Ocular Dynamic

This mini utility knife is like a 5th gen remix of multiple others stemming from <a target="_blank" href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5327492" rel="nofollow noopener">k-eye's keychain knife</a> [which itself is a remix of multiple other models] with some improvements I've added for smoother sliding and better grip. &nbsp;Put blade on slide, and slide that in to the body by pressing down on the lever to lock it in and out of place. Easy Peazy.&nbsp;*Update - Most recently added the little grips on the sides and updated the profile (just not the pictures)&nbsp;Disclaimer Stuff:Please be careful when handling blades. Razor blades are sharp so there's risk of injury. I'm only providing the design, handling of item is your responsibility.

Mini Utility Knife Tool

Hardware 

Tom Skehan

This is a simple radius Gauge design to help measure radii from 1mm-20mm.  It can be used to visualise the size of a part that you are designing on CAD, or to directly place on objects to work out their radius.  The design prints in two files and is three kit cards put together, the pieces are printed in one and the other file is for the two cases/holders.  Total print time is around 3 hours with no AMS or colour changing required.  Once printed the cases/holders can be easily separated from each other with a small amount of force.  The radius gauge pieces come apart just as easily, but may require a quick once over with scissors or a blade to remove the connection tabs in order to properly fit into the case.  All radius gauge parts are labelled in mm from R1-R20.

Kit Card Radius Gauge & Case

Design

Marcel

Hi everyone,&nbsp;this time I have constructed a fast tire tread gauge.&nbsp;Remember the color change in the top layer, for a nice contrast and to be able to read the measurements better.The printing is super fast.&nbsp;As always, be cool to each other. Cheers.&nbsp;Check out my Car Spoon Holder <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/421347#profileId-324158" rel="nofollow noopener">Model</a><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/858259/2024-04-13_f98f6a15279e5.png"></figure>&nbsp;EDIT: V4 Version has tighter Tolerances, wont loose the inlay- Part and is accurate on the mm- Scale

Tire Check Measure Thread Depth Gauge PrintinPlace

Car Accessories

RileyDesigns

This is NASA fabric, it's a super satisfying sheet of hexagonal chainmail that you can fidget with our display. The model isnt fragile so play till your hearts content. The model is fully scaleable and a full bed print was included so you can create your own shapes by deleating indevidual hexagones. Simply import the STL raw model file into the slicer and separate the sheet into parts and delete the ones you don't want. For best results use a small layer size, I used 0.12 mm and it worked excelent. To change the face pattern, adjust the “Bottom surface pattern” I used the Concentric mode which left me with a beautiful hexagonal infill pattern.&nbsp;UPDATE:New geometry makes upgrades this model in every way-Prints in 4 hours at .2mm-Print on either face-More accurate triangle reduction-Slices faster-Less lag when moving in slicer-Now works at .2mm layer height&nbsp;There is also a dragon scale and scnake scale version available on my profile, it looks amazing and is themed for the year of the dragon! Its a great model to use on costumes with color shifting filament.

NASA Fabric - V2

Chainmail

rowiac

Pteranodon ; from Greek πτερόν and ἀνόδων is a genus of pterosaur that included some of the largest known flying reptiles, with P. longiceps having a wingspan of 6.5 m. They lived during the late Cretaceous geological period of North America in present-day Kansas, Alabama, Nebraska, Wyoming, and South Dakota. [From <a target="_blank" href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pteranodon" rel="nofollow noopener">Wikipedia</a>]&nbsp;This pteranodon skeleton is designed to be printed in parts and assembled with paperclip wire and glue. I used pieces of paperclip wire (~20 mm long) to connect the wing bones for strength, since if it&#39;s printed at 100%, the wingspan of the assembled skeleton is ~42&#34; [108 cm]! Snap together features would be really small and would not be strong enough at that size. The model works out to be about 1/6th scale compared to a full size pteranodon fossil skeleton. Please see the pictures in the Documentation section to see where each part goes.&nbsp;Many thanks to Holden Williams [<a target="_blank" href="https://sketchfab.com/Rag02" rel="nofollow noopener">https://sketchfab.com/Rag02</a>] for making his original 3D model available for this project. I have made numerous modifications that may not be completely accurate, but make printing the parts easier.&nbsp;Note: Based on feedback from NathanChronister on Thingiverse, I&#39;ve included files for a Larger Head Option (see Documentation section). The replacement Cranium and Mandible are scaled up 140% to better match the head scale in <a target="_blank" href="https://www.skeletaldrawing.com/non-dinosaurs/pteranodon" rel="nofollow noopener">Dr. Scott Harman&#39;s skeletal drawings</a>. Use the replacement Neck part as well to attach the larger head to the body.

Pteranodon Skeleton

Dinosaurs

Fresh Brewed Design

Your cat(s) deserve the freshest canned meat product and nobody wants old cat food lurking in the back of their cabinets. This dispenser serves up your cans in first-in, first-out order. The dispenser prints without supports and no hardware or glue is required for assembly.&nbsp;Design<ul><li>Holds 8 3oz cans per dispenser (note: tested with Fancy Feast cans which have about a 66mm diameter and a 37mm height - you may want to check your cans before printing if you prefer a different brand)</li><li>Cans roll smoothly from top to bottom for easy loading</li><li>Fits in a 12in deep cabinet</li><li>Slim profile makes it easy to fit multiple dispensers side-by-side</li><li>Printable on a 180x180mm print bed (e.g., Bambu A1 Mini, Prusa Mini)</li></ul>Dimensions (LxWxH) 280.5x47.6x172.8mm&nbsp;Print settings Nothing special. I test printed with PLA and slicer defaults. STLs are oriented as recommended for printing.&nbsp;Assembly Assemble by sliding the corresponding dovetails together. When assembled correctly, your pieces should all sit flush on both the interior and exterior surfaces. The dovetails should be a fairly tight fit.<ol><li>Print all four components (left front, left back, right front, right back)</li><li>Attach left front to left back and right front to right back by sliding the dovetails together. Ensure all 3 dovetails are engaged on each side. You may find it easiest to partially engage the larger dovetail at the bottom before aligning the middle and top dovetails.</li><li>Attach the left half to the right half by sliding each set of dovetails in from the bottom. You may again find it easiest to start from the bottom. Just make sure top, middle, and bottom dovetails are secure front to back.</li></ol>Notes<ul><li>If you have a larger printer, I&#39;d love your help in testing out additional sizes. I may also do a 12 can version in 6 parts if there&#39;s interest!</li><li>If you plan to remix this, be aware that most cans aren&#39;t simple cylinders. In real life, the cans sit at a slight angle due to the lip around the top. This increases their total width by enough to make a difference. The design accommodates this to avoid an otherwise dispenser-jamming amount of friction between the cans and the side wall.</li></ul>Inspiration/credits<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4428664" rel="nofollow noopener">Aeris - Cat Food Can Dispenser (modular) by Erdrick</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://thenounproject.com/icon/cat-6048434/" rel="nofollow noopener">Cat icon by Kim Sun Young on The Noun Project</a></li></ul>

Cat Food Can Dispenser

Utility

Source robotics

CM6 uses 6 gimbal BLDC motors paired with small gear ratio gearboxes ( from 5:1 to 9:1), by doing that it is passively compliant and safe. Each Joint uses an <a target="_blank" href="https://github.com/PCrnjak/Spectral-Micro-BLDC-controller" rel="nofollow noopener">Spectral driver</a> that is mounted on modular actuator designs for specific gimbal motors. Design can be changed easily by using different-sized aluminum extrusions or changing the gear ratio of modular gearboxes. The robot&#39;s main goal is to be a research platform for the development of compliant and safe robotics.Note that this robot is not as refined as our other robots like PAROL6; some parts are hard to source and might be much more expensive. Building instructions are also not as good and you will need to tinker a lot!  <figure class="media"><oembed url="https://www.youtube.com/shorts/nC_gFHBg7Rg"></oembed></figure>  <figure class="media"><oembed url="https://www.youtube.com/shorts/98K3HYLmuzg"></oembed></figure>

CM6 v2 3D printed robotic arm

Robot Arm

EPIQ3D

Give your plants/herbs the best start.This planterbox ensures that your seedlings stay fresh and hydrated.If you dont yourself grow plants/herbs, i know this will be a great gift for those who do.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:86.29%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/854456/2024-04-12_9859755e4fc52.png"></figure>&nbsp;The Design is made to be as aesthetic as possible, to blend in no matter where you place it.There a two different bases, one for 8 planters and one for a single planter. Then you can choose if you want 4 or 5 in different locations.&nbsp;<h3>HOW IT WORKS</h3>This self watering planter is designed to slowly absorb water from the reservoir (This needs to be filled up occasionally).The lids provides a warm and humid environment for the seedlings, for this to work properly they should be printet in clear material.Individual lids ensures that you can remove lids from some of the seedsplants if needed, and others are not quite there yet.To prevent to much humidity and the risk of mouldy soil, the lids have ventilation holes.&nbsp;&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:86.29%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/854456/2024-04-12_16e56efe4909d.png"></figure>&nbsp;There are 2 water inlets in the planters, where it is recommended to use a wicking material at the bottom.This helps to absorb water into the soil slowly and prevent excess moisture in the soil. To much moisture can reduce oxygen in the soil, damage fine root hairs, and render the root system unable to absorb water.&nbsp;You can place a couple of cotton balls / cotton wool in the bottom of the pot.&nbsp;The planters are splittable to prevent damaging the delicate seed sprouts, when they are big enough to be transplanted.(When they are ready to be transplated, then check out my other self watering planters for herbs and flowers.)&nbsp;To prevent/slow down evaporation of the water in the reservoir (and stabilize the plantes), its recommended to use the provided lids.&nbsp;&nbsp;Optionally you can use the funnel to fill in soil to the planters, use the stamper to LIGHTLY press the soil down.Use the other side of the stamper (the poker) to make a hole for the seed. &nbsp;&nbsp;Basic print settings:<ul><li>Infill : 10%</li><li>Walls: 3</li><li>Top/bottom shell layers: 3</li><li>No support needed</li></ul>Dimensions: 8 planter base - H: 32.3, L: 231.8mm, W: 121.8mmsingle planter base - L/W: 66.8mmPlanter - H: 111mm, L/W: 42.8mm&nbsp;------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------If there is any issues or comments, dont hesitate to reach out.I will try to incorporate any issues to a updated design if needed.

Self watering Seed starter

Gardening

Foxytisy

trktrktrktrktrktrktrktrktrktrk ORIGINAL DESIGN IMPORTED FROM PRINTABLES

Bicycle Noisemaker

Bike Accessories

ggiee

Kitty Clip

For Later

CloseEnoughMachineShop

A GIANT Pinball Flipper Bat as a lightbox with Williams logo&nbsp;Check out my other light box in the same series(picture on the right) <figure class="image image_resized image-style-side" style="width: 28.22%"><a href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/464463" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000462986/design/2024-05-15_65178529cf1e7.jpg"></a></figure>&nbsp;This model is a decent copy of a real pinball flipper bat. It is scaled up to 360% in Bambu Studio so the LED lights can fit in it. Perfect to hang on the wall in your pinball room/man cave.Its printed in PLA Tough but normal PLA should work as well. The white front of the flipper bat is quite thick so the light can diffuse. Use bright LEDs.The backside lid of the flipper bat can be printed in PLA as well but I printed mine in PETG so it doesn&#39;t crack when I screw it to the wall.&nbsp;I highly recommend using the print profile I created. Otherwise, there is a big risk that some details will not be visible.&nbsp;You can use Bambu Labs LEDs or buy ones of your choice.&nbsp;

GIANT Pinball Flipper Bat Williams logo

Ideas 💡 

Miadesign

<h2>Remote Control Holder with 4 Compartments</h2>

Remote Control Holder with 4 Compartments

Accessories

claudiogirolami

Just a remodeled spool for every bambulab printer, compatible AMS and with the bambu logo on each side.If you don&#39;t like the patterns used on the spool, or you don&#39;t agree with the percentage, it will be sufficient to change the infill settings in bambulab studio before printing it.&nbsp;What about paying me a coffee ? I&#39;d really need it… (zzz).  :D  <a target="_blank" href="https://buymeacoffee.com/menkheperra" rel="nofollow noopener">https://buymeacoffee.com/menkheperra</a>

AMS compatible reusable spool with Bambulab logo

P1P Accessories

Makefy

It's planting season!<blockquote> TIP: Use a cotton pad in the bottom of each pot to keep the dirt from spilling into the bottom tray! &nbsp;</blockquote>&nbsp;This is a new version of a design I made and tested last season. Turned out to work great.The assembly consists of the following parts: Bottom Tray: <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/678120/2024-03-09_52bc4f5b6a06.png"> This is the main part which holds water. It has guides for the pots and slots for the connecting beams. It should have enough solid bottom layers to avoid any infill. Just to make sure it's completly watertight.&nbsp;Connecting Beam: <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/678120/2024-03-09_ab0b1e814f06f.png"> This is the part that supports the top plate. You will need 4 of these &nbsp;Pot: <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/678120/2024-03-09_fb839ee86539c.png"> This is the pot itself. It consists of two parts that snap together. PLA seems to hold up pretty good for this part, but PETG or ABS might be a better choice. Top Plate: <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/678120/2024-03-09_df2f64c41e23d.png"> This parts connects to the bottom tray with the four beams and holds the pots Greenhouse Dome: <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/678120/2024-03-09_66dfe67204146.png"> This is a clear cover which provides a warm and humid environment for the seedlings. This part is provided in a separate print profile and should be printed in clear PETG or PC: — OPTIONAL --- Dirt Funnel: <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/678120/2024-03-09_5f6384536a117.png"> The funnel makes it easier to fill the pots with dirt The Pestle: <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/678120/2024-03-09_2ac2891fe5821.png"> Use this to gently pack the dirt.

Self Watering Seed Starter/Planter with Splittable Pots and Greenhouse Dome

Hydroponics

Raybesh

<h2>Intro</h2>The Sierpiński Pyramid is a 3 dimensional manifestation of the Sierpiński triangle. It&#39;s a fractal, that is subdivided recursively into smaller and smaller pyramids. In (mathematical) theory it goes on and on into infinity, which means you would be able to zoom in infinitely and still see more little pyramids. Unfortunately we live in the real world where there are no mathematically precise fractals. The next best thing we can do is to show a subset of the fractal.<h2>Print Settings</h2>The Pyramid is printed in Vase Mode. With that said, it&#39;s incredibly sturdy. I wouldn&#39;t be afraid to literally throw a level 6 pyramid around.<h2>Versions</h2>I&#39;ve uploaded different recursion depths (or levels if you want to be one of the cool kids) which show off the beauty of the Sierpiński Pyramid.For every level you go deeper, the longer it&#39;s going to take (like in inception) and the more filament it&#39;s going to use (not like in inception). In the print profile you can find the levels 3 to 6, which go from 6.5 minutes to a whopping 14 hours. I recommend printing a lower level first to check if everything is alright with the printer (and you).&nbsp;I&#39;ve also uploaded the different levels with a base layer and without base layer. The one with base layer is more stable since it it can&#39;t bend at the bottom, it also helps with the first layer sticking. The one without base layer prints faster and uses less filament, although the difference is basically negligible. See Print Info below to compare. The version with base layer also gives you the added bonus of creating a Sierpiński triangle when held up against the light.<h2>Parametric adjustments</h2>Maker World introduced the option to adjust parameters with OpenScad files. Unfortunately rendering a Sierpiński pyramid takes ages, and the model generator already gives up at level 5.<h3> Parameters</h3>level: the level of the pyramid side_length: the side length of the unit pyramid, that is the smallest unit of pyramid in the fractal. By default it&#39;s 1.875 which causes a level 3 pyramid to have the side length of 15mm. The formula for calculating the side length is `{side_length} * 2^{level}` so if you were to choose a side length of 2.5mm, then level 4 would be `2.5 * 2^4 = 40mm`. overlap: the overlap between unit pyramids. Setting this to 0 would create a perfect mathematical Sierpiński pyramid, however it would be impossible to print since nothing is connected and therefore everything would be floating. Setting this too high ends up making the fractal look less detailed. base_height_ratio: this is the ratio of the base to the height (parallel to Z axis). By default it&#39;s the square root of 2 which causes the pyramid to be equilateral. Setting this to `pi/2` gives you the ratio of the pyramids of Giza (presumably) base_offset: By default this is 0, which gives you a model with a base layer, the higher this is, the more of the bottom is cut away. The range of this variable is [-1:infinity (probably)]<h2> Print Info</h2>(On the A1 &amp; according to Bambu Studio) No Base<figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td>Level</td><td>Time</td><td>Filament</td></tr><tr><td>3</td><td>6m32s</td><td>0.25g</td></tr><tr><td>4</td><td>27m37s</td><td>1.32g</td></tr><tr><td>5</td><td>2h25m</td><td>7.69g</td></tr><tr><td>6</td><td>14h00m</td><td>45.88g</td></tr></tbody></table></figure>With Base<figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td>Level</td><td>Time</td><td>Filament</td></tr><tr><td>3</td><td>6m47s</td><td>0.27g</td></tr><tr><td>4</td><td>28m27s</td><td>1.39g</td></tr><tr><td>5</td><td>2h28m</td><td>7.99g</td></tr><tr><td>6</td><td>14h18m</td><td>47.42g</td></tr><tr><td>7 pls dont print this</td><td>3d9h52m</td><td>296.20g</td></tr></tbody></table></figure><h2> Potential Problems</h2><h3>First layer not sticking</h3>The biggest culprit for me is forgetting to wash the build plate from time to time. If you experience the first layer not sticking you could try to:<ol><li>Wash your build plate</li><li>Use a textured PEI plate</li><li>Use glue</li><li>Use the pyramid version with base layer</li><li>Slow down the first (few) layer(s)</li><li>dry your filament?</li><li>use different filament?</li><li>i&#39;m just guessing at this point</li></ol><h3>Nozzle too close to build plate / Extruder gear slipping</h3>For some reason this always happens to me when I use the 0.2mm nozzle, not sure if something is wrong with the nozzle, the printer, the slicer or with me.You&#39;ll know it&#39;s too close, if the extruder can&#39;t push any filament out and the extruder gear will therefore slip. The slipping will make clicking sounds, so please watch out for that when printing the first layer. Nevertheless, to combat this I change the Z-Offset in the slicer. Unfortunately there is no setting to change the offset, you&#39;ll have to change it in your printers start gcode. (Orca slicer has a setting btw) Somewhere at the bottom of the start gcode you should find<blockquote>;===== for Textured PEI Plate , lower the nozzle as the nozzle was touching topmost of the texture when homing == ;curr_bed_type={curr_bed_type} {if curr_bed_type==&#34;Textured PEI Plate&#34;} G29.1 Z{-0.02} ; for Textured PEI Plate {endif}</blockquote> Remove the minus from `G29.1 Z{-0.02} ; for Textured PEI Plate` and choose `Textured PEI Plate` as your plate type Little tangent: In case you were wondering, choosing `Textured PEI Plate` over `Smooth PEI Plate / High Temp Plate` just changes the Z offset as far as I know. The comment in the first line of the gcode snippet explains it pretty well. Changing the offset from -0.02 to 0.02 essentially raises the nozzle by 0.04mm from where it usually would be. If the issue persists, just raise the offset by more.If more people are having this issue, let me know in the comments and I&#39;ll upload a version with adjusted Z offset.&nbsp;<h3>Filament stopped coming out of the nozzle</h3>Most likely heat creep. Happened to me when trying to print a level 7 pyramid with matte PLA. To combat this you might want to try printing cooler than normal. To fix this you could pause the print (if the stopping just happened) and unclog the nozzle with an acupuncture needle. If the heat creep happened a while ago you could cancel the print, set the print bed to the printing temperature and unclog your nozzle. Once that&#39;s done you can do some Gcode trickery to resume from the failed location. That is all theory though, I have no idea how to do this unfortunately&nbsp;<h3>It looks too cool</h3>Not sure how to help you with this.  <h3>Where is Level 7?</h3>While Level 7 fits on the 256mm build plate, sorry A1 mini :(, it takes 30minutes to render in OpenScad, way too long to slice in Bambu Studio and around 20gb of ram. I&#39;ll upload the 3mf for a level 7 in case you like suffering.   <h3>Where is Level 8?</h3>Ok don&#39;t get ridiculousbut just to do the math. Going from one level to the next basically multiplies the material by 6, so level 7 is ~300g which means level 8 is ~1.8kg. Time should also be factor 6, however in reality it seems a little less, so 3d10h print time at level 7 becomes ~20.5d at level 8. Since it&#39;s a little less than 6x, lets say ~20d give or take. You also need a print volume of 480mmx480mmx340mm, if you want to print it in one go, which would be one big chungus of a build plate if you ask me.&nbsp;<h2>Closing Thoughts</h2>If you print this, congratulations. You are now in possession of something special. I never get tired of staring at the fractal. But then again, I&#39;m pretty weird. There is something unique about holding a fractal in your hands. Also it&#39;s pretty weird to hold in your hands in general, since it weighs like nothing.Also I&#39;d love to see your prints with your amazing filament choices!

Sierpiński Pyramid (Customizable)

Fractals

DjangoCashflow

Check out my Kit Cards: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/398440#profileId-299967" rel="nofollow noopener">Millennium Falcon</a> <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/252373#profileId-268741" rel="nofollow noopener">Imperial Lambda Shuttle</a> <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/232273#profileId-249216" rel="nofollow noopener">X-Wing</a> Check out my other High Detail Models: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/444165#profileId-350404" rel="nofollow noopener">Lambda Shuttle</a> Celebrate the spirit of May the 4th with this intricately detailed model of the iconic Millennium Class Starship. Crafted with precision and designed to maximize the use of your 3D printer&#39;s build space, this model requires no assembly, allowing you to bring a piece of the galaxy right to your desktop with ease.  Feature:High Detail Representation: Captures the essence of the legendary starship with detailed panels, sensor arrays, and antenna.Full Utilization of Print Bed: Engineered to occupy the entirety of the printing platform, providing you with the largest possible model size for an impressively grand display.Collector&#39;s Piece: A must-have for enthusiasts and collectors, ideal for display in a home, office, or as part of a larger collection.Optimized for Detail Resolution: The design has been refined to enhance the visibility of fine features, surpassing previous models in terms of precision.Preparation for Star Wars Day: Released in anticipation of May the 4th, this model is perfect for showing off your fandom during the most celebrated day in the galaxy.  Whether you&#39;re a seasoned collector or simply looking to indulge in the festivities of Star Wars Day, this Millennium Class Starship model stands as a testament to the ingenuity of design and the magic of 3D printing. Let the force be with your printer as you embark on the creation of this interstellar masterpiece.

High Detail Big Millennium Falcon

Star Wars

Gedhawk

I would like to share with you my rotating base for moon lamp.<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000461432/design/2024-05-12_cfee4242aa02a.gif">This model is using following components:<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://pl.aliexpress.com/i/1005004122528611.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2pol" rel="nofollow noopener">DC Engine</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://pl.aliexpress.com/item/1005006046887509.html?srcSns=sns_Copy&amp;spreadType=socialShare&amp;bizType=ProductDetail&amp;social_params=21492662275&amp;aff_fcid=6ca996960b91461c870d787b465123f5-1715517516164-04832-_mK7HNwA&amp;tt=MG&amp;fbclid=IwAR1tD9kG0_33rgHdZ4gBtEGel-3tWO-MvjJHXUpRlwUdyZAUzVCYieGPCa8&amp;aff_fsk=_mK7HNwA&amp;aff_platform=default&amp;sk=_mK7HNwA&amp;aff_trace_key=6ca996960b91461c870d787b465123f5-1715517516164-04832-_mK7HNwA&amp;shareId=21492662275&amp;businessType=ProductDetail&amp;platform=AE&amp;terminal_id=bdfb609efaa749f59fb98be6a62373b7&amp;afSmartRedirect=y&amp;gatewayAdapt=glo2pol4itemAdapt" rel="nofollow noopener">Potentiometer</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DDykXKV" rel="nofollow noopener">Lamp</a></li><li>Small and Big Timing Pulley (printed)</li><li>Timing Belt (printed)</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://pl.aliexpress.com/item/4000909642153.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.9.784b7964tXWyZj&amp;algo_pvid=e1cd12f4-c7cd-4179-ac8a-5eece19d1bb8&amp;algo_exp_id=e1cd12f4-c7cd-4179-ac8a-5eece19d1bb8-4&amp;pdp_npi=4%40dis%21PLN%2115.91%214.04%21%21%213.90%210.99%21%402103892f17155176384441084e1a9d%2112000028414413113%21sea%21PL%210%21AB&amp;curPageLogUid=SmQUeyi2ie8p&amp;utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A" rel="nofollow noopener">Bearing 629 2RS 9x26x8mm</a></li></ul>Lamp is pretty silent, especially when you will use some lubricant inside engine gears.Model is fully compatible with <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/44705#profileId-48497" rel="nofollow noopener">SVS NASA Moon Globe</a>.<figure class="image"></figure>

Moon Lamp - Rotating Base

Decor

Kocyns

<h3>INTRODUCTION</h3>This car model was created based on the <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/218462#profileId-241229" rel="nofollow noopener">Golf 1</a> model and inquiries for additional models. I adopted the best know-how and found further improvements for easier assembly, strength, and better appearance.&nbsp;The model will now be regularly updated because the template has a lot of details that cannot be done in a short time.&nbsp;If you have any ideas for improvements or modifications, please let me know!&nbsp;<h3>BASIC INFO:</h3><ul><li>scale 1:40</li><li>Glue is not needed</li></ul><h3>ASSEMBLY: <a target="_blank" href="https://youtu.be/sd6-QBgvXbM" rel="nofollow noopener">video</a></h3><figure class="media"></figure><h3>UPDATE:</h3><ul><li>Added version R1.4</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 73.82%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000376939/design/2024-04-25_f1be529cdd6d6.png"></figure><h3>Planned improvement:</h3><ul><li>new rims ✅</li><li>details/additional parts of the model ✅</li><li>AMS</li></ul><h4>Commercial uses:</h4>If you want permission for commercial use: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/kocy/" rel="nofollow noopener">patreon.com/Kocy</a>&nbsp;