Filamaze

CarloM

This model was prepared to collect the very nice  “Surpise-eggs” of agepbizThe 3d model is a remix of  “Egg Carton 002 3D Model” of Freepik.com. Some modifications to the original model were necessary to guarantee the planarity of box (cover and base) improving the printed objectThe model was printed on BL A1, 0.4 mm nozzle with BL PLA Matte (latte brown).Special mode “Fuzzy skin” and “0.28 mm Extra draft profile” to simulate the “paperboard” raw effect

Surprise-eggs paperboard-like box

classe TSA

Michyprint3D

fenicottero gonfiabile, può essere utilizzato come svuotatasche, porta oggetti, porta gioielli,  simpatico sottobicchiere,oggetto di arredamento.galleggia in acqua.&nbsp;sono disponibili 2 file uno con 4 colori per l&#39; AMS  e uno tutto rosa per il monocolore.&nbsp;io l&#39;ho stampato monocolore e successivamente dipinto a mano

inflatable flamingo

fete sonia

OuijaWitch

Things you will need include:<ol><li>Pliers/tweezers or something to hold the end of the spiral to roll</li><li>Heated glue tool</li><li>Cardboard or something to secure the bottom of the flower</li></ol>This is a step by step craft, it takes time to perfect these, after a few you will get thehand of it. :)&nbsp;So I get my heat tool ready by heating it up while I print the flowers because the flowers print pretty quickly.I then put everything in one area so I can do everything in one sitting. I remove the thin piece of filament from the buildplate and use my pliers to grab the end NOT the middle with the tab. I twist these in a circle around one another to createa flower effect. I personally do not use the tab that is in the middle, I cut that off and use a piece of cardboard or the back of theshadow box frame I am filling and I attach the flowers in the areas I wish. The hot glue will keep them in place if you use glue on the last petal and also on the bottom of the flower. You will want to put the glue down and let it cool down before you attach the flower to the spot it is supposed to go or it will melt the PLA. This is a process so you will want to be patient, these can be frustrating the first few times. I have made about 10 of these now and I am finally figuring out the perfect method for myself.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kRt0gNeuB-k&amp;t=1181s" rel="nofollow noopener">Rolled Paper flowers with the Cricut 7 styles and how to do them (youtube.com)</a>

3D printable rollable flowers shadowbox style #3

flower

Rubiksensei

NEW : <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/403534#profileId-305190" rel="nofollow noopener">inserts </a>to store SD cards and game cartridges compatible with this design !You can also check out my foldable <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/491147#profileId-404638" rel="nofollow noopener">Dice TowerBox</a> made to fit inside my deckboxes !&nbsp;A kick from 2004 to store your cards ! Up to 130 double-sleeved cards (200 simple-sleeved or 400 sleeveless, 82×96×76mm). No problem to store Yu-Gi-Oh cards as well as Magic and Pokemon. Clips and pressure fit enclosure, up to 8 3×5ømm magnets to secure a bit more.&nbsp;💾 Files included 💾 - Top and bottom parts- Alternative version without magnet holes - A divider&nbsp;Still room for improvement on the topology, feel free to leave a comment/suggestion.&nbsp;💵 A word to pro-printer/seller 💵 Attribution is mandatory. Just add my IG (@rubiksensei) and/or my cults3d page link at the end of the product page.

TCG Deckbox - NGC EDITION

MTG DECK BOX

MinerJ

Snack tray that fits on a 40oz Stanley cup. Features 4 divided bins, and fits securely over the handle while minimizing interference with handle use. Requires support for the portion that sits above the handle, standard supports recommended. Profiles for both PLA and TPU included. Most people seem to prefer the flexible TPU version over PLA or PETG.

Snack tray for 40oz Stanley Cup

stanley

Sakul

Nuka Cola from the videogame series Fallout. The bottle features a screw-on cap that can even hold liquid if you clean up the top of the thread from the print lines so the cap sits nice and flush on the bottle. The logo and the cap are multicolor prints that have the Nuka Cola logo implemented. You can print the bottle either with the logo included or without and add the logo later as a sticker or something similar. The print profile is scaled to 125%, but the parts can also be scaled to different sizes.&nbsp;

Nuka Cola Bottle Fallout

fallout

R C 3D

PRINT PROFILES: The following are the only print profiles tested and approved by me. They are listed by the name I provided in the print profile description. I cannot guarantee the quality of any print profile that hasn’t been uploaded by me.&nbsp;<ul><li>Pokeball Upper</li><li>Pokeball Lower</li><li>Pokeball Top Shell</li><li>Pokeball Bottom Shell</li><li>Pokeball Button</li><li>Pokeball v2</li><li>Pokeball Stand</li><li>Great ball</li><li>Ultra ball</li><li>Master ball</li></ul>&nbsp;SUMMARY: This is a simple pokeball that I designed to print without any additional hardware, and minimal supports. The intent was to make the pokeball as easy to print and assemble as possible, while remaining tough and functional. If you find any issues, leave me some feedback please.&nbsp;Printing/Assembly:If you decide not to use the print profiles, these are the settings I used.&nbsp;<ul><li>Global Settings:<ul><li>6 Wall Loops</li><li>Gyroid Infill</li></ul></li><li>Red and White Pokeball Shell:<ul><li>Enable Supports: Normal (Auto)<ul><li>Snug</li><li>On Build Plate Only</li></ul></li></ul></li></ul>Assembly:The assembly is done by first gluing the top shell and bottom shell to the pokeball internals. There’s a small square tab to help align the pieces. Once the glue is dry, slide a small piece of filament through the hinge while holding the two halves together. Cut the ends flush to the pokeball. I add a drop of glue to the outside pieces of the filament since the center hinge piece is the only one that needs to rotate in order to operate. Finally, glue the button onto the pokeball. There’s a post designed to help align the pieces.&nbsp;The filament piece used for the hinge will be tight, so you might have to take an allen key and hollow out the hole a bit to get it to slide into place.&nbsp;That's all there is to it. Follow my facebook page, RC3D, for giveaways and entry details as well as my latest models.&nbsp;CHANGELOG:&nbsp;UPDATE 12/3/2023:Added great ball, ultra ball, and master ball tops. I only added the top because everything else is the same, so I'll include 3 separate print profiles for these.&nbsp;UPDATE 11/26/2023:Added a guide post for the button, revised the connection to fit better, thickened the shells to prevent the banding, added alignment squares to align the shell and internals, added a stand.&nbsp;INITIAL RELEASE (10/19/2023)I created this model because the other Pokeball models I found either used external parts or didn't operate how I wanted. This one is designed to open and close using the button on the front. The button isn't 100% required to open the ball, but the intent was to make it functional so it just makes the ball pop open freely. The inside has a flat spot to aid in aligning the outer shell and make printing easier.&nbsp;

Fully Printable Pokeball Set

fetes gars

H3RBSKI

Helldivers 2 coaster set i created for my brother, i will keep adding new ones as print profiles so check back for more :) 95x95x5mm requests welcome (they will help me pull my finger out)first time using fusion 360 so there may be a few inconsistenciesEnjoy :)&nbsp;Current coasters:&nbsp;Red:Eagle air strikeEagle 500kgMags empty - BECAUSE ITS ALWAYS DAMN EMPTY :)Teminid ScumOrbital EMSOrbital Laser380mm HE Orbital Barrage&nbsp;Blue:Rail gunSpearEAT - 17Jump packAuto cannonGuard Dog RoverEXO -45 mechShield generator packQuasar Cannon&nbsp;Green:Rocket sentryGatling sentryMortar sentryRocket sentryEMS Mortar&nbsp;Misc:Have a cup of Liber-tea ( helldivers logo)Hell divers 2 logoCoaster Holder&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Use reccomended settings for each profile (unless you want to tweak of course) ironing on all top layers on the coaster holder for a nice finish

Hell divers 2 coaster set

Helldivers 2

laisch

Primary I designed this Hexagon tile set to hide my cables from the TV. So there is plenty of space for cable management behind the tiles. There are four eyelets on each base plate for using zipties.Since the Tiles are featureing magnets to snap onto the base plate, they can easyly be removed or replaced for further upgrades and changes.&nbsp;<h3>Changelog:</h3><blockquote>Update 24.02.2024Added Half and Quater Tiles including Base in various heights  Update 10.03.2024 Add 15mm Tile for an "ESP32-2432S028R" - display (CYD)</blockquote>&nbsp;<h3>Features:</h3><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/678254/2024-02-25_37de1246fe4298.jpg"></figure><h3>Parts and Sizes:</h3><figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image image-style-align-center"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/678254/2024-02-23_lv79h61gd69w.jpg"></figure></td><td><figure class="image image-style-align-center"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/678254/2024-02-23_4twwg1nxuqfh.jpg"></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>The general Tile size is 175 x 202mmThe heights can go from 20mm up to 55mm in 5mm increments depending on the choosen base plate and tile size.Parts:<ul><li>Base Plate (10mm / 20mm)</li><li>Base Plate - Half (10mm / 20mm)</li><li>Base Plate - Quater (10mm / 20mm)</li><li>Outside LED (Base + 25mm height)</li><li>Outside LED (Base + 35mm height)</li><li>LED Clock Tile (Base + 25mm height)</li><li>CYD - Display Tile (Base + 15mm height)</li><li>Cable Outlet (Base + 20mm heignt)</li><li>Standard Tiles (Base + 10 / 15 / 20 / 25 / 30 / 35mm height)</li><li>Half Tiles (Base + 10 / 15 / 20 / 25 / 30 / 35mm height)</li><li>Quater Tiles (Base + 10 / 15 / 20 / 25 / 30 / 35mm height)</li><li>Bowties for connecting the Base Plates (tight or loose fit - version, depending on your filament settings)</li></ul>&nbsp;<h3>Preparing the Project</h3>Before you start this project you should make a Sketch how you want the tiles to be orientated on the Wall. The file of the "Base Plates" consists of 7 individual parts where 6 of them can be removed individually for defining how the cables should run and how the base plates are connected to each other.If you miss this step and print the base plate without removing the connection sides, you have no openings for the bow ties to connect each tile to another and alighning them will be much more difficult.Using Bambu Studio for customization:<figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image image-style-align-center"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/678254/2024-02-23_lslj0l044c4g.jpg"></figure>Right Click on the base plate > split > to parts</td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image image-style-align-center"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/678254/2024-02-23_w6036cdssgaa.jpg"></figure>Switch to the “Object” Tab and remove the unwanted parts</td></tr></tbody></table></figure>The LED Tiles can also be splitted apart for easy coloring.&nbsp;<h3>External Hardware</h3><ul><li>Magnets D: 6mm, H: 3mm (6-12 per tile)</li><li>10mm wide LED Stripe of your choice (I used WS2812b)</li><li>Clock mechanism with 12mm long shaft (only if you want to make the clock tile)</li><li>mounting screws</li></ul>&nbsp;<h3>Used Filament</h3><ul><li>PLA - Black (for Base and Tiles)</li><li>PLA - White (for the diffusor part of the Tiles)</li></ul><h3>Printing</h3>For best looking Result the tiles should be printed on a textured PEI - plate.&nbsp;<h3>Installation</h3><figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td><figure class="image image-style-align-center"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/678254/2024-02-23_v1legy4d1w1l.jpg"></figure>The hole for the magnet is a tight fit, I used a hammer and a pin to put them into place.  Be aware of the magnet orientation. They should all be in the same orientation so you are able to switch tiles! If your fit is more on the loose side (different filament / settings) then you should add little superglue before pressing them into the hole.On the Cover plates be more careful when using the hammer.</td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image image-style-align-center"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/678254/2024-02-23_3j9vx6gxpi77.jpg"></figure>The bowties can pressfit into place</td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image image-style-align-center"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/678254/2024-02-23_71wh5qrhupmz.jpg"></figure>Screw the Base Plates into the wall</td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image image-style-align-center"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/678254/2024-02-23_9zfawcajua07.jpg"></figure>Install the LED stripes into the LED Tiles</td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image image-style-align-center"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/678254/2024-02-23_q1wwhedkgpo4.jpg"></figure>Install the Tiles and do the cable management</td></tr><tr><td><figure class="image image-style-align-center"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/678254/2024-02-23_s8ejkpb7gn4r.jpg"></figure>Have Fun!</td></tr></tbody></table></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;

Hexatiles - Hexagon LED Wall tiles

desk set up

MTKDesigns

This model is the Original Jordan 1&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;The supports on the bottom are a little time consuming to remove.  I hit it with the orbital sander for a min or 2 with 80 grit and then again with 320 and it will smooth out.  &nbsp;***NOT for commercial use***I have had a LOT of interest in a  Commercial license on these.  I have created a Patreon just for this purpose.<a target="_blank" href="http://patreon.com/MTKDesign" rel="nofollow noopener">patreon.com/MTKDesign</a>

Nike Air Jordan 1 (Original Uploader)

Articulated

LayerModels

<h4>Create your own name in 3D!</h4>The file contains the complete alphabet in the standard font. Print the letters you need and snap them together. Don't forget to print the endcaps to complete your nametag.You can even use the letters to print your own message or slogan.&nbsp;Other fonts are available <a target="_blank" href="https://cults3d.com/en/design-collections/LayerModels/3d-letters" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a>&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://cults3d.com/en/design-collections/LayerModels/3d-letters" rel="nofollow noopener"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/364477/rich_content/68da15ea-d698-41a1-8dbf-c369975fbdd6/thumbs/cover/800x1208/png/overview-fonts.webp"></a>If you like my work please consider supporting me by downloading one of these cool fonts for less than the price of a coffee, thanks!&nbsp;Print settings&nbsp;The 3D letters were tested in PLA with 0.2mm layer height. Print in the given orientation and no support is needed. Ensure a good first layer adhesion with sufficient bed temperature and slow first layer speed. Avoid elephant footing.&nbsp;----------&nbsp;Subscribe to <a target="_blank" href="https://patreon.com/LayerModels" rel="nofollow noopener">my patreon</a> if you are interested in a license to sell your prints commercialyFollow me on <a target="_blank" href="https://www.instagram.com/layermodels/" rel="nofollow noopener">instagram</a> to stay up to date with my latest 3D Models

3D Name from letters - Standard font

stuff to print

MEAF designs

Easy to print and fun to make!Perfect for your candy table, coffee table or any corner of your house&nbsp;&nbsp;Specially designed to fit in the buildplate of any mid size printer.The base is one piece. and every letter and details are separated files so you can print it in different colors even without an AMS.&nbsp;Designed two styles for every “O”. so you can choose what you like.<ul><li>First "O": choose between santa claus or tree ornament</li><li>Second “O”: choose between snowman face or snowman body</li><li>Third “O”: choose between reindeer or christmas elf</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/user/1795494732/draft/2023-09-02_n84evi4tipld.gif"></figure>&nbsp;split the "Details" file in to parts with your slicer and just print the details you like for each one and glue them on top!<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/user/1795494732/draft/2023-09-02_o1xtzxx4tz4i.png"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Print SettingsMaterial: PLA / PETGLayer height: 0,28 mm for letters and base. --- 0.2 for detailsNozzle diameter: 0,4mm or 0,6mmInfill: 10 -12%Perimeters: 2Supports: no&nbsp;Printing Tipthe tolerances are a little tight, so you will need some glue depending on your printer and/or filament calibration&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

Christmas hohoho Sign

Noel

planpa3d

A Mario style ghost floating around, suspended by his enormous tongue! Haha&nbsp;Check here for the King Boo M&M stash pot version, <a target="_blank" href="https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/king-boo-m-m-container-stash-pot" rel="nofollow noopener">https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/king-boo-m-m-container-stash-pot</a>Been wanting to design this ghost for awhile, but wasn't able to come up with an idea to get it to float around until now. The tongue makes the perfect stand for this Amazing module.&nbsp;Split the main ghost in two easy to print pieces. Orient the flat spots on the build plate and other than the supports for the pin holes no other supports are required.The mouth insert and tongue print out and fit great at 100% or what ever scale you desire.The eyes can be a bit tricky to pop into place, Study the module around the eyes and orient them correctly, placing the bottom part of the eye in place then pushing the rest in with a pen does the trick for me. If you have too much difficulty popping them in place try scaling them down 1%&nbsp;Make sure to put the mouth insert in place before attempting to press the teeth in. It just makes thing easier. The teeth should fit in fine printed at 100% but once again, if they are too much trouble try scaling them down 1%Thanks for checking out my design!!UPDATE 1/10/22 Added a loose fit teeth file. if you are haveing problems fitting the regular teeth in the model try this one with added tolerances. hopefully this helps.You can follow me on Instagram, <a target="_blank" href="https://www.instagram.com/pla.n.pa/" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.instagram.com/pla.n.pa/</a>to find out what I designs I am currently working on&nbsp;If your interested in selling prints of my designs, become a Patreon supporter here… <a target="_blank" href="https://patreon.com/planpa3d" rel="nofollow noopener">https://patreon.com/planpa3d</a>