Jendra

nyx_nk

Banana case

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3D Print Masters Hub

Mini Metric Wrench Set-Easy print-Please like and subscribe! More to come!-See bio for more exclusive print project ideas.🔥🔥 Check out my PRO MODELS HERE! <a target="_blank" href="https://cults3d.com/en/users/FabulousFilaments/3d-models" rel="nofollow noopener">https://cults3d.com/en/users/FabulousFilaments/3d-models</a> 🔥🔥

Mini Metric Wrench Set

SpectreGadget

FYI, I have created several other versions.  Print the R4 profile for the new AMS<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/30631#profileId-112717" rel="nofollow noopener">AMS Glass Separation LED Riser for COB LEDs</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/190027#profileId-209722" rel="nofollow noopener">Glass Separation LED Riser (no AMS)</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/190665#profileId-210450" rel="nofollow noopener">Glass Separation LED RIser for COB LEDs (no AMS)</a></li></ul>*** UPDATE 12/18/23 - <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/14025#profileId-104675" rel="nofollow noopener">R4 profile</a> now live with these updates:<ul><li>Supports NEW AMS design and should support all AMS designs</li><li>Wider channel for NEON LED strips since the newer ones are a bit wider. Narrower strips may need 3M tape to secure</li><li>Slightly decreased bottom perimeter improve fit for some filaments/settings that may cause some &#39;elephant foot&#39; at the base</li><li>Added small lip at front to keep glass in place for more energetic printer movement</li><li>Increased gap between parts by 0.05mm to make assembly easier for some materials that are less exacting</li><li>Added numbers on the bottom to help with aligning for assembly</li><li>Added Holder Clips to the R4 profile, four on each of the two plates. Brim is enabled for the clips.</li></ul>I originally started to make a riser with vents for when I print PLA, but decided to go a different route. I wanted to meet these requirements:<ul><li>Move the AMS off the top glass</li><li>Be able to vent the top, but keep the glass with the printer</li><li>Easily remove the glass to get into the printer, without moving the AMS</li><li>Add additional LED lights in the form of “neon” type LED strip</li><li>Keep as minimal / minimalistic as possible, with a low profile and not take a lot of filament, &lt;500g</li><li>Keep it all together, avoiding wall mounting or sitting to the side</li></ul>The light strip I use is the vimeepro 5V USB LED Neon Lights Strip 3.3ft neon Rope Lights Flexible Waterproof Neon LED Strip that I bought from Amazon: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BB724ZS9" rel="nofollow noopener">B0BB724ZS9</a>. I like these lights as they provide good additional light without washing things out. If those are not available, you could use the 6&#39; one and cut it short as needed. <a target="_blank" href="https://amazon.com/gp/product/B0B73VGSCL" rel="nofollow noopener">B0B73VGSCL</a>. Availability of these seems to go in and out of stock. I would think that similar “NEON”-type LED strips should work. Another option provided by <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@moebis" rel="nofollow noopener">@moebis</a> is <a target="_blank" href="https://share.temu.com/u5L2QMYplFA" rel="nofollow noopener">https://share.temu.com/u5L2QMYplFA</a>&nbsp;This riser has a second shelf above to hold the glass top, allowing venting, but keeping the top with the printer.The gap between the parts is 0.1mm for the original profile so it&#39;s meant to be a tight fit that stays together. The R4 profile has slightly larger gaps at 0.15mm.&nbsp;No supports required. If you only print PLA, then printing in PLA will be ok. Best to print in either PETG, ASA, or ABS, especially if your chamber temps get to 50+ as then you are getting close to the glass transition temp of PLA and could cause problems.&nbsp;“Holder Clip.stl” is a clip that can be used to hold the LED power cord along the back before exiting the riser. “Holder Clip.3mf” has 6 of them.&nbsp;

AMS Glass Separation LED RIser

Printer Stuff 

Saber3D

Check all my models out at <a target="_blank" href="https://saber-3d.com/" rel="nofollow noopener">www.Saber-3D.com</a> &nbsp;New dragons, creatures, and more released every month to my patrons, thank you for supporting my work! &nbsp;Follow our socials to see new models! <a target="_blank" href="https://www.instagram.com/saber.3d" rel="nofollow noopener">Instagram</a><a target="_blank" href="https://www.tiktok.com/@saber3d" rel="nofollow noopener">TikTok</a>&nbsp;This flexi dragon was designed to take less time but still give you the awesome look of a large dragon as well as make custom designs as easy as possible! Every part of this dragon can be easily painted in your slicer of choice, just make sure edge detection is turned off 😉&nbsp;Want to sell prints or just enjoy the instant access to all my models? join our All Access tier on <a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/Saber3D" rel="nofollow noopener">Patreon</a>. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

Articulated Crystal Dragon by Saber3D

Toys

Morphas1s

7 slot paint color mixing tray with attached water cup tray that a small medicine dixie cup fit right into or you can just fill the cup on the tray with water.

Paint Mixing / Water Cup Plate

Tools 

Hamstah

Update 25/11/2023: I've added stronger versions of all 3 sizes. Some people were having difficulty printing the original model, so I've increased the height and thickened the links to give the model quite a bit more strength. The trade off is that the model is slightly less flexible, but definitely still a lot of fun to play with. Hope that helps!--&nbsp;Dual sided triangle “chain mail” style fabric. Fun to play with! I recommend printing the tester first, as it is really important that the filament adheres well to the bed for a good print. If one triangle gets knocked off the bed, it can ruin the print (though I have had success if one or two get knocked loose).&nbsp;The easier model to print (and more fun in my opinion) is the 120mm square, but I included a 250mm wide strip for those that want more of it.&nbsp;I also highly recommend using a plastic scraper to remove the print from the bed, and you won't be able to get the fabric to release by bending the bed, and pulling on the fabric will snap the joints.&nbsp;Consider changing filament on the middle layer to get a second colour on the flip side of the fabric!&nbsp;Warning: The 250mm wide version of the fabric takes a very long time to slice!

Fabric Fidget

Fidget Stuff

Every Day Counts

This is my first attempt at creating a Steampunk-inspired piece. It fits into the build space of the A1 mini, taking up every millimetre (197mm x 143mm x 180mm high).&nbsp;Feel free to resize this to suit your needs.&nbsp;The sample print used Bambu Silk PLA (Copper) filament, and the black one used Bambu Matte Black PLA.&nbsp;This trash can is a great size for the desk or on the floor, and is great for painting or printing with AMS colours. Just make sure that you are better at model painting than I am.&nbsp;UPDATE: This model now has a <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/448460#profileId-355260" rel="nofollow noopener">flat lid</a>. See the model at this <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/448460#profileId-355260" rel="nofollow noopener">link</a>.<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/448460#profileId-355260" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000442648/design/2024-04-30_3f53d1e3f7d508.jpg"></a>&nbsp;Be sure to post some photos of what you do with this model. Also, add a rating, comment, and photo to help me. I really, really need that help.&nbsp;&nbsp;

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