Introduction

As has happened in some of my prior designs, I don't like to limit my work only to functional objects, I always try to have them serve as a way to learn something new. With this project, you will have the opportunity to experiment with various printing techniques. Although it is a project with some challenges, it can be interesting and informative for users of all levels of experience. Beginners and intermediate users are the ones who are most likely to acquire new knowledge, thereby taking your printer's capabilities to greater levels.

Just a side note, if you permit me, for some reason people ask me what CAD software I use to design most of my projects.
So here is a time-lapse of the design work on this model being done:

What to expect from this module for the X1 and P1 models from Bambu lab:

This module was developed to offer a solution that diverges from what already exists, by aggregating some ideas that I consider to be interesting and trying to improve them. Without trying to detract from the merits of the different solutions that already exist, here is what I propose:

Install a bright, softly diffused light at the central core of the printer. In contrast to LED strips, this light will more effectively illuminate the printer's interior. This aspect is something Bambu Labs ought to enhance in future versions of their enclosed printers. At present, the lighting in the unit isn't consistently powerful enough for effective visual monitoring of the printing process.
Convection ventilation of the printer. There are already several solutions that solve this issue and that are certainly simpler, however this feature ended up presenting itself as something that could be easily added to this project. Again, in the case of closed printers, it may happen that their internal temperature may be higher than is desirable, especially in the case of materials with a lower glass transition temperature, as is the case with PLA. Although the printer has intake ventilation, it may not be enough, especially when the front door is closed, in these cases, the extra ventilation can be very helpful.
1. Some information about the materials.
2. What is Glass Transition Temperature.
Raising the height of the top glass cover addresses another issue, particularly concerning the section of the PTFE pipe that connects directly to the extruder. Some users have noted that when the pipe rubs against the glass top, it can lead to early wear and tear, and potentially even clogs in the extruder, especially if the tube bends near it. Therefore, in designing the space for the central light, I factored in this issue and increased the clearance slightly more than the existing setup. If you choose the version without the central light, you'll gain an additional clearance of about 70mm above the original height.

Influence on the inbuilt camera exposure compensation

Printing Details:

In terms of printing, what differentiates this project are two points:

The use of a different material in the support structures in some of the major parts
Print Speed
Use of translucent materials (not necessarily transparent)

1. The support structure’s

This project resorts to the use of two materials, although they are the most common, PLA and PETG, there is a characteristic they have in common that is interesting to explore. These two materials do not adhere to each other, so we can use this combination of materials in order to create parts that need support structures without major concerns regarding the removal of the supports, as well as the finishing of the contact area between the support and the part itself. With this technique, especially for members with an automatic material feeding unit (AMS), there is no need to be afraid of using supports, they can be used without fear of removing them Additionally, they will not mar the surface finish of the part in the contact area.

Dark green interface layer - completely filled and in direct contact with the part

See here some of the parts being printed:

This is a timelapse with the normal light of the printer

As mentioned before, the printer can reach high temperatures inside the enclosure, so the best is to use PETG for the production of the parts and PLA as a material to be applied in the 'interface' area of the support structure of the PETG part. That said, the glass transition temperature of these two materials (PETG and PLA) is very close, so if you choose to produce PLA parts with PETG supports, or ideally with a specific material to support PLA, (it is likely that you have received some of this with your printer (more information on the bambu lab website)), there should be no problem. However, PETG is always more flexible, and even in solid colors, it can be more translucent. There are many other differences, but these are the ones that matter for this project. To counteract the translucency of the PETG, I've used a very nice blend of PETG with Carbon Fiber, specifically, Bambu Labs PETG-CF Titan Gray

It really prints very nicely.

Important

For some reason, PLA Matte does not work as an interface layer in the supports, it creates adhesion, and the generated surfaces have many defects leading to the destruction of the part (I tried several times and always failed).
A critical factor is to not allow contamination of material between layers, i.e. PETG to enter the part or vice versa. For this, it is important that the Flushing values are always 350 or more, the use of the "Prime Tower" is also advised.

For parts that require a support structure with a PLA or PETG interface layer, you should change the following parameters on these objects:

TAB Strength

Sparce infill Pattern: Gyroid (Do not try to print in rectiliniar, at least version 1.7.7.89 will cause serious problems with the mixing of components; you can try and eventually the problem will be solved (I have already submitted a report on Github, but at the moment 14-11-2023, the problem is still not solved).

TAB Support

Enable Support: Checked
Style: It depends, but I tend to use tree supports, even if the geometry asks for normal supports on most of the parts, except the right and left spacers, this I tried tree supports but with no luck, but I've manage to have perfect result with automatic normal supports (more info here). It is important to point out that the difficulty I had with the support structure in the right_spacer and left_spacer pieces, seems to be a bug of Bambu Studio, that both in the automatic mode of creating support trees and also in the manual, vast suspended areas were left. See image:

Strange result of the automatic tree support on the current version of Bambu Studio 1.7.7.89 - result may vary on future versions.

Support/ raft interface: PLA or PETG - you choose, if the part is PETG choose PLA, if the part is PLA choose PETG)
Advanced
- Tree Support branch distance: 3mm
- Top Z distance: 0 mm
- Bottom Z distance: 0mm
- Angle: depends on the part orientation, but does not represent any major role
- Top interface spacing: 0 mm
- Top interface layer: 3 (normalmente uso 2, mas para o tipo de suporte tipo árvore, é mais seguro uma camada extra)

Separador Others

Bed Adhesion
- Brim type: No-brim, this is a thing of this project, other projects may need brim
Prime tower:
- Enable: Checked
Flush options
- Flush into objects support: Unchecked

Other parameters, are by default...

I should point out that some parts of the model were not designed to be printed with conventional support structures, that is, without resorting to a specific material for the interface layer. That said, it is also possible to print in the conventional way, the surface finish in the contact area of the supports will not be so good, in certain cases, the structures can be difficult to remove, especially when they are already on top of the model, like on the left and right spacers.

See support removal for these parts here:

2. Print speed

I was practically able to print all the parts at normal speed (100%) with the exception of the right_spacerand left_spacer, in these two cases, with the materials I used, it was necessary to reduce the speed to 50% due to the detachment of the interface layer of the support structures in a certain area.

I still don’t know why this occurred.

3. Translucent materials

In the case of icons and logos you can choose to use translucent materials, although in practice, both basic PLA and PETG let light through if the piece is not too thick or the material is super dense (like the PETG+CF I'm using, the bet is to test…, Normally, even in thick pieces, light gets through, which is the reason for using foams or black glue tape to make a blackout (more information on this below).

Printing tips for transparent PETG | Bambu Lab Wiki

Tested materials.

Front, back, right and left sides
1. Bambu Lab PETG-CF - Titan Gray
Corners and front extuded bambu lab logo
1. Bambu Lab PETG Basic - White
Interior
1. Bambu Lab PETG Basic - Blue gray

Interface Support material - This one is very important! Use normal PLA, I used the green normal PLA Basic that came with my printer. In my case, this was the material that I got the best results with. Of course you can go for a easy solution, and that's use filament specific for supporting PLA or PETG, you can find them on bambulab store:
- Support material for PLA
- Support material for PETG

Icon & Logo

Those who do not have an AMS unit, have not had any issues changing the filament manually, however for these cases I provide three configurations for the icons and for the logo

1- Deboss effect. This solution won't let light through, nor will you have color. You can find this on Start_project.3MF

The simplest solution

2 - Effect with built-in elements. This solution will not let light through, but it will have color. You can find this on Tear2_project.3MF.

You can still manage this one with the 0.4mm nozzle.

Intermediate solution, with recessed elements. This will be the most versatile, because it is visually more interesting and equally simple to print (2 material changes).

3 - Effect with detachable extruded elements. This solution (most advanced version) will let the light through. In my opinion it is more visually appealing. Also, at the project level, it is the most interesting to elaborate. . (Only available for the configuration with LED strip, at this time available for members of my club of printables.com)

Signage and lighting type logo

If you choose to use this solution (3), make sure you have a 0.2mm nozzle, that will obtain the best results for the icons. The front logo should print okay on the 0.4mm nozzle.

In this case, the front logo and the side signage, must be printed with a 0.2mm nozzle. This element is also necessary.

A little glue will help keep the inserts in place permanently (interior of the letter V, a, b).

Materials used in signage and logo:
As previously mentioned, the ideal would be to create a printing profile with a 0.2 mm nozzle for these situations
- Cold weather colors: Transparent or translucent blue (PLA or PETG)
- Colors for heat: Translucent red or orange (PLA or PETG)
- For the front logo: White (PLA or PETG).

Assemblage

This video shows a part of what needs to be done to enter the backlights for the heat and cold icons, but in the case of the example presented here you can skip this step. I was careful to include the YouTube link that jumps to the time that matter to you, but you may see these inserted elements, that I remember, are available in the version for my club members.

If you want to buy the same light I used, I leave a link here, this is what I found with a good quality-price ratio. This is an affiliate link to Amazon.

Link to the flood light - https://amzn.to/46PTS3I
Electric cable with switch - https://amzn.to/3QXL5Hn

And, the assembly of the top light

Assembly of Foam strips and glass

In this case, I've opted not to put between the module and the glass TPU, I've used a foam similiar to the one that already is on the printer.

This foam is machine cut by me, if you prefer that to the TPU, you can get it here:

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1613839161/foam-strips-for-the-x1-and-p1s-bambu

As you understand, I am not responsible for any damage or material loss that may arise from printing this project.

Lastly, a solution will be made available that turns on the light when the printer starts the printing process, however this solution will be available only to my club members on printables.com.

At this time and date, the version with the LED strip is still not available to my club members. It will be made available soon.

Nevertheless, you can put a led strip, like the one Bambulabs features on the store on the interior of the frame, and it will be great. Here it is:

The LED strip is this one (affiliated link that will help the creator and will cost you the same, thank you!)

https://shrsl.com/4df3w

And here's an affiliate link to buy filament, again it will cost you the same, and may help me a little bit. Thanks!

Filaments used on this project

Extras:

Big thanks to Romain, which was having difficulties printing with PETG on the interface layer of the supports. Here, are his notes:

And for the material and flushing

He let a comment on printables.com that some of you may not have access, so here it is all of it:

“EN :
I post my feedback on the riser by Jorge. Before to explain all details I would like to thank you for answer me and help me for own goods prints. The model is very clean. It fulfills its function of cooling (≈28-32°C open et 35°C-40° close), the light make a real plus for visibility on the timelapse, I'm waiting the rest of my filament and my led strip for have hot/cold light on both side.
Assembly :
Everything fits together nicely and without problems. It adapts perfectly on the X1C and the glass enters good in the footprint of the riser. Ventilation shutters move nicely with a small resist for keep a rigidity when they are in position.
Printing :
Come on in the main subject, the print is not complicate really but my guess it's not for all beginners. I had the unfortunate tendency to go "to fast". Left and right spacer it seemed the most complicated to print in my opinion so I start by them.
I had lot of difficulties on the print of support, 3 parts were missed... So I have decided to stop the expenses. I share you my step back which only concerns me but it can help some beginners (like me).
1 - Test of the materials, I used PETG PolyLite from PolyMaker. I did print test, Benchy, heating tower, retract tower until crash test for find limits of the material and printer.
2- Test of support with layer interface in PLA, I drew me a small part and I tested print PETG on PLA. I realized the layer interface need to be full for succed PETG hold on the part. I restart the test until have the quality of the bed !
I discovered "Flush" parameter which can drain the rest of the material which stay in the hotend for not mix PETG with PLA.
I try to make spacer again after all this test and TADAM!! The print is a succes for the firts time.
I note than I must print spacer to 50% (quiet mode) speed, I think the welding of the lines of PETG were better in slow mode.

Conclusion :
It's a very good project, it's required to the user to master different functions of BambuStudio, to know its materials and the capabilities of its printer. Thank again Jorge for your help, I go out of this project with more experience and knowledge in 3D printing! :D”

Again, Kudos to to Romain. With this settings, he did get success at first try.

Change log

15-11-2023 - Added 3MF file with colorful and opaque logos, still easy and you can manage with the 0.4 nozzle
18-11-2023 - Added to the "front spacer" one feature that was missing and that helps to fix the center light as seen in the assembly video.
29-12-1223 - A complementary version for the corners has been made available, intended for cases where the fit is deemed too tight, both with the glass and the side and front spacers. If, by chance, you notice that the corners are cracking near the dovetail, then it may make sense to try out this version (Corner_larger_gaps.3mf).

podtacky

tisky bambulab