Hardi84

Chester3D

&nbsp;IntroductionThe original model is designed for printers with a 250x250mm bed.&nbsp;If for any reason it doesn't fit on your bed, you can resize the model to the size you want from your slicer.&nbsp;It consists of two parts, the lamp body (body.3mf) and the rear cover (lid.3mf).Sometimes I include two lids, with and without a hole (choose the one you want, I recommend printing the Lid with hole whenever possible, to be able to remove the LED cable).&nbsp;If the back cover does not have a hole, you can easily make it from Bambu Studio, or from any other slicer you use.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;You will need<ul><li>Textured PEI Sheet: <a target="_blank" href="https://eu.store.bambulab.com/products/bambu-textured-pei-plate" rel="nofollow noopener">https://eu.store.bambulab.com/products/bambu-textured-pei-plate</a></li><li>- LED Strip (with switch): https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DFOBtHT</li></ul>Optional, but recommended:<ul><li>Aluminum tape: <a target="_blank" href="https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DEPgqHd" rel="nofollow noopener">https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DEPgqHd</a></li><li>- Glue gun or Tape</li></ul>&nbsp;&nbsp;Assembly instructionsYou can follow either of these two videos to assemble the lamp. It's very simple, you stick the LED strip inside and that's it. If you want, you can use aluminum tape to improve the lighting, although it is not necessary: &nbsp;<ul><li>Assembly instructions by braga3dprint: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QNsShLmXYh0" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QNsShLmXYh0</a> (He makes very beautiful designs, you can leave him a follow and help him grow his channel!)</li><li>- Another assembly instructions: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDUlBp7Mm1c----" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDUlBp7Mm1c----</a></li></ul>&nbsp;&nbsp;Printing settingsFollowing recommendations, you can start with these settings in Bambu Studio:<ul><li>Preferences (CTRL + P) → Activate developer settings → Quality → Advanced → First Layer Flow Ratio: 1.04</li><li>- Quality → Wall generator → Arachne</li><li>- Quality → Wall transitioning threshold angle → 50 degrees</li><li>- Strength → Advanced → Infill/wall overlap → 20%</li><li>- Quality → Advanced → Avoid crossing walls</li><li>- Increasing retraction / reducing temperature can help reducing wisps</li><li>- Order color printing from lightest to darkest color</li></ul>&nbsp;Important! Additional tips Remember to remove the purge line at the start printing, otherwhise it will ruin the print.Adjust the sequence of colors from Light colors to Dark colors, to prevent stringing. &nbsp;

Merry Grinchmas LED Lamp

Vielleicht drucken

chiz_m

<h3>RELEASE HISTORY</h3>2023-12-17: Thinner version print profile added that may work better for others with printers that don&#39;t have the frames completely flushed. See Tips for Success section below for more details.2023-11-17: Version 2 - now covers the entire length of the lead screw and more rigid. Additionally, magnets can now be added.2023-11-12: Initial Release________________________<h3>If you find that this shield works great for you, pls hit that BOOST button!</h3><h3>PROBLEM</h3>Grease from the z-axis lead screw would often get into hands/arms when getting finished prints from the printer.<h3>SOLUTION</h3>Design a shield that would cover the lead screws but not affect the printer functionality.<h3>IMPORTANT NOTE (Please read first!)</h3>As the tolerances in the assembled unit varies, this lead screw cover might not work on your printer. See item #1 below in the Tips for Success section. The left side of the printer has very little room to fit the shield and if you have a really skewed printer frame, the shield could rub against the print bed assembly. I noticed this difference between the two (2) X1C&#39;s that I have. You can try the thinner version as it might fit better to your unit over the regular version. Lastly, this requires a really calibrated filament for the part to fit. Over extruded filament will cause the part to be thicker and very tight while under extrusion would make the part thin and loose. Please do NOT rate the model low because it didn&#39;t fit well to your unit, which may have really skewed frame or your filament isn&#39;t calibrated correctly. A lot of people have successfully installed this shield and continue to use it today without issues.<h3>PRINTING DIRECTIONS</h3><ol><li>Print as oriented.</li><li>Model has built-in support. Remove supports after printing.</li><li>Part clips to the z-axis lead screw bearing mount. Optional: Add 8x3mm magnets.</li><li>Left and right shield are mirror of each other. Flip in the x-axis in the slicer to print the other. Alternatively, print using the provided left and right profiles.</li></ol><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000062988/design/2023-11-17_e498439f53add.png"></figure><h4>TIPS FOR SUCCESS</h4><ol><li>Variances in the unit assembly. I found it myself that there are variances in the assembly of the units that may affect the fit of the shield esp. on the left side. See picture below. You can see on the left (blue) that the lead screw mount is flushed to the vertical post of the frame compared to the one on the right (light brown). This makes the shield pushed against the print bed support and might not fit well. <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000062988/design/c3bcc624-ac61-4c7f-be2c-e34a4ee3bf82.webp">  </li><li>Curved edge. If you happen to get the printed part from the print bed when it&#39;s not fully cooled down yet, you might have a curved edge. This will cause the print bed support to rub against the curved edge of the shield.  <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000062988/design/bdaca8b8-c292-4044-8224-715515a9ba55.png"></li></ol><h3>MATERIAL RECOMMENDATIONS</h3><ul><li>Use high temperature resistant material like PETG, ASA or ABS as PLA might warp overtime.</li></ul>

Vielleicht drucken

Das muss ich drucken