co/3JnNqV1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://a360.co/3JnNqV1</a>&nbsp;Update 5/12/22: Modified the instructions to (hopefully) make it easier to assembleUpdate 4/20/22: Tweaked the end plates to reduce potential cracking and increase step clearance<h3>Non-printed parts</h3><ul><li>13 M3x12mm bolts</li><li>12 M3 nuts</li></ul><h3>Printed parts</h3>Print 64 chain links, 32 steps, and 2 end plates. Print 1 of each of the other parts.It is critical that your printer is well-calibrated precisely leveled before printing these parts. The steps in particular are very sensitive to bed leveling/adhesion. You'll want the first layer to squish only as much as is required to prevent warping; any overextrusion or elephant's foot will prevent the steps from running smoothly. I recommend applying some elephant foot compensation in your slicer to make sure the first layer is the same width as the others. It might also help to go over the track guide pieces with a deburring tool to make sure everything's smooth. Additionally, a bit of hot glue or superglue on the nuts will be good to prevent them from falling out of their sockets.<h3>Assembly</h3>This is pretty tricky. I assembled in the following order:<ol><li>Starting with the right side, lay the right outer guide down onto your work surface.</li><li>Secure the right track guide to the right outer guide with 2 bolts and nuts.</li><li>Place the right handrail mid guide on top of the right outer guide. The right track guide should be in the middle, so that they form a double path for the steps to ride on. At this point I attached the handrail guide to the outer guide by bolting each of the 4 corners, in order to make assembly easier. Note that these bolts will have to be removed when putting on the end plates.</li><li>With the right side pieces assembled, there should be 2 channels visible. Insert the steps so that the longer pin sits inside the outer channel and the shorter pin sits inside the inner channel. When done, the upper and lower sides should already look like a staircase.</li><li>Now, take the left side track guide and place it on top of the loop of steps (the non-flat side should be facing the steps). Make sure the inner (shorter) pins slot correctly into the inner channel on the left track guide. You may have to push inward on each of the steps to get the track guide to go down all the way.</li><li>Place the left handrail guide on top of the loop of steps. The outer (longer) pins of the steps should now be sandwiched between the track guide and the handrail guide.</li><li>Start placing chain links on the pins, following an alternating pattern. First join pairs of steps together with the chain links (making 16 pairs of steps), and then join the pairs together. All of the steps should now be connected by the links.</li><li>Once all the left side chain links are installed, place the non-drive side sprocket onto its spot in the top left, with the flat side of it facing away from the steps.</li><li>Place the left outer guide on top of the existing assembly, making sure that the longer pins on the steps go into the slotted track on the left outer guide.</li><li>Attach the left outer guide to the left track guide with 2 bolts and nuts.</li><li>Carefully flip the entire assembly over so that the right side is facing up.</li><li>Undo the bolts on the right side and remove the right side outer track guide.</li><li>Now install all the chain links on this side, the same way as you did in step 7.</li><li>Install the drive side sprocket. Make sure that it's rotated such that the flats on the shaft hole are lined up with the sprocket on the other side.</li><li>Put the right outer guide back on, and bolt it to the right side track guide.</li><li>Turn the entire thing upright and place an end plate between the handrail plates, and bolt them together with 4 bolts+nuts. Do the same for the other end plate.</li><li>Stick the sprocket shaft through the sprockets from the right side. Make sure it goes all the way through to fit inside the non drive sprocket on the top left. Secure this with a bolt on the left side.</li></ol>If I have time I'll post more detailed instructions with pictures on how to assemble this.<h3>Print Settings</h3>Printer:FuseBox3Rafts:NoSupports:NoResolution:0.15 or lowerInfill:10% or higherFilament: Any PLA, others like PETG probably work tooAnyCategory: Buildings & Structures

Functional Escalator Model

电梯模型

胖子天R

首先说一声抱歉，对前面下载文件打印，耽误大家时间说声对不起First of all, say sorry for the previous download file printing, say sorry for the delay in everyone's time由于做完模型，机子出现问题，没有打印验证就将模型上传，实在抱歉As the model is finished, there is a problem with the machine, and the model is uploaded without print verification. I am really sorry现在经过两个版本的更改，把切片文件进行了相应的修改，颜色分层有了最终的形态Now after two versions of the change, the slice file has been modified accordingly, and the color layer has the final shape从左到右依次是第一版到第三版From left to right are the first to the third editions<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/392365/2024-01-12_b852451f9a9e.png">第三版在HF软件里的stl文件还是颜色有点问题，手动的将颜色层高改变了The third version of the stl file in the HF software is still a little color problem, and the color level is changed manually----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------原始的高度：Original height:Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.08mm with a base layer of 0.16mmFilaments Used: PETG JAYO Black Transmission Distance: 0.3 PLA+ Sunlu Pure Yellow Transmission Distance: 5 PLA+ Sunlu Red Transmission Distance: 6 PLA+ Sunlu White Transmission Distance: 5!!!! It appears you have mixed filament types. Be certain this is what you want. !!!!!Swap Instructions: Start with Black At layer #11 (0.96mm) swap to Pure Yellow At layer #12 (1.04mm) swap to Red At layer #19 (1.6mm) swap to White for the rest. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------更改后的高度：Changed height:Swap Instructions: Start with Black At layer #11 (0.96mm) swap to Pure Yellow At layer #12 (1.04mm) swap to Red At layer #31 (1.6mm) swap to White for the rest.---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------也就是让红色多一些能够显示出更多的细节，当然你也可以自己修改颜色的层高得到更好的效果That is, let the red more to show more details, of course, you can also modify the height of the color to get a better effect很感谢大家对我的批评和指正，谢谢大家的支持，我会更严谨的使用软件制作出模型，并测试后分享出来，谢谢大家！Thank you very much for your criticism and correction, thank you for your support, I will use the software more rigorously to make a model, and test and share it, thank you!利用MJ生成的剪纸浮雕图像Using MJ generated decoupage relief image在hueforge软件中生成模型文件Generate model files in HueForge software&nbsp;

电梯模型

默认