Kons1337

BenXC

This is a complete chess figure set collection of 32 pieces. Its design and dimensions are similar to the staunton chess design which is used for championships. These have to be printed two times each in different color schemes. For the knights you&#39;ll need a PETG filament to have seamless support at their heads. If you want yo can pause the print at layer 65 to insert some 10x2mm magnets into the base of the figures. I hope you&#39;ll like it!&nbsp;

Chess Set Pieces Figures

Games

christiansotelo2244

A modular hydroponic tower garden made by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.thingiverse.com/boundarycondition" rel="nofollow noopener">boundarycondition</a> on thingsverse!

Modular Hydroponic Tower Garden

Hydroponic Tower

schiko

Clamp to fix the <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/16606#profileId-15400" rel="nofollow noopener">Pastamatic Spool Winder</a> on a board.&nbsp;You need 4 of them and a wood board (mine is 425x210mm).Made for 4mm ball head screws.&nbsp;I originally posted this model at <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/501756-clamp-for-pastamatic-spool-winder-to-fix-on-a-boar" rel="nofollow noopener">Printables</a>.

Clamp for Pastamatic Spool Winder (to fix on a board)

Pastamatic Spool Winder

Vinrisa

Printed the axis in ABSx, the other parts in PLA. Works mostly fine, had some issues fitting gear over the axis and had to file it down. Sometimes the guide gets stuck, especially if the spool is non-bambu and has the wrong size. Apart from that works fine and is really usefull, getting filament from non-AMS-compatible spools to (Bambu) spools :)&nbsp;"Purely mechanically controlled filament winder for Bambu Lab P1, X1, X1C or X1CC 3D Printer. Printed on Bambu Lab X1 CC. Watch the videos first at the bottom, at the end of the description. If there is news about the model, you will find out there first.The model is available for free download and use. If you still want to invite me for a coffee for my effort, troubles and time (I ran out of filaments a couple of times), you can do it via: <a target="_blank" href="https://paypal.me/mikloskiszely" rel="nofollow noopener">https://paypal.me/mikloskiszely</a>Please use always bed leveling & flow calibration for this model, especially for the gears and axles! Bambu Lab P1 should at least be calibrated. (linear advance) I uploaded some print suggestions as *.3mf files. (5 print plates for Bambu Lab / Bambu Studio with PEI plate @ the end of the list - attention, not cold plate)Update: I tested the "maschine" again and again and it happened to me too: the 45 mm axle (the driven one) broke! The 3 walls and 25% infil are not enough!If you haven't printed it yet or broke it, then please print it with:<ul><li>0.16mm Optimal @BBL profile</li><li>5 or more wall loops</li><li>100% infill (sparse infill density)</li><li>Rectilinear (sparse infill pattern - set automatically)</li><li>speed outer wall (slow as possible for more accuracy) e.g. max 60 mm/s</li><li>support (yes) normal (auto)</li></ul>Update 2: If the stronger printer settings for Axis 45mm are not enough, the you can also print the “Heavy Load” version (see folder “Heavy Load Parts”)Centering discs: If you need a special size, you can decrease or increase the next size in the slicer program. E.g. if you need 51.5 mm, then you can take the 50 mm disc and scale up accordingly before printing. (51.5 / 50 = 1.03, i.e. print 3% larger) Reference print settings for:<ul><li>Winder Spool Holder Main Body</li><li>Donor Spool Holder Frame</li><li>Winder and Donor Right Hand Spool Axle Nut</li><li>Donor Spool Holder Axle without Gear</li><li>all Spooler Centering Discs (50/55/60/65 mm)</li></ul>Settings:<ul><li>0.20mm Standard @BBL X1C Profile +custom settings:</li><li>Wall loops: 3</li><li>Outer wall: 60 mm/s</li><li>Infill 25 %</li><li>if you need support, don't do it at the vertical ball bearing openings support can be used under the filament carriage holder and under the lower ball bearing for the filament sled. (paint it manually)</li></ul>Print settings for:<ul><li>all Gears</li><li>all shafts / axis (except the driven one 45 mm, see above)</li><li>handle or drill adapter parts</li><li>all washers</li><li>and all Filament Guide parts</li></ul>Settings:<ul><li>0.16mm Optimal @BBL X1C</li><li>Wall loops: 3</li><li>Outer wall: 60 mm/s</li><li>Infill 25 %</li><li>no support needed, except: all axis with hexagon </li></ul>please print all parts (gears, axis) horizontally, except:<ul><li>Winder Right Hand Spool Axle with Gear 25 teeth or the Heavy Load version</li><li>Winder and Donor Right Hand Spool Axle Nut</li><li>Gear Worm</li><li>Rotary handle - twist grip - axis</li><li>Rotary handle - twist grip - knob</li><li>Donor Spool Holder Axle without Gear</li></ul>Multiple Prints:<ul><li>all centering disc's 2x per spool</li><li>4 x Washer 3.0 x 8.5 mm</li><li>2 x Gear with 50 teeths</li></ul>Additions parts:<ul><li>7 x 608 bearing</li><li>12-15 cm PTFE tube</li><li>4 x M3 hexagon socket screw (optional, you can also glue the filament guide & sled)</li></ul>Have Fun!Assembly Instructions:<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/vjryQtlMMHc"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vjryQtlMMHc" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>…and how it works:<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/00lXbrWMZwo"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/00lXbrWMZwo" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>And troubleshooting (if you have any):<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/7t9KhT1nMEE"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/7t9KhT1nMEE" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>If you have still trouble with the original driven 45mm axis, print the Heavy Load Parts:"<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/MZDmtgrFLw8"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/MZDmtgrFLw8" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>

Bambu Lab P1 / X1 / X1C / X1CC Filament Spool Switcher & Winder if you use AMS

Spool Winder Miklos Kiszely

fay3dlab

i tried making a new type of suspended model for my Star wars collection.. This is a book nook diorama of the famous trench run.. although i didnt have a tie fighter so i changed it to a tie interceptor.. i might do another one with a tie fighter later.. since its printed in 2 parts.. i could also change up the ships..<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/798245/2024-04-01_0e523998b2e09.gif"></figure>The 2 parts are joined together using pegs insert.. the front part has a channel for the LED strips.. its fairly easy to assemble.. just be careful with the laser coming from the tie interceptor.. it goes in between the strings for the x-wing..<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:35.77%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/798245/2024-04-01_8b1527dc2f0cf.jpg"></figure>In order to keep the x-wing wings stick to buildplate.. i made a small brimm for it.. you can remove it before assembling the 2 parts together.The book nook measures at 15cm width 20cm height and 20cm deep..&nbsp;If you&#39;re interested in getting the LED strips.. here&#39;s my affiliate link to buy it.. 5V USB RGB LED Strip Light <a target="_blank" href="https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_oEk0hDa" rel="nofollow noopener">https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_oEk0hDa</a>&nbsp;As always i also prepped the 3mf files for multicolor prints as well.. and remember when printing suspended models.. set the wall generator to arachne from classic.. this will make the slicer print the strings.. and NO SUPPORTS..&nbsp;I hope you guys have fun printing this new version of the suspended book nook<figure class="table" style="height:162.344px;width:960px;"><table style="background-color:rgb(255, 255, 255);border:1px double rgb(179, 179, 179);"><tbody><tr><td style="border:1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;">If you would like to support me, you can join me on my <a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/fay3dlab" rel="nofollow noopener">buymeacoffee</a> page..</td></tr><tr><td style="border:1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;">By joining me as a supporter.. you&#39;ll be able to get behind the scenes informationon my current projects as well as future projects..</td></tr><tr><td style="border:1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;">And if you&#39;re looking to sell my prints.. you can join my merchant membership tier as lowas USD10 a month..</td></tr></tbody></table></figure>

Book Nook Suspended Trench Run

<h3>Description</h3>This is the top mounted system based on my other rail system that can be found <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/496862#profileId-411226" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a>&nbsp;AMS Lite Rail Top Mount.This rail system allows you to pull the ams lite out on a track to be able to swap filament rolls a lot easier and then tuck away again before printing.&nbsp;&nbsp;PrintingAll parts should be printed in petg, i printed with a .6mm nozzle for additional strength.<ul><li>Knurled nut test is useful for insuring that a knurled nut will fit the ams holder before printing</li><li>The AMS Holder is printed upright to provide better strength / resistant to splitting on the layer lines, be careful with this part as it is tall and bed slingers are not as good with tall thinner items, brim is essential but I also recommend using 3dlac on your bed, slowing down the print speed and printing this part independant of the others will also help.</li><li>The rails I recommend printing upright for additional strength, however this creates a lot of noise when sliding the ams back and forth so I personally opted to print them flat</li><li>braces are optional additional safety measures to provide more contact with the rail in case something does split</li></ul>&nbsp;Installation&nbsp;<ul><li>AMS Holder will mount where the original holder was but before screwing onto the ams lite you can use the holder as a guide to screw the rails onto a surface. (make sure to leave enough clearance between the wall and endstop for the filament rolls). As an additional safety measure I have made holes for all 4 screw holes on the ams lite.</li></ul><img class="image_resized" style="width: 36.42%" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497189/design/2024-06-15_492e7c0aebff1.png">&nbsp;<ul><li>When installing the rails I used the ams holder as a guide to align the rails, fixed them to the surface using vhb tape and then screwed in place, there are additional holes for mounting the rails to provide extra support, depending on where you are mounting these you may wish to use m3 bolts instead.</li></ul><img class="image_resized" style="width: 13.93%" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497189/design/2024-06-15_964d309b03031.jpg">&nbsp;<ul><li>If you find the rails a bit to tight use a knife or deburring tool to take a bit of the plastic off, I also recommend using some candle wax(dry) to lubricate the rails up, this will reduce friction and create a nicer sliding motion.</li><li>Depending on where you mount this you may need to extend the ams lite connection cable, I haven&#39;t needed to do this, there is plenty of information on line if you need to.</li></ul>&nbsp;<ul><li>I have included additional braces for the ams holder, this enables better contact and additional support for the holder, you will need <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcing-map-Knurled-Insert-Embedding/dp/B09MCWZ5RV/ref=sr_1_4?crid=51WFEDPDTQOL&amp;dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.ZrfEMiJ_t_DT9yfQEU17dloahTuQGM2Rqt-7Mm5Q2U4jBJpEene9PWPtQkq2MVaU6eSX4bxi8eFELBh5pY24x5D5Wug4m2xMZwBu6A-3MtpOUBjibeb8NOl414VqJzQ3lwgE9qNqtl_OK5wftx2unY9vFrv78aEDTRuO8F6Zrw7IByz8w4Wu7PGe5GN6zeGmS4M9wAj36-DvtTonZP5GyZGqs0bztYfZ95_D5aWYTRp3u1e36Yh6CKp8cUSSBAFkfC8zd8wuIYLou60p_Mbur3RaRzmYhtpqqLocXCOOTBw.0UvfsJQEaQms2-dOlRsl9BbL_iSIzOmrWfwoviwtoBc&amp;dib_tag=se&amp;keywords=m4%2B8%2B6%2Bknurled%2Bnut&amp;qid=1718472885&amp;s=industrial&amp;sprefix=m4%2B8%2B6%2Bknurled%2Bnut%2Cindustrial%2C157&amp;sr=1-4&amp;th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">m4 knurled nuts</a>, short m4 bolts and a soldering iron for this optional part.</li></ul><img class="image_resized" style="width: 29.2%" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497189/design/2024-06-15_2029cc867000e.jpg"><img class="image_resized" style="width: 30.03%" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000497189/design/2024-06-15_3df11e2f47446.jpg">&nbsp;The center hole in the brace is for an optional steel safety wire you can loop through the whole system.&nbsp;I have included a lot of additional safety features which are probably over the top but depending on your setup you may find these helpful, it&#39;s also worth noting that you may need to print some additional ptfe organisers to keep tubes from catching but this will depending on your setup.&nbsp;PTFE guide can be found <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/498396#profileId-412980" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a> if you find your tubes getting snagged on the cutter&nbsp;&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/albionrapture" rel="nofollow noopener">Buy Me A Coffee</a>

AMS Lite Rail Top Mount - Holder

A1 Upgrades

cyanidesugar

Can it do the Kessel Run in 12 parsecs? Who knows?! &nbsp;This is a fairly simple print-in-place Hueforge Hybrid print-in-place piece that combines filament painting methods and traditional 3D printing methods in one singular print. It utilises 4 filament colours, 3 for the Hueforge print, and one for the Millennium Falcon. &nbsp;If you are using the one-click 3MF file on Makerworld, all appropriate settings have been applied to the print. If you are not using the one-click printing method, or are NOT using a Bambu printer, see the print instructions below: &nbsp;Print Instructions: <ol><li>Print the hueforge print (0mm - 2.08mm) at 100% infill.</li><li>The Millennium Falcon portion of the print (2.08mm - 80mm) should be printed at 10% infill, with 3 wall loops, 3 top and bottom surfaces. I used a layer height of 0.16mm.</li><li>You can achieve this by using a layer height modifier in your slicer to modify layers 2.08mm-80mm.</li><li>You do not need any supports for this print. </li><li>I used Burnt Titanium as the background for the print, but you can use any variation of a dark or black colour.</li><li>I used Polymaker's Starlight Mercury for the Millennium Falcon, but you can use any gray or silver variant, or whatever you like!</li></ol>Filament Swaps: &nbsp;Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.08mm with a base layer of 0.2mm&nbsp;Filaments Used: - PLA Flashforge Burnt Titanium Transmission Distance: 2.5 - (You can use black!) - PLA META Sunlu Teal Transmission Distance: 5.4 - PLA Kingroon White Transmission Distance: 8- PLA Polymaker Starlight Mercury (This is for the Millennium Falcon!)&nbsp;Swap Instructions: - Start with Burnt Titanium - At layer #7 (0.68mm) swap to Teal - At layer #11 (1mm) swap to White- At layer #23 (1.96) swap to Starlight Mercury (this is the Falcon!)&nbsp;The wonderful Millennium Falcon model was sourced from <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/212461-fillenium-malcon-improved" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a> by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@Gareth42_280557" rel="nofollow noopener">Gareth42</a>. If you haven't yet, you should definitely print the standalone model, because it it marvellous! &nbsp;Have fun, and let me know how you go with the print! &nbsp;____________________________________ Commercial License to Sell PrintsIf you want to sell any physical models I have uploaded anywhere, an unrestricted commercial license is available on the $10AUD tier of my <a target="_blank" href="https://patreon.com/cyanidesugar3DP?utm_medium=clipboard_copy&utm_source=copyLink&utm_campaign=creatorshare_creator&utm_content=join_link" rel="nofollow noopener">Patreon</a>! ____________________________________&nbsp;

Piece of Junk in Space - Hueforge Hybrid Print

Hueforge

AU3D

This shelf features a straightforward design with simple supports. The corners are intentionally left unrounded, allowing you to mount multiple boards side by side for a seamless, continuous surface. The shelf comes in two widths (240mm and 160mm) and three depths (100mm, 80mm, and 60mm). To ensure optimal results, please ensure your build plate is thoroughly clean, as the sharp corners can lead to warping. Personally, I did not experience wraping with Basic PLA on my P1P though.<h3>More Sizes</h3><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/516526" rel="nofollow noopener">This set of shelves for DIY boards</a> offers additonal width, all fully compatible with the original Skadis boards.<h3>Skadis Collection</h3>I am constantly developing more IKEA Skadis attachments. Check out my<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/2942852598/collections/453266" rel="nofollow noopener">IKEA Skadis Shelves, Trays and Container Collection</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/2942852598/collections/188108" rel="nofollow noopener">General IKEA Skadis Collection</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/@AU3D/collections/1044616" rel="nofollow noopener">IKEA SKADIS Boards Collection</a></li></ul>

Skadis Shelf

IKEA SKADIS

Pulsar Designs

Version 2 of my Seed Planter Tool design. This design improves upon the ease-of-use and strength of the tool in comparison with version 1. Horizontal printing of the handle greatly improves inter-layer strength and reduces the risk of breaking. I also moved the tool shaft to the space between the point and middle finger for added comfort.&nbsp;Enjoy!

Seed Planter Tool V2

Dekoration 

duck.knapp

I&#39;ve wanted to build an insert press for a long time. then I looked for something that I didn&#39;t have to buy extra parts for and was &#34;good enough&#34;, but again I didn&#39;t find anything...&nbsp;&nbsp;so I developed my own press. You can print everything except 6x 608 zz ball bearings which you have to press in.&nbsp;&nbsp;For assembly you need: - First the 6 bearings are pressed in - join your arms - arms to the headpiece - arms with headpiece to the base&nbsp;&nbsp;It is important to ensure that everything is printed very precisely and does not wobble too much. It&#39;s better to be slightly too tight and grease it than to be too loose. The pins for tapping in should be tested beforehand. They are designed so that they have to be shuttered, but the material should not split apart.&nbsp;It&#39;s not an easy print but I think it&#39;s cool XD&nbsp;Material: PETG, ABS, Nylon or so&nbsp;btw: In the pictures you can see the old arms, now they are different lengthsand as always if you think of something that I can change/improve, please let me know

Heat Set Insert Press (99% 3D-Printed)

Tools

FallenAngel

Mug to hold typical beer cans ( The slot is ~70mm in diameter). Mug's Height is ~150mm &nbsp;Note: requires Support at few areas.

Mug - Dragon Version 

Kitchen

Makefy

It's planting season!<blockquote> TIP: Use a cotton pad in the bottom of each pot to keep the dirt from spilling into the bottom tray! &nbsp;</blockquote>&nbsp;This is a new version of a design I made and tested last season. Turned out to work great.The assembly consists of the following parts: Bottom Tray: <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/678120/2024-03-09_52bc4f5b6a06.png"> This is the main part which holds water. It has guides for the pots and slots for the connecting beams. It should have enough solid bottom layers to avoid any infill. Just to make sure it's completly watertight.&nbsp;Connecting Beam: <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/678120/2024-03-09_ab0b1e814f06f.png"> This is the part that supports the top plate. You will need 4 of these &nbsp;Pot: <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/678120/2024-03-09_fb839ee86539c.png"> This is the pot itself. It consists of two parts that snap together. PLA seems to hold up pretty good for this part, but PETG or ABS might be a better choice. Top Plate: <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/678120/2024-03-09_df2f64c41e23d.png"> This parts connects to the bottom tray with the four beams and holds the pots Greenhouse Dome: <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/678120/2024-03-09_66dfe67204146.png"> This is a clear cover which provides a warm and humid environment for the seedlings. This part is provided in a separate print profile and should be printed in clear PETG or PC: — OPTIONAL --- Dirt Funnel: <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/678120/2024-03-09_5f6384536a117.png"> The funnel makes it easier to fill the pots with dirt The Pestle: <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/678120/2024-03-09_2ac2891fe5821.png"> Use this to gently pack the dirt.

Self Watering Seed Starter/Planter with Splittable Pots and Greenhouse Dome

Garden

Hugo

<h3>The reason behind this project</h3>I absolutely love 3D-printed storage systems, but there&#39;s one thing I don&#39;t like about them: how the bins connect to each other. With most systems out there, you need to print a base grid or tiny connecting pieces, which is a bit of a hassle. And the attempts at interconnecting storage systems are not aestheticly pleasing. That&#39;s why I came up with this new design! I wanted interlocking bins of various sizes that can connect on each side but with a sleek and simple design.I&#39;ve also added small bumps on the inside, which means you can add accessories and customise each bin to a dedicated task.And to create custom storage boxes, I&#39;ve adapted my <a href="https://www.printables.com/model/761101-snaplock-storage-boxes" rel="nofollow">SnapLock </a>model to accommodate the bins.&nbsp;<h3>How to choose the size</h3>The standard bin, Bin_1x1x1, is 60x60x50mm outer dimensions.All the dimensions in the STL names are based on those dimensions*Every bin is named as follow : Bin_length x width x heightThe other flat components such as lids are named : Lid_length x width&nbsp;*The other bins are not exact multiples of the standard bin as I take into account the interconnecting part&nbsp;<h3>Test print</h3>I encourage you to test the fit by printing 2 Bin_1x1x0.5It should be a nice, snug fit, but not so tight that it&#39;s impossible to split.&nbsp;<h3>Printing</h3>All the STLs are oriented to be printed directly No support neededYou can use any materialThe sweet spot between material use and rigidity for me is 2 walls ans 5% infill with a 0.4mm nozzle (bigger nozzle should work as well)&nbsp;<h3>Accessories </h3>You can even put the bins on their side to act as drawers.For the moment I have designed several accessories that fit inside or outside the bins :<ul><li>Drawers (I used the plastic&#39;s elasticity to lock them in place while closed)<ul><li>Assembled drawer</li><li>Screw drawer</li></ul></li><li>Lid (to close any bin</li><li>Screw organizer</li><li>Tray</li><li>Battery holder</li><li>Pen holder</li><li>SnapLock storage box</li></ul>&nbsp;Feel free to give me some feedback if you give this project a try :)