Dethkill on tiktok

RTX_Nitrox

Immerse yourself in the world of tactical operations with our meticulously crafted 3D-printed Glock 19 replica, complete with a silencer for added realism. Designed for enthusiasts and collectors&nbsp;Authentic Design: Our Glock 19 replica faithfully reproduces the iconic design and intricate features of the original firearm, ensuring a visually stunning and true-to-life replica.Interchangeable Magazine: Enjoy added versatility with a removable magazine that allows you to simulate reloading, providing a dynamic training experience or adding authenticity to your display.Moving Trigger: Enhance your immersion with a movable trigger, offering a tactile sensation and adding realism to your handling of the replica.&nbsp;

Glock 19 v6 movable trigger and Slide

need to print

Neighmo

Koozie for regular soda cans. I am sure it will fit normal 12oz Coke, Pepsi, Sprite, Fanta, Bud Light, Stella, and other cans.

Knurled Regular Can Koozie 12oz

can koozie

Mack Stuff

Some simple stakes I made for planting my new seedlings. I may create more as needed or requested. Dimensions are 25mm x 180mm x 3mm (the pointed part is 60mm long).Current files available:<ul><li>Peppers</li><li>Tomato</li><li>Spinach</li><li>Cucumber</li><li>Basil</li><li>Cilantro</li><li>Lettuce</li><li>Radish</li><li>Beans</li><li>Carrot</li><li>Rosemary - NEW</li><li>Thyme - NEW</li><li>Sage - NEW</li><li>Chives - NEW</li><li>Oregano - NEW</li></ul>French versions<ul><li>Poivrons</li><li>Tomate</li><li>Epinard</li><li>Concombre</li><li>Basilic</li><li>Coriandre</li><li>Laitue</li><li>Radis</li><li>Haricots</li><li>Carotte</li><li>Romarin - NEW</li><li>Thym - NEW</li><li>Sauge - NEW</li><li>Ciboulette - NEW</li><li>Origan - NEW</li></ul>German versions<ul><li>Basilikum</li><li>Bohnen</li><li>Gurke</li><li>Karotten</li><li>Koriander</li><li>Paprika</li><li>Rettich</li><li>Salat</li><li>Spinat</li><li>Tomate</li><li>Rosmarin - NEW</li><li>Thymian - NEW</li><li>Salbei - NEW</li><li>Schnittlauch - NEW</li><li>Origano - NEW</li></ul>

Garden Stakes (English, French, and German)

garden 

wazza10

Little articulated bone dragon, can function as a key ring. It is printed in one piece and without the use of supports. If you have trouble keeping the printout on the bed, use brim.

Little articulated bone dragon

a1 mini

Mattias

PET bottle bird feeder to hang in your garden for the birds, preferably during winter. Fill the bottle with bird seeds of your choice and just screw this print to it and hang the bottle with the bottom side up. All birds will thank you. &nbsp;I used PLA but you can use any material you like for outdoor use.

PET bottle bird feeder

garden

unbeatable215

Dragons are mythical creatures that are often portrayed as large, reptilian beasts with wings, sharp claws, and a long tail. They are known for their incredible strength, fierce temperament, and ability to breathe fire or other elements such as ice or lightning. Dragons are often depicted as hoarding treasure or guarding a specific location, such as a castle or cave. They feature prominently in folklore and fantasy literature, and have become a popular symbol in popular culture.

spiny articulated dragon by AllAndMore3D

dragon

Memel Magic

Now including the HD remake with a new look.

ChibiGrim on Skulls include HD version

skulls

fana

&#34;One must imagine Sisyphus calibrating&#34;&nbsp;This is the result of a nightmare i had (might have to take a break from printing)&nbsp;Used AMT_industrieses Sisyphus model did some mesh rework, combined all the elements to a slope and voila!&nbsp;Planning on making a version without the benchy so you can use it a display for any of your lovely boats.&nbsp;&nbsp;

Sisyphus Benchy

benchy

Disttrack3D

Bag carrier easy to print and convenient to use. It helps you carry your shopping bags much more comfortably.

Bag carrier

tools

FlorinV

Please post your makes and/or rate the model. I would really appreciate it. Thank you !<ul><li>One plate print, easy to put together.</li><li>Two models: winter version with snowflake and summer version with pine cone.</li><li>Print it in 3 colors if you wish, or one color.</li><li>Dimensions: 127mm Length x 66mm Width x 110mm Height.</li></ul>

Table Napkin support/holder (2 models)

deer

Troysterr

<h2>Summary</h2><a target="_blank" href="https://a360.co/3NFUsIE" rel="nofollow noopener">Full 3D View</a>This model is inspired by the 1932 Ford Model B pickup truck.The wheelbase of this model is about 1/8" shorter than the standard and may not be eligible for some races.As with all of my builds, I'm not good enough at Fusion 360 to create a faithful replica, but I tried to capture most of the key elements.<h3>What is a "pinewood derby car shell"?</h3>A <a target="_blank" href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pinewood_derby" rel="nofollow noopener">pinewood derby</a> is an event created by the Boy Scouts many years ago. Each scout is given a pinewood derby kit typically consisting of a block of wood with slots for axles, 4 wheels, and 4 nails to be used as axles. The scout (and his dad, usually) will then carve the block of wood into the shape of a car, paint it and apply stickers, install the wheels on the axles, and then race it at the "derby", which involves a sloped track with a timekeeping apparatus.An official scout derby will usually require that the parts in the kit be used for cars entered in the derby. Other organizations (including workplaces) often hold derbies, too, and some of them require the use of the parts in the box, including the block of wood.These "pinewood derby car shells" are intended to be used with an official derby wood block, cut down to size, along with the axles and wheels included in the kit. A printable model of the shaped wood block is provided. You can either use the printed model or use it to accurately cut an official wood block down to size.<h3>Notes: </h3><ul><li>Body and bed: Supports are required. You can choose to print "Body.stl" and "Bed.stl" and add your own rafts, or you can print "Body with Minirafts" and "Bed with Minirafts" for a minimal raft-like surface that will aid in keeping the supports adhered to the build surface.</li><li>Windshield and windows: I printed these using clear PETG. I printed the windshield using standard settings, flat on the print bed. The other windows I printed upright in vase mode, using the STL files with "minirafts" and supports. They could also just be printed flat and would probably look about the same. Black would also probably look good.</li><li>Wheels: The wheels provided are for show only. They have "minirafts" included. Supports should be added between the miniraft and the wheel.</li><li>Tires: For the show tires, I printed most of the tires using black, then paused the printer once it got to the last few layers and swapped the filament out for white.</li><li>If you print the "Shaped Block.stl", print it upside-down. That will ensure that the axle slots print correctly.</li><li>Everything else is pretty simple and straightforward to print, with minimal or no supports/rafts/brims.</li></ul><h2>Post-Printing</h2><h3>Smoothing</h3>This car was smoothed with 3d printing resin and baby powder. You can find videos and guides online that describe the process, but here it is in a nutshell:<ul><li>Mix 1 part resin and 2-3 parts baby powder in an opaque container (so that it can be stored without hardening due to UV exposure).</li><li>Using a paintbrush or cotton swab, spread a thin layer of the resin/baby powder mix over the body, wherever you want to smooth print lines and gaps.</li><li>Use a UV flashlight (a cheap one--like the kind used to harden resin finger nail polish, which you can order from Amazon or buy in the pharmacy department of Walmart) to harden the resin.</li><li>Sand the body smooth until there are no thick layers left.</li><li>Repeat over any areas that are still rough.</li></ul>This model is designed to drop on an official wood block carved in the shape of "Shaped Block.stl". The wheel slots are slightly closer together than on the standard block, though, so you'll need to cut a new wheel axle slot. Or just use the 3D printed block if your derby allows it.

1932 Ford Model B Truck (Pinewood Derby Car Shell)

cars

Imaginarydave

<h2>Designing this took weeks of work and testing.   Your boosts are an appreciated form of thanks </h2>&nbsp;Update: I added a mirrored version of the bases and the manifold for those that want to mounth this somewhere other than on the printer or for those with a k1 max.&nbsp;Update #2: Enclosure file is up! check it out over at. <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/105490#profileId-112584" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/105490#profileId-112584</a><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000089050/design/2023-12-23_b2f1da0f06987.jpg">Update 3: changed print profile to use glued dowels to hold the two parts together.  I think this will sove the most common problem of getting things to line up.  &nbsp;This solved my biggest beef with day to day use of the printer……. changing filaments. &nbsp; I had a few goals.<ol><li>Be able to load filaments from the front.</li><li>Be able to leave my regularly used filaments in place</li><li>Have a place to hold filament when not in use to keep it from unrolling (you cant see it but there is holder behind each loading spot on the manifold.</li><li>be quiet - ie no rubbing.</li></ol>You&#39;re gonna need a few parts<ul><li>I used 4mm OD, 3mm ID PTFE tube to try to reduce friction. I ordered this stuff. <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/46UgvDl" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/46UgvDl</a> (bambu labs 4mm/2.5mm should work but you will definitely need to bevel entry points.)</li><li>PTFE tube connector. I used the Bambu labs one <a target="_blank" href="https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/ptfe-tube-connector" rel="nofollow noopener">https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/ptfe-tube-connector</a> you could also use one of these from amazon <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/3RLyR5f" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/3RLyR5f</a> . alternatively you could use a single piece of tubing that runs all the way from the extruder to the manifold but I wanted the option to disconnect at the machine.</li><li>8mm x300mm rod. <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/3RAq5qj" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/3RAq5qj</a> alternative link: https://amzn.to/47hFPmF</li><li>M10 push connector for PTFE tubing. I used these <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/3TcCwKm" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/3TcCwKm</a></li><li>M3 Heat set threaded inserts. I used ones from this kit. <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/4a8hv9L" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/4a8hv9L</a> but you could just buy M3 size which is the size I use the most for projects like these. <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/3NksT8C" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/3NksT8C</a></li><li>Sixteen 608-zz bearings. I use these. <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/4afBenR" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/4afBenR</a></li><li>M3 screws. I think I used mostly 10mm, but if you dont have a huge assortment of these already you should so get a variety and figure it out!</li><li>nylon washers I used ones from this kit. <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/41hQDQz" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/41hQDQz</a> 1.5mm thick. but I will also include an .stl file. you should be able to print them.</li><li>I used non slip glass top pads that I had around the house to keep it from sliding around. I am sure many different things could be used. These are what I use and it wont slide at all. <a target="_blank" href="https://amzn.to/3Njf5uU" rel="nofollow noopener">https://amzn.to/3Njf5uU</a></li></ul>How to do it…. you have to be detail oriented and if you skip any steps or have any rubbing it will cause problems.<ol><li>Print bodies as indicated in file notes.</li><li>While they are printing soak the bearings in denatured alcohol overnight, dry them out and the relube with a light oil like 3 in 1 oil or I used sewing machine oil. you need the bearing to spin like you would want them for a fidget spinner.</li><li>Heat sink the threaded inserts into the holes on the front of the bases.</li><li>using CA glue connect the bases together using the dowels.</li><li>Screw the manifold to the front</li><li>Fit TPU bearing covers over the bearings.</li><li>The fun part…… slowly fish the rods from right to left inserting washers and bearings as you go. there should be a washer on each side. this keeps bearings and rolls from rubbing the sides. The left side of each roller space should have the beveled bearing covers with the sharp edge to the left. in cross section it should look like this. The orientation of bearings on the right doesnt matter. Once they are all in make sure the TPU covers area aligned and not rubbing. they should spin freely.  <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000089050/design/92598ce5-25e7-4f56-b434-f6b64c34c06a.png"> <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000089050/design/d7e3122b-9a0d-4954-ab71-f1540a11ec56.png">  </li><li>once you have all 8 pieces through put screw the cover on to hold the rod in place - if you are printing the enclosure you can just leave them off the enclosure will keep the rods from coming out. </li><li>Assemble the manifold.<ol><li>cut 4 pieces of PTFE tube perfectly square and long enough to leave about 2-3 cm sticking out from the top of each loading point. seat them all the way.</li><li>screw the PTFE M10 connector into the manifold.  <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000089050/design/32e3f901-4987-49f4-bd7e-86cf8341156a.png"></li></ol></li><li>Place a coupler on the end of the PTFE tube coming out of the machine and attach PTFE tubing from that point, through the holders to the manifold.  <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000089050/design/24be0f7d-c06b-4884-9157-b27d22c1ccd5.jpg"></li><li>PRINT AWAY  </li></ol>&nbsp;&nbsp;EDIT:&nbsp;DrHO1337 over at printables has some code on his model (found here <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/621741-bambu-lab-manual-material-system" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/model/621741-bambu-lab-manual-material-system</a> ) that might make material changes easier for people who want to do simple prints with multiple colors. This model was initially just made for use with single color prints. give it a try. I havent used it. and give the guy a thumbs up over there.&nbsp;here are his instructions:In order to use the slicer correctly, like an AMS, you have to change the filamentchange gcode in the printer settings. The corresponding g-code is in &#34;noAMS.txt&#34;.  <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000089050/design/704c2202-1f8e-45e8-8cc8-147f0697874d.webp">  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

Bambu Labs MMS (Manual Material System)

BAMBU STUFF

Bedlam Threadz

UPDATE: I have uploaded a profile with the model for a square frame lock that fits this frame as per a request. This is really only necessary if you have thinner prints that bow using the original locks.&nbsp;Please use my print profile as the frame locks have a tight tolerance and results may be problematic otherwise.&nbsp;This frame is completely custom designed to hold most 200x200 Hueforge prints of varying depths. It should hold prints up to 6mm, which is far deeper than most prints. The frame locks have a nice tight fit to hold the prints of varying depths. This model is completely designed by me for the purpose of retailing my Hueforge prints, which I am constantly updating on my <a href="www.bedlam3dz.com" rel="nofollow">Website</a>, and is strictly for personal use. If you would like to resell this model check out my club on Printables. &nbsp;This frame will perfectly fit all models I upload, and the vast majority of 200x200mm prints that others have shared. The hanger cutout is made so that prints with lob sided weight can be adjusted by using the teeth to easily level it. The frame is printed face down for a nice finish. Your plate type will determine the type of finish on the front side of the frame. I have used the gold textured plate that comes with the P1S in the attached photos.&nbsp;PRINT and ASSEMBLY:&nbsp;No supports needed. 0.16 Optimal layer height has provided the cleanest prints, especially the sides of the frame.Print both plates. 1 frame and two locks.Place the frame face down on a surface that will not scratch it.Orient your print face down so that the top aligns with the wall hanger cutout and insert it into the frame.Insert one frame lock at a time and make sure you are pushing both ends in evenly. If you try to push one side at a time it will bind up. If you push one side in too far compared to the opposite side just flip it over and push it back out and retry until it is in properly.It is a simple process and everyone that does not require a caution label on their coffee should breeze through it.&nbsp;

need to print

can koozie

garden

a1 mini

garden

dragon

skulls

benchy

tools

deer

cars

BAMBU STUFF

other things to print