Honkitos

K2_Kevin

Bambu AMS retraction issues keeping you up at night? One part of my easy add-on fixes, quick print, try it now!The PTFE Coupler Support helps resolve AMS Slot 3, failed to feed filament &amp; other AMS retraction errors due to resistance caused by the angle of entry and exit at the PTFE coupler in the back of your Bambu X1C or P1P/P1S.&nbsp;◉ Be sure to also look at adding my Hotend PTFE Guide, Buffer Block, and Buffer PTFE Support Button, the combination of all the PTFE supports really helps reduce and even eliminate all feed/retraction issues.&nbsp;UPDATE 12/20/2023: Added a Shorter stem version (SHORTY). Good for the black rubber (printer) side, If you need more space between coupler and black rubber.&nbsp;NOTE: This model does not replace your coupler, it slides onto your PTFE tubes before and after the coupler.&nbsp;&nbsp;⭐️Don&#39;t forget to Follow! Thank you so much for your Downloads, Like and BOOSTS!<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000093011/design/2023-12-14_783f983fd66a6.png"></figure>&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000093011/design/2023-12-13_b6f2f0367631a.jpg"></figure><h2> </h2>&nbsp;&nbsp;<h3>Check out a few other helpful accessories for smooth operation.</h3><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/152636#profileId-166676" rel="nofollow noopener">Hotend PTFE Guide</a><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/152636#profileId-166676" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000093011/design/2024-04-24_752be73a02f9.png"></a><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/52179#profileId-53992" rel="nofollow noopener">AMS Buffer Block</a><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/52179#profileId-53992" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000093011/design/2024-04-01_94be6ea3d1f74.png"></a>&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/51579#profileId-105225" rel="nofollow noopener">AMS Support Button</a><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/51579#profileId-105225" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000093011/design/2024-04-01_e1bb7a4ccb38c8.png"></a>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

PTFE Coupler Support - Resolve Retraction Errors

Damiano

Please give me a thumbs up 👍🏻 if you like this, even if you don&#39;t download this - it’ll help more people discover this model. Thanks so much ! Hi ! I made this TPU JAYO filament and process profile for my use but I want to share with You. It&#39;s almost tuned and You can tune it as You want but it&#39;s ready for printing - no stringing and other defects. Delete “calicat.STL” model or uncheck it from Object list, add model that You want to print and enjoy the results ! Please remember to dry TPU before printing ! (even if You opened new, not used filament) Feel free to comment and if You like it please click “Like” button. If You like my model You can buy me a coffee ---&gt; <a target="_blank" href="https://paypal.me/DamianS0k0l" rel="nofollow noopener">https://paypal.me/DamianS0k0l</a>

TPU JAYO preset profile Filament and Process P1S

Filament settings

onegotowned

These are labeled caps for the Embedded Magnet Dispenser Tool by Brian Dean (<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/60890#profileId-63102" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/60890#profileId-63102</a>) that keep the magnets securely inside the barrel of the dispenser. These were only tested on the magnetic dispensers printed in PETG, but should fit models printed in other materials as long as you are using the print profiles included with the original model.&nbsp;I tested the caps printed in Bambu Lab PLA Basic filament and intentionally made them a tight fit to account for wear caused by frequent use. I recommend rotating the cap while installing/removing it to make the process easier. If you find that the fit is too tight for your preference, then scale the object up by 1-2%. I added a beveled edge to make the initial insertion even easier. The diameter of the barrel is engraved on each cap to allow for simple color painting in Bambu Studio using the fill tool.&nbsp;There are two print profiles: one for dual color and one for single color prints. Each profile contains a plate with 2 caps for a particular diameter and then one plate with a set of all 9 diameters for the most efficient print (especially if using dual colors).

Caps for Embedded Magnet Dispenser Tool

Tools

Roland Deschain

I loved the concept behind <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/social/11728-lukes-3d/about" rel="nofollow noopener">Luke's 3D's</a> original model but it didn't fit my daughter's toothpaste. I also found the model quite hard to assemble as the tolerances were tight and there was little to no horizontal expansion (elephant's foot) compensation built in.So while I was lengthening the model I decided to make the following improvements:<ul><li>Increased shaft and body length by 10mm</li><li>Increased tube slot width on the shaft and body slightly</li><li>Added chamfer to all surfaces that touch the build plate to compensate for horizontal expansion</li><li>Added a bump on the shaft to prevent the tip from coming out while removing the tube</li><li>Stiffened up the ratchet arms</li><li>Improved aesthetics (subjective :))</li><li>Less post processing is required for assembly</li></ul>Warning: If you print a third party profile you may not be getting the latest version or the highest quality print. &nbsp;If you like this project, please don't forget to ❤ Like and ★ Rate! <h4>Printing tips</h4>I've been printing the bodies in PLA and the handle, ratchet, and shaft in PETG.<ul><li>0.4mm nozzle</li><li>0.2mm layer height</li><li>Support is not required</li><li>Print as shown in the attached screenshot (widest flat faces touching build plate)</li></ul>

Ratcheted Toothpaste Tube Squeezer

Household

BC Designs

Mounting the external spool on the side for easier access, with added filament guide for smooth operation. &nbsp;&nbsp;Parts<ul><li>2 x 608ZZ bearings</li><li>1 x PC4-M10 Pneumatic Connector (optional, included filament arm for PTFE tubing for those without)</li><li>1 x m3 x 14mm or 16mm for the top screw hole (start with the smaller one first as can bottom out and get stuck easily).</li><li>2 x m3 x 18mm for the bottom screw holes.</li></ul>Connector: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0966XQ4C4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0966XQ4C4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1</a>&nbsp;Choose either the 3mf file with the PC4-M10 fitting, or the one with PTFE passthrough.&nbsp;Included 3mf file setup as follows:<ul><li>0.20 layer height @ 50% infil, I recommend PLA+</li><li>4 walls</li><li>4 top and bottom layers</li><li>Supports</li><li>Spool on 2nd build plate as I think the model looks better in 2 colours :)</li><li>Both filament arms included on build plate, remove the one you dont want.</li></ul>&nbsp;Assembly<ol><li>Spend a few minutes carefully removing the supports from the inner slots </li><li>Screw on the pneumatic connector to the filament guide and inert some bowden tubing. The PC4-M10s allow the tubing to pass through.</li><li>Screw to side of case using the top back case screw hole and the 2 original screw holes.</li><li>Slide on spool holder. </li><li>Slide on filament arm.</li><li>Detatch when not in use or leave as is.</li></ol>

Bambu X1C / P1S side mount spool holder v2

P1S Upgrades

ABDELat

Fast and easy to print Gridfinity Base for <a target="_blank" href="https://www.ikea.com/at/en/p/alex-drawer-unit-white-00473546/" rel="nofollow noopener">Ikea Alex Drawer (36x70 cm)</a>. The printfile contains 5 plates with all necessary parts for 1 drawer.If your looking for bins, I&#39;ve an <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/de/models/47599" rel="nofollow noopener">ultimate collection</a> for that.<ul><li>Plate 1<ul><li>Grid 4x5</li><li>23x Connector (22 needed + 1 spare) optional</li></ul></li><li>Plate 2<ul><li>Grid 4x5</li></ul></li><li>Plate 3<ul><li>Grid 3x5</li><li>Grid 2x4</li></ul></li><li>Plate 4<ul><li>Grid 3x5</li><li>Grid 2x3</li></ul></li><li>Plate 5<ul><li>Spacer</li></ul></li></ul>PLA printtime: ~3:55h and 116,9g material (single color)PETG printtime: ~4:25h and 115,0g material (single color)&nbsp;I recommend to put the 2 small grids and the spacer in the back of the drawer.The grid can be printed in PLA or PETG. I recommend 0.4mm nozzle and 0.2mm layer height.&nbsp;Additional Tools and Helpers<ul><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/models/208796" rel="nofollow noopener">Gridfinity Height ruler - slim Edition</a>: Helps you to find the correct bin height.</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/476336" rel="nofollow noopener">AIO parametric Gridfinty Project</a>: Generate you own gridfinity bin.</li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/28581" rel="nofollow noopener">Slim Gridfinity Base for Ikea Alex:</a> Perfectly fitting grid for Ikea Alex Drawer</li></ul>&nbsp;Source: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/430144-gridfinity-base-with-snap-connectors" rel="nofollow noopener">Gridfinity Base</a> <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/535032-gridfinity-ikea-alex-spacer-with-snap-connectors" rel="nofollow noopener">Spacer</a>&nbsp;<h4>A1 mini Edition:</h4>I&#39;ve included a profile for all A1 mini user out there. Basically you&#39;ll need three 4x4-Grids and three 3x4-Grids. The Spacer is cut in half, so it fits the print plate. You don&#39;t need to glue them together. Just use some connectors. The connectors are optional. You just need them if you don&#39;t fill the drawer space all with bins.<h3>Share your makes and support me</h3>If you like my work, give it a 🚀 boost 🚀 (the button is right below the Download). You can <a target="_blank" href="https://brickbank.app/support/" rel="nofollow noopener">support me here</a>, via <a target="_blank" href="https://ko-fi.com/brickbankapp" rel="nofollow noopener">Ko-Fi</a> or <a target="_blank" href="https://patreon.com/brickbankAPP" rel="nofollow noopener">Patreon</a>. Please leave a comment or share your makes 😁.  I appreciate your support! If your interested in selling the printed models DM me.

Slim Gridfinity Base for Ikea Alex Drawer

Ikea Alex

ralf.hoerhager

<h4>General Information</h4>I wanted an easy to print and nice looking frame for some Lithophane's I have. Furthermore, it should use cheap lights with batteries. I couldn't find something I liked so I drew my own in Fusion360.&nbsp;<h4>Parts and Tool</h4>The Lights I used <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.de/Lichterkette-Silberdraht-Weihnachten-Halloween-Beleuchtung/dp/B07CRJT4LG?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">BXROIU 2 x 20er Micro LED</a>I used the <a target="_blank" href="https://lithophanemaker.com/Framed%20Lithophane.html" rel="nofollow noopener">Flat Lithophane Maker</a> to create the Lithophane.Filament <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.de/SUNLU-Filament-Printer-Tolerance-Accuracy/dp/B07XFL3XB9/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=sunlu%2Bwhite&qid=1669161240&sr=8-7&th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">Sunlu PLA+ white</a> and <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.de/SUNLU-Filament-Printer-Tolerance-Accuracy/dp/B07TJXL2T8/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=sunlu%2Bwhite&qid=1669161240&sr=8-7&th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">Sunlu Wood</a>&nbsp;<h4>The settings I used</h4><figure class="table" style="width:714px;"><table style="border:1px double var(--input-border);"><tbody><tr><td style="border:1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;vertical-align:top;">Lithophane Resolution (mm/pixel)</td><td style="border:1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;vertical-align:top;">0,2</td></tr><tr><td style="border:2px solid rgb(232, 64, 64);padding:0.4em;vertical-align:top;">Width (mm)</td><td style="border:2px solid rgb(232, 64, 64);padding:0.4em;vertical-align:top;">170</td></tr><tr><td style="border:2px solid rgb(232, 64, 64);padding:0.4em;vertical-align:top;">Height (mm)</td><td style="border:2px solid rgb(232, 64, 64);padding:0.4em;vertical-align:top;">120</td></tr><tr><td style="border:2px solid rgb(232, 64, 64);padding:0.4em;vertical-align:top;">Depth (mm)</td><td style="border:2px solid rgb(232, 64, 64);padding:0.4em;vertical-align:top;">6</td></tr><tr><td style="border:1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;vertical-align:top;">Base Height (mm)</td><td style="border:1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;vertical-align:top;">3</td></tr><tr><td style="border:1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;vertical-align:top;">Overhang Angle (deg)</td><td style="border:1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;vertical-align:top;">60</td></tr><tr><td style="border:1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;vertical-align:top;">Maximum Thickness (mm)</td><td style="border:1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;vertical-align:top;">2,4</td></tr><tr><td style="border:1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;vertical-align:top;">Minimum Thickness (mm)</td><td style="border:1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;vertical-align:top;">0,6</td></tr></tbody></table></figure>The Width, Height and Depth are important. You need to use the same values as above or change the frame model. The other settings depend on the printer you are using. I used a modified Artillery Sidewinder X1 to print this model. &nbsp;<h4>My print settings</h4>Lithophane:<ul><li>0,4mm Nozzle </li><li>0,2mm layer Hight</li><li>4 perimeter</li><li>100% infill</li></ul>Frame:<ul><li>0,6mm Nozzle </li><li>0,3mm layer Hight</li><li>3 perimeter</li><li>30% infill</li></ul>&nbsp;<h4>Assembly </h4>It's very simple: <ol><li>Thread the fairy lights through the hole on the back.</li><li>Bend the fairy lights so that they are nicely wrapped in the groove. Fix with hot glue if necessary.</li><li>Simply place the Lithophane in the slot provided.</li></ol>If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask me in the comments.

Lithophane frame

Lithophane

jimcorner

Here's improved flow calibration compared to Orca or Bambu Studio. This is the third iteration from the original models: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/108065#profileId-115396" rel="nofollow noopener">Improved flow ratio (extrusion multiplier) calibration v1 by jimcorner - MakerWorld</a>, <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/179247" rel="nofollow noopener">Improved Flow Calibration v2 by jimcorner - MakerWorld</a>. The goal is to make flow rate calibration as straightforward as possible with a repeatable and clear standard.&nbsp;Please download the 3mf file and slice it yourself in Orca, the 3mf does not work with Bambu Studio bc it doesn't support per object flow ratio setting! As a result, the print profiles uploaded by other people here likely won't work.&nbsp;Why I upload this:<ol><li>the default flow calibration is bad at determining which flow rate has the smoothest surface with the monotonic top infill pattern, especially for white filaments. The result is often subjective.</li><li>There are too many test pieces to keep track of.</li></ol>What's improved compared with Orca/Bambu Studio:<ol><li>The result is now much more definitive and clear, I can even capture it with my phone camera as shown in the photos</li><li>The top surface is Archimedean Chords pattern instead of monotonic, and line width is increased to 0.6mm, making it much easier to tell which flow rate is the best and take out the guess work. All other settings are exactly the same as Orca Slicer/Bambu Studio flow ratio calibration, so the calibration print is set up similar to originally intended.</li><li>The test pieces are put together as one piece, instead of 10 smaller pieces that tends to clutter up space and easy to be lost.</li></ol>How to use this test:Prerequisite: open the 3mf file in orca slicer, and select the filament you want to calibrate.<ol><li>Pass 1: change the flow ratio in the filament tab to 1.0. Once that's set correctly, the flow ratio of the 7 pieces are: 1.12, 1.08, 1.04, 1, 0.96, 0.92, 0.88. Slice plate 1 named “rough”, and print. Find the flow ratio right before the raised right half circle appears, as flow_rate_rough. Usually this number is around 1.0, and if you know the ballpark number, you can use that value and skip this step.</li><li>Pass 2: change the flow ratio in the filament tab to flow_rate_rough from pass 1. Slice and print the second plate named “fine”. Going from bottom to top, find the second flow ratio that gives the raised right half circle, as captured in the photos above. This is the optimal value to use for future printing.</li><li>Optional: If there are fewer than two pieces with the raised right half circle, repeat pass 2 with increased value for flow_rate_rough.</li></ol>&nbsp;Notes: in pass 2, the flow ratio of the 7 pieces are: [1.03*flow_rate_rough, 1.02*flow_rate_rough, 1.01*flow_rate_rough, 1*flow_rate_rough, 0.99*flow_rate_rough, 0.98*flow_rate_rough, 0.97*flow_rate_rough]. You can also see this in the per object setting → quality → flow ratio. The actual flow ratio when printing is the filament flow ratio value set in the filament tab * the scalar set in the per object flow ratio scalar.&nbsp;&nbsp;Why/how well this works:The optimal flow ratio should make the lines squish into each other to fill the gaps, but they should not be squished together too much because severe over extrusion creates ridges and uneven surfaces. The goal is to find the optimal flow ratio for the right amount of squishiness between the extrusion lines. Here the Archimedean Chords pattern and larger line width of 0.6 amplify the effect of between-line-squishiness by inspecting the raised right half circle. As the flow rate goes up from the bottom to the top of the test pieces, the optimal flow rate would be somewhere when the raised right half circles start to appear as it means the lines start to get squished together. To account for the test error bar and filament diameter variation, I choose the second visible raised right half circle for the optimal flow ratio. In my testing this gives a smooth top surface in my normal prints with minimal/no signs of over-extrusion. And the results I get is consistent with the values provided by the manufacturers as well, which gives me confidence as this method converges with manufacturers suggestions. For example, in the photos, the red filament is polylite pla which has 0.95 flow ratio recommended by polymaker, and my test gives 0.95. The white filament is sunlu pla+ has recommended 0.98 flow ratio and my test gives 0.98.&nbsp;

Improved Flow ratio Calibration v3

calibration

manuelbonetto.10

VERY VERY SIMPLE AND FAST TO PRINT, YOU WILL FIND DIFFERENT STL FILES READY TO BE PRINTED WITH DIFFERENT DIAMETERS FOR EVERY FINGERPRINT SETTING<ul><li>Nozzle Size: 0,4mm</li><li>Layer Height: 0.2/0,1mm(personally I suggest to print at 0.1 layer height for a better aesthetic result) </li><li>Vertical Shells: 2</li><li>Top/Bottom Layer: 4</li><li>Infill: 10%</li></ul>IF YOU WANT YOU CAN INSERT VARIOUS COLOR CHANGES TO HAVE A BETTER AESTHETIC

LOW POLY RING

marpicio7

review of the sunlu s2 ptfe tube adapterdouble connection for tangent wire exit both from the top and from the bottom. for the lower part the existing hole must be slightly enlarged by a few tenths of a mmsuitable for M10 quick connectors&nbsp;The following parts are required.1x PC4-01 Bowden connector A piece of double-sided heat-resistant foam tape (i used 3M adesive).

AMS