Dr.EmmettBrown

brody.bolanos

<p><strong>Bambu Lab PTFE Connector (6/8/2023)</strong></p><p>Designed PTFE connectors for Bambu Lab printers. There are two types of connectors, one that's compatible with AMS and another one that won't work with AMS. The AMS version is designed to push the tubes into each other, creating a gapless connection that allows the filament to easily slide past the connection joint. The other version is designed to be quicker to use ( aimed at users without the AMS) but also creates a small gap between the tubes which could cause the filament to get stuck when the AMS pushes it through. </p><p>During testing, I noticed small variation with the PTFE tube diameter ( not cut perfectly, used vs new, etc.) so I also included 4 adapters with slightly different sizes and a case that will hold all of the attachments. Instruction below will explain more in detail. </p><p>&nbsp;</p><blockquote><h3>Files</h3></blockquote><p><strong>Main Files</strong></p><ol><li>Insert Holder Case</li><li>Insert Options</li><li>Logo Insert for Case</li><li>PTFE AMS Clip Lock</li><li>PTFE AMS Connector</li><li>PTFE Standard Clip Lock</li><li>PTFE Standard Connector</li></ol><p><strong>Print Files</strong></p><ol><li>Print File</li></ol><blockquote><h3><strong>Printing Preview</strong></h3></blockquote><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/user/2673040638/draft/2023-09-27_xna5h1zidc09.png"></figure><blockquote><h3><strong>Print Settings</strong></h3></blockquote><p><strong>Normal PLA could break ( I haven't tried though) but please use PETG, ASA, PLA+ , etc. </strong></p><p>I used Polylite Pro PLA+</p><p><strong>Set your K calibration and adjust setting based on your filament </strong></p><p><strong>Quality</strong></p><ul><li>Please see build plate file. </li></ul><p><strong>Support</strong> </p><ul><li>Please see build plate file. </li></ul><p><strong>Other</strong></p><ul><li>Bed adhesion - use brim if you're having adhesion issues, its already configured in the print file so please go over the settings first. </li></ul><blockquote><h3>Assembly</h3></blockquote><ul><li>Once printed everything is stored like this ( minus the additional case).</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/user/2673040638/draft/2023-09-27_ovse2fe8qdmz.jpg"></figure><ul><li>The numbers on the case and print file refer to a small  chamfer at the top of the inserts, the smaller the number the tighter the fit with the exception of .2 ( .2 was designed first and was the best fit for most PTFE tubes I tried, during testing I realized some tubes were too tight or loose so I created the other 3 sizes.  .2 also has a slightly different angle on the chamfer so  .2 does not = loosest fit. <ul><li>.115 will be the tightest fit and .135 will be the loosest. <ul><li>.2 fit the majority of the time followed by .125.</li></ul></li></ul></li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:27.58%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/user/2673040638/draft/2023-09-27_tmymsx46xeb1.png"></figure><h3>Non-AMS Assembly </h3><ul><li>Insert the insert clips all the way in<ul><li>Then push the tubes in until they hit a stop. </li></ul></li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/user/2673040638/draft/2023-09-27_y7g84exzmdv3.jpg"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><ul><li>Pull the inserts outwards, this will allow the insert to clamp down on the tubes.<ul><li>If the tubes are too loose or its extremely difficult to pull out the inserts , try a different size. </li></ul></li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/user/2673040638/draft/2023-09-27_55qs6z4olfuj.jpg"></figure><ul><li>If everything is snug, add the clips. The clips will make sure the inserts stay in position<ul><li>To remove the tubes, take the clips off and push the inserts back towards the center and the tube should come out easily. </li></ul></li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/user/2673040638/draft/2023-09-27_mwrr4jqfdqco.jpg"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><h3><strong>AMS Assembly </strong></h3><ul><li>First add the inserts, then add the clips.<ul><li>The clips are only used to keep the inserts in the correct position. If the inserts are all the way in or too far out, it'll be difficult to push the tubes in. The clips aren't neccesary but it'll make it easier. </li><li>Add the tubes</li></ul></li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/user/2673040638/draft/2023-09-27_ze00pirykcea.jpg"></figure><ul><li>The tubes should be pushed in until you barely see them in the window</li></ul><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/user/2673040638/draft/2023-09-27_kko51vj8rz8p.jpg"></figure><ul><li>Remove the clips and push both inserts inwards, both tubes should end up flush against each other. If they don't, just readjust how far in they initially started <ul><li>Again if the tubes are too lose or its too difficult to push the inserts in, try a different size insert. </li></ul></li></ul><p>&nbsp;</p><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/user/2673040638/draft/2023-09-27_o555o6zc3obp.jpg"></figure><ul><li>Lasty, add the AMS clip lock.<ul><li>The lock prevents the clips from moving outwards and also seals/covers up the window </li></ul></li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/user/2673040638/draft/2023-09-27_d87gl4xk0j90.jpg"></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><blockquote><h3>Section Views </h3></blockquote><ul><li><strong>Non AMS Connector</strong></li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/user/2673040638/draft/2023-09-27_afl29tw9a43f.png"></figure><ul><li><strong>AMS Connector</strong></li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/user/2673040638/draft/2023-09-27_70o8dxym23h3.png"></figure><p>That's all! </p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>If you like my designs and want to say thanks, you can buy me a coffee and help fund the filaments I need for prototyping. A donation of any amount to <a href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/brodyB" rel="nofollow">Buy Me a Coffee</a> or  <a href="https://paypal.me/brodyb10?country.x=US&locale.x=en_US" rel="nofollow">PayPal</a> would be greatly appreciated!</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><i>As always, given different printing environments, filaments, etc.,  prints may not work perfectly for everyone. If you are having issues please message or comment and I will try my best to resolve the issue.</i></p>

Bambu Lab PTFE Connector

Tools

PS11-Print

<p>Ich habe jetzt mal Inlays für die Schubladen meines AMS-Standes gezeichne damit auch alles aufgeräumt werden kann.</p><p>Die Nozzles habe ich stehend gedruckt und ohne support klappt wunderbar :-)</p><p>&nbsp;</p>

AMS-Stand-Inlays

Maleko

<h2>The Nozzle Wiper V3.1</h2><p>I have designed this new nozzle wiper for my 4 X1C. The original wiper isn&#39;t effective and when I got my A1 I saw how great the A1 wiper was so I decided to adapt an A1 wiper to my X1C.</p><p>This is the third version, fixing each problem version by version. This solution cost me less than $1 and now my nozzle is always clean, which reduces defects on my prints.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>I have tested this wiper for over 80 hours of printing without any problems, I printed mine with Bambulab PC as I use a lot of high end filament that requires an active heat chamber.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>The A1 wiper is available in the official Bambulab store at an affordable price.</p><h3><span style="color:rgb(225,71,71);">⚠️ Use a material that can handle the heat, like at least PETG.</span></h3><h3><span style="color:rgb(225,71,71);">⚠️ <strong>Use my print profile marked as designer to make sure you are using the latest version of this model.</strong></span></h3><h3>INSTALLATION:</h3><ol><li>Remove the screw holding the original wiper - Using the larger allen key.</li><li>Cut an A1 silicone wiper, counting to get 4 rows, and install it on top of the new wiper, I recommend removing the double sided tape and using CA glue.</li><li>Remove one or both of the purge chute screws located at the top of it - Using the smaller allen key.</li><li>Insert the part, the back first and press the front to fit into the purge chute and screw the 2 screws back into place.</li></ol><h3><strong>UPDATES:</strong></h3><p><strong>3.1: </strong><span style="background-color:rgb(255,255,255);font-size:14px;"><strong>2024-04-26 </strong></span><span style="color:#E14747;"><strong>Latest 🎉</strong></span></p><ul><li>Added more clearance (0.5mm) to the build plate due to a problem with the non-Bambulab plate touching the wipers.</li></ul><p><strong>3.0:  </strong><span style="background-color:rgb(255,255,255);font-size:14px;"><strong>2024-04-20</strong></span></p><ul><li>With the previous version, people had problems with mounting due to differences between printers and filament calibration. The print is now fixed with one or two screws from the purge chute. This makes it more stable on the purge chute.</li><li>I changed some of the structural parts of this new version to make it stiffer and less prone to deformation when the chamber heats up.</li><li>This new release fixes a purge issue after the first layer inspection (X1C) where the toolhead would purge on top of the wiper.</li><li>I had a problem with the screw holding the original wiper, the screw didn&#39;t provide enough support, so I decided to design a new way of holding the wiper.</li></ul><h3><strong>BENEFITS:</strong></h3><ul><li>No Brims</li><li>Designed for FDM Printing</li><li>Smooth Operation</li><li>Clean nozzle</li><li>Tight Fit</li><li>Hold by screw</li><li>No additional part needed</li></ul>

Tools

AMS

X1c