Dennis527

Justin Yu

This is a remix of the original HSW located here: <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/16011#profileId-15092" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/16011#profileId-15092</a>&nbsp;This includes all the parts needed to make a fully functional honeycomb storage wall&nbsp;I also included paint holders that should fit anywhere between 20mm bottles up to 35 mm bottles&nbsp;A fun yet functional print

Honeycomb Storage Wall The Complete Edition

HSW wall and stuff

Mikos Print World

Parametric Duct adapter/reducer. It can be resized to your liking.

Parametric Duct Adapter/Reducer

Tools

mystoopidstuff

<h2>UPDATE 4/6/2024:  There is an updated Version 2.1 of this model, which uses filament hinges.  I recommend trying the filament hinge model over this version, since it is much easier to assemble.  You can find the updated version at the link below:</h2><h2><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/416342" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/416342</a></h2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;This is a remix of <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/732655-gridfinity-boxes-for-gridfinity-box-for-stuff-20-b" rel="nofollow noopener">Ch3vr0n&#39;s 6 compartment Gridfinity bin</a>, which adds some covers to the 4x1 bin with 6 slots. Thanks to <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@Ch3vr0n_247401" rel="nofollow noopener">Ch3vr0n</a> for the 6 bin design, and for the feedback on this design, which helped to improve it!&nbsp;This model is designed to work with the <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/159840" rel="nofollow noopener">Gridfinity Box For Stuff V2.0</a>, and is 6U high with a 1x4U footprint. The covers are intended to prevent the migration of tiny parts between the bins, when used in the case.&nbsp;<h3> Safety and Assembly info:</h3>&nbsp;<h4>Please protect your eyeballs and wear some safety glasses when assembling the door hinges.  Clipping the paperclip wires with the side cutters can send the cut ends of the wires flying.  If you make or assemble these, it is at your own risk.</h4><h4> </h4> If you cannot get the wire installed, STOP and investigate the print, since it should not take a great amount of force to install the wires, and you may have an issue with the print which is blocking the holes for the wire hinge. <h3>Do not push too hard on the wire when installing the wire hinges, and always press against a solid surface (not your hand).</h3>&nbsp;To avoid a nasty poke if the hinge wire were to  burst through the door or other side of the bin, if using too much force, do NOT press the hinge wires in place if your hand or other body part is on the other side.  The hinge wires do not go all the way through the doors, they only go in about 15mm. &nbsp;To assemble the doors, use a couple large paperclips (mine had a wire diameter of about 1.05mm), and straighten them so they can be used as hinge pins for the doors.  Great care must be taken with the paperclip wires, since they require some force to insert (I used a pliers to install the larger wires).  To install the doors, the paperclip wire was inserted from both sides until it stopped (the wire will only go about 15mm).  Then the wire was backed out the wire about 1mm, and cut flush using diagonal flush cutters (which come with most 3D printers).  I used pliers to insert the wires, since they are a snug fit with the holes.  Note that the wire will not go all the way though the doors, and should be installed in two parts, from each side as shown in the pic below:  <figure class="image image_resized" style="width:71.9%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/822378/2024-02-19_9jhjhj31oigm.jpg"></figure>If you intend to print these in one color, you can use the file named:4x1x6BINS_LIDS_w_TABS.stlIf you want to print the tabs in a different color, then use the files listed below (load both together into the slicer together so they maintain their orientation). The tabs use an integrated hinge, so they need to print with the door (so load them into the slicer together). This way they are split into two models (tab and door) for multicolor printing (which makes coloring much simpler in the slicer).&nbsp;For Multicolor printing only:Load these into the slicer together:4x1x6BINS_LIDS_2_COLOR.STL4x1x6BINS_TABS_2_COLOR.STLIn Orcaslicer (others should be similar), you can load two or more objects together by dropping them together on the build plate and answering “yes” when it askes if you want to load the files as a single object. Doing this will maintain the orientation of the door and tabs which is required for them to print correctly.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:71.09%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/822378/2024-02-19_cetxcuychxol.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;Note that one door is slightly shorter than the rest. This short door has a small mark on the inside surface, which should help to ID it during assembly. The shorter door installs in the first bin as shown in the pic below:<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:75.62%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/822378/2024-02-19_ex0x4djcx3fw.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;The doors on the bins have room for a 9mm wide Brother P-Touch Label (or smaller).The STEP file is included, which has all the models used in this design.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Other stuff:If you need some bins for small parts, the following bins with covers are a good option to use with the Box For Stuff <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/710154-gridfinity-box-for-stuff-bfs-20-bin-version-20" rel="nofollow noopener">20 bin </a>and <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/719788-gridfinity-25-bin-box-for-stuff-version-20-unteste" rel="nofollow noopener">25 bin </a>cases (or other 6U tall cases):<ol><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/237116#profileId-253187" rel="nofollow noopener">1 compartment 2x1 (6U) bin with a magnet pickup tool</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/416342" rel="nofollow noopener">1x1, 1x2 (3 Compartment) and 1x4 (6Compartment) bins with lids (6U) - version 2.1</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/405008" rel="nofollow noopener">1x2, 1x3, 1x4 (6U and 12U) Lidded Bin for Stuff with Latch Version 2.0</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/405004" rel="nofollow noopener">2x2, 2x3, 2x4 (6U and 12U) Lidded Bin for Stuff with Latch Version 2.0</a></li><li><a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/405013" rel="nofollow noopener">3x3, 3x4 (6U and 12U) Lidded Bin for Stuff with Latch Version 2.0</a></li></ol>If you want to check out my other Gridfinity cases, you can find them at the links below:<ol><li>Gridfinity Box For Stuff <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/159840#profileId-266789" rel="nofollow noopener">20 bin (6U)</a></li><li>Gridfinity Box For Stuff <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/719788-gridfinity-25-bin-box-for-stuff-version-20-unteste" rel="nofollow noopener">25 bin (6U)</a> (max size for a Bambu X1C/P1S)</li><li>Gridfinity Box For Stuff <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/386034#profileId-286398" rel="nofollow noopener">16 bin (6U)</a> (Ender 3 size)</li><li>Gridfinity Box For Stuff <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/386041#profileId-286401" rel="nofollow noopener">16 bin - 12U deep version</a> (Ender 3 size)</li><li>Gridfinity Box For Stuff <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/389651" rel="nofollow noopener">2 bin (6U)</a> (small test version)</li></ol>&nbsp;If you want to store some small hardware and need some good labeled bins, <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@Ch3vr0n_247401" rel="nofollow noopener">Ch3vr0n</a> posted some segmented bins for the Gridfinity system here:<a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/732655-gridfinity-boxes-for-gridfinity-box-for-stuff-20-b" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/model/732655-gridfinity-boxes-for-gridfinity-box-for-stuff-20-b</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;If you find these models useful, please post a like or a comment with some pics of your prints. You can find the other things I&#39;m working on at my blog <a target="_blank" href="https://www.mystoopidstuff.com/blog" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a>.  You can also follow me<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/2561228817" rel="nofollow noopener"> here </a>or on Printables, to see what new stuff I post.  If you would like to support my work, you can Buy Me A Coffee using this link:<a target="_blank" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/mystoopidstuff" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.buymeacoffee.com/mystoopidstuff</a>Thanks for looking!

Gridfinity Bin 1x4 6 compartment bins with lids

Gridfinity

RoyalT

Panels to cover the cable channels running along the top left and right edges of the Bambu Labs P1S 2023 models. The other cable covers I found seem to be made for an older version of the P1S or P1P as they did not fit my machine correctly. These panels are compatible with the latest edition of the P1S (End of 2023).&nbsp;I have uploaded two print profiles. The first includes both left and right cable channel cover panels on one plate. The second has the left and right panels each on one plate. You can always Download the STL to print however you prefer as well.&nbsp;<h3>Recommended print settings (100% scale, 0.4mm nozzle)</h3><figure class="table" style="width:450px;"><table style="border:1px double rgb(192, 192, 192);"><tbody><tr><td style="border:1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;vertical-align:top;">Material</td><td style="border:1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;vertical-align:top;">ABS, ASA, or PETG</td></tr><tr><td style="border:1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;vertical-align:top;">Infill</td><td style="border:1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;vertical-align:top;">10% Support Cubic</td></tr><tr><td style="border:1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;vertical-align:top;">Elephant foot compensation</td><td style="border:1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;vertical-align:top;">0.15 mm</td></tr><tr><td style="border:1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;vertical-align:top;">Supports</td><td style="border:1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;vertical-align:top;">None</td></tr><tr><td style="border:1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;vertical-align:top;">Brim</td><td style="border:1px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;vertical-align:top;">None</td></tr></tbody></table></figure>Make sure you use a filament that can withstand 60c temps. PLA will be a no-go if you print materials like ABS that require high chamber temps. The chamber temps regularly reach 60c+, when the build plate is set to 90-100c with the door closed, at the top of the case where the panels sit. ABS and ASA would be good choices for this print. You could probably get away with PETG or PETG-CF too if you don't do much high-temperature printing.&nbsp;This is my first public release so any critiques or suggestions are more than welcome!&nbsp;I ❤️ My Bambu

Cable Channel Covers for Bambu Labs P1S 2023

Pimp the printer

MechEng67

This design features a compartment to store Keurik K-Cups beside your machine. The cups are completely out of sight and fall into the drawer one by one. Pull out the drawer to get a cup, push it back in and another cup will be available on the next pull. The only non-3D printed parts for this assembly are some optional magnets to keep the unit attached to the Keurig. The front token can easily be redesigned to add a personal touch. It fits about 16 cups, I used the cups from Costco but it should fit any standard Keurig cup.&nbsp;Note: The internal parts of the mechanism will differ slightly then what you see on the photos as I adjusted some angles and combined two parts into one. These are improvements over the original design (pictured) to help have fewer jams. &nbsp;I recommend alternating the orientation of the cups when putting them in. You can fit a few more cups and it jams a lot less. With the new design, I am confident it will jam less than 2% of the time. If it does jam, simply push the drawer back in and pull it back out, it should solve the problem.&nbsp;I&#39;ve included the CAD files if you wish to adjust anything. If you print it, please share a photo, I would love to see it!&nbsp;Let me know if you have any question.&nbsp;***Update 2024-04-27*** Based on feedback from others, I have increased the width of the compartment and drawer by 3mm to help avoid jams. Some pods are prone to “pressurize” and expand making them taller which can cause them to get stuck. The height of your pods should remain at no more than 48mm for this to work well. If they are taller than that, consider increasing the width of the design some more. CAD files are included.

Keurig K-Cup Dispenser (Hidden Cups)

Miscellaneous

KYZ Design

This model was originally uploaded <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/452124-under-desk-drawer-with-double-travel-stops" rel="nofollow noopener">here</a>, check out the previous 50+ makes and comments<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/194310/2023-11-22_741ebdf3aad638.png"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/194310/2023-11-22_2ef855184807e.png"></figure><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/194310/2023-11-22_7e7782bb7c62a8.png"></figure>&nbsp;The remix adds built-in travel stops, added “tails” for stability when open, a double depth drawer version and more.&nbsp;Rails are designed for 6Gx20mm countersunk screws (or 4mm x 20mm)

Under Desk Drawer with Double Travel Stops

Drawers

ToonzFactory

PRINT-IN-PLACE FLEXI CUTE RABBIT ARTICULATED&nbsp;It&#39;s an articulated print-in-place model that needs NO supports, No assembly, and prints great with PLAThis Design are really fun to play with because they flop around and move in any which way.&nbsp;Feel free to Share your Makes and tag me on Social Networks if you print it!&nbsp;You can support me here:&nbsp;Instagram: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.instagram.com/toonzfactory/" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.instagram.com/toonzfactory/</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;ALL Toonz Factory designs are protected by Copyright Law. When you purchase, you do NOT have the right to sell any digital file or printed model of my designs without my explicit written consent. To legally sell them, you may obtain my permission through this link:&nbsp; <a target="_blank" href="https://www.patreon.com/Toonzfactory" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.patreon.com/Toonzfactory</a>Thanks for your support, you guys are the best! ;)<h2>3D PRINTING SETTINGS</h2>Super easy print.No Supports Print-in-place (no assembly) 20% infill to be safe PLA works great

PRINT-IN-PLACE FLEXI CUTE RABBIT ARTICULATED

Annette

ir3456

I set out to design the simplest and versatile organization system that I could use everywhere. And I couldn&#39;t be happier with the final design!&nbsp;The small brackets are designed to be used with <a target="_blank" href="https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hardboard-Tempered-Panel-Common-1-8-in-4-ft-x-8-ft-Actual-0-115-in-x-47-7-in-x-95-7-in-832777/202189720?source=shoppingads&amp;locale=en-US&amp;pla&amp;mtc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D21-021_001_PLYWOOD-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-5718356-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-PMAX-BidTest&amp;cm_mmc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D21-021_001_PLYWOOD-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-5718356-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-PMAX-BidTest-71700000113427539--&amp;gad_source=1&amp;gclid=CjwKCAjwwr6wBhBcEiwAfMEQs3uk_tgCGOkxrofWXvf6k0BlqS9_7zwj5bO11hwCpeuzbLtOF6CbThoC5L4QAvD_BwE&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds" rel="nofollow noopener">hardboard</a> for the dividers. The brackets can be easily printed and and are a perfect fit for the thickness of hardboard. Because the dividers don&#39;t need to be printed, this is likely the fastest possible solution for making custom dividers.&nbsp;Hardboard is cheap (you can usually get it half off at the big box stores if you can find a slightly damaged sheet) and very easy to work with and cut. If you have another material instead of hardboard, you may need to scale the brackets appropriately. They fit perfectly on 1/8&#34; hardboard which is .1125 in or 2.85mm. I will also do my best to design brackets for other materials if requested! Just leave a comment.&nbsp;ModelThere are 6 bracket types: T, corner, end cap, cross, hex, and hex corner. For each bracket type, there is a model with and without teeth. The teeth “bite” into the hardboard which keeps the brackets from sliding and can help the dividers hold their shape.&nbsp;Each bracket is ~1 gram meaning these are a perfect use of the extra bits of filament you have laying around.&nbsp;Edit: I have added two models for dividers if you would rather print them than use hardboard. One model is 1cm by 1cm and the other is 1in by 1 in. These can be scaled in the X and Y direction to get a divider of any size. &nbsp;The thickness has been tested to be a perfect fit whether the print is printed laying down or standing up. When scaling, make sure to uncheck uniform scale. If you needed a divider that was 8 inches by 2.75 inches, you would simply scale the X to 800 and then Y to 275. Make sure not to scale the Z direction. <figure class="image image_resized" style="width:38.01%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/842066/2024-04-10_0a2b7279e8d3b.png"></figure>&nbsp;ProfilesThere is only 1 profile and it has every bracket on it. They are arranged with the brackets without teeth towards the front of the build plate and the brackets with teeth towards the back. You can get rid of any brackets you don&#39;t need and copy the ones you do as many times as you want.&nbsp;Edit: I have added profiles for walls, one in inches and one in cm. They can be scaled to any size and printed either laying down or standing up.&nbsp;Tips for Desinging and BuildingWhen designing, it can be helpful to draw out a rough idea of what you think you want the dividers to look like. Once you have a basic idea, it should be clear how many brackets you will need. You will need 2 brackets per joint, one for the top and one for the bottom.&nbsp;The next step for is to decide how tall you want your dividers to be. If your spaces are thinner, you may want shorter dividers which will make it easier to grab things. My kitchen and bathroom drawers have shorter dividers, while my dresser dividers are the full height of the drawers. You can always cut them down shorter if you need.&nbsp;When cutting the hardboard, It is easiest to cut long strips, and then cut the strips into the individual divider pieces that you need. If you need 4&#34; tall dividers, cut a long 4&#34; strip. Then just cut each divider from the strip. Always start with your longest piece(s) and then you can use those to figure out how long to make the shorter pieces. It helps to have the drawer close by if possible to avoid having to go back and forth between the drawer and the workshop after every cut.&nbsp;Hardboard can be cut easily with practically any kind of saw. Its easiest to mark a line with a ruler and do your best to follow it. This usually leaves a bit of a rough edge though so you will want to finish it. If you have a hand plane, that is by far the easiest way to straighten and finish the edges, but you can also use sandpaper or even run outside and and “sand” It on the sidewalk.&nbsp;Depending on the layout of your dividers, They may not be very rigid and may get pushed apart. This can be fixed by creating a border around the whole drawer and using the T brackets with teeth to anchor all of the loose ends which will make the dividers much more rigid.

Custom Drawer Divider Brackets

clips

OJum

I&#39;ve added the assembly video on my youtube channel, and you can find too my account tiktok on bio.All is printable parts.The issue for ramrod to short is probably a not perfect calibration, in a XYZ cube if you have 19.90 so in my 200mm height barrel you will loose 2mm. So i maded a barrel printable flat to have the same mystake calibration as ramrod for they can match together.<figure class="media"><oembed url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e8olTEOxeQs&amp;t=227s"></oembed></figure>

revolver 44.cal

Firearms

Generic User

Bambu spools are great in the AMS, they fit and go a long way towards having a reliable feed. When it comes to respooling the basic cardboard or printed standard cores have a weak spot with the filament end, it tends to get caught a lot. If it does come loose the next issue is the bendy dag can get caught inside your plumbing and cause a blockage. This upgraded Core does away with the bend in favour of the pass through hole which eliminates filament damage and also gives the AMS a better chance to pull the end away cleanly. I&#39;ve added a plate of three Spool Locking Shims, they are highly recommended with all Bambu Spools whether you use this Core or not. The Shim locks the two halves together and stops the accidental uncoupling which ends in tears and coils of loose filament. *I&#39;ve uploaded v3 after having a few issues with filament releasing on my A1Mini, this new design works a lot better.&nbsp; **Add some Desiccant Wedges to your Spool storage<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/212720#profileId-232362" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/212720#profileId-232362</a><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50.83%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000217843/design/2024-03-19_e6dff828f5c1f.jpeg"></figure>&nbsp;

Upgraded Core for Bambu Spool v3

holders

Leon Fisher-Skipper

<h2>This Feature got implemented for P1 and X1 in <a target="_blank" href="https://github.com/bambulab/BambuStudio/releases/tag/v01.09.00.60" rel="nofollow noopener">BambuStudio Beta 1.9</a>. Please use this, as you can easily adapt the retraction length and turn the feature on and off as you please. A1 and A1 mini still have to use the download here.  </h2><h2>Description:</h2>TLDR: This mod allows you to use a lower flush multiplier without the color bleed that it would have with the default profile. &nbsp;Great <a target="_blank" href="https://youtu.be/suFbfer1WhI?si=7mcjxLNhubW9WR1a" rel="nofollow noopener">video</a> by butter pocket prints explaining this change.&nbsp;<h2>How to use it:</h2><ol><li>Open the 3mf file and save the Nozzle Profiles of your Printer to your User Presets. It will tell you that the G-Code was changed, confirm with OK, as this is exactly how the profile works. The profile name has to be changed to save it.  </li><li>Now you need to adjust your purge settings! I would just set the multiplier to 0.5 on P1 and X1 and 0.65 on A1 and A1 mini. The values may now show red in the purge settings, but they will still work. </li></ol>!Dont use with Silk PLA!  !Confirm that you are running the newest Version of Bambu Slicer. Orca Slicer may work but is not tested!&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Original Post from 14.09.2023 on Printables with the title “bambulab profile for up to 60% purge reduction” which has sadly since been deleted by prusa:&nbsp;&nbsp;<h2>Orginal Description:</h2>The biggest issue with The Bambulab printers is that during multicolor printing ridiculous amounts of purge (dubbed poop by some) are generated, when switching colors.(Example: <a target="_blank" href="https://reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/iMiT0Bis6i" rel="nofollow noopener">https://reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/iMiT0Bis6i</a> or <a target="_blank" href="https://reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/wDpB3A3N6k" rel="nofollow noopener">https://reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/wDpB3A3N6k</a>)This has to be done to clear the Printhead of the old color and replace it with the new color.The Print head has a internal volume bellow the cutter of 110 mm3, meaning that at least 110 mm3 of filament has to be flushed and an additional amount to account for the transition when the old color mixes into the new color.Of these 110 mm3 in the hot end, only half get melted, as the rest stays in the cold part around the heat sink.Here comes a neat trick I found: Before cutting, the unmelted part can get pulled up so that it can be fed back into the AMS. When the new filament is feed into the hotend, it gets pushed in an additional 20mm.This means that for every filament change 50mm3 of filament is saved.As a result much less purge volume is required.When the print ends, the filament also gets pushed out 20 mm, to also save filament here.The filament gets pushed out another 20mm during purging when starting the print too, to account for the push-back when the print ends.   The saving results can be seen in the first picture.I used this model (<a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/536401-bambu-lab-ams-purging-strips-p1p/files" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/model/536401-bambu-lab-ams-purging-strips-p1p/files </a>) by Joey_466945 and printed it once with the „Save filament Profile“ and once with the normal on. The flush Volumes have to be set to 0 for this test! Each line on the strips corresponds to 100 mm3. It’s clearly visible that each transition is shifted by 50mm3.For advantageous color combinations like blue and red these 50mm3 savings correspond to a very high saving percentage. Combinations which have a lot of color bleed like white to black need a lot of purging still, so the percentage saved is much less.I printed two benchies for comparison (the left one is the saving Profil) and the quality stayed the same, despite the flush volumes being reduced by 50mm3. The benchy with my profile generated 60% less purge.Both prints used a prime tower though which stayed the same size.  The Profile only changes 8 lines of code in the G-Code.I tested thousands of filament changes and had no issues. Tests have been done on X1C, P1P, P1S and A1 mini. Edit: Silk PLA and Bambu support material should not be used with this profile. Tests by Bambulab indicate problems.   &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;—————————————————————————————————————————————————UPDATE 01.02.2024: I made a mistake with the A1 and A1 mini profiles. Retraction was now lowered and should improve reliability. Max. savings with A1 and A1 mini is now 33% and the net savings per filament change is 36 mm3. P1 and X1 still have a max saving of 45% and a net saving of 50 mm3. This is due to the changed geometry of the hotend, because the hot zone is a bit longer. This reduction is more on the conservative side, it is probably possible to get away with more savings, but I can’t test it yet as I don’t have a A1 or mini. &nbsp;UPDATE 25.01.2024: Bambulab updated the A1 and A1 mini print profiles, so I also updated them to the current version.I have also heard back from Bambulab and they are testing the feature. They have run into problems with Silk PLA though, so it seems it works not with all filaments perfectly. <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/1929892454" rel="nofollow noopener">@EyemJoe</a> also mentioned problems with Support filament. If you use these two filaments be careful. &nbsp;UPDATE 11.01.2024: I changed the start G-Code as on some printers the Load Line was incomplete on some printers.Thanks to <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@Cosquilla_523214" rel="nofollow noopener">@Cosquilla_523214</a> for pointing me to the issues and suggesting a fix. I also changed the title, as the calculated maximum saving is 45% for this method and not 60% as the title stated before. The 60% was what I observed on my testprint, but this was with a small quality reduction. 45% is without a quality reduction. &nbsp;I have also found out that Bill from 3D chameleon also was using retractions to reduce waste on the Bambu Printers a couple of months before me. I independently came up with this, but his hardware based solution is also very interesting. The big difference is, that my profile doesn’t require any hardware changes. If you are interested in multi color printing, his Chameleon is very interesting and was one of the smartest and best solutions before the Bambu AMS. It also makes Multi-color printing possible on any printer. If you are interested visit his <a target="_blank" href="https://www.3dchameleon.com/" rel="nofollow noopener">Website</a>, where he will also soon launch the MK4 version. &nbsp;UPDATE 18.12.2023: Now Profiles for all Bambu Printers and all Nozzles including A1, A1 mini and X1E.Thanks for @rc2k7_1528233, @Sven and @AustinWolt_1104655 for testing the A1 mini Profile.@AustinWolt_1104655 also made a <a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VLgqqTbFd3k" rel="nofollow noopener">Video</a> explaining how to use the Profiles.&nbsp;UPDATE 12.12.2023: I added profiles for all nozzle sizes and Printers including the P1P, P1S, X1C and one experimental profile for the A1 mini.All the profiles are saved in the same file. Save those you need to your User Presets.I also slightly updated the documentation in the code to make it more clear.&nbsp;UPDATE 20.09.2023: G-Code was modified so that the calculated amounts of waste from Bambu Studio are accurate. Before there was a small discrepancy.I also wrote the G-Code down below with instructions how to use the settings without the download.—————————————————————————————————————————————————  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;To use the changes without the download do the following:To use these changes go into Printer Profil and select one of the Profiles you want to change. If you dont use any custom profiles, just use the standard, in my case “Bambu Lab X1 Carbon 0.4 Nozzle” for the 0.4 Nozzle. <img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/582382/rich_content/e29a19a0-b85b-4006-869e-9fe5754d62ca/thumbs/cover/800x460/jpg/bambulabchangeprofil.webp">Then go into “Machine G-Code” and edit the G-Code in 3 of the text fields like described below. Save the changes afterwards.<img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/582382/rich_content/3ecd6635-2875-4137-a41c-7cb7eac954d2/thumbs/cover/800x459/jpg/bambulabchangeprofil2.webp">&nbsp;Changes to the g-code are marked bold in the PDF documentation.

Reduce purge by up to 45%.

User settings

andythilo

Simple push in honeycomb panels to finish off the rear of the AMS. I didn't like that it was open so designed these. These only fit the maCyo42 remix of the AMS Riser, they DO NOT fit the original benlevi design.

AMS Riser Rear Honeycomb Panels - for maCyo42 remix

AMS Riser

Fyrby Additive

V-Spooler

respooler

3D Printbit

Responding to feedback, I have added a version with NO BRIM. I originally added a brim just in case of curling due to the thin base and walls. It's probably not necessary but peace of mind for little extra time and very small effort in removing it afterwards. There are numerous variations out there for this product. I wanted to print a simple but effective dump box and I thought instead of using magnets to hold it in place just use the existing screw that holds the chute in place. NOTE: I unscrewed the original black screw from the lower mount of the dump chute. Then used one of the slightly longer silver headed screws - I think it was used in the packaging material from delivery. Leave it unscrewed a little for the chute to clip onto. This design appears to be very thin in body thickness but I didn't see the point in printing one with 3mm or 4mm thick walls. It only holds lightweight filament. This is easy to remove for emptying and does not effect rolls mounted on the rear of the printer. &nbsp;I'm sure other designs serve their intended purpose. This is a very straightforward design and I thought it might be useful to someone. It might appear to be a remix of someone else's work and with the amount of these chutes out there it's quite possible. Apologies if this is the case.