Kellnis3D

SavageLau

<h3>If you want commercial license, check out my bio and get it from Patreon.</h3>&nbsp;<h3> Fully 3d printed parts. Super smooth. No other hardware needed. The fitting for rods and cap are permanent, you can try to take it apart, but most likely it will break. </h3><h3> </h3> So, one day my boss saw the planter pot and she said that would be a great massage thing. <figure class="image image_resized" style="width:30.17%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/399858/2023-11-19_fa782f3cc4103.jpg"></figure> I had to say yes, becasue she is “boss”. so, I combine two stuffs on my design inventory, filament roller for Ender 3 and this planter pot. <figure class="image image_resized" style="width:27.13%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/399858/2023-11-19_58f817532887b.png"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:23.89%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/399858/2023-11-19_163f06c2c688f.png"></figure> And the final outcome is this. Lol<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:42.17%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/399858/2023-11-19_3c5da977e1afa.png"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:49.51%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/399858/2023-11-19_eaf156783d992.jpg"></figure>That's how you printed it: or just use my print file. ADD Brim!!!!!!<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:63.12%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/399858/2023-11-19_c69f712f94b55.png"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:63.43%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/399858/2023-11-20_77602b8200de4.jpg"></figure>

Massage Roller (Fully printed)

others

Luke-Leek-98

F1 Trophy inspired by the one created by Pininfarina and Lenovo for the 2023 Suzuka and Austin F1 grand prix.I uploaded 3 different print profiles: <ul><li>a trophy like the one from Suzuka</li><li>a trophy like the one from Austin </li><li>a trophy using only 2 colors (white and black)</li></ul>In print profiles the scale is 60% but it is possible to increase it.Printed with Bambu Lab X1 Carbon.

F1 Trophy by Pininfarina and Lenovo

Troysterr

<h2>Summary</h2><a target="_blank" href="https://a360.co/3NrX2TC" rel="nofollow noopener">Full 3D View</a>The Lotus Seven was produced by the British car manufacturer Lotus between 1957 and 1972. It is a simple, lightweight open top two-seater. Early engines didn't have much horsepower, but the car has always been quick and sporty because of its weight.<h3>What is a "pinewood derby car shell"?</h3>The <a target="_blank" href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pinewood_derby" rel="nofollow noopener">pinewood derby</a> is an event created by the Boy Scouts many years ago. Each scout is given a pinewood derby kit typically consisting of a block of wood with slots for axles, 4 wheels, and 4 nails to be used as axles. The scout (and his dad, usually) will then carve the block of wood into the shape of a car, paint it and apply stickers, install the wheels on the axles, and then race it at the "derby", which involves a sloped track with a timekeeping apparatus.&nbsp;An official scout derby will usually require that the parts in the kit be used for cars entered in the derby. Other organizations (including workplaces) often hold derbies, too, and some of them require the use of the parts in the box, including the block of wood.&nbsp;These "pinewood derby car shells" are intended to be used with an official derby wood block, cut down to size, along with the axles and wheels included in the kit. A printable model of the shaped wood block is provided. You can either use the printed model or use it to accurately cut an official wood block down to size.<h2>Print Settings</h2>Notes:<ul><li>Car body: Extensive supports are required. In Bambu Studio, I use Normal (auto) supports in Snug style. I prefer ABS for my car bodies because it sands smoother than PLA, even after using the smoothing technique described below. But PLA will work.</li><li>The wheels, front fenders and exhaust also require some supports.</li><li>Steering wheel, rear fenders: Outer brim suggested.</li><li>All other parts print really easily.</li></ul><h2>Post-Printing</h2>Just super glue all the parts together.&nbsp;“Show wheels and tires” are included, but are optional. They are not suitable for racing--you should use the wheels that come with the kit if you race the car.<h3>Smoothing</h3>This car was smoothed with 3d printing resin and baby powder. You can find videos and guides online that describe the process, but here it is in a nutshell:<ul><li>Mix 1 part resin and 2-3 parts baby powder in an opaque container (so that it can be stored without hardening due to UV exposure).</li><li>Using a paintbrush or cotton swab, spread a thin layer of the resin/baby powder mix over the body, wherever you want to smooth print lines and gaps.</li><li>Use a UV flashlight (a cheap one--like the kind used to harden resin finger nail polish, which you can order from Amazon or buy in the pharmacy department of Walmart) to harden the resin.</li><li>Sand the body smooth until there are no thick layers left.</li><li>Repeat over any areas that are still rough.</li></ul><h3>Weights</h3>You can add tungsten weights to the holes in the rear of the body. If you plan well, and use enough infill, you can maximize the weights and end up right at 5 oz.

1957 Lotus Seven (Pinewood Derby Car Shell)

čára

cwills75

***Update 2*** Another user reported that this extension cable works with the AMS Lite to extend it if you do not want to make your own: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802718701254.html" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802718701254.html</a> ***Update 1*** I've uploaded a new angled wall mount as I had requests for one. Depending on which direction you mount it, the PTFE tubes will either angle up or down slightly. I have some pictures uploaded with it mounted at an upward angle. This does move it out a little over an inch further from the wall, which was necessary to make sure all of the spools cleared. The mounting holes, TPU gasket and TPU cable channel do not change, so if you have already printed/mounted the non-angled one, you can use the same gasket, cable channel and mounting holes as the first one if you want to switch. This is a wall mount for the Bambu A1 Mini AMS Lite. It doesn't require the original AMS Lite stand to save space and make a more clean design. The main wall mount uses four screws on either side to connect the AMS Lite to. The original stand only uses two screws per side, but it has holes for four. All eight holes are untapped and when you insert screws, it will self-tap threads into the plastic, just as the screws that Bambu supplies for this purpose do. The walls of the mount have also been increased in thickness from the original stand, so the stock screws Bambu supplies are too short. This thickness increase adds much more rigidity to the stand. There is a 3mm thick gasket that is the size of the base of the wall mount, designed to be printed in TPU and placed between the mount and the wall. This is to help reduce any vibration from the AMS Lite being transmitted into the wall, along with some slight strain relief. Finally, there is a cable channel piece that should also be printed in TPU, which is then inserted into the bottom of the mount. You can then press-fit the AMS Lite cable into this channel, which will keep it out of the way from possibly catching on your spools. The AMS Lite can be mounted upside-down, and you will have to do that if you don't make/purchase an extension cable, as the cable is very short. Ideally, you should obtain or make an extension cable, allowing you to mount the AMS Lite in the proper position so the numbers are right-side up, and then the AMS spool slots will correspond correctly in the Bambu Studio slicer and A1 AMS screen. With the AMS Lite mounted correctly, the cable will come out of the top, feed through the center of the wall mount and then down through the cable channel. I have been playing with the vertical placement of my AMS Lite, along with the distance of it to the A1 Mini to see how much I can shorten the PTFE tubes without having any issues. I have had limited success with printing some harder shore TPU from the AMS Lite, but if in doubt, mount it higher than I have mine in the pictures and don't cut your PTFE tubing. Like I said, I'm still experimenting and don't mind buying some extra PTFE tubing as it is cheap. Just make sure wherever you mount it, each AMS slot can reach the A1 extruder head in all positions it can move (left to right, and up and down). You should also use some common sense regarding wall mounting your AMS Lite. It isn't terribly heavy, even when loaded with four full spools. A full spool is roughly 2.2 lbs, so the entire assembly with the wall mount, AMS Lite and spools is probably 12-13 lbs total. Ideally, the wall mount can be mounted into a wall stud, but even if mounting in drywall, relatively basic drywall anchors are capable of holding around 40-50 lbs. Still, if mounting in drywall, I would recommend heavy duty drywall anchors for piece of mind. Most local hardware stores sell drywall anchors that can individually hold well over 100 lbs. For print settings, it doesn't really matter much how you print the TPU pieces. I wouldn't print them with very high infill, maybe like 10-15% so they still have some squish to them. The cable channel piece should fit snugly in the hole of the wall mount. I cannot predict all the materials, profile settings and ambient temperatures of everyone's setup, so giving you exact settings on printing the wall mount for the best strength is something you should work out for yourself. I would recommend using a PLA+ or Pro or Tough filament, which is a lot stronger than basic PLA. I made mine with PolyLite PLA Pro with 50% infill, slower speeds and low fan speeds to increase layer bonding. Obviously the faster you print things, and the more fan that you use, the weaker your parts are. If in doubt, do some test prints of cylinders and then try snapping them in half to see what settings you are happy with. Bambu's PLA Tough is very similar to PolyLite PLA Pro, and would also be a good choice. PETG would also be a good choice, and I have had many garage tools, jack stands, hose mounts, etc., made with PETG hanging in my garage for years with no issues. For mounting the AMS Lite to the wall mount, you will need eight #4 x ½" pan head sheet meal screws. To mount the wall mount to the wall, #10 x 1 ½" screws are recommended for mounting in wall studs. If you are mounting in drywall, use your best judgement based on my advice above. Unfortunately, the biggest issue with wall mounting this is the short AMS Lite cable length. I ended up using these parts to make my a cable. I had everything on-hand except the male/female connectors, but I will post links for everything required if you were to build a cable from scratch and do not have any of the other parts. The connectors are Molex Micro-Fit 3.0 2x2. They are cheapest on Aliexpress, but you can get them faster from Amazon here: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078Q798L9" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078Q798L9</a> There may be crimpers that are cheaper, but this is the pair I have and used to crimp the connectors onto the wires: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YGLKBSK/" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YGLKBSK/</a> Most thin wires you have on-hand will probably work, as the AMS Lite doesn't send much voltage/current through. I used this: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G2LRX68/" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G2LRX68/</a> If you would like to make your cable look nice and clean/professional, I would also recommend some braided sleeving: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FTN4VSP" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FTN4VSP</a> And some heat shrink tubing for the two ends: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B1D19LVW/" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B1D19LVW/</a> I have an image uploaded that shows the correct pinout for the extension cable ends. If you've never crimped connectors like this before, there are some Youtube videos such as this one that shows the basic process: <figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1ErLvXlOTs"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/D1ErLvXlOTs" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure> Alternatively, Molex sells male-to-male and female-to-female pre-wired Micro-Fit 3.0 cables, and they have various distributors that also sell them such as Digi-Key and Mouser Electronics. This would probably be the easiest method to extend your AMS Lite cable if you are not used to creating your own cables connector ends/wires. You can go to Molex's site here: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.molex.com/en-us/part-list/cable-assemblies?taxonomyPathValueLast=Power+and+Signal+Cable+Assemblies&physical_circuitsLoaded=4&materialMaster_promotable=true&physical_numberOfRows=2&productNameList=Micro-Fit+3.0&page=2&general_connectorToConnector=Micro-Fit+3.0+Both+Ends" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.molex.com/en-us/part-list/cable-assemblies?taxonomyPathValueLast=Power+and+Signal+Cable+Assemblies&physical_circuitsLoaded=4&materialMaster_promotable=true&physical_numberOfRows=2&productNameList=Micro-Fit+3.0&page=2&general_connectorToConnector=Micro-Fit+3.0+Both+Ends</a> And look for the parts you would like, and see what distributors show stock in your location. Molex makes 150mm, 300mm and 600mm cables, and as you will need a M-M and F-F cable and then plug them into each other to create a M-F extension cable, your total cable length would then be 300mm, 600mm or 1200mm. They also sell versions with tin-plated or gold-plated connectors. I made my extension cable about a foot and a half (450ish mm), and have no issues with the AMS Lite operation. As with anything electrical, the longer you extend a cable, and the more adapters/connectors from the source to the target, you have the possibility for more cable resistance, resistance based heat, signal loss, etc, so Vulcan logic would dictate to use the shortest extension cable length necessary for your application. ;) Once everything is printed and an extension cable is made, installation is easy: 1. Determine where you are going to mount the AMS Lite, ideally on a wall stud. 2. Place the TPU gasket or wall mount vertically on the wall and mark the two mounting hole positions. 3. Drill appropriately sized holes in the wall/studs. 4. Place the TPU gasket between the wall and the mount and use two screws to mount the wall mount to the wall. 5. Place the AMS Lite into the wall mount (a helper is useful here for an extra hand or two), and feed the AMS Lite cable through the wall mount, then insert all eight screws, securing the AMS Lite to the mount. 6. Insert the TPU cable channel piece into the bottom of the wall mount, pull the AMS Lite cable taught and press-fit the cable into the TPU piece. 7. Attach the AMS Lite cable to the extension cable you made, and plug the extension cable into the A1 Mini.

Bambu A1 Mini AMS Lite Heavy Duty Wall Mount

bambu upgrades

Scattered Collectables

Easy to print Cubone skull with ornamental details, great for a display item.&nbsp;supports only needed for the bottom section&nbsp;Print outer walls slower to acheive presentable overhangs&nbsp;for rights to sell prints visit https://www.patreon.com/ScatteredCollectables

Cubone Skull Ornamental Pokemon

pokemon

franceschellifederico

NOTE: Use my profile and please do not change the print profile settings if you want to get a perfect result! The layers are adaptive and the speed of the external wall is reduced to obtain a wonderful lucidity effect :)&nbsp;Embrace simplicity and contemporary elegance with this meticulously crafted lowpoly vase design. Its minimalist aesthetic seamlessly blends modern artistry with functional design. Carefully sculpted edges and clean lines define its silhouette, offering a striking visual appeal that enhances any space. Add a touch of sophistication to your décor with this unique, artful vase, perfect for showcasing your favorite blooms or standing proudly as a standalone piece. Elevate your surroundings with this fusion of simplicity and modernity.

Low Poly Vase

vaše

Mario3D

In recent years I have created several business award trophies which have been very successful. I was looking forward to this contest to share my design strengths with the community.&nbsp;I present to your attention a universal trophy, suitable for any event, business or family.&nbsp;If you like my work, please like and follow me for more 3d models.Happy 3D Printing!

Awards Trophy

trophy

BrandedAbstract3D

<h3>Model</h3>Drinks coaster set designed to resemble Brembo Racing Brakes, unique and functional, great for any workshop, desk, or garage. It's a great conversation starter for anyone who loves cars. Always adds a touch of car scene to your surroundings.&nbsp;To complete the phone holder you'll need:<ul><li>1 x Caliper (printable)</li><li>4 x Brake Discs (printable)</li><li>4 x Display Screws (printable)</li><li>1 x Brembo Vanity Plate (printable)</li></ul><h3>Print Settings</h3>I usually go for the BBL “Standard” 0.20mm settings. It seems to strike the right balance between quality and speed compared to other profiles. I'm a fan of the consistent layer height of 0.2mm, but variable layer height is good too! Feel free to play around with the print quality settings to see what works best for you. I've had success with BBL Filaments and various other brands, but for Silk PLA, slowing down the outer walls and top layers to around 50mm/s seems best.&nbsp;<ul><li>Caliper: Use a 15% rectilinear infill—it's sturdy enough to hold all four of the coasters. And, I set the seam position to “back”. Essentially can't see any of the seams from the front.</li><li>Brake Disc: Gone for a 5% infill, saving print time. I also read that a lot of the thermal transfer gets stopped by air so the more holes in the coaster the better (especially when using hot drinks) so I figured less infill could = less melted PLA. From the PLA I've used hot drinks work great on these coasters, the contact patch between the coaster and the cup/glass is actually remarkably small and hasn't melted anything at all! The bottom surface pattern is concentric to give it that super-consistent smooth look and the top layer is Archemedian Chords I find this gives the discs a nice partially worn look.</li><li>Display Screws: Use a 15% infill. This part is mostly for show and serves no real use other than aesthetics. I use a standard PEI Plate and haven't had a problem with them being knocked over while printing. If you do I'd suggest using a brim and that'll fix that issue.</li><li>Brembo Vanity Plate: There are two Brembo branded plates that you can stick on to the caliper. You can use CA glue to attach it, and it'll work perfectly. One plate has the Brembo logo upside down, simulating how it would be on an actual brake caliper. The other plate is right side up, making it easier to read the branding when the coaster is on your desk.</li></ul>Assembly is straightforward; you can easily get it from the photos. Insert the display screws into the holes, adding a dab of glue before inserting them. Apply some glue to the Vanity Plate and attach it to the front; it's super simple to align.&nbsp;Happy Printing!

Brembo Drinks Coaster Set

great desings

Stefan Heer

You just need a 24V LED stripe (10mm), some wire, M3x6 screws & nuts and a switch (<a href="https://de.aliexpress.com/item/32921026422.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.42.50cf5c5f89KRSJ&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu" rel="nofollow">Link</a>). You need to connect the Light correctly +/- at to the mainboard (photo).Easy & suitable👍