Jandrop

Jopek Design

<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/591424/2024-01-09_z5vr7b952er7.png"></figure><h4><strong>Dimensions (LxWxH)</strong></h4><p>186,9 x 66,7 x 33,8 mm (100% scale)</p><h4><strong>Basic information</strong></h4><p>The model is divided into 7 movable articulated segments, which grant the model with lifelike movement, and a high range of flexibility. It prints in place, no assembly is required.</p><h4>Files information</h4><p>I've included one file in the .stl format.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/591424/2024-01-09_i094q5laoxlp.png"></figure><h4><strong>Material</strong></h4><p><strong> </strong>PLA</p><h4><strong>Layer height</strong></h4><p><strong> </strong>≤0,2 mm</p><p>or</p><p>>0,2 mm + variable layer height</p><h4><strong>Infill</strong></h4><p>>15%</p><h4><strong>Support</strong></h4><p>None. The model was designed not to require any support material.</p><h4><strong>Scaling</strong></h4><p>Possible, however, If your machine isn't calibrated properly, has accuracy problems, or if you're dealing with filament issues, downscaling isn't recommended. When downscaling, proceed cautiously, and don't go too small, unless you want to risk mobility related issues. When printing a downscaled version, adjust layer height in proportion to the scale.</p><p>But be careful, if you're printing a downscaled version, the tail fin is fairly narrow, and it's sticking out quite a lot, so it might not have enough time to cool down while printing. To eliminate this issue, print at least two instances of the model, or add a simple tower with the same height as the model. This will force the nozzle to move away from the fin, and allow it to cool down properly.</p><h4>Orientation</h4><p>Default, laid flat on the belly</p><h4>Adhesion aid</h4><p>Not necessary, contact area with the buildplate should be sufficient. If your print surface suffers from poor adhesion, consider using some adhesive spray, or other kind of adhesion booster. Using brim is possible, but not recommended, as it would be difficult, and inconvenient to remove afterwards.</p><h4>Other settings/ideas</h4><p>To make the model look even cooler, add a filament change into your gcode, and print the belly in a different color.</p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/591424/2024-01-09_cfuh5ahi4zg5.png"></figure><p>In this section, you can find a list of all updates and fixes, which were introduced to the model along the way. Each update will be explained thoroughly, so that you know, which issue was every specific update adressing. If you're having any problems with the model, you can check here, if a new, revised version of the model, has already been released in a response to your problem, or not. </p><p>If you run into any issues with the model, please pay a visit to a section of known issues, which can be found just below the Updates and fixes. If you won't find your specific problem in there, don't hesitate to contact me via dm.</p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/591424/2024-01-09_z8v0e93k1c8u.png"></figure><p>There currently aren't any known issues/work in progress. If you run into any, please contact me via dm.</p><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/591424/2024-01-09_k573xpbbcobz.png"></figure><p>My work is free for personal, non commercial use. If you want to sell, or monetize my models in other way, please contact me via dm, and we will discuss details, terms and conditions, and your individual pricing plan.</p>

Articulated Whale Shark

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m4kode

<p>Hello guys,</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>I adapted a “screw to wall” Quest 3 mount to “Ikea Skadis” / pegboard. This is the headset part.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>It uses the T-Clip system. If you dont have T-Clip I added the STL to a well working clip.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Note: The headset part is still printing - will update later with picture hanging on my pegboard.</p>

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Meta Quest