This is a 50mm x 50mm w desiccant bottle, container, box, thingy(?) with a center column of Lead shot.  Most spool weights use AA batteries for weight (23g). If you get 7- AA batteries into a container that’s 161grams.  With this model, using 2.4mm lead shot, you gain a weight of 205g (44g more).  And when you add desiccant to it as well, the weight jumps to 235grams (74g more than 7- AA batteries).  The added weight definitely helps to stop jumping spools and the desiccant is a drying bonus.

Sturdy Cylinder Desiccant Bottle 50mm - This was actually one of the first models I ever designed.  But since I was new to everything, Fusion, Studio, MakerWorld, etc., I never uploaded it.  My other desiccant bottle gets downloads so I reworked this one to be better functional and decided to upload it. Thicker wall, stronger desiccant container. Measures 50mm Diameter by 49mm Long. Threaded lid. Will fit inside most spools.  I put them inside my spools in my AMS.  Hope it helps you.

Hershey Kiss Christmas Tree We needed some small neighbor gifts for the kids, and my wife found a bunch of these folded paper Hershey Kiss Xmas Trees online.  And since I love 3D printing…here’s a simple plastic version! Holds nine (9) of the normal size kisses. The Star, Stump and Ornaments are all glued on.  I use accelerant with CA glue to make it less of a pain to put together and stop any whitening of the material from CA off-gassing. Use paint in Studio to change colors.

Adjustable Feet for lightweight furniture I had to make a bookshelf to hold AMS units beside my H2D.  The shelf sits between two tables that aren’t exactly level and caused the shelf to wobble. These adjustable feet solved that issue and made the shelf rock-solid.  To keep the shelf from sliding or scratching the surface the shelf is on, there are 95A TPU Cushion feet that screw into each foot. The feet measure 40mm dia and 20mm min height. The max adjustable height, w/ TPU cushion feet is 40mm.

Teddy Bear Park Bench My wife wanted a chair for our dog’s chew toys that she puts under the xmas tree. So I made this teddy bear park bench. No glue was necessary as the tolerances on my P1S is pretty tight. You’ll need a total of nine (9) slats (male and female).The bench measures 258mm Wide x 162mm Tall and 120mm Deep. The seat bottom itself is 85mm deep, the seat back height is 100mm. I used El goo PLA+ black and Sunlu 2.0 Oak

H2D Vent Caution – No Step H2C Vent Caution - No Step I kept putting my flush cutters on the H2D’s automatic front vent, so I needed reminder.  I like the “No Step” ones from aircraft. It’s applied using double-sided tape. I used PLA+ Black, and Bambu PLA Matte Orange and Red for the colors.  The colors are painted in Bambu Studio, then printed face down. It's a 50min print using a total of 18g on my H2D.

Plastic Wrap Box for Costco Kirkland food wrap The cardboard box that holds the Costco Kirkland Signature plastic food wrap (pellicule) is fine. But I have a 3D printer, so… The box is made to fit the Costco brand plastic food wrap as that’s what I use.  It may be suitable for other brands. The nice part is the slot for the film is thin / narrow, so the wrap doesn’t slide back down into the box like it does with the cardboard.  And of course, the plastic is much more durable than the cardboard.

Layer Height Chart I’m still relatively new to 3D print designing, and it took me a while to realize if I design something 2 mm thick vertically, and print at .16-layer height, that isn't even math for the slicer and it will round up or down, leaving a gap of .08. Not that significant, but might create issues w/tolerance or even supports adhesion. Since printing layer height should be considered in design creation, here's a chart to help. Yes, it’s multiples of .04, but math is hard.

It’s time to show these PC players what’s what.  Us old school gamers need some aid like they have with PC, sitting inches from their screen, aiming with their whole hand…aim with your thumb like a real gamer! I got the idea after I saw a quick video of a PC gamer with a pencil centered in front of their screen, while doing aim-training. So, to help out console gamers with aiming on our TV’s we’ve now got a console front sight!  Or controller sight…or aim assist, aim trainer thingamajig!

¾" PVC Pipe Corner Fitting This is not a pass-through connector, it is just used to make structured corners out of ¾" PVC piping. NOT FOR PLUMBING USE! I wanted a light box to take better pictures of my models for MakerWorld and thought I'd make one out of some leftover PVC pipe and a sheet, but I needed a corner. So I made one! It works like a charm. I'll probably make different sizes but three-quarter inch was the only pipe I currently have. Hope it works for your project!

This past year I’ve gotten much more into watching Formula One.  My wife surprised me with a couple of these neat little 🧱🧱🧱🧱 (toy brick company) F1 cars…so I had to get all twelve.  Then I had to figure out a place to put them!  Here’s my simple Display Stand Track, it won’t hold all twelve (12) but you the display stand acts as sort of a centerpiece that you can just set the remaining cars around.

Inflatable Yard Décor Tent Stake.  The skinny stakes that come with the decorative yard inflatables work but never seem to last. I made these much sturdier ones to replace them.  I haven’t used them in camping, but they hold my giant inflatable Frankenstein head in 20mph gusty winds! The stake is 210mm (8-3/16”) tall and 30mm (1-3/16”) wide.  A print at .20 “Strength” with 6 walls 25 Gyroid uses 47g of filament and takes right at 2 hrs. I’d recommend PETG since they’re used outdoors.

1.25" to 2" Eyepiece Adapter I remember having a hard time finding one of these adapters way back, and now that I have a 3D printer, well I should make one. It's modeled after a metal one I have that either came with one of my scopes, or I ordered it from somewhere…I don't recall and there's no label on it. I've tested my model, it works like a charm. Tolerances are tight, so a single 6mm screw holds eyepieces snug without distorting center alignment.

Calibration - Dimension Block I created this simple block as a visual guide to metric dimensions. This model gives me a visual representation of the dimensions I'm considering for modeling. BUT, I printed the first ones and immeadiately noticed differences in dimensional accuracy across all three (3) planes, as well as differences in print quality. Overall, a really useful tool. The block measures 30mm W x 100mm L x 20mm T. It has walls, steps, holes and pegs measuring from 1mm to 10mm.

PolyMaker PolyDryer Box Modifications: I use the fantastic PolyMaker PolyDryer Box for my external spools on my P1S, particularly TPU filament, because you can't really run TPU through the AMS. But for my setup and use, I ran into some inconvenience issues. To remedy these slight issues, I designed a simple coupler to use a PC4-M10 Pass-Through connector, a desiccant box, and a separate holder for the OEM humidity sensor. Please look at the profile for more detailed information.

I remember first seeing Steve Martin's “Wild and Crazy Guy” with an arrow through his head back in the late '70s and thought it was crazy funny. I was about 10. Now almost 50yrs later I still think it's pretty darn funny and so I made one myself! To give the feathers their color I used Sharpie markers (Black, Gold, Bronze) to fill in the grooves. The red banding on the shaft I used “Color Painting” in Bambu Studio/Slicer, utilizing “Height Range” tool, set the range to 4 or 5mm.

I learned the hard way not to run TPU through the AMS. And because of the way my printers sit close to the wall and each other, I needed a way to utilize a Y-Splitter to get filament from an external spool into the P1S. I run an external spool for TPU in a PolyMaker box, it sits on a AMS Shelf I designed (see pics). Hope it works for you. Please read the full profile description, this adapter works for two very well designed (not by me) models. The "Smoothy" and the "Flipper".

I learned you can't run TPU through the AMS the hard way. And because of where I have my P1S setup, and because I use the AMS Flipper, I have no room for an ext spool 0n the back or on the side of either of my units. My solution is this simple shelf that matches the radius of the original AMS. It works like a charm for my purposes. The shelf sits stable, flat and level and measures 9-3/8" (234mm) L x 4-½" (115mm) W x 4-5/8" (119mm) T. See pictures

I have a hard time estimating filament remaining on the spool. This scale solves that problem quickly and effectively for me. It only takes a moment to remove the spool, weigh it, subtract the known empty spool weight, and thereby knowing exactly what I have remaining to print with. And it is very accurate to the gram. Yes, you can certainly buy an inexpensive kitchen scale to do this, but where’s the fun in that? Please thoroughly read the attached .pdf documentation for info and instructions.