K123kbzhhd

DesignCraft

Build small or large scale models with these easy-to-print building blocks!&nbsp;Instructions:<ul><li>Print at 0.2mm with 0% infill.</li><li>Let your imagination run wild!</li></ul>Tips:<ul><li>Tolerances will vary between blocks and connectors depending on the filament used. I suggest printing the connectors with a few different filaments and finding ones that work best with different blocks.</li><li>The connectors were designed with grooves so you can use your fingernail to insert and remove from blocks.</li><li>Keep needle nose pliers on hand for tighter tolerances.</li><li>Every block does not need to connect to every other block. Create strips of blocks and then connect to another strip with just a few well-placed connectors.</li><li>You can also stack sections without the need for connectors. The pictured tower has about eight stacked sections which are not otherwise connected.</li></ul>Companion Collections:&nbsp;The following collections provide additional models within specific categories.<ul><li>Textured Slabs: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/22333" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/22333</a></li><li>Windows &amp; Panes: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/22331" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/22331</a></li><li>Doors: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/22332" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/22332</a></li><li>Fences: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/22330" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/22330</a></li></ul>Notes:<ul><li>DesignCraft is a placeholder name for this project. The name may change in the future!</li><li>The blocks used to make the pictured tower were all printed with PLA filaments.</li><li>No glue, adhesives, or anything like that were used to create the pictured tower!</li></ul>Credits:<ul><li>The build pictured was inspired by ItsMarloe&#39;s Amethyst Tower. However, I did take many of my own creative liberties! You can find his video here: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QI8hSyTASEc" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QI8hSyTASEc</a></li><li>The Minecraft Spider model which appears in a couple of the images is by Steven786: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/148963" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/model/148963</a></li><li>The stackable sorting trays I used to keep my blocks organized are by Mar Ber: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/498070" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/model/498070</a></li><li>The organic catchall tray I used to hold my connectors is by lord_edel: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/380742" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/model/380742</a></li></ul>

DesignCraft Building Blocks inspired by Minecraft

Minecraft

PartyLime

GEN 12: please see my profile for the GEN 12 ball. There&#39;s a limit of 500mb on one page so I had to make another for the latest Gen. It bounces really well and feels super durable in TPC I wasn&#39;t satisfied with the current models of the airless basketball on here as they only had a single lattice. This took me days make sure the double lattice worked in CAD - SolidWorks was not built for this! As I don&#39;t have $2,500 to spare, I worked from the images available online.I printed it in TPU. It doesn&#39;t bounce as much as a standard basketball in TPU so I suggest a stiffer material.&nbsp;GEN 9: I have added a gen 9 version. It is a little closer to the original and should weigh about the right amount when printed in TPU/PLA&nbsp;GEN 10: I have adjusted the size of the hex holes and increased the filled on them. I&#39;ve also increased the lattice thickness to 8mm to hopefully increase bounce. The logo on the top and the airless gen 10 tag have also increased in size a little to improve how they look. Lastly, the holes around the seam are now pentagons as in the original ball&nbsp;GEN 11: I have added a new version with cut-outs throughout the seams. This will hopefully make the bounce more consistent.&nbsp;The original version I uploaded was removed due to “abnormal download data”. MakerWorld support took all my points but said I could re-upload so here it is again. Hopefully that won&#39;t happen again. MATERIALS:Extrudr Hard TPU (58D) - good durability about 40% bounceOverture Super PLA+ - 100% bounce but broke easilyOverture easy nylon (PA6) - broke almost instantly (the community have suggested “annealing” the print in water to increase durability)BASF Forward AM Ultrafuse TPU 64D - good durability and 60% bounce (BEST SO FAR)BASF Ultrafuse TPC 45D - good durability and great bounce. I recommend annealing this one at 110°C for 10 hours at least.

Airless basketball

Sports

shawn.mek

My son requested some wolverine claws, and since I had just printed a print in place spring box I was like ‘I bet we could make some claws spring loaded!’&nbsp;Famous last words…&nbsp;Fortunately (or unfortunately?) the spring idea proof of concept worked immediately:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-13_5780d7bc20069.gif">&nbsp;So we were off! And then a billion iterations later, we get to this first release version.&nbsp;It's a bit tricky to assemble, but I'll try to get some how to's in the future if needed. Please leave feedback on what I might do to enhance it - or let me know points of failure that I can strengthen.&nbsp;Thanks!&nbsp;For Assembly, you may want to watch this youtube where Uncle Jessy successfully assembles it (<a target="_blank" href="https://youtu.be/PM3DsiuDIDw?si=Ku4l55NfCI200hou" rel="nofollow noopener">https://youtu.be/PM3DsiuDIDw?si=Ku4l55NfCI200hou</a>). &nbsp;HAND STRAP - This was for my son, and I actually tried using the Polycam photogrammetry app on my phone to 3D scan his hand, and then made the strap using that :). It worked suprisingly well for HIS hand. I scaled up the strap for bigger hands, but you can also cut or delete a piece to make it bend and fit different sizes.&nbsp;&nbsp;ASSEMBLY&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_a7a31b9c9d4a4.jpg">&nbsp;The brake.&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_2e8e8b3f94888.jpg">Stick the ‘trigger’ down through the brake sideways and then turn it (somewhat gently, don't break :))<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_034ac41c92e4e.jpg">&nbsp;Put the springs into the brake<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_23fc35f069994.jpg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_0a283aa1fd7bc.jpg">&nbsp;TRICKY PART -No to putting the brake on this way (it won't have enough space to release):<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_ecf791bfd8bc5.jpg">Put it on the other side (I've never had to glue, but tolerances may necessitate that - the mechanism itself actually holds it together pretty well regardless), and then stretch/pull it over to the front (the springs will now have arm length and springiness for the brake mechanism):<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_d14067333d86c.jpg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_1106349f4ddcc.jpg">Now put the claws through while holding the brake out of the way. Depending on tolerances you may need to move the claws in and out of the guides to break it in:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_1479d7245892c.jpg">Snap the springs into claws and top plate, and then top plate into bottom plate:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_0c259e60d24bd.jpg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_a30a3d439e271.jpg">Pull down brake and pull out claws, slip strap around extended claw spring and onto the assembly:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_d40f2a0eb72e9.jpg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_0233270d2b7b3.jpg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/598278/2024-02-14_aebe1855448f5.jpg">&nbsp;&nbsp;

Wolverine Claws - Retractable, Spring-loaded, Trigger (No extra non printed parts needed)

Gadgets & Accessories

Julia Ebert

This is a big toy human figure that's inspired by a Lego minifigure. I spent a lot of time making this model from scratch to match the original design while making tweaks for tolerances, printability, and strength. While there were a number of minifigure models I found online, most were not designed for printing, which is a particular challenge for the leg, arm, and hand joints. I'm particularly proud of the universal clip I designed for these, which makes for easy assembly and stiff-enough joints to pose your figure.I designed the clips and tolerances for this model to be printed at 100% (10x original Lego scale), but people have previously had success printing my <a href="https://www.printables.com/model/78695-mega-lego-like-skeleton-101-scale" rel="nofollow">10x Lego-like skeleton</a> at smaller scales (eg, 50% or 5x Lego-scale).Now that I have a base model for a Lego-like figure, this opens up a host of options for specific Lego-like figures. If there's something particular you're interested in, leave a comment or send me a message! If you want to make your own modifications, I've included STEP files for all parts (just be sure to give credit for my original design).Fully assembled, this model stands 40 cm (~16 inches) tall. I printed mine with Hatchbox true blue PLA, Hatchbox true red PLA, and Prusament mango yellow PETG.<h4>Printing Instructions</h4>I've included 3MF files for all parts, and parts should import correctly oriented for printing.<ul><li>For PrusaSlicer 2.6+: you just need to load the project file. (This makes use of organic supports, for the legs, which are added with PrusaSlicer 2.6.)</li><li>For other slicers: I've included details about special instructions for all parts, so you should be able to replicate anything necessary for proper printing. Except where otherwise noted, I printed parts in PLA at 0.15mm layer height with 7% cubic infill and without supports.</li></ul>You will need to print:<ul><li><code>32x-connector-pins.3mf</code>: You should need 30 pins for assembly (or 26 if you print the solid head); this has 2 extra just in case. If you have trouble with bed adhesion, add a brim</li></ul><h5>Legs</h5><ul><li><code>legs.3mf</code>: Uses tree supports the top of the lower hole on the leg.</li><li><code>hips.3mf</code></li><li><code>2x-limb-clips.3mf</code>: This file contains two clips. You'll need to print one set of two in the arm/body color, and one set in the leg color. Important: I recommend printing this in PETG or ABS with 25% infill, because it will have to flex and PLA might snap.</li></ul><h5>Body</h5><ul><li><code>arms.3mf</code>: These print with a small surface area on the bed (the wrists), so you might want to add a brim if you have trouble with bed adhesion.</li><li><code>body.3mf</code></li><li><code>2x-limb-clips.3mf</code>: This file contains two clips. You'll need to print one set of two in the arm/body color, and one set in the leg color. Important: I recommend printing this in PETG or ABS with 25% infill, because it will have to flex and PLA might snap.</li></ul><h5>Head & hands</h5><ul><li><code>2x-hands-wrists.3mf</code>: Requires supports on the underside of the wrist clip. Like the limb clips, I recommend printing with PETG (or similar) with 25% infill.</li><li>One of: (all require supports on the underside curve of the head)<ul><li><code>head-face-mmu.3mf</code>: Print the head & face as one part with some sort of multi-material printer (e.g., Prusa MMU or Bambu AMS). Use supports on the underside curve of the head.</li><li><code>split-head.3mf</code> and <code>face.3mf</code>: Print the head (with cutouts) in two pieces. Use pins and glue to connect the halves. Print the face separately and glue it in.</li><li><code>solid-head.3mf</code> and <code>face.3mf</code>: Print the head and face as separate prints. Use supports on the underside curve of the head. Then glue the face parts into the head.</li></ul></li></ul><h4>Assembly Instructions</h4>In addition to the printed parts, you will need cyanoacrylate glue (CA glue/superglue). <h5>Legs</h5><ol><li>Glue the pins into the top of the hip. Add glue to the holes and bottom surface of each of the hip pegs and attach. Important: The slope of each hip peg should be facing out to the sides. If the pins don't want to go together, check that you have this orientation right!</li><li>Use the same gluing approach to attach the limb clips to each side of the hips.</li><li>Gently but firmly press each leg onto the clips. It should snap into place. The hips are symmetric, so you can't put the legs on backwards. This requires a fair bit of force, but you shouldn't need a hammer. If it won't go on, slightly sand or file down the outer head of the limb clip (rather than the inside of the hole on the leg). Warning: The clips are not designed to come out once they're attached, so make sure you're ready.</li></ol><h5>Body</h5><ol><li>Glue the limb clips into each arm, like you did for the legs.</li><li>Glue the wrist onto the hand, with the pins. Because of the relative print orientations here, it's best to use a bit more glue here to make sure it stays on.</li><li>Press each wrist clip into the arm. (They're the same, so you can't put in the wrong hand.)</li><li>Press each arm clip into the body. The body is also symmetric, so you can't put the arms on backwards.</li></ol><h5>Head</h5>If you printed the separate head and face pieces, glue the face pieces into the head. You may need to file or sand some of the face pieces to fit, depending on how well the supports worked.<h4>License Note</h4>This model is marked as non-commercial because I don't want anyone (including myself) having Lego come after them with a lawyer. If you choose to sell prints of this model, you do so at your own risk!

Mega Lego-like Minifigure (10:1 scale)

Lego

agepbiz

<figure class="media"><oembed url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6RgBXBwwXBg"></oembed></figure>&nbsp;edit: 04.03.24 added accessories - canvas top (separate print, no support needed)&nbsp;Print in place kit-card toy. Use a pair of flush cutters to separate the parts then assemble the toy. I have included both a single color version and a multicolor version. I wanted to do a project where I used several tools and machines to tie it all together into one project&nbsp;The Jeep Kit Card: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/223303#profileId-241285" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/223303</a> The Trailer: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/428258#profileId-332362" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/428258</a>The Gun:<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/469311#profileId-378676" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/469311</a>&nbsp;Subscribe or follow me on: Instagram: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.instagram.com/agepbiz/" rel="nofollow noopener">www.instagram.com/agepbiz</a> YouTube: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/user/agepbiz" rel="nofollow noopener">www.youtube.com/user/agepbiz</a> Twitter: <a target="_blank" href="https://twitter.com/agepbiz" rel="nofollow noopener">www.twitter.com/agepbiz</a>&nbsp;WARNING: CHOKING HAZARD - Small parts Not for children under 3 yrs.&nbsp;Printsettings: No support No raft 0,16mm layer height

Minecraft

Sports

Gadgets & Accessories

Lego

To Print