BeeTee 3D

This is an LED lamp of Bluey from the phenomenal kids (and adults!) show, Bluey.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;This model has more than four colors, so you will need more than one AMS for the full effect.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Print the whole family!Bluey: https://makerworld.com/en/models/98734 Bingo: https://makerworld.com/en/models/98737 Bandit: https://makerworld.com/en/models/98738 Chilli: https://makerworld.com/en/models/98736  &nbsp;&nbsp;How do I make this thing?!Easy!  Just follow these general steps, and you&#39;ll be lighting up your life in no time.  Pay attention, as there will be a quiz later.&nbsp;<ol><li>Download the model to your computer or open it in the Handy app.  I suggest downloading it and opening it so you can remove the purge line (Google is your friend here).  I also strongly suggest using the included profile, as it contains many little tweaks to prevent problems that are common with these types of lamps (gaps, wisps, separation, etc.)</li><li>Confirm whether you have enough AMS&#39;s to handle all of the colors.  I do my best to keep my lamps to 4 colors or less, but sometimes that&#39;s just not possible, and a second AMS will be needed.  Alternatively, you can build in pauses and conduct manual filament swaps, but you&#39;ll need to research how to do that on your own, because I&#39;m not good at that.</li><li>Ensure your filament colors are in the correct AMS slots that corresponds to the model.  Hint: I generally arrange my colors in alphabetical order, because I&#39;m weird like that.  Just be cautious of wildcards like &#34;light blue&#34;.</li><li>All of my models come with two different back plates.  One will have a hole for those of you that want to hang the lamp on a wall.  The other will not have a hole, and that&#39;s intended for those of you who will be placing the lamp on a desk or a table or a cat.  You do NOT need to print both back plates (or do, I don&#39;t care, I&#39;m not your mother).  Pick whichever one you want.  Some lamps will also come with a base.  This is to keep your lamp from tipping over like a drunk toddler if you&#39;re placing it on a flat surface.  If you&#39;re hanging it on a wall, you don&#39;t need the base.</li><li>I strongly recommend using a textured PEI plate, as that will do an excellent job in hiding the print lines, and that&#39;s what these prints are tweaked for.  But you can use whatever fancy plate you want -- again, I&#39;m not your mom.  </li><li>Once you&#39;ve got your AMS set up and are ready to go, hit that big ol&#39; PRINT button for the lamp face and then your back plate. I suggest disabling Flow Calibration.</li><li>Go make a sandwich.</li><li>You should now have the lamp face and your back plate of choice, and it&#39;s assembly time!</li><li>This first step is optional, but I would suggest picking up aluminum (or aluminium for some reason if you&#39;re British) foil tape.  Yes, it comes in tape form!  Line the inner side of the back plate with the sticky stuff, as it will help tremendously in making your light brighter and with a more even and consistent light.  I personally tear off small strips, apply, and then flatten/smooth it out with the edge of a credit card, and repeat until the entire side is shiny silver.</li><li>Next you&#39;re going to want to buy yourself some LEDs.  The options here are many and varied, and I can&#39;t decide for you (see mom comment above).  Decide what types of light you want.  Do you want basic white light?  Great!  Do you want cool white or warm white?  Do you want it to flash or dance to the music?  Do you want a switch?  Do you want a remote?  Do you want it to be USB or higher voltage?  Have you changed your mind and want it to be multi-colored or able to change color to the seasons or your mood?<ol><li>What I can do is make some suggestions.  First, there are several kinds of LEDs that are typically used in these types of lamps.  The first is a basic LED strip, which is a roll of circuit board tape with a sticky back-end.  These are the simplest and easiest to use.  Next is what&#39;s called a COB strip, which is basically the same, but instead of an LED every inch, it has a solid band of light.  Then there&#39;s neon COBs, which are self-explanatory.  There&#39;s also LED dome bulbs, which you would apply directly to the backplate, but would require soldering.</li><li>Whatever you choose, you want to look for the following:  - A way to power the thing.  USB, DC, solar panels, steam engine -- doesn&#39;t matter, just as long as you can turn it on and off.  - A way to trim the length.  Most LED strips have areas on them that are safe to cut with scissors as long as you cut precisely along the indicated area.  Once you make that cut, the part of the LED strip that&#39;s still connected to the power will function, but the remainder will no longer function (there are ways to repower them, but generally require soldering and/or special clips and new controllers.  Google is still your buddy here).  <ol><li>A way to secure the strip to the inside of the lamp.  Most LED strips come with an adhesive side, but not all -- make sure you know what you&#39;re buying.  In a pinch, hot glue will do the trick. </li><li>An LED strip length of 1m is usually sufficient, but some lamps do exceed that length.</li><li>Test EVERY strip before you apply it.</li></ol></li></ol></li><li>All of my lamps come with a hole in the side of the case that&#39;s just big enough for threading through the LED strip (if you don&#39;t want the hole, you can cover it with a small piece of electrical tape).  Thread the USB cable (or whatever power source you chose) from the inside through to the outside so the connecter is dangling just outside the lamp.  Then peel off the sticky backing of the LED strip, and start applying it to the inner wall perimeter of the lamp, maintaining steady pressure to ensure good adhesion.  Try to keep it as straight as possible.  Use a credit card or other narrow instrument to help get it into any nooks and crannies the lamp has.  Continue along the entire inner perimeter until you come back around to the outlet hole, and then make your cut.  Plug in the power to ensure the light still works.<ol><li>This is optional, but I suggest putting a dab of hot glue every inch or so to secure the strip extra tightly to the inside of the case.</li></ol></li><li>Now you&#39;re ready to close the lamp up.  Take the back plate you printed earlier and line it up with the front plate.  All of my back plates have a lip to help secure it, and it is a tight friction fit.  This helps keep the two halves together without needing to glue them, which allows you to open it back up in case you need to fix the LEDs.  Once it&#39;s lined up, squeeze the two halves together, ONLY PUTTING PRESSURE ON THE OUTER EDGES.  If you squeeze the lamp directly on the thin face or back plate, you&#39;ll put your whole hand through it like a gorilla.  <ol><li>Here&#39;s the method I use:  I place the edge of the box between the balls of my thumbs, lock the rest of my fingers together above it, and then squeeze.  As long as you&#39;re only squeezing on the EDGE, it can take a surprising amount of force.  I repeat this around the entire edge of the lamp until I have a tight fit.  Occasionally, for any tricky areas, a little sanding/trimming/clipping of the lip can be helpful.</li></ol></li><li>Lucky number 13, and you&#39;re done! </li></ol>&nbsp;Quiz time (did you think that was a joke?)  1. What&#39;s the suggested way of opening the lamp file?  2. What do you need to ensure is in the right order before printing?  3. I&#39;m not your _______?  4. Which back plate should you use for which scenario?  5. What is the recommended plate you should use for lamps?  6. What kind of sandwich did you make?  7. What type of LEDs did you decide on, and what should you do before applying it? 8. What should you NEVER apply pressure to or squeeze when joining the lamp halves together? 9. Did you have fun? &nbsp;Feel free to join me on Patreon @ BeeTee 3D for more, including exclusive lamps!  &nbsp;

Bluey LED Lamp

Lightboxes

dreed10

My rendition of a Wago wire connector block. It supports 2 Wago 221-413's and a 221-412 or 3 Wago 412's. It could be adapted to support other combinations.

Wago 221 Connector Box

Electrical

Makers Manual

This Poop Chute has been designed to capture the waste from the Bambu Labs P1 and X1 series printers. It is a remix from <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@KevinV_460266" rel="nofollow noopener">Fantasy3DPrintsShop</a>. This remix has a number of updates from the original version, these are all fully detailed below. But in summary, it prints faster and with less material. But should be stronger and work better due to subtle changes in the overall shape. It now accommodates optional <a target="_blank" href="https://geni.us/Magnets10x3" rel="nofollow noopener">magnets</a>, to securely attach to the printer. Use a drop of <a target="_blank" href="https://geni.us/Superglue" rel="nofollow noopener">CA Glue</a> to hold magnets.<ul><li>Nozzle: 0.4mm</li><li>Layer Height: 0.2mm</li><li>Infill: 10%</li><li>Supports: None</li><li>Brim: None</li></ul>This was printed on my Bambu Labs P1S printer with Bambu PLA using the default setting of 0.20mm Standard. It used 313g of material and took 6h31m.<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zTCmhx0Fc28"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/zTCmhx0Fc28" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure><figure class="table"><table style="border:5px solid #fa6831;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align:center;">I hope you find this model useful. If so we would love it, if you can give us a LIKE. You can also follow us on our <a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/@MakersManual/" rel="nofollow noopener">YouTube Channel</a> here.</td></tr></tbody></table></figure>

Poop Chute Bucket for Bambu P1 & X1 Series

Printer mods

LiL_PPJ

CUTE DRAGON KEYCHAIN

Models & Toys

SNASA

This is a small and stealthy minimalist heat insert press designed for CNC Kitchen TS100 heat insert set. I didn&#39;t want to use a counterweight so I made an invisible spring and belt system hidden in the vertical part. Its size makes it perfect for small job on the workbench :<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 42.73%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000430484/design/2024-04-18_a86cd65962c1d.jpg"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 42.59%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000430484/design/2024-04-18_4f0eadde94f.gif"></figure>&nbsp;The sides are super convinient to store everything you need (there is also a spot for a small alen key).&nbsp;I have added the step files if you want to design your own soldering iron mount or use a different base.&nbsp;Miscellaneous:<ul><li>20 * M3 brass insert</li><li>22* M3x8</li><li>1 * M3x6 screw</li><li>2 * M3 Nut</li><li>3 * M3x25 screw</li><li>7 * M5 nut</li><li>6 * M5x10 or M5x12 screw</li><li>1 * M5x16 thumb screw</li><li>2 * GT2 idle pulley ID Ø3mm</li><li>1 * GT2 belt (200mm should be enough)</li><li>1 * Spring or elastic band</li><li>1 * LML12B 200mm linear rail</li><li>1 * <a target="_blank" href="https://cnckitchen.store/products/ts100-101-adapter-tips-set-m2-x-m3-m4-m5-m6-1-4-m8-100-lead-and-cadmium-free" rel="nofollow noopener">CNC kitchen Heat Insert Set</a></li><li>Optional :<ul><li>1 * M4x8 Screw</li><li>1 * M4 nut</li></ul></li></ul>Assembling:<ul><li>Insert M3 brass insert (see red arrow below)</li><li>Use M3x8 screw everywhere except 1 * M3x25 (see orange arrow below)</li><li>Use 1 * M3x6 screw to lock the spring or elastic band</li><li>Use 2 M3x25 to mount the GT2 idle pulley</li><li>Insert M5 Nut (see yellow arrow below)</li><li>Make sure to run the belt before assembling the GT2 idle pulley</li><li>Use a small piece of adhesive tape to secure the belt on the arm mount (makes it so much easier to mount the belt on the sliding carriage)</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 79.45%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000430484/design/2024-04-18_86b4fd1a3ef78.png"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 35.29%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000430484/design/2024-04-18_75b2c88e1b92e.png"></figure>&nbsp;Print settings:<ul><li>PETG for the soldering iron holder, other part can be printed in PLA</li><li>Layer height : 0.2 mm</li><li>No support</li><li>Print orientation as shown below :</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 54.24%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000430484/design/2024-04-18_75456e3a941b9.jpg"></figure>

Minimalist Heat Insert Press

Værktøj

ThePrinterPrinted

This is NOT my work, but I found it extremely useful so I wanted to post it here. All credit goes to ORM over at printables.&nbsp;This space saving battery dispenser is designed to hold both AA and AAA batteries, 12 AA and 13 AAA. There is a Voronoi pattern on the sides of the magazine to make it easy to see how many batteries are left. The drawback of this design is that batteries can fall between the rails when inserted. The back follows the curvature of the magazine, reducing the risk of batteries falling out during loading. However, you still need to be careful when loading.Installation The battery dispenser is screwed to the wall. This ensures that the mounting is strong and secure. To assemble the battery dispenser, place the right and left wings together and overlap them, then insert the screws through the screw holes and screw into the wall. Use a flat head screw that fits countersunk holes with a diameter of 3-3.5 mm and a length of 16-20 mm, but this may vary depending on the type of wall you have.Printing and print settingsIn the model files, the parts are orientated in the direction best suited for printing. For the best results, print the battery dispenser lying flat on the side. Use e.g. PLA for printing with a layer height of 0.2mm and a nozzle width of 0.4mm or less. A wall thickness of at least 3 lines and an infill of 25%. A support structure is recommended for the screw holes.

Lightboxes

Electrical

Printer mods

Models & Toys

Værktøj

Home improvements