Geek Inside

Mythmarco

<h3>Description</h3>Here is a general overview:Model Details:<ul><li>Base Model: Dummy 13 (Original Creator) <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/183780?from=search#profileId-202639" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/183780?from=search#profileId-202639</a></li><li>Head: Custom Design (egz) <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/199583-lucky-stormtrooper/files" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/model/199583-lucky-stormtrooper/files</a></li><li>Base: Custom Design (@Langa_) <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/213718?from=search#profileId-233281" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/en/models/213718?from=search#profileId-233281</a></li></ul>Edits:Added short neck that fits better with big heads in the Dummy13 models.Separated the calves to better print using supports.Colored Mask and Chest plate and organized for better printing.&nbsp;Disclaimer: Some of these parts were originally designed for Lucky13, I&#39;m putting this series to better fit Dummy 13 instead.&nbsp;The profile has 5 plates,<ol><li>Print each plate with or without supports/brim according to the plate title.</li><li>Plate with the calves and mask ensure you use brim and tree supports and carefully remove these from the calves, the calves are a challenge but can be done carefully.</li><li>Follow Original Dummy 13 video for guidance on assembly.</li></ol>Additional Notes:<ul><li>Post-Processing: After printing, I carefully removed the supports.</li></ul>I&#39;m printing in PLA however it is recommended to print in PETG 15 mm layer height infill 15%.&nbsp;Enjoy,I wanted to share some pictures of how it looks and compared to other figures I had for comparison. I also wanted to share that it printed and the settings I used to put it together and how it worked out, I did not edit anything on the models on this profile, my work was limited to sharing my profile and a brief guide to people who want to print it. Please consider this profile with this lense. I also want to thank the original creators and give them appropriate credit which is why I point you to those original models in this briefing.

Stormtrooper 13 Model - 3D Innovators Studio

dummy 13

moonrakerone

Generate coasters as desired to fit whatever specific need you have.Set lip height and coaster height independently.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Variables to tweak:<blockquote>//Set Inner Diameter (cup space) of Coaster D = 50; //Set overall height of coaster H = 2.20; //Set height of coaster lip LH = 1.2; //Set lip width LW = 2;</blockquote>

Custom Coaster Generator 

for the taff

Jeffrey

this is a holder for a5 flyers, works great!looks nice

A5 flyer holder 

flyer A5

niltsh

This is the updated version of <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/zh/models/39368#profileId-38480" rel="nofollow noopener">https://makerworld.com/zh/models/39368#profileId-38480</a>&nbsp;I am really glad that there are many guys like this collapsible katana, and I do appreciate your suggestions and opinions.&nbsp;So I found some time and made a new one, addressing the following issues in the old one.<ol><li>The strength of the handle-guard connector. This time I combined the handle and connector together to enforce the strength.</li><li>The decoration on the handle is better to be multi colorred. So I made a new structure with the outer shell and inner shell to form the handle. With different colors of the shell, the handle now looks more real.</li><li>The blade guide is thicken so should not be easy to break now.</li><li>the disassemble structure are located at the tail now. And now only two pieces of filament could lock it.</li></ol>&nbsp;Some important suggestion and notes<ol><li>When printing the slide lock, I suggest to use the Cool/Smooth Plate. As when using Textured Plate, the thickness of slider sole is a little bit thicker than it should be, it might cause hard to slide.</li><li>Still need to use a little bit instant glue for the handle and guard, do not apply too much as it might glue the slider too. Don&#39;s ask why I know it :)</li><li>The holes to lock the tail and handle are printed without any support, so it might not be perfect. This might cause the filament hard to insert. I suggest to use a Hex Key 1.5 to clear the holes first.</li><li>The folding diameter of the rubber ring is 60 mm.</li><li>This time, the handle is printed with Support, and I have tuned it many times to perfect the rhombic holes. BUT it is still not perfect.</li></ol>If some one has better ideas, please let me know, or update your configuration here.

Collapsible Katana - Revoluted V2 / 活拆式伸缩刀 V2

katana

Noot Noot

Update: V2Thanks to some constructive feedback, I have adjusted the model to allow for an offset to the back plate to allow the framed item to be held in place when there is no border to it. so if you have a photo that is 60mm by 90mm you can choose to cover a few mm on each side to hold it in place. &nbsp;Update 2: V3 I have added a stand feature to the back plate. The cylinders that come off the back plate should act as a stand. I have not been able to run a test print yet however to see how well it works. Will update this once I can get a test done or someone can verify. &nbsp;Update 3: V4I removed the old stand and created a new standalone stand that you can choose to include. I have also allowed for holes to be added to the frame for the frame to sit on screws. As expected all these can be adjusted. Please note, This is still a learning curve for me and as such, the stand angle will need to be a negative number to work. &nbsp;<blockquote>This is my first parametric model and I learned a lot making it. I have ideas for improvement and will continue to work on it and adapt it over time. I am incredibly proud of this one so please keep feedback to constructive only.</blockquote>&nbsp;The frame is very customizable. It came out of need after I wanted to frame some cards that are an odd size. I haven&#39;t been able to buy the frames so figured id make my own.&nbsp;You can adjust the photo size and width along with the number of rows and columns. You can also adjust the frames depth and width to meet your needs. The back plate can be adjusted and the finger holes diameter can be adjusted and spaced as needed.&nbsp;The back plate initially had pegs to hold it in place but I found the pegs to break off to easily and the back plate sits so snug that they weren&#39;t even required.&nbsp;My ideas for the future include:<ul><li>Options for mounting to IKEA peg board and others like multi-board</li><li>Different designs like a beveled edge</li><li>Ability to add text</li></ul>

Parametric Photo Frame

parametric

DMurr5050

Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.08mm with a base layer of 0.16mmIf changing size . . . only change X and Y, not Z.&nbsp;The Model is 200x177.78mm in size You may print at higher layer heights below the Min Depth of 0.48mm The Max Depth is 2.6mm and the Actual Depth is 2.4mm&nbsp;Filaments Used: PLA BambuLab Basic Black Transmission Distance: 0.6 PLA BambuLab Basic Blue Gray Transmission Distance: 3 PLA BambuLab Basic Gray Transmission Distance: 2 PLA Elegoo PLA pro White Transmission Distance: 5 This print uses 4 unique filaments&nbsp;Swap Instructions: Start with Black At layer #10 (0.88mm) swap to Blue Gray At layer #14 (1.2mm) swap to Gray At layer #22 (1.84mm) swap to White for the rest.

Deadpool and Wolverine fighting Hueforge

deadpool

Barbatros

A simple stand to hold your HueForge paintings vertically.

HueForge Stand

hueforge stand

潦草小狗爱吃雪糕

This is a mold for making spinning top from PLA filament purge. The tops made with this mold are very colorful and spin well. I printed the mold with PETG at 100% infill and did not need to use supports (PC might work even better).&nbsp;What you will need:<ul><li>An unused oven</li><li>A silicone mat (it&#39;s easier to flip and roll the melted PLA into a ball on a silicone mat than on a metal baking tray)</li><li>PLA filament purge</li><li>A 3M respirator or N95 mask (the fumes from melting PLA in the oven are stronger, so please protect yourself)</li><li>Work gloves</li><li>Tongs</li><li>Pliers</li><li>A digital scale</li></ul>Process：1. Accurately weigh 6g of PLA filament purge and place it in the oven.Preheat the oven to 200-230°C and heat the filament purge for approximately 5 minutes.2. Use tongs and pliers to shape the melted PLA into a ball. Evenly folded patterns will look better.3. Place the shaped plastic into the mold and press the mold firmly.4. After approximately 3 minutes, open the mold and remove the top. If the top is difficult to remove, use pliers to take it out.「Twisting and shaking the mold after it has cooled completely can aid in part release. I recently tried using a mold release agent (spray), and it has been very effective in ensuring smooth part separation.20240512」（translate from Google Gemini）&nbsp;&nbsp;这是一个使用PLA耗材废料制作陀螺的模具，制作出的陀螺颜色比较漂亮，旋转的很好。我用PETG 100%填充来打印模具，无需添加支撑（PC可能效果会更好）。&nbsp;你需要：一个闲置的烤箱，一个硅胶垫（需要把熔化的PLA翻折并团成一团，这在金属烤盘中很难操作），PLA耗材废料，3M防毒面具或N95口罩（在烤箱中熔化PLA产生的气味更大，请做好防护），工作手套，取盘夹，钳子，电子秤。&nbsp;压模步骤：&nbsp;1，将 6g（请准确称重）PLA耗材废料放入烤箱中，200～230℃加热约5分钟（烤箱需预热）<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000437241/design/2024-04-21_df4dbe446d418.jpg"></figure><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000437241/design/2024-04-21_74bd4a7599ef7.jpg">&nbsp;&nbsp;2，用取盘夹和钳子把熔化的PLA团成一团（翻折均匀的纹理会更漂亮）<figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000437241/design/2024-04-21_31b36cc45d107.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;3，把团好的塑料放入模具中，用力挤压模具。&nbsp;<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000437241/design/2024-04-21_75a96c8b0fc52.jpg"><figure class="image"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000437241/design/2024-04-21_06f1d6fa28797.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;4，大约3分钟以后打开模具取出陀螺。如果脱模困难可以用钳子把陀螺取出。<img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000437241/design/2024-04-21_07f0433aa2577.jpg">&nbsp;&nbsp;「充分冷却后扭转并晃动模具将有助于脱模。我最近尝试使用脱模剂（喷雾），它很有效，可以确保顺利脱模。20240512」&nbsp;

Spinning top mold   陀螺模具

Purge mold

Kopp3D

A set of vases with interchangeable toppers to show off the color combinations of your filament purge (aka poop). No glue, no supports, just print and fill! There are 5 vase sizes and 5 different topper styles and a funnel for easy fill. Each fills about this amount:&nbsp;XS: 25gSmall: 40gMedium: 60gBottle: 65gLarge: 70g&nbsp;You can check the amount of waste of your print in Bambu Studio and plan accordingly!&nbsp;I would recommend cleaning up the stray hairs so they don&#39;t stick out of the vase, but you can also just fill the vase and then use something to clip off anything sticking out.&nbsp;Edit: All the vases have been updated to be stronger!&nbsp;Commercial use allowed for this design! Don&#39;t toss your poop - reuse it!

Filament Purge / Poop Decorative Flower Vase Set

vase custom

HaHa

这款3D打印鼠标采用了解构主义风格，将鼠标分解为几个零件，以此实现了鼠标掌托的移动，可以适配更多手型，帮助你找到更适合自己的握持手感，还可以通过掌托的左右滑动适配左手握持者使用鼠标。This 3D printing mouse adopts a deconstructive style, breaking down the mouse into several parts to achieve the movement of the mouse palm rest, which can adapt to more hand shapes and help you find a more suitable grip feel. It can also be used by left-handed holders by sliding the palm rest left and right.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 50%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000481154/design/2024-06-01_a4ef1b99fc00c.jpg"></figure>左右滑动掌托，找到合适位置后拧上限位螺丝。Slide the palm rest left and right, find the appropriate position, and then tighten the upper limit screw.<img class="image_resized" style="width: 30.1%" src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000481154/design/2024-06-01_7846f5221adc.jpg"><figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 30%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000481154/design/2024-06-01_505a08c46911b.jpg"></figure><figure class="image image_resized image-style-side" style="width: 30.04%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000481154/design/2024-06-01_e90a02b3cb939.jpg"></figure>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;滑轨设计（Sliding rail design:）：通过顶部螺丝限位固定（Fixed by top screw limit）<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 50.19%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000481154/design/2024-06-01_87a864772634b.jpg"></figure>此外，我还设计了小工具，方便限位螺丝固定。注：1、限位螺丝有阻尼感时即可，不要过度拧紧，防止限位螺丝断裂。2、为设计掌托移动结构并考虑握持舒适性，考虑DPI调节不是高频率操作，该3D鼠标组装完成后不能随意调节DPI,请在掌托安装前用镊子等物品调试DPI，或者拆除掌托后进行调整。In addition, I also designed small tools to facilitate the fixing of limit screws.Note: 1、When the limit screw has a sense of damping, it is sufficient. Do not over tighten to prevent the limit screw from breaking.2、To design the mobile structure of the palm rest and consider grip comfort, and considering that DPI adjustment is not a high-frequency operation, the 3D mouse cannot be adjusted freely after assembly. Please use tweezers or other items to adjust the DPI before installing the palm rest, or adjust it after removing the palm rest.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width: 27.73%"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/model/DSM00000000481154/design/2024-06-01_644a10e5eb8fc.jpg"></figure>具体安装步骤请查看下方装配指南。Please refer to the assembly guide below for specific installation steps.

解构主义鼠标 Deconstruction Mouse

mouse contest

Leon Fisher-Skipper

<h2>This Feature got implemented for P1 and X1 in <a target="_blank" href="https://github.com/bambulab/BambuStudio/releases/tag/v01.09.00.60" rel="nofollow noopener">BambuStudio Beta 1.9</a>. Please use this, as you can easily adapt the retraction length and turn the feature on and off as you please. A1 and A1 mini still have to use the download here.  </h2><h2>Description:</h2>TLDR: This mod allows you to use a lower flush multiplier without the color bleed that it would have with the default profile. &nbsp;Great <a target="_blank" href="https://youtu.be/suFbfer1WhI?si=7mcjxLNhubW9WR1a" rel="nofollow noopener">video</a> by butter pocket prints explaining this change.&nbsp;<h2>How to use it:</h2><ol><li>Open the 3mf file and save the Nozzle Profiles of your Printer to your User Presets. It will tell you that the G-Code was changed, confirm with OK, as this is exactly how the profile works. The profile name has to be changed to save it.  </li><li>Now you need to adjust your purge settings! I would just set the multiplier to 0.5 on P1 and X1 and 0.65 on A1 and A1 mini. The values may now show red in the purge settings, but they will still work. </li></ol>!Dont use with Silk PLA!  !Confirm that you are running the newest Version of Bambu Slicer. Orca Slicer may work but is not tested!&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Original Post from 14.09.2023 on Printables with the title “bambulab profile for up to 60% purge reduction” which has sadly since been deleted by prusa:&nbsp;&nbsp;<h2>Orginal Description:</h2>The biggest issue with The Bambulab printers is that during multicolor printing ridiculous amounts of purge (dubbed poop by some) are generated, when switching colors.(Example: <a target="_blank" href="https://reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/iMiT0Bis6i" rel="nofollow noopener">https://reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/iMiT0Bis6i</a> or <a target="_blank" href="https://reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/wDpB3A3N6k" rel="nofollow noopener">https://reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/wDpB3A3N6k</a>)This has to be done to clear the Printhead of the old color and replace it with the new color.The Print head has a internal volume bellow the cutter of 110 mm3, meaning that at least 110 mm3 of filament has to be flushed and an additional amount to account for the transition when the old color mixes into the new color.Of these 110 mm3 in the hot end, only half get melted, as the rest stays in the cold part around the heat sink.Here comes a neat trick I found: Before cutting, the unmelted part can get pulled up so that it can be fed back into the AMS. When the new filament is feed into the hotend, it gets pushed in an additional 20mm.This means that for every filament change 50mm3 of filament is saved.As a result much less purge volume is required.When the print ends, the filament also gets pushed out 20 mm, to also save filament here.The filament gets pushed out another 20mm during purging when starting the print too, to account for the push-back when the print ends.   The saving results can be seen in the first picture.I used this model (<a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/model/536401-bambu-lab-ams-purging-strips-p1p/files" rel="nofollow noopener">https://www.printables.com/model/536401-bambu-lab-ams-purging-strips-p1p/files </a>) by Joey_466945 and printed it once with the „Save filament Profile“ and once with the normal on. The flush Volumes have to be set to 0 for this test! Each line on the strips corresponds to 100 mm3. It’s clearly visible that each transition is shifted by 50mm3.For advantageous color combinations like blue and red these 50mm3 savings correspond to a very high saving percentage. Combinations which have a lot of color bleed like white to black need a lot of purging still, so the percentage saved is much less.I printed two benchies for comparison (the left one is the saving Profil) and the quality stayed the same, despite the flush volumes being reduced by 50mm3. The benchy with my profile generated 60% less purge.Both prints used a prime tower though which stayed the same size.  The Profile only changes 8 lines of code in the G-Code.I tested thousands of filament changes and had no issues. Tests have been done on X1C, P1P, P1S and A1 mini. Edit: Silk PLA and Bambu support material should not be used with this profile. Tests by Bambulab indicate problems.   &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;—————————————————————————————————————————————————UPDATE 01.02.2024: I made a mistake with the A1 and A1 mini profiles. Retraction was now lowered and should improve reliability. Max. savings with A1 and A1 mini is now 33% and the net savings per filament change is 36 mm3. P1 and X1 still have a max saving of 45% and a net saving of 50 mm3. This is due to the changed geometry of the hotend, because the hot zone is a bit longer. This reduction is more on the conservative side, it is probably possible to get away with more savings, but I can’t test it yet as I don’t have a A1 or mini. &nbsp;UPDATE 25.01.2024: Bambulab updated the A1 and A1 mini print profiles, so I also updated them to the current version.I have also heard back from Bambulab and they are testing the feature. They have run into problems with Silk PLA though, so it seems it works not with all filaments perfectly. <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/1929892454" rel="nofollow noopener">@EyemJoe</a> also mentioned problems with Support filament. If you use these two filaments be careful. &nbsp;UPDATE 11.01.2024: I changed the start G-Code as on some printers the Load Line was incomplete on some printers.Thanks to <a target="_blank" href="https://www.printables.com/@Cosquilla_523214" rel="nofollow noopener">@Cosquilla_523214</a> for pointing me to the issues and suggesting a fix. I also changed the title, as the calculated maximum saving is 45% for this method and not 60% as the title stated before. The 60% was what I observed on my testprint, but this was with a small quality reduction. 45% is without a quality reduction. &nbsp;I have also found out that Bill from 3D chameleon also was using retractions to reduce waste on the Bambu Printers a couple of months before me. I independently came up with this, but his hardware based solution is also very interesting. The big difference is, that my profile doesn’t require any hardware changes. If you are interested in multi color printing, his Chameleon is very interesting and was one of the smartest and best solutions before the Bambu AMS. It also makes Multi-color printing possible on any printer. If you are interested visit his <a target="_blank" href="https://www.3dchameleon.com/" rel="nofollow noopener">Website</a>, where he will also soon launch the MK4 version. &nbsp;UPDATE 18.12.2023: Now Profiles for all Bambu Printers and all Nozzles including A1, A1 mini and X1E.Thanks for @rc2k7_1528233, @Sven and @AustinWolt_1104655 for testing the A1 mini Profile.@AustinWolt_1104655 also made a <a target="_blank" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VLgqqTbFd3k" rel="nofollow noopener">Video</a> explaining how to use the Profiles.&nbsp;UPDATE 12.12.2023: I added profiles for all nozzle sizes and Printers including the P1P, P1S, X1C and one experimental profile for the A1 mini.All the profiles are saved in the same file. Save those you need to your User Presets.I also slightly updated the documentation in the code to make it more clear.&nbsp;UPDATE 20.09.2023: G-Code was modified so that the calculated amounts of waste from Bambu Studio are accurate. Before there was a small discrepancy.I also wrote the G-Code down below with instructions how to use the settings without the download.—————————————————————————————————————————————————  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;To use the changes without the download do the following:To use these changes go into Printer Profil and select one of the Profiles you want to change. If you dont use any custom profiles, just use the standard, in my case “Bambu Lab X1 Carbon 0.4 Nozzle” for the 0.4 Nozzle. <img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/582382/rich_content/e29a19a0-b85b-4006-869e-9fe5754d62ca/thumbs/cover/800x460/jpg/bambulabchangeprofil.webp">Then go into “Machine G-Code” and edit the G-Code in 3 of the text fields like described below. Save the changes afterwards.<img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/582382/rich_content/3ecd6635-2875-4137-a41c-7cb7eac954d2/thumbs/cover/800x459/jpg/bambulabchangeprofil2.webp">&nbsp;Changes to the g-code are marked bold in the PDF documentation.

Reduce purge by up to 45%.

G code reduce purge

Fyrby Additive

V-Spooler

v spool

HEDO 3D

3D printed double helix lamp(the base was designed to color change by layer change - no multimaterial option needed) printing hints: all 3d parts can print without support, only add brim to some parts (diffusers and helix, but I printed diffusers without brim), I printed this diffusers with glow in the dark PLA in vase mode very slowly (16 minutes per part or slower and print environment temperature around 25 degree celsius), print height for helix needed is 200 mm (print time 5 hours per part),electronic parts : arduino nano or ESP8266 or similar (you can use WLED software) WS2812B strip 2x 14 LED's (60 leds per meter) 10 mm width! micro switch (6x6x10) power outlet and power supply (or use usb power)In my video I have used some examples from the fastled library to show you some possible effects and how beautiful a rainbow can look. ;) I am very curious about the programs and functions that you implement. Would be great if one or the other would share their example code. If you want, use an ESP8266 and the freely available WLED software. You can also control the Helix via WiFi.<figure class="media"><div data-oembed-url="https://youtu.be/mGUQgleJSjM"><div style="position: relative; padding-bottom: 100%; height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.2493%;"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/mGUQgleJSjM" style="position: absolute; width: 100%; height: 100%; top: 0; left: 0;" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div></div></figure><h3>Print Settings</h3>Printer Brand:Prusa&nbsp;Printer:I3 MK3SRafts:&nbsp;No&nbsp;Supports:NoResolution:&nbsp;0.2 - 0.3<h3>How I Designed This</h3>&nbsp;&nbsp;Category: Electronics

RGB DOUBLE HELIX LAMP - easyprint

bambu kit contest

DjangoCashflow

Elevate your <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/232273#profileId-249216" rel="nofollow noopener">X-Wing Starfighter</a> display with this stand, crafted to perfectly complement your model. Its robust and sleek structure ensures your starfighter is displayed at the optimal angle, showcasing the intricate details of your creation.  <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/models/232273#profileId-249216" rel="nofollow noopener">Perfect Display Stand for X-Wing Starfighter Model</a>  Feature your X-Wing Starfighter on this elegantly engineered stand, created specifically for the iconic model. Its sturdy design holds your starfighter aloft, as if soaring in the midst of space battle. Simple in assembly, yet impressive in display, this stand is a must-have for any serious collector.<ul><li>Custom Fit: Designed to match the exact dimensions of the X-Wing Starfighter model.</li><li>Enhanced Viewing Angle: Presents your model in a dynamic pose, reminiscent of its in-universe agility.</li><li>Stable Support: Crafted with a focus on balance and stability to ensure your model remains securely displayed.</li><li>Easy Assembly: The stand fits together intuitively and supports your starfighter with a simple, snap-together connection.</li></ul>Download the stand files now and give your X-Wing Starfighter the prominence it deserves in your collection.

X-WING Starfighter Kit Card Stand

kit card

3DMN

Heart Suspended Art

string art

JAV-3D

Der 3D-gedruckte Adapter ermöglicht die Verwendung von Geeetech und anderen Filamentspulen mit dem Bambu Lab AMS Lite. Der Adapter besteht aus zwei Teilen, die auf der Vorder- und Rückseite des AMS Lite platziert und zusammengedrückt werden.&nbsp;Teil 1: Design und AnwendungDas Design des Adapters bietet einen Pressfit-Mechanismus. Anfangs etwas straff, wird er bei regelmäßiger Nutzung geschmeidiger. Der Adapter gewährleistet einen festen Grip auf dem Spulenhalter der AMS Lite und verhindert Leerlauf, was besonders für reibungslose Anwendungen entscheidend ist.&nbsp;Teil 2: Material und DruckeinstellungenVerwenden Sie für den Adapter robustes Filament wie PLA oder ABS. Die Druckeinstellungen sollten darauf abzielen, eine zuverlässige Passform und Haltbarkeit zu gewährleisten.&nbsp;Teil 3: Anbringung und EinsatzDer Adapter wird auf der Vorder- und Rückseite des AMS Lite platziert und zusammengedrückt. Durch den Pressfit-Mechanismus bietet er einen festen Grip und verhindert Leerlauf auf dem Spulenhalter. Andere Spulen von verschiedenen Herstellern sollten problemlos funktionieren.&nbsp;Teil 4: Bewertung und AnpassungenBenutzer werden ermutigt, in Bewertungen die verwendeten Spulenhersteller zu teilen. Skalieren Sie bei Bedarf die Größe minimal, um den Adapter an andere Hersteller anzupassen.&nbsp;Zusammenfassung: Der 3D-gedruckte Adapter bietet eine effektive Lösung für die Verwendung von Geeetech und anderen Filamentspulen mit dem Bambu Lab AMS Lite. Mit seinem Pressfit-Design gewährleistet er einen festen Halt, verhindert Leerlauf und ermöglicht eine breite Kompatibilität mit verschiedenen Spulen. Nutzerfeedback zu verwendeten Spulenherstellern ist willkommen.&nbsp;&nbsp;English:&nbsp;3D Print Guide: Adapter for Filament SpoolsIntroduction: The 3D-printed adapter allows the use of Geeetech and other filament spools with the Bambu Lab AMS Lite. The adapter consists of two parts, placed on the front and back of the AMS Lite and pressed together.&nbsp;Part 1: Design and ApplicationThe adapter&#39;s design offers a press-fit mechanism. Initially tight, it becomes smoother with regular use. The adapter ensures a firm grip on the AMS Lite&#39;s spool holder, preventing backlash, which is crucial for smooth applications.&nbsp;Part 2: Material and Print SettingsUse robust filament like PLA or ABS for the adapter. Print settings should aim for a reliable fit and durability.&nbsp;Part 3: Attachment and UseThe adapter is placed on the front and back of the AMS Lite and pressed together. With the press-fit mechanism, it provides a firm grip, preventing backlash on the spool holder. Other spools from different manufacturers should work seamlessly.&nbsp;Part 4: Reviews and AdjustmentsUsers are encouraged to share spool manufacturers used in reviews. If necessary, scale the size minimally to adapt the adapter to other manufacturers.Summary: The 3D-printed adapter offers an effective solution for using Geeetech and other filament spools with the Bambu Lab AMS Lite. With its press-fit design, it ensures a firm grip, prevents backlash, and allows broad compatibility with various spools. User feedback on spool manufacturers used is welcome.

3 Versions - Filament Spool Adapter AMS lite

A1 spare

3DPrintable.art

<figure class="table"><table style="border:0px solid rgb(179, 179, 179);"><tbody><tr><td style="border:0px solid rgb(255, 255, 255);padding:0.4em;"><h2>Please read these instructions before printing!</h2></td></tr></tbody></table></figure>These adorable voodoo toys come in two variants: one with a sad expression and the other with a cheerful smile. They make perfect gifts or decorative items and have movable arms and heads.&nbsp;While the provided multi-color print demonstrates one coloring option, it took 4 days to complete with a 0.16 layer height. You have endless possibilities for coloring and <a target="_blank" href="https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/multi-color-printing" rel="nofollow noopener">experimenting with different colors</a>. Get creative and share your results!&nbsp;Don't be scared but printing this model will require some form of support. It's easier to print it lying down, but you might be able to print more toys simultaneously while standing.<figure class="table" style="width:919.672px;"><table class="ck-table-resized" style="border:0px solid rgb(255, 255, 255);"><colgroup><col><col></colgroup><tbody><tr><td style="border:0px solid rgb(255, 255, 255);padding:0.4em;"><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:58.05%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/396613/2024-01-07_5d0b1f6f64bcb.png"></figure><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:58.27%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/396613/2024-01-06_c2821558f89f1.png"></figure></td><td style="border:0px solid rgb(255, 255, 255);padding:0.4em;">Examples of finished prints with supports. As you can see, the model is surrounded by these weird structures, which are called supports.&nbsp;Support structures are used to support overhanging geometries and need to be removed once printing is over.&nbsp;There are <a target="_blank" href="https://www.google.com/search?q=How+to+remove+support+structure+from+3D+prints" rel="nofollow noopener">multiple guides online</a> that will teach you how to use and remove supports, but it might be helpful to use some of these tools:<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:316.688px;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/396613/2024-01-06_3aba5e239a66c.png"></figure>&nbsp;Please avoid applying excessive force by hand, as it might break the printed object. Be patient to achieve the highest possible quality.&nbsp;Bambu Lab also has a great <a target="_blank" href="https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/support" rel="nofollow noopener">wiki article</a> that explains how you can use different support settings. If you find a better support configuration, please share your print profile.</td></tr></tbody></table></figure>For a perfectly smooth surface, you can use a different <a target="_blank" href="https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/layer-height#effect-of-layer-height" rel="nofollow noopener">layer height</a> (0.16 for example) or experiment with<a target="_blank" href="https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/adaptive-layer-height" rel="nofollow noopener"> variable layer heights</a>. In any case, expect the printing time to increase significantly, especially for multi-color prints.<figure class="table"><table style="border:0px solid rgb(179, 179, 179);"><tbody><tr><td style="border:0px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;">To <a target="_blank" href="https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/reduce-wasting-during-filament-change" rel="nofollow noopener">minimize filament waste</a>, we strongly recommend printing multiple objects simultaneously.&nbsp;The provided print profiles are merely suggestions, and when selecting different colors, please ensure that you update the <a target="_blank" href="https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/reduce-wasting-during-filament-change#auto-calc-flushing-volumes" rel="nofollow noopener">flushing volumes</a> to prevent any unexpected color mixing.</td><td style="border:0px solid rgb(191, 191, 191);padding:0.4em;"><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:78.91%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/396613/2024-01-06_500fdaa4282.png"></figure></td></tr></tbody></table></figure><figure class="table"><table style="border:0px solid rgb(255, 255, 255);"><tbody><tr><td style="border:0px solid rgb(255, 255, 255);padding:0.4em;"><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:72.32%;"><img src="https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/396613/2024-01-06_4c5094fc8f382.png"></figure></td><td style="border:0px solid rgb(255, 255, 255);padding:0.4em;">If you want to create your own print profile, please note that the neck is typically the weakest spot. It is recommended to reinforce it with a higher infill or additional wall loops.&nbsp;This should prevent it from breaking easily when removing supports or playing with the toy.</td></tr></tbody></table></figure>&nbsp;COMMERCIAL LICENSE AVAILABLE: <a target="_blank" href="https://patreon.com/3DPA" rel="nofollow noopener">https://patreon.com/3DPA</a>&nbsp;Check out <a target="_blank" href="https://makerworld.com/en/u/943536974" rel="nofollow noopener">our other models</a>. Your likes and downloads support more content.&nbsp;Happy printing!&nbsp;

Cute Articulated Voodoo Toy (print-in-place)

Divers

fay3dlab

This a new frame for my X-wing since not everyone was confident to print the tensegrity version.. So i made a new Suspended X-wing with a new frame..I've been doing a lot of suspended star wars ships and i thought i do something different with the frame holding the suspended ships..So this new Xwing version has a half frame holding onto the strings.. a follower of mine said to add windows to my frame so we can peek at the ships from the side.. so i decided to fully remove the side of the frame and expose the ships from the side..&nbsp;<figure class="image"></figure> The print is fairly simple with the Xwing and the half frame.. and another for the 4 thrusters on the back.. In the new frame version.. i have made the LED strips channel into the frame so there is no 2 parts frame to combine.. There is a hole for you to insert the LED strips into the frame.. you'll have 370mm room for the LED strips from bottom to the top of the channel.. so just cut the LED strips to size and insert it..&nbsp;If you're interested in getting the LED strips.. here's my affiliate link to buy it.. 5V USB RGB LED Strip Light <a target="_blank" href="https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_oEk0hDa" rel="nofollow noopener">https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_oEk0hDa</a> TIP: when inserting the LED strips into the channel.. use a clear tape and tape the whole strips.. it is so that the LEDs on the strips dont get caught on the edge of each of the frame.. &nbsp;When printing suspended models.. one important thing to remember is to set the wall generator to arachne from classic.. this will make the slicer print the strings.. and NO SUPPORTS..&nbsp;I hope you guys have fun printing this new version of the suspended X-Wing..

Suspended X-Wing with LED strips

suspended

PartialRobot

Introducing the Galactic Empire Emblem, featuring Aurebesh script. Designed with a subtle .001 mm height variation between the text/logo and main body, this model prints seamlessly, ensuring a flush and neat finish. Perfect for Bambu Lab printers, it's a breeze to paint. Celebrate the might of the Empire. 'The Galactic Empire - Long Live The Empire' emblem!"

StarWars Coasters - The Galactic Empire - Long Live The Empire' emblem!

true flat

sduppleganger

Everybody&#39;s favorite bad guy. If you like this style, let me know - I&#39;m working on other anatomy posters.&nbsp;Print at 100% infill with a layer height of 0.08mm with a base layer of 0.16mm&nbsp;Filaments Used: PLA Black PLA White &nbsp;Swap Instructions: Start with Black At layer #8 (0.72mm) swap to White for the rest.