Kazi_K93

TBone_427120

This lampshade is designed for the <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/sv/models/13717#profileId-13429" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambu Led Lamp 001</a> kit ←- Follow this link to get the model for the base that holds the electronics and that this globe shade locks into.&nbsp;This is a moon lithophane model for the LED Lamp kit base built using NASA SVS data.&nbsp;Before printing, it is highly recommended to test and calibrate the filaments. Test Prints are provided in a profile to test the trickier parts of the print, in particular the top of the moon. Printing the sliced off moon top will give an idea if the flow rates need to be calibrated or if the layer heights need refining.Both of these are eSun PLA, and both were printed using the same eSun PLA+ profile. <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000031191/design/2023-10-06_e7cbdab0e3545.jpg"> The one on the left (&#34;creamy&#34;) needed different flow rate settings to avoid the gaps in the thin walls. Moral of the story: spend the extra 20 minutes to at least run the Auto Calibration for a new filament (and Manual isn&#39;t so bad to do either particularly if you print on the textured plate).&nbsp;The extra big brim is out of an abundance of caution. There is nothing worse than being ten minutes from the end of a 17 hour print and hearing *CRACK* followed by a spaghetti detected notification. If the test print indicates your filament needs a small center support for the top of the moon, “Normal/Snug” supports will work best. Use Manual supports (Auto will result in a ton of exterior supports for the base of the moon) and paint a small dot in the underside of the top of the Moon. The latest version of the model has been made a little thicker and is more forgiving for printing with most filaments. The part that interfaces with the lamp kit base can easily be made a different filament to match the LED holder material or just for variety. Just set the base filament for the “ModifyBaseSettings” modifier. Doing will require only one filament purge, no prime tower is necessary.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:41.3%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000031191/design/2023-10-06_33ea3c815b5ef8.png"></figure>&nbsp;If using the modifier to make a material change at the base, make sure to pick two filaments that have good adhesion to each other.Because the print requires supports in the base and cleanly removing those supports is important for a snug fit to the lamp kit base, a test print is provided to make sure the filament and support settings will release cleanly. Normal snug supports provided the best results (tree supports required much more effort).&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:17.23%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000031191/design/2023-10-06_f00e2d2199c81.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;If you do use the center support, when removing don&#39;t pull at individual folds from the bottom. Use something to grab on multiple folds as far up as possible (a pair of kitchen tongs works well) and twist.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:17.52%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000031191/design/2023-10-06_c2509972a68348.jpg"></figure>Twisting will put less stress on the top of the sphere and less risk of pulling away the moon surface. If you have wisps of filaments, resist the urge to use a heat gun because the variable thickness of the shell will contract non-uniformly under the heat. This is the result using a heat gun on a lithophane:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000031191/design/2023-10-06_a27a97fbc55ec.jpg">&nbsp;

Moon Globe for LED Lamp 001

Cool things

TripleGWorkshop

⚘ Rose Bookends - 2 Color or Single ⚘

Useful things

laisch

<h3>HUGHES MD - 500 (flyable pullcopter) </h3><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/239508/2023-12-06_sman5x65txu7.gif"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;<h3>Externals</h3>For launching the MD-500, you need to make the “<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/81500" rel="nofollow noopener">Overpowered Heli Launcher</a>” before:<figure class="image"><a href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/81500" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/239508/2023-12-06_cmrmg9lwcdhu.jpg"></a></figure>&nbsp;<h3>Printingsettings</h3>Print as light as possible. I used 2 perimeter, 0.2mm layerheight and 10% infill on the helicopter body.For the Rotor use Arachne in the slicer.&nbsp;<h3>Postprocessing</h3><figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/239508/2023-12-06_n770l86x94u8.jpg"></figure>Clean the hole for the shaft with an 8mm drill bit. Make it as clean as possible to avoid friction.</td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/239508/2023-12-06_41bpt3jnpijj.jpg"></figure>Add the pins to the body and glue the two haves together with some superglue</td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/239508/2023-12-06_bb2k67jpmjiq.jpg"></figure>Add a drop of superglue into the skid holes and glue the skids in place</td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/239508/2023-12-06_huhj8w7d9shl.jpg"></figure>To make the helicopter fly stable, you have to direct the airflow of the propeller to act as a counterforce against the rotors spinning direction. The easiest way is to make a fin with transparent tape.</td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/239508/2023-12-06_i9cggf52mewy.jpg"></figure>You have to adjust the sice and angle of the tape according to your friction on the shaftTestfly -→ adjust → repeat …</td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/239508/2023-12-06_61dldorkdcxe.jpg"></figure>Mount the rotor to the shaft. It should be friction fit, but if its too lose you can add some superglue. (The rotor should spin freely)</td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/239508/2023-12-06_etlatpk1760y.jpg"></figure>To stop the helicopter from rotating during the launch, you have to add the helistops to your launcher. Just remove the old M3x6 screw and replace it with a M3x10.</td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/239508/2023-12-06_7efl5p749tfj.jpg"></figure>Have Fun</td></tr></tbody></table></figure>&nbsp;

MD-500 (flyable Helicopter)

Toys

joshdusseau

Simple sign letting people know you're stoned.

Sorry stoned sign

Funny things

DžonSnou

Printed with PLA,PETG, ABS, ASA, ASA275 at 0.2 or 0.3mm layer height, 15% infill without supports.

Cute dog cookie cutter

Kitchen things

bambaxp

Heart with wedding rings, I placed it in the part I like best in contact with the top, you can activate ironing or place it in the part you like best

New heart love

Love things

Saber3D

Check all my models out at <a target="_blank" href="https://saber-3d.com/" rel="nofollow noopener">www.Saber-3D.com</a> &nbsp;The Flexi Crocodile! This little Croc is a quick and easy print with a lot of color combination possibilities! happy printing!&nbsp;If you like my work, check out my <a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/Saber3D" rel="nofollow noopener">Patreon</a> where I upload almost every week :)&nbsp;

Flexi Crocodile 

Articulated Things

Harry Porpise

A toolbox case for the A1 and A1 Mini that replaces the old cardboard box. The only assembly needed is to snap the plastic tray into the container. I'm super happy with how this turned out, especially how clean the design on the lid is (taken from the old packaging).&nbsp;Update I: I tightened the fit of the lid.Update II: I slightly loosened the fit of the lid so it can be opened more easily.&nbsp;Happy printing!