Kai.pascal.ramminger

gerdjentz

Magnetic dock for Bigtreetech Panda Touch display for P1 series with hidden stock display.<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtube.com/shorts/gaffmoY3PCk?si=q80YXwNoWqsGB6yU"><div class="ck-media__wrapper" data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gaffmoY3PCk"> <div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"> <iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/gaffmoY3PCk" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe> </div> </div></div></figure>The video shows an earlier version, but works the same!&nbsp;Updates: V2.0.1: Added cutout to the MAIN_BODY for new revision of the Pogo PCB with diode&nbsp;You need:<ul><li>Printed parts (MAIN_BODY_V2.0.x for 10mm magnets, MAIN_BODY_8MM_V2.0.x for 8mm magnets)</li><li>I’m working on an easier way for the connection and change the description when done. As for now: USB-A to USB-C cable 90° angle. Get a cable with the most slim USB-C plug you can find. I used this one … <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.de/SUNGUY-Rechtwinklig-Schnelllade-Synchronisierungskabel-Kompatibel-Schwarz/dp/B07H95NY5Y" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.de/SUNGUY-Rechtwinklig-Schnelllade-Synchronisierungskabel-Kompatibel-Schwarz/dp/B07H95NY5Y</a></li><li>2x screw M3x12 socket head cap</li><li>3x strong magnet 10x2mm or 8x3mm (print the right version of MAIN_BODY for the magnets). Thicker magnets up to 4mm will fit too.  </li></ul>Steps to get this thing working:<ul><li>Print all parts: 1x MAIN_BODY_V2.0.x for 10mm magnets, or 1x MAIN_BODY_8MM_V2.0.x for 8mm magnets, 2x DOCK_GUIDE_V2.0, 1x DISPLAY_PLATE_V2.0.  See printing guideline below.</li><li>Mount the DOCK_GUIDE parts to the MAIN_BODY by pushing them trough the holes from backside. Use some glue to lock them in place.</li><li>Push the magnets into the MAIN_BODY. Watch the orientation of magnets! They must attract to the magnets of the Panda Touch display!</li><li>Switch off the printer and remove the power cord!</li><li>Remove the P1 display from the printer. Unscrew the 2 M3 screws from the printer frame behind the display (we don&#39;t need them, so keep the screws in a safe place)</li><li>Unscrew the backplate of the P1 display, remove the backplate and mount the DISPLAY_PLATE to the display with the same screws. Don‘t overthighten the screws!</li><li>Remove the pogo pins PCB from the Panda Touch dock by unscrewing the 4 screws. Keep these screws for next step!</li><li>Mount the pcb with the 4 screws to the mainpart. Don’t overthighten, we screw into plastic!</li><li>We need to modify the angled USB-C plug a bit. Use a sharp knife and cut away the rubber parts from the plug. Most important is the thickness of max. 5mm. Check photos for reference. Otherwise the connector won&#39;t fit through the hole on the front of the printer. If you find a suitable smaller plug let me know.</li><li>We need to unscrew the AP board and move it a bit away from the front frame to get clearance for the USB cable.  Don&#39;t worry, its not that complicated. You don&#39;t have to disconnect anything, just be careful with the cables (antenna, camera, …) Follow the description <a target="_blank" href="https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p1/maintenance/ap-board" rel="nofollow noopener">Bambulabs Wiki</a></li><li>Route the USB cable through the hole from inside the printer to the front and plug it into the USB socket behind the frame.</li><li>Reassemble the AP board</li><li>Connect the USB-C plug to the pcb and route the cable into the channel as shown.</li><li>Use 2 M3x12 screws to mount the new dock to the printer.</li><li>Connect the P1 display.</li><li>Push the P1 display into the new dock, its a snug fit. Don’t clamp any cables.</li><li>Power on the printer. P1 display is working, right?</li><li>Now check if you are getting 5V DC at the pogo pins with a multimeter. +5V = most right pogo pins, GND = most left pogo pins.</li><li>If all is good you can put the Panda Touch onto the new dock.</li><li>Congratulations: you are done :-)  </li></ul>Printing guideline:Place the parts in the slicer as shown. The parts print without support using break away support for the MAIN_BODY. It consists of two bodies, don&#39;t separate them in the slicer. After the print break away the supporting part by pushing/pressing at the marked area. The support part should just snap off.  Use the filament of your choice (I used PC-CF), 0.2mm layerheight, 5 Bottom/Top layers, 3 perimeters, 15-20% infill Gyroid, 100% fan for overhangs.&nbsp;Disclaimer:Use at your own risk. I‘m not responsible for any damages.  &nbsp;

The ultimate Panda Touch Dock V2.0.1 for BBL P1x

Nomad07

Please read all.  There are concerns that are addressed in this description.&nbsp;I wasn&#39;t liking any of the spool adaptors I was finding for the AMS so I designed my own. This one snaps securely to the edge of the spool. It can easily be taken on and off the spool. I have tested it with Polymaker and Overture spools.&nbsp;Update - 02/20/2024 - I&#39;ve changed the walls as narrow as I can (1 wall thickness).  &nbsp;Update - 03/31/2024 - This was printed with Bambu PLA, Polymaker PLA+, and Overture Pro PLA.  Strength and Layer adhesion does not seem to be an issue if using these filaments.  Remember, if you&#39;re having these kinds of issues, its probably not the model, but the filament you are using.  You may have to modify your print settings for your specific filament and single wall construction.  &nbsp;Update - 05/09/2024 - This will not fit every cardboard spool that comes into existence.  You may need to scale up or down depending on your spool size.  Usually by +/- 1% or 2%.  The walls have to be thin in order for the AMS cover to be closed.  If your spool is too big, the ring will over stretch and break when trying to install.  &nbsp;Listen, you can&#39;t complain about it being too thin and breaking AND not being able to close the AMS lid in one comment…  You can have one or the other, not both.

p1s

ams