David Z.

pumpkin20303

You&#39;re in a desert, walking along in the sand, when all of a sudden you look down and see a 3D Printed replica of Deckard&#39;s Blaster from the 1982 classic, Blade Runner.<ul><li>Features: The blaster has a functioning cocking action/charging handle and an opening cylinder cover door with a sliding lock and the cylinder can rotate.</li><li>Customization: There&#39;s options for a debossed text or blank barrel covers, and smooth or textured grips. I used the blank barrel cover and the smooth grips.</li><li>Print Settings: Printed using the standard 0.16 mm profile, with supports added on a few objects and thats all set up in the Bambu Lab .3mf project file.</li><li>Filaments Used:<ul><li>Orange transparent PLA from InkStation</li><li>Slate Gray PLA MAX from CC3D</li><li>Bambu Lab Silver Silk PLA</li><li>Bambu Lab Matte Black PLA</li></ul></li><li>Assembly: It&#39;s straightforward, but can look overwhelming to start with. Just take your time and follow the instructions, you&#39;ll need some glue like CA/Super Glue but use what you are comfortable with (I use the cheap stuff from Bunnings, $1.75 for 6 x 3ml tubes), and it easier to test fit everything first and then glue it. The printed bolts/pins are mostly for aesthetics, you could use actual M2 and M3 hardware but I&#39;m not sure of the tolerances for the holes. I did use 2 x M3x12mm Cap Head screws to attach the handle bottom to the main body as well as glue.</li><li>Weathering: To give it that authentic look, I used black and brown acrylic paints with silver leaf rub&#39;n&#39;buff. Watch Adam Savage&#39;s tutorials on Tested YouTube channel for some tips and tricks. For mine I basically just layering on watered down paint paints and then wipe most of it of with a paper towel and repeated whilst alternating between colours until it was dirty enough.</li></ul>I have included the original assembly instructions from Andrew Foster and sorted through all the files. I grouped the files on plates by colour and replaced parts some original parts with remixed ones . So there is no hard work needed on your end, just load up the project, chuck in the filament and hit Print Plate. You&#39;re only a few hours away from one of the most iconic pistols in sci-fi cinema history. And it looks awesome too.&nbsp;Thanks to Andrew Foster for providing an awesome model and assembly guide.&nbsp;&nbsp;The display stand can be found here:&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/443169#profileId-349248" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/443169#profileId-349248</a>&nbsp;

Deckard's Blaster from Blade Runner 1982

Movies & TV

Adam L

This is a remix of <a href="https://www.printables.com/model/580287-moopsy-the-cuddly-bone-vampire-from-star-trek" rel="nofollow">https://www.printables.com/model/580287-moopsy-the-cuddly-bone-vampire-from-star-trek</a> , but with a head that's been resized to be smaller in proportion to the body. Some people may prefer this rendition of Moopsy, so I decided to give people the option of both of them.In the picture included here, the larger one is in grey and the new smaller head one is in white with color accents.For instructions and description of the original, see <a href="https://www.printables.com/model/580287-moopsy-the-cuddly-bone-vampire-from-star-trek" rel="nofollow">here</a>.&nbsp;

Moopsy: The Cuddly Bone-Vampire from Star Trek (Small Head Edition)

Star Trek

LucyPrint

Star Wars Han Solo Carbonite HueForge&nbsp;If you use the STL, please note the settings. Otherwise, load profile.&nbsp;<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/179515#profileId-197478" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/179515#profileId-197478</a> → here you can find the stand (easel)<a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/190281#profileId-210041" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/190281#profileId-210041</a> → HueForge Box with stand&nbsp;Setting:Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.08mm with a base layer of 0.16mmFilaments Used: PLA JAYO Black Transmission Distance: 0.3 PLA JAYO Gray Transmission Distance: 2.5 PLA BambuLab Basic Beige Transmission Distance: 8 PLA JAYO White Transmission Distance: 6!!!! It appears you have mixed filament types. Be certain this is what you want. !!!!!Swap Instructions: Start with Black At layer #11 (0.96mm) swap to Gray At layer #13 (1.12mm) swap to Beige At layer #24 (2mm) swap to White for the rest.

Star Wars Han Solo Carbonit - HueForge 

Star Wars

ARTICAT

Summary:Discover relief from migraines with our 3D printed Migraine Relief Hand Clip.This innovative clip provides gentle pressure to specific points on the hand, aiding in headache relief.&nbsp;Features:Customizable Sizes: Available in S, M, and L dimensions for personalized comfort.Portable Solution: Compact and easy to carry for on-the-go relief.Adjustable: Adaptable to various hand sizes for universal usability.&nbsp;Say goodbye to headaches with this tailored Migraine Relief Hand Clip - a simple solution for a more comfortable day! 💡👍✨

Migraine Relief Hand Clip

Household

mike_mattala

Generate your own nuts, bolts, washers and threaded rod by simply typing the required parameters into OpenSCAD. Great for replacing metal equivalents in many applications. Example nuts and bolt plate provided. &nbsp;Includes options to generate nuts, bolts, washers and WingNuts for easy hand tightening and removal. Includes socket cap, socket button and socket countersunk head types with support for socket, phillips and slot drives. You can also join threaded rod to form unlimited lengths by creating a custom extended joiner nut. Go Nuts! :)&nbsp;Recommended Print SettingsRafts: No Supports: No Perimeters: at least 3Infill: 100% recommended for highest structural strength &nbsp;Notes: Defaults are for a 8mm diameter bolts, rod, matching nuts and wing nuts that work well together (at least with my printer settings) without cleanup or modification. Please be patient rendering and compiling longer components as the rendering is very calculation intensive.Some default parameters such as the nut outer diameter are deliberately slightly larger than the bolt diameter to produce a snug fit that can still be hand tightened. Some have suggested a 0.8mm difference works well. This may need to be altered depending on individual printer variances, slicing tools, filament etc. Some cleanup may also be required around socket openings depending on first layer print preferences.I suggest printing a matching bolt and nut and adjusting as necessary. Note: slow print speeds and solid fill are recommended for best results. Printing more than one at a time to improve layer cooling works well.Use a brim of about 2mm for printing threaded rod and it should be stable up to about 150 mm in length. You can extend the length by creating nut joiners. For example, an 18mm nut height will join two rod lengths very strongly.

NUT JOB | Nut, Bolt, Washer and Threaded Rod Factory

Tools

digitallyforgeddesigns

This is my fan-made reproduction of the 2022 Batmobile (1:10 Scale). If you want you can also add LED's to the vehicle. I have added reference photos to show how to assemble everything together.

2022 Batmobile

Batman

Models

martin.taichl

This is my model of the Scirocco Class Heavy Cruiser from the Show the Expanse. The model is a kit and does not require any glue. Unfortunately it is not done in scale with my previous MCRN ships as that would mean the ship would reach some 2 meters and I simply dont want to make such a big ship. The individual files are color coded with particular suffixes: _b - Black _w - White _o - Orange/Bronze _g - Grey/Silver If there is no suffix, it means the color does not matter as the part will not be visible. Video is here: <figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/JPllR3M0WJI?si=sBXf3zGc5HJbmNjb"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/JPllR3M0WJI" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure> The assembly is however quite complex so I highly recommend to look at the Assembly instructions PDF attached in the files where I go step by step with the entire assembly process.

Scirocco Class Heavy Cruiser From the Expanse

The Expanse

Oosh Proto

The Manual Material System is made to fit 4 x Filament spools.Each spool can be manually fed through one of the four corresponding holes, through the internal Filament Duct where it protrudes out one single exit point at the rear of the Manual Material System. From there the filament feeds directly into your printers extruder.The manual Material System is designed to work with the Oosh Proto Filament Spool holders that have smooth bearings integrated into them for each filament spool. This design allows a significantly low friction point between the spool holder and the filament spool so your printer is doing less work and is subjects to less wear and tear on its mechanical parts such as the buffer or extruder/hotend.Below the Manual Material System there are 5 x Bambu Lab build plate draws to keep your build plates protected and all in order with an additional 2 x side drawers for miscellaneous tools and consumables. This Material Management System is designed to fit perfectly on top of the Bambu Lab X1C, P1P and P1S. (Or beside your pinter on your desktop)&nbsp;There are various spool holder sizes availible to download on ou rdesign page that fit into the top of the buildplate holder. It is also designed as part of our modular storage system so our Manual Material System will lock in place on top of the Oosh Proto build plate storage if you're printing without the AMS and plan to us our Material Management System onto of your printer.We used TPU95A for the feet so it will stay in position on the Bambu Lab glass top(We also think this looks aesthetically pleasing next to your Bambu Lab printer or next to you on your desktop)

Bambu Lab MMS Build Plate Storage

Bambu

planpa3d

This project turned out to be one of my favorite designs inspiring me to create multiple versions as well as another plant. I just simply love experimenting with different colors on the main head and head spots, as well as the stem and leaves.I included just the flower pot base in this free version, but have created other bases and a different version of the stem available here..<a href="https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/piranha-plant-v2" rel="nofollow">https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/piranha-plant-v2</a>Free Sunflower design here...<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5426766" rel="nofollow">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5426766</a>Pea shooter design available here..<a href="https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/pea-shooter-launcher-that-works-pla-n-pa" rel="nofollow">https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/pea-shooter-launcher-that-works-pla-n-pa</a>****** Created a remix to add parts for the single extruder printers****** <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5451481" rel="nofollow">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5451481</a>I tried to make most of this design able to print on your average single extruder printer, but unfortunately could not come up with an efficient way to print the head and the spots without a duel extruder, or IDX printer.The “Top Head” and “Top Head Spots” should be printed together, as well as the “Bottom Head” and “Bottom head Spots”.“Back Leaf Light Green” and “Back leaf Dark Green” should be printed together to complete half of the back leaf then mirrored in your slicer program to complete the 2nd half of the leaf. The same process will be necessary to complete the front leaf.Everything else should be self-explanatory, just align the flat spots of each part on the build plate. Most parts can be printed without supports, but a few will need them.Once everything is printed, I start assembling the model by attaching the tongue in the bottom head with some 3D gloop. Then the teeth should fall into place when they are aligned correctly.Letting the tongue and teeth set in the bottom head, I attach the head pins and remaining teeth in the top head.I then take time to attach the leaf halves together, by applying a small amount of gloop to one side and holding the respective mirrored side together.Setting the leaves aside to set up, I finish attaching the top and bottom head pieces together, and carefully apply gloop along the groove for the lips to be attached. You will notice the flat spot on the lips will line up with the bottom, or tongue part of the head.I then attach the two stem parts together. It helps to align the arrow on the bottom of the stem with the arrow on the black base and glue the stem to the base at roughly the same time.After leaving the stem set up in the base for a few minutes, It should be fine to dip the respected leaf ends in gloop and insert them into position on the stem.The stem and the head will need attached together next. Be sure to correctly align the top of the head upwards. I apply gloop to not only the stem heptagon, but to the cut out on the stem as well.Last I apply gloop to the diagonal part of the pot top and to the diagonal of the black bases bottom and attach the two together.You can follow me on instagram, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/pla.n.pa/" rel="nofollow">https://www.instagram.com/pla.n.pa/</a>to find out what I designs I am currently working onIf your interested in selling prints of my designs, become a Patreon supporter here… <a href="https://patreon.com/planpa3d" rel="nofollow">https://patreon.com/planpa3d</a>Thanks for checking out my design.Happy printing!!Category: Art