Destiny

Nils Kal

<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/377912/2023-08-24_d8isth83q5cb.png" alt="NK"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/377912/2023-08-24_jeh5ijkl8akh.png" alt="banner"></figure> I'm currently playing death stranding on my PC and came up with the idea of recreating the „Odradek“ scanner as a desk light so I'd like to present you the "Desk Stranding" lamp (thanks to reddit user u/Typh_R who came up with the name). This is one of my biggest projects so far with a total of 37 parts needed (30 individual parts). I only used screenshots to recreate the original look as close as possible with keeping the printability in mind. I ended up with 4 different .3mf's, divided into their color style. All parts won't require any supports and you also won't need an MMU for this project, all color changes are layer based. There is a bit of assembly required, you'll find everything that's needed below!You can also use this as a cosplay prop if you are using batteries or a powerbank as the power source, there is still some space inside the main body for small power sources. All parts are labeled with a version number so you can easily detect any future changes! <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/377912/2023-08-24_rb1gk5guxth2.png" alt="Manual"></figure> &nbsp;Note: Two lights are flipped in some pictures, the final version has got the correct original look!<h3> </h3>&nbsp; Features:<ul><li>Fully FDM compatible with no supports needed</li><li>On/off switch</li><li>Invisible wiring (wire channels through the hinges)</li><li>All lights are fully adjustable</li></ul> Hardware needed:<ul><li>0.25mm² wires (About 2 meters red and black)</li><li>Switch (21x15mm [punch hole is 13x20], standard size, like <a target="_blank" href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32921026422.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.1c5313ce9bHl4M&algo_pvid=6a672913-6609-4980-9225-2778fcda0396&algo_expid=6a672913-6609-4980-9225-2778fcda0396-35&btsid=f061563d-0e5d-4e64-9179-2874cbf4c177&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_6,searchweb201603_55" rel="nofollow noopener">this</a>)</li><li>Soldering tools</li><li>LED Strips</li><li>1x LED Diode Blue</li><li>Power Source</li><li>10x M3x4 Screw</li><li>15x M3x12 Screw</li><li>5x M3x20 Screw</li><li>21x M3 Nut</li><li>5x M4x20 Screw</li><li>5x M4 Nut</li></ul> Installation guide: <figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/377912/2023-08-24_1zgcvcaj35py.jpg" alt="Qries"></figure>Click <a target="_blank" href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xE0kxJmfiwEKIVhW-_Ozk4rUgfkIppxT/view?usp=sharing" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a> for a detailed instruction manual (pdf file). This design is still subject to change so check back again for updates (I already made some changes after taking the pictures so they might differ from the printed version).Have fun with the lamp! As bonus, here is a little stop motion animation from the lamp in action:<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/377912/2023-08-24_sl2qsjg41wfo.gif" alt="Buddy"></figure> +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ &nbsp;If you like this file or need some adjustments feel free to leave a comment. A rating or tip is also welcome and may check out my other designs! Happy printing!&nbsp; <figure class="image image_resized" style="width:7.73%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/377912/2023-08-24_y0rwyb5nz7o3.png" alt="NK"></figure><h3>Print instructions</h3><ul><li>All parts are optimized for FDM printing.</li><li>Please use a 0.4mm nozzle (or smaller).</li><li>I advise to use the .3mf (or gcode) files, as all parts are already aligned and ready to print. However, I’ve provided all .stl files as well!</li><li>Print in PETG for better durability</li></ul>&nbsp;&nbsp;This work is licensed under the 'Creative Commons NonCommercial' license. Please do not sell any physical or digital copies of it.

Desk Stranding - The Death Stranding Desk Lamp

装饰

Adam L

Note to printables staff : this is NOT a remix of a different model that doesn’t allow remixes, it is an original design of my own making where I invested significant effort. As proof, I am including the Fusion360 CAD files here to prove my design is original from scratch and not a “remix” of that model. It is only a remix of my OWN model. I do respect licenses of others. Note to everyone else: Now includes Fusion360 Model (because reasons.. ) !&nbsp;Some people suggested that they would prefer to use a toothbrush or brass bristle brush to clean their threads instead of the parent <a href="https://www.printables.com/model/476890-super-screw-scrubber-a-sensational-solution-for-sp/remixes" rel="nofollow">Super Screw Scrubber </a>design with paper towel. For them, I've designed this alternative version of the scrubber that lets you slap on a cut-off toothbrush or brass bristle brush or similar and glue it onto the guide. This simple but effective modification lets you get a deeper clean with a longer reach!This version is the more reliable tapered version from the parent that should reduce any first layer print issues. Since the brush bristles are the key to cleaning in this version, the exact tightness of the threads is less important.<h4>Versions</h4><ul><li>DefaultSize (Recommended)</li><li>ShortBrush - if you have a brush that's not quite long enough to comfortably reach, this offers a closer spacing of the flat part to the lead screw by ~ 4 mm. </li></ul>&nbsp;<h3>Print Instructions (same as parent)</h3><ul><li>Print at high layer resolution, I recommend 0.1 or 0.08 if possible on your printer, so that the threads fit nicely. There are slight tolerances built into the thread design so that it should clamp nicely.</li><li>Most filaments should be fine.. but I would avoid anything like carbon fiber or glow in the dark filament to avoid any scratching of the screws (though most are made of steel that probably would not scratch anyways).</li><li>Orient the flat side down. I designed the part slightly asymmetrically so this is intentionally hard to screw up when placing on your bed :).</li></ul><h3>Use instructions </h3><ul><li>Find an old toothbrush or brass bristle brush, cut off the head. Use hot glue (recommended) or some other suitable glue to attach the head to the flat section as shown in the pictures.</li><li>Attach the clamp and brush to your lead screws as shown.. run the bed up and down (make the screws rotate), and hold the clamp in place as you do so.</li><li>Remove the widget, and clean the gunk off (can just rinse with IPA and/or acetone for most greases).</li><li>Re-grease your threads if you stripped all the grease off.</li></ul>&nbsp;<ul><li>Don't use as a regular toothbrush anymore, the ADA has informed me this is not an approved dental product after this modification :). <img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/477870/rich_content/50fb1bab-9bd4-4c1c-b9c8-59d26d9d371c/image.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%222da5821e-19c2-4860-832f-116d5b83b985%22%2C%22w%22%3A652%2C%22h%22%3A600%7D"></li></ul>&nbsp;3MF & STEP file included!

Super Screw Scrubber: A Sensational Solution for Sparkling Screws (Brushy Edition)

配件

Rilot Designs

I needed to measure a dimention that was inside a lip. Unfortunately I didn't have a micrometer. What I did have was a digital caliper, Fusion 360 and a 3D printer.They will clip on to most calipers you can buy on 'tinterweb (I have 3 different types and they all seem to have the same jaws).

Calliper extensions for more precise measurement of thicknesses

工具

Vergil

<blockquote>2023-10-02 Update!I've updated the Lid frame & Complete Lid files thanks to the feedback. I know it's funny to do an update on a literal bin, but here we go I guess!<ol><li>The update adds a small retainer radius for the trap door so it doesn't fall out by itself anymore. You can still “force remove” it, but if you clip it back it actually stays put now. </li><li>I've also increased the height of the inner wall so it sits more securely in the bin. Adds a tiny bit of material but it feels more roboust.</li></ol>Important to note: You don't need to print out the whole complete Lid assembly again! If you already have the parts you just need the frame! I've added a profile just for that and replaced the lid assembly with R2. Old files are removed as of now.&nbsp;<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/60098/2023-10-02_7649a13ad0209.png"></figure></blockquote>&nbsp;&nbsp;Bin dimensions: 100x100x115 mm so it fits quite a bit of mess before needing to be emptied.---The Bin can be used by itself and should be printed in Vase mode. It's a solid model. I highly suggest using the following settings (if not the project files are used):<ul><li>Line/wall width: 0.8 mm</li><li>First layer width: 0.8 mm</li><li>Bottom layers: at least 3</li><li>Layer height: 0.2 mm (text looks better with 0.16, otherwise doesn't matter much)</li></ul>I uploaded the .3mf files with the settings. You can change the material etc… but it contains the 0.8 settings for thicker walls. You can print it fine with the default 0.4 Nozzle. Makes the Bin a lot more rigid but still print fast. I used Fillamentum's Crystal Clear PLA to print it with basically the generic PLA settings.Print time: ~1h26m with 0.2 layers Material: 46 g---The Complete Lid consists of 2 parts. You can print them together at once and move the trapdoor a little to release them after printing. Or if you want to mix up the colors without AMS, I added them separately as well. Uploaded the .3mf file for this one too. Generally this part is not that picky for settings, but here's a few suggestions:<ul><li>Print with the text facing the build plate</li><li>Bottom layers: 3-4</li><li>Top layers 2-3</li><li>Textured PEI plate for nice look</li><li>10% Grid infill at least so the lid has some weight to close itself, you can use combine infill option to save a little time</li></ul>Print time: ~37m with 0.2 layers Material: 26 gYou can remove the trapdoor if it annoys you flapping around. The frame alone gives a nice touch too if you print in a different color than the base.

Plastic Waste Bin

盒子

fay3dlab

Since my suspended millenium falcon was such a hit.. i was motivated to make more of them..This time i made the Suspended Imperial Star Destroyer.. the ship itself is modelled by nikoli2803 from thingerverse.. the circular frame is the imperial logo itself.. the whole frame i modelled it to look like the deathstar.. everything was done using Tinkercad.. The print comes in 5 parts..<ol><li>front ship</li><li>back ship</li><li>bottom clip</li><li>top left clip</li><li>top right clip</li></ol>The ship itself comes in 2 parts.. front and back.. and there are 3 clips to hold both side of the ship together.. the bottom clip will be the stand for the whole suspended star destroyer and the 2 clips works on any side..Its a bit tricky to assemble since you cant put both parts of the ship down since its suspended on the strings..<ul><li>so my suggestion is to put the bottom clip down on a table and then put the 2 parts into the clip..</li><li>it should fit snuggly together..</li><li>once the frame can stand on its own.. you can put the other 2 clips onto the frame..</li></ul>*UPDATE*I just made a new updated V2 of the suspended star destroyer.. with adding channel for LED light strips.. <img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/516824/2024-01-01_bdc509315a0c2.gif">you can download the new version here: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/117449#profileId-126250" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/117449#profileId-126250</a>&nbsp;When printing suspended models.. one important thing to remember is to set the wall generator to arachne from classic.. this will make the slicer print the strings..I hope you guys have fun printing this suspended imperial star destroyer..

装饰

配件

工具

盒子

模型