Carl

Cherry Labs

<h2>Summary</h2>This phone/tablet stand is designed to be as universal as possible, print in place, and fold flat while being very durable. It comes in 3 sizes. Each variant is designed around its specific load.Small - 52x83x3mm - About the size of a credit card and I've been carrying one in my wallet for a few days now. This will work with any phone size. The largest I've tested is 6.3"Medium - 60x100x4mm - A stronger, more rigid variant. It can handle any phone size and I've tested it with tablets up to 9" in portrait and landscape.Large - 120x80x5mm - This is the overkill variant. I've found it to be practically unbreakable and it can handle even iPad Pro's. As you can see in the pictures, I've tested it with my 15" Macbook Pro.I've been asked a lot if I am willing to sell these and have started doing so on <a target="_blank" href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/651772961/universal-phone-tablet-stand-credit-card?utm_medium=SellerListingTools&utm_campaign=Share&utm_source=Raw&share_time=1539802739000&utm_term=so.slt/" rel="nofollow noopener">MY ETSY STORE</a>. I've made it available there in a variety of colours as well as Polycarbonate and nano diamond infused PLA.Please contact me if you would like a custom design. Custom designs are available as STL files and in any size batch production. Any custom design, (RAL++) colour and material, is of course possible.<h2>Print Settings</h2>Printer Brand: Prusa                                            Printer:                      i3 MK3&nbsp;Resolution: 0.10mm - 0.20mm                                            Infill:                      10% - 100%&nbsp;  Notes:   I recommend printing at 0.15mm layers to make sure the hinges come out correctly. It has been confirmed to work at up to 0.20mm layer height. It prints fine at lower infill but I opted to print mine with 100% infill and 5 perimeters for extra rigidity. I have only printed these with a 0.4mm nozzle and can't guarantee an easy time with larger nozzles there is at least 1 confirmed success with a 0.8mm nozzle.It has been successfully printed with a variety of PLA, ABS, NGEN, PETG and Polycarbonate filaments.<h2>Post-Printing</h2>Gently break the hinges loose. On a decently calibrated printer this requires little to no effort.This doesn't require any post processing.&nbsp;&nbsp;<h4>-------</h4>I've decided to upload my model here myself, because there have been more than a few people who tried to pass it off as their own, to get points in the rewards program.You can verify this is my model by checking out the attribution that Bambu labs themselves have listed here:https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/knowledge-sharing/Links-to-STL-models

Phone/Tablet Stand - Flat fold - Print in place!

gadget

chiz_m

If you like to show appreciation for the effort that went into creating this model, pls hit that BOOST button!<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000428579/design/2024-05-05_dee6e7b2e8872.jpg"></figure><h3>REVISION HISTORY</h3><ul><li>2024-04-21 - Multi-color profile updated for better print finish; arms split to 2 parts for better finish and easier printing; Assembly Guide updated to reflect change; rifle slightly thickened for better finish; plates now contains multiple copies of the same parts to allow skipping in the event of print failures</li><li>2024-04-19 - Added Assembly Guide PDF</li><li>2024-04-18 - Added multi-color profile</li><li>2024-04-14 - Single color profile released</li></ul><h3>OVERVIEW</h3>This is a 1/400 scale miniature (aprox. 4.5cm tall) based on Aile Strike Gundam from Gundam Seed series designed to be printed using 0.2mm nozzle.<h3>PRINTING INSTRUCTIONS</h3><ol><li>0.2 nozzle is required to print this miniature.</li><li>Print using Silent mode (50% speed) to prevent the parts from getting knocked out from adhesion.</li><li>Make sure you have your print bed clean or use glue stick to ensure proper adhesion. Pls do not rate the model low due to adhesion issues as the model contains really small parts that do not have much area to adhere to the build plate.</li><li>Parts are intentionally littered with supports to aid in bed adhesion. Be careful removing the supports and parts from the build plate as they are really small, thin parts.</li><li>To assemble the multi-color, multi-parts variant, use CA/super glue to assemble the parts.</li></ol><h3>ASSEMBLY GUIDE</h3>A PDF detailing the assembly steps is available for download. Sample pages below:<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000428579/design/2024-04-19_17397ec250854.png"></figure>

1/400 Scale Aile Strike Gundam

gundam

Garszeli

Hi All,&nbsp;I would like to present you with an extremely fun toy. Frisbee which flies so well, and soo long.Calculated special shape and weight, to generate adequate airflow and centrifugal force! Thanks to this, it flies like a professional flying disk.&nbsp;Generally, the design is for the TPU material - is more comfortable for hands to catch it (it can fly really fast). But you can also try with the PLA.

Frisbe 175g

for vacation

Filar3D

A super cool and Stylish case with a 3D printed Sliding mechanism. I use it for sunglasses, but it can be used for anything.&nbsp;Does not need supports.

Fully 3D Printed All purpose Sliding Lid Case

for Chelsea 

michelem

<figure class="image"></figure>UPDATE 05 Feb 2024:<ul><li>added 14.5mm LED size with base of 17.5mm</li></ul>UPDATE 02 Feb 2024:<ul><li>added 10mm LED size with base of 13.2mm</li></ul>UPDATE 13 Nov 2023:<ul><li>added 90° and 180° curved corners</li><li>added 8mm LED size with base of 11.8mm</li></ul>&nbsp;Hello makers,I created this model for a personal project and thought it would be helpful to share it with the community. It&#39;s a support for LED strips that could prove useful to anyone in need.&nbsp;The original project consists of a simple solid wood shelf with a square housing designed to accommodate an LED strip.&nbsp;I began with the basics: a base with an integrated guide for the LED strip. This guide allows you to secure the strip without the need for adhesives; simply slide it into the guide to keep it stable and in place.&nbsp;To attach the support to the wall or any surface (as I did in my case), you can choose between using adhesives or small screws to fit into the designated slots in the base.&nbsp;Screws must have this shape with 6mm head:&nbsp;&nbsp;<figure class="table"><table><tbody><tr><td>&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000059751/design/2023-11-08_d66bf9bcae9ce.jpeg"></figure></td><td>&nbsp;&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:51%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000059751/design/2023-11-08_bf7762b4a9d2f.jpeg"></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>&nbsp;Additionally, the base is designed with openings to reduce filament usage and provide better ventilation for the LED strip.&nbsp;I also created a diffuser with guides for easy attachment to the base.&nbsp;Finally, I included two end caps: one with a hole to pass cables to an external controller and one to completely close the opposite end.&nbsp;Printing:&nbsp;There are no specific requirements for printing the base. If your LED strip tends to overheat, I strongly recommend using a high-strength filament like ABS, ASA, or PETG. However, PLA will work well in most cases. No support is required.&nbsp;Regarding the diffusers, I recommend printing them in white (avoid transparent materials as the LEDs will be visible otherwise).&nbsp;Since they are printed with the bottom side being visible, it might be a good idea to use a textured print bed to achieve a better finish (check pictures). However, the most important aspect is to ensure that the side in contact with the print bed is perfect, without any roughness or adhesive residues.&nbsp;Formats:&nbsp;If needed, I may release the source file to make it fully parametric. For now, you can choose between two common formats:<ul><li>LED strip approximately 9 mm wide</li><li>LED strip approximately 12 mm wide</li><li>LED strip (COB) approximately 8 mm wide</li></ul>9 and 12 formats fit a 15.8 mm wide base while the 8mm has a 12mm one.&nbsp;I included also different lengths to be printed in almost any printer (150mm and 250mm), if you need intermediate length just cut it.&nbsp;Remember to get the same led size for each component, a diffuser for 9mm strip doesn&#39;t fit in the 12mm base.&nbsp;If you need different sizes, feel free to ask!&nbsp;I hope this model proves useful for your projects. Happy printing!

LED Strip Holder - Diffuser - Accessories

lighting

TheIceBurge

I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR CLOGS OR DAMAGE TO YOUR TOOLHEAD, USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!&nbsp;If you give a low rating, please explain why, what you changed (if anything), list the filament youre using, if you dried it, and how you started the print (Bambu Studio ONLY), and post pictures so I can help you.&nbsp;Dont leave a 1 star review with no explanation, thats toxic and looks bad on the profile. I do respond to everyone. If you do leave a 1 star review without listing the info in the above bold outline, I WILL report your review for removal. I dont play ignorant games.&nbsp;The other models in the pictures are not my models, I used them to test out transparency!&nbsp;This was tested on an X1C.&nbsp;Good for stained glass prints!&nbsp;You ever wanted to print glass? Well its not glass but its close enough.With this profile, you can print ICE cubes, you can also use this profile to print very transparent 3D models, but theres some rules you HAVE to follow:&nbsp;P.S. You can try using transparent colored filament as well. It wont look as transparent as clear but you can do some stuff with it. IC3D is what I use for filament, links are in the rules below. Also for A1 Series and non Bambu printers, copy the values from Bambu Studio on this profile to your slicer, or if your using Bambu Studio with A1 Series or your non Bambu printer, just copy all settings over using 2 windows.&nbsp;FOR THE NO FAN PROFILE, MAKE SURE YOUR PATTERNS ARE ALL SET TO ALIGNED RECTILINEAR! A commenter noted theirs wasnt set to aligned rectilinear when they ran the profile, which may be a Bambu issue since all my prints were done with that same profile and it was set to aligned rectilinear before I even uploaded these profiles.&nbsp;<ol><li>DO NOT RUN THIS PROFILE OFF THE BAMBU HANDY APP ON YOUR PHONE. ONLY USE BAMBU STUDIO. The Bambu Handy app cannot read custom profiles.</li><li>Restart your printer (power off for 5-10 seconds and power back on) before using this profile, ive had weird issues with the X1C deciding to put lines through the x and y axis on each layer as if the extrusion multiplier kept dropping as I continued to reprint for testing purposes even though it was set properly.</li><li>Leave ALL settings alone unless you know what youre doing. I mean this in the most literal way. I dont want you changing settings then complaining that it didnt work or it clogged on you, because the problem is on you at that point.</li><li>DO NOT SWITCH THE PRINTER PROFILE, print it as it sits on the printer its configured for, this profile will warn you that its not the right printer if youre using an X1C. Ignore the warning and print it anyway. Switching the printer profile will cause you to lose everything this profile is.</li><li>DO NOT SWITCH THE FILAMENT PROFILES, print it as it sits but select the filament you want to use to print with whether its in the AMS or stand alone.</li><li>SAVE THE PRINTER PROFILE, PRINT PROFILE, AND THE FILAMENT PROFILE as soon as you open it so you have them for later. You can name them all “ICE Profile” or “Glass Profile” or whatever you feel.</li><li>THIS IS TUNED FOR A HARDENED STEEL .4 MM NOZZLE. If youre using stainless or brass, dont complain to me if its over extruding or under extruding. Youll have to tune your extrusion multiplier yourself to get the results you want. You may also have to tune your hot end temp as well if youre not using hardened steel.</li><li>Super tiny prints like screws or bolts or very small printable areas just will not work with this profile. You have been warned. The updated profile should help with smaller models.</li><li>I used IC3D Clear Transparent filament (labelled as Natural), you can pick it up on <a target="_blank" href="https://www.ic3dprinters.com/shop/recycled-petg/" rel="nofollow noopener">IC3D&#39;s website</a> or at your local <a target="_blank" href="https://www.microcenter.com/product/644083/ic3d-175mm-natural-recycled-petg-3d-printer-filament-1kg-spool-(22-lbs)" rel="nofollow noopener">Micro Center</a> store. Other filament brands may not work with the exact extrusion multiplier that I have set. Again, no complaining if youre not using the same filament or hardware. Different filament brands and different nozzles require different settings.</li><li>Keep your chamber around 38C. Theres room for movement with this, but for the love of Bambu, DO NOT let your chamber get over 42C. The extruder motor gets insanely hot under normal conditions to the point it burns you if you touch it. 42C+ and hot extruder motor = melted filament inside the extruder body. Your extruder WILL CLOG if you dont follow this rule! Ask me how I know. Open your top glass or take it off, ams risers are great for this purpose. Leave the exhaust fan at 40% or turn it up, thats your choice. But leave it on 40% or up. And keep your front door closed to your printer. For other printers, a chamber may not be necessary, but there cant be a draft around your print.</li><li>260C on the hotend, anything above or below this temp have lower quality transparency. Ive been working on this profile for 2 months or so.</li><li>80C bed to ensure the layers melt together properly and to keep the print sealed to the bed during the whole printing process. This is necessary.</li><li>DRY YOUR FILAMENT IN A <a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Filament-S2-Printer-Dehydrator/dp/B0BM97WX1D/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=9Z5YDRGB1EGM&amp;dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.qj8bDnbbYe3NVdvffaBD_Aq0DYAe9JR5UYMC8WvMBPiNiq2cny_X4bl0DwQ8HxX-YcwrUs8sGH8Tblougn4ZzVGaLxV3i_InuRq-UkgbgsJuSBgWix83x07PEHkyoSz3ZSMM5kShlIkMcdf3us5WZmA4jO7_oSfH8czL1kJwFF4lWHBjwJGPxzqWRnIW1O3aUD_yAurX1r56etMOeUyBDcCOn1aDgVnSsfmMvuBKBr0._173YSuRcBwkDgt4eoGM65CJkVzu3flKKTvbbd2141I&amp;dib_tag=se&amp;keywords=s1%2Bfilament%2Bdryer&amp;qid=1712304995&amp;sprefix=s1%2Bfilament%2Bdryer%2Caps%2C111&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&amp;th=1" rel="nofollow noopener">FILAMENT DRYER</a> AND KEEP IT DRY! I cant stress this enough. If your filament is cloudy, its one of two things. Either your filament is wet (you didnt dry it for long enough or its not in a dryer while youre printing), or you turned on the toolhead fan too high.</li><li>DONT RUN THE TOOLHEAD FAN TOO HIGH. This will cause the filament to cool rapidly before the next layer goes on, making each layer cloudy. 0% for layer times passed 15 seconds, currently 20% for 5 second layer times.</li><li>0.1mm layer height, leave this alone for top to bottom transparency. If youre brave enough to drop it to .08mm layer height, experiment around with it. But just know that .08mm layer height clogged my extruder a couple times because the filament wasnt moving through the extruder fast enough which caused the heat from the extruder motor to melt the filament inside the extruder body. Im pretty sure I also had a nozzle clog at .08mm layer height as well. A butane torch and Allen head tool was able to get me out of that bind.</li><li>25-30mm/s. This speed is the optimal speed for perfect transparency.</li><li>PEI smooth beds, or pey or any other smooth pe style beds should work fine for glass like bottoms, dont use glue on these beds for this profile. If youre using a textured bed and complain that you cant see through it, thats your fault. Youll see through the model but not through the textured bottom. If youre using an engineering plate or a cool plate, just dont. If you do, use glue. Youll thank me later. Again if you cant see through it and you used glue, thats on you. If you for some reason are using a glass bed in these printers, which im sure is very possible, dont complain about trying to remove the print. Yea the glass bed would be perfect for a glass bottom finish, but probably a good idea to use glue for a glass bed for easy part removal.</li><li>100% infill for the best results.</li><li>NO BRIMS. these are hard enough to remove from the models as it is. With an 80C bed, brims arent necessary. Unless you have a model with the tiniest base ever, id leave brims off. Or you can use a raft which I have not set up for easy raft-to-object removal.</li><li>ALIGNED RECTILINEAR for all layer patterns is the best way for the layers to mend together properly and for the best transparency! Normal rectilinear gives you a crosshatched pattern through every single layer and you will see it. The extrusion multiplier will fill in the gaps automatically to where you wont see any pattern lines through the object youre printing.</li><li>DO NOT USE FILAMENT FLOW CALIBRATION WHEN STARTING THE PRINT! This overrides the extrusion value thats set.</li><li>Supports are off by default, but if your printing something with a large overhang or bridge, turn it on. Classic supports for small bridges and up are recommended. I havent tried tree supports on this profile so thats on you if you use it.</li><li>If you do see lines between each layer in the x and y axis, lightly step your extrusion multiplier up by .002 and do some test prints till you get it dialed in. Not every printer will work perfect because of how the extruder motors are wound up in the factory.</li></ol>This is the result of under extrusion:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000414482/design/2024-04-05_2c006beed0822.jpg">This is the result youre looking for:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000414482/design/2024-04-05_9301732ddd8f8.jpg">You might have boogers on the walls of square prints, this is normal for the extrusion multiplier thats set. Just use edge cutters and clean it up. You WILL have lines in the top surface, this is normal for the extrusion multiplier thats set. But if you have a plastic annealing oven or a butane torch, turn on ironing with the settings that are set for ironing already, and let it anneal, this should further improve your glass like finish! Ironing WILL cause boogers to form on the edges since its ironing out the extra filament thats lifted up. Using a torch is hard to do for annealing purposes, the part WILL warp as it cools and if you leave the torch on it for too long, it will start to bubble and ruin the part. For my safety and your safety on the torch method, I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR DAMAGES OR YOU BURNING YOUR HOUSE DOWN. Use safety gear, go in a well ventilated area and keep a fire extinguisher next to you during the torching process just in case. Thank you love you &lt;3&nbsp;This is what torching your top layer would look like at 5mm thick:<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000414482/design/2024-04-08_3561453eb1b9a.jpg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000414482/design/2024-04-08_986a2dc030241.jpg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000414482/design/2024-04-08_9070627af6b84.jpg"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000414482/design/2024-04-08_8cf02d09d4cd3.jpg">&nbsp;Fixed the issues that were underlined here, check out the new updated profile!&nbsp;IF THE UPDATED FAN PROFILE CAUSES PROBLEMS IN YOUR WALLS, USE THE PROFILE WITH NO FAN. THE NO FAN PROFILE FIXED A COMMENTERS ISSUE THEY WERE HAVING! BE SURE IF YOURE USING AN ENGINEERING PLATE OR COOL PLATE ON THE NO FAN PROFILE, CHANGE THE TEMPS ON THE BEDS TO 80C!

PETG Glass Profile: Print ICE Cubes X1C P1S

profiles

3DBrinumi

Inspired by so many collapsible swords and all the variations, I wanted to try a version of my own and with Easter slowly, but surely closing in, I wanted to make a Easter themed collapsible sword - and that’s how the Easter Carrot Sword came to be!&nbsp;I noticed that the more detail is added, the more likely the print is going to fail, therefore I divided this print in 3 parts: 1)  “Hilt” part - the base that the user can hold on to. 2) The collapsible “Blade” part3) The top part &nbsp;I found that while the “Blade” part requires great adhesion and testing with settings, the other two parts can be printed with default settings. Furthermore, dividing the design in this way allows multicolor print without an AMS -> way quicker print times!&nbsp;Additionally you will find 4th piece - a piece to tighten the “Blade” part in the “Hilt” part. Print Specifications:&nbsp;Blade part: Number of walls: 5Support: NOBrim: YES - inner and outer brim / 20 mm width / 0.00mm spacing from modelLayer height: 0.2 mmInfill type: noneInfill percentage: 0% Print speed: 250 mm/s Print time: 1 hour and 47 MinutesAmount of material required: ~ 22.8 m Hilt part:&nbsp;Support: NOBrim: NO Layer height: 0.2 mmInfill type: GyroidInfill percentage: 12% Print speed: 250 mm/s Print time: 2 hours and 8 MinutesAmount of material required: ~ 22.5 m&nbsp;Top part:&nbsp;Number of walls: 2Support: NOBrim: YES - inner and outer brim / 20 mm width / 0.00mm spacing from modelLayer height: 0.2 mmInfill type: GyroidInfill percentage: 12% Print speed: 250 mm/s Print time: 55 MinutesAmount of material required: ~ 5 m&nbsp;Tightening tool:&nbsp;Support: NOBrim: NO Layer height: 0.2 mmInfill type: GyroidInfill percentage: 12% Print speed: 250 mm/s Print time: 12 MinutesAmount of material required: ~ 0.7 m&nbsp; TOTAL PRINT TIME: 5 Hours and 2 Minutes TOTAL PRINT MATERIAL: ~ 51 m

Easter Carrot Sword - the expandable sword hidden in a peaceful veggy! (NO AMS required - multipart)

toys

leoax19980

I used this store everything i need for model building from the Nippers, Tamiya cement, Mrhobby, Panel Line, and others things.This model is designed with Madworks Sponge Sandpaper for the sandpaper holder.&nbsp;I will include the STEP for you to modify it to your liking.

Gundam Modelling Tool Station/Organiser

organization 

craycray

If you want to support my work, you can buy me a coffee here :)https://www.buymeacoffee.com/craycray&nbsp;When I needed to clear a jam it felt like unneccesary work to remove screws, so I added a magnetic mount instead for easy removal. Everythign else is the same, so all other remixes/attachments/extensions works as well.&nbsp;It requires 4 pieces of 3x6mm magnets, I used these:<a target="_blank" href="https://www.amazon.se/dp/B07D33PG7Y" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.amazon.se/dp/B07D33PG7Y</a>&nbsp;I've added a complete set and separate profiles for the mount only, one with the holes added and another one if you want to add holes yourself for other size magnets.&nbsp;Update 2024-01-06:Added a custom adapter with fixed angle and wider opening, if you have problem with jams or finding the right angle, use this one instead.This mount replaces the “mount + first” model, so it's an all-in-one which fits the original extension pieces.Profile name: Magnetic mount/first chute (Custom adapter) - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 10% infill&nbsp;Update 2024-01-07:Added print profiles for both the standalone mount and the all-in-one custom adapter, with support for captive magnets.&nbsp;Update 2024-01-19:Made a version 2 with a cleaner look and adjusted the angle a bit. Also removed the original “first chute” since it's a bit tricker to get the angles right. Still works with the same extensions. Far from perfect, but i'm learning :)