Fantasy3DPrinting

MatejB

Tool for quick and easy removal of X1C hotend connector.Tweezers for other connectors available at <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/3536459773/collections/770294" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/u/3536459773/collections/770294</a>&nbsp;Agains standard JST tweezers, there is no chance pulling the female part connector out of PCB.&nbsp;<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/ildR0R2RKnk"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ildR0R2RKnk" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>&nbsp;Print SettingsPrint like this with tree supports, PETG material and 0.12 layer height.After the printing, postprocess with file or some knife the surface from support material.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:49.75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/655937/2024-02-29_fee9a80f79f9e.png"></figure>&nbsp;

Bambulab X1C hotend quick-tweezers

Tools

This model is an adaptation of about 6 different models all mashed together and rebuilt to work better. Fairly simple design and pretty easy setup with steady hands and a little trial and error. This uses a wireless charging induction system instead of standard wired LEDs. Theres a couple dif ways you can do this. You can order a 5v wireless charge system and supply your own leds but you need to make sure its a long distance system that carries enough amps. Or you can order the one linked below and its fairly plug and play. &nbsp;This is the charging system I used already has attached leds: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09LTZZ3KV?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09LTZZ3KV?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details</a>&nbsp;Youll need a 12v power supply some wire and a female to male standard 12v connector as well as some extra wire to go out the back of the base. As well as a solid adhesive hot glue works but the set time is a pain in the butt and will make this job much more frustrating.&nbsp;Here are the examples of the other parts needed:&nbsp;Charger- <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FEOB4EI?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FEOB4EI?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1</a>&nbsp;DC Female Connector - Pre Wired - <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/43x2pcs-Connectors-Security-Lighting-MILAPEAK/dp/B072BXB2Y8/ref=sr_1_1?crid=QN9YPXWT221V&keywords=dc+connectors&qid=1707971991&sprefix=dc+connectors+%2Caps%2C99&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/43x2pcs-Connectors-Security-Lighting-MILAPEAK/dp/B072BXB2Y8/ref=sr_1_1?crid=QN9YPXWT221V&keywords=dc+connectors&qid=1707971991&sprefix=dc+connectors+%2Caps%2C99&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1</a>Easy Clamps - <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/Power-Connector-Female-Adapter-Camera/dp/B07C61434H/ref=sr_1_3?crid=QN9YPXWT221V&keywords=dc+connectors&qid=1707972056&sprefix=dc+connectors+%2Caps%2C99&sr=8-3" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/Power-Connector-Female-Adapter-Camera/dp/B07C61434H/ref=sr_1_3?crid=QN9YPXWT221V&keywords=dc+connectors&qid=1707972056&sprefix=dc+connectors+%2Caps%2C99&sr=8-3</a>&nbsp;Adhesive - <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085BWFLKG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085BWFLKG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details</a>&nbsp;Its a pretty simple print supports should already be painted on, if you dont paint them on iv noticed that supports will pull pieces off the print and cause issues. Only use supports around the bottom hard edge and under the half tunnel inside the hammer head. I printed the base up side down with supports on. This is not 1:1 and scale if you want 1:1 scale to 100% but youll need split the base at that point. I suggest maybe scaling the base up a few % for better fitment by around 1-4%. I printed the hammer in PLA + Silver Grey, Base in Silver, Handle in PLA+ real wood. No supports are needed on the handle. &nbsp;Assembly: &nbsp;Its pretty cut and dry but some pointers. Glue your light ring inside the cap and then lights inside that ring. You are going to want to check fitment of everything and plug in lights and test ring locations as its fineky. Glue your lights to cap and then get your plugged in transmitter and put it inside base and play around with it untill you get the best lighting. This is where it gets tricky because youll need to hold that placement and get glue down all at the same time with two hands. After that its smooth sailing! &nbsp;Hanlde goes together real easy and only needs a little bit of glue to hold it together and in the hammer. I printed in wood and used a silver paint marker to paint the rings.&nbsp;Hammer head you just simply glue both halves together.&nbsp;

Cracked Mjolner With Wireless Leds and Base (Cracked Thor Hammer)

ItemsToPrint

technerd

THE ULTIMATE NOZZLE WIPER&nbsp;I print a lot of PETG with my Bambu Lab P1S and was a little disappointed with the original Nozzle Wiper it didn't cleaned well enough. That's why I came up with a simple and inexpensive solution to get a perfectly clean nozzle. All you need is a good quality silicone tube. I tested mine with a soldering iron (Weller Digital set at 250°C) and it didn't melted at all. STEP file is included in case you have a silicone tube with a different diameter.&nbsp;HINT: Someone on Facebook “Thanks Avianna!” told me she is putting a tiny bit of high smoke point oil “she is using grapeseed oil” on and around the clean nozzle. The oil does wear off after a while but you just keep a q-tip near by and a tiny bit of oil. Takes a second to apply. Lasts for days if not weeks. Makes for consistently clean prints ensures enhanced print quality with cleaner and more precise prints by repelling plastic and preventing buildup. Apply the oil at room temperature not at printing temperatures! It works like this expensive plastic repellent fluid from slice engineering. TEFLON or PTFE oil should work too. Use at your own risk. Just wanted to share this information with you guys.&nbsp;Printing:Keep it simple and print it from PETG and 15-20°C hotter than usual. PETG has very good layer adhesion and resists higher temps too. Don't print it from ASA/ABS or it will break very easily because ASA/ABS has in comparison bad layer adhesion.&nbsp;Quality Silicone Tube (200-300°C)You can find the silicone tube on amazon or if you're from germany here: <a target="_blank" href="https://schlauch24.de/Silikonschlauch-Meterware-3-mm-x-7-mm" rel="nofollow noopener">https://schlauch24.de/Silikonschlauch-Meterware-3-mm-x-7-mm</a>It is also available on aliexpress here: <a target="_blank" href="https://de.aliexpress.com/item/32608855966.html" rel="nofollow noopener">https://de.aliexpress.com/item/32608855966.html</a>&nbsp;Outer diameter = 7mmInner diameter = 3mmCut to exact length = 19mm (this length is barely touching the silicone sock from the nozzle)Cut approx. 3mm deep into the cross section, offset by 90 degrees&nbsp;Installation:Push the silicone tube down until it touches the adapter. Re-use the screw from the original wiper. I also made a thicker segment on the pin to prevent the tube from slipping off. I have also strategically positioned the pin so that the nozzle passes right through the center cleaning the nozzle perfectly. Happy printing!&nbsp;&nbsp;SILICONE TUBE CUTTING JIGI also made a simple cutting jig to easily get the correct length and cross section cuts, here: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/95952" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/95952</a>&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/765231/2023-12-16_63723a4e1d179.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Here is a short Youtube video showing how it works:<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/rk-14syxViI"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/rk-14syxViI" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure>&nbsp;

Ultimate Nozzle Wiper Bambu Lab X1 P1 P1S

Modifications 

cgoodvin

Make sure to keep it fairly thin so the hook bends nicely over the doorknob.Prints quick. An excellent print to sneak onto a doorknob quickly and efficiently.

Tools

ItemsToPrint

Modifications

Gifts